Hidden El Cabrero: Murals and Artist Workshops
If you arrived in Cartagena expecting only the walled Historic Center and the beaches of Bocagrande, you are missing half the city. To the north, right on the Caribbean Sea, lies El Cabrero, a neighborhood few tourists know but that we locals have been enjoying for years. Here, there are no lines to enter a castle or street vendors every two meters. What you will find are quiet streets, colonial houses that haven't yet been turned into hostels, and a street art scene that grows without making a fuss. As of May 2026, El Cabrero remains that place where local artists paint entire walls without permission from the Mayor's Office, and where serigraphy and painting workshops open their doors to anyone who knocks wanting to learn.
This neighborhood has a history few know. It was named after a goat farm that existed during the colonial era, and for decades it was a middle-class residential area, away from the tourist bustle. Today, its murals tell stories of resistance, Afro-Colombian heritage, and daily life in Cartagena. If you are a creative traveler, a digital nomad, or simply someone looking for an authentic experience away from the crowds, this article is for you. I will tell you where to find the most impressive murals, which workshops to visit, how to get around, and even where to grab a coffee while watching an artist work.
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What to Do in El Cabrero: Murals You Can't Miss
El Cabrero is not a large neighborhood, but it is full of surprises. The best way to explore it is on foot, with your camera ready and without rushing. Here are five key murals you must see, with their stories and how to get to them. Each one is special: some were painted by renowned artists, others by young locals just starting out.
1. "La Negra que Baila" – Calle 1A # 3-45
This mural, about 8 meters high, is on the facade of an abandoned house, right on the corner of Calle 1A and Carrera 3. It was painted in 2022 by Cartagena-born artist María José Lozano, known in the local circuit as "Majo." The work depicts a Black woman in a red dress, dancing champeta, the popular rhythm of the Caribbean coast. The figure's eyes look towards the sea, as if remembering that the neighborhood has always been connected to the water. Majo once told me she painted this woman thinking of her grandmother, who lived in El Cabrero her whole life and never stopped dancing. If you go in the morning, the sunlight hits the mural directly, making the colors look more vibrant.
2. "El Pescador de Sueños" – Carrera 2 # 1-10
On the side wall of a grocery store called "Donde Lucho," you will find this mural about 4 meters wide. It was created by the Arte Caribe collective, a group of three local artists who work with spray paint and acrylics. The image is of an elderly man sitting in a boat, with a fishing rod that has a star instead of a hook. It represents the neighborhood's connection to artisanal fishing, an activity still practiced in the nearby bay. The store owner, Don Lucho, says people stop to take photos every day, and he's gotten used to being asked about the mural while selling beers.
3. "Raíces de África" – Calle 2 # 4-20
This is one of the largest murals in the neighborhood, covering an entire three-story facade of a residential building. It was painted by artist Jhonatan Palacios, known as "Jhonny P," in 2023. The work is a tribute to Cartagena's African heritage: it features faces, masks, and geometric patterns reminiscent of Yoruba and Bantu cultures. Jhonny is a young man, 28 years old, who started painting on the streets of El Cabrero when he was 15. Today he is one of the most respected muralists in the city, but he still lives in the neighborhood. If you are lucky, you might find him touching up the mural on weekends.
4. "El Gato de la Loma" – Carrera 5 # 2-30
On a steep street that climbs towards the Cerro de La Popa, there is a small but very photogenic mural: a black cat with yellow eyes, sitting on a crescent moon. It was painted by artist Valentina Ruiz, a Bogotá native who moved to Cartagena five years ago. The story behind it is curious: Valentina says the cat represents her pet, which was lost in the neighborhood for a week and reappeared right on that corner. The neighbors have adopted the mural as a symbol of good luck, and some leave food offerings for it. It's a good spot for a profile picture, but watch out for cars coming up quickly.
5. "Mujeres del Manglar" – Calle 3 # 1-50
This mural is at the entrance of a sewing workshop called "Moda Étnica." It was made by several artists from the Mujeres Pintoras collective, which works on themes of gender and the environment. The image shows three women harvesting mangroves, with water up to their waists. It is a reminder that the mangroves of Cartagena Bay are threatened by construction, and that the women of the neighborhood have been the main defenders of this ecosystem. The mural is recent, from February 2026, so it still smells of fresh paint when you get close.
Artist Workshops: Where Art is Made by Hand
Beyond the murals, what makes El Cabrero special is that you can see artists working in their workshops. They are not fancy galleries with inflated prices; they are small spaces, sometimes in their living rooms, where people create serigraphs, paintings, sculptures, and even printed clothing. Here are three workshops worth visiting.
Serigraphy Workshop "La Estampa"
At Carrera 4 # 2-15, in a blue-painted house, is the workshop of Carlos "Caco" Mendoza. Caco has been doing artisanal serigraphy for 12 years, and his specialty is t-shirts with designs from Cartagena's culture: champeta, fritanga, the Castillo de San Felipe. The workshop is small, with two work tables and a clothes dryer he uses to set the inks. Caco is open Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 6pm, and if you ask, he will teach you to print your own t-shirt for 30,000 COP. He guides you: you choose a design, place the stencil, pass the squeegee, and that's it. In 20 minutes you have a unique souvenir. Prices for ready-made t-shirts start at 25,000 COP, and paper serigraphs from 15,000 COP. It is recommended to check hours before visiting, because sometimes Caco closes early if he has deliveries.
Painting Workshop "El Muro Blanco"
Two blocks away, at Calle 2 # 3-10, is the workshop of artist Ana María Torres. Ana María, a 45-year-old woman who studied fine arts at the University of Cartagena, works with oil and acrylic on canvas. Her work is abstract, full of bright colors reminiscent of the Caribbean Sea. The workshop is her home, and she receives visitors with coffee from a clay pot and soda crackers. She explains her process, shows you her works in progress, and if you like something, you can buy it. Prices range from 150,000 COP for small works (30x40 cm) to 1,000,000 COP for large pieces. Ana María also gives classes on Saturday mornings, from 9am to 12pm, for 50,000 COP per person. It is a unique opportunity to learn from someone who knows Cartagena's art from the inside.
"Arte en la Calle" Collective
This is not a fixed workshop, but a group of artists who meet on Sundays in the small square of the El Cabrero Church, at Carrera 1 with Calle 1. They bring their easels, paints, and brushes, and paint outdoors as people pass by. Anyone can join: you just need to bring your materials or buy a blank canvas from them for 10,000 COP. The atmosphere is relaxed, with background music and children playing. I have seen tourists sit down to paint alongside local artists, and at the end of the day everyone shares what they made. If you are looking for an authentic experience, this is the place. The collective has no website or social media; it works by word of mouth. Ask at any store in the neighborhood and they will tell you where to find them.
Where to Eat or Drink: Neighborhood Cafes and Food
After walking and seeing art, you will surely get hungry or thirsty. In El Cabrero there are no tourist restaurants with English menus, but there are places where artists gather for a coffee or a quick bite. Here are my recommendations.
Café "La Ventana"
At Calle 2 # 4-05, this café is the meeting point for the neighborhood's muralists. It is small, with four wooden tables and a window facing the street. They serve artisan-roasted coffee from a women's cooperative in the Montes de María region. A small black coffee costs 2,000 COP, a cappuccino 5,000 COP. They also have meat or chicken empanadas for 2,500 COP each. The owner, Don Pedro, is a 60-year-old man who knows all the artists in the neighborhood and can tell you stories about each mural. Open Monday to Saturday, 7am to 8pm. On Sundays it closes early, at 2pm.
Bakery "El Buen Pan"
At Carrera 3 # 1-20, half a block from the "La Negra que Baila" mural, this bakery is famous for its arepas de huevo and pandebonos. It is a simple place, smelling of flour and butter. A pandebono costs 1,500 COP, an arepa de huevo 3,000 COP. The neighborhood artists come here for breakfast before starting to paint. Mrs. Rosa, who has been serving here for 20 years, always has a smile and recommends the day's special. Open every day from 6am to 12pm. If you arrive late, you will miss out on the arepas.
Restaurant "El Sabor de la Abuela"
For a more complete meal, go to Calle 1 # 2-30. This daily menu restaurant serves typical dishes like rice with coconut, fried fish, patacones, and salad. The menu costs 15,000 COP and includes a natural juice. The owner, Doña Martha, cooks everything using recipes from her grandmother, who was from San Basilio de Palenque. It is a popular spot among neighborhood workers, so the atmosphere is authentic and unpretentious. Open Monday to Saturday, 11am to 4pm. They do not accept cards, only cash.
How to Get There and Transportation
El Cabrero is about a 15-minute walk from the Historic Center, but if you are coming from Bocagrande or Getsemaní, there are several options.
- On foot: From the Center, cross the Puente de la Bahía (also called Puente Román) and continue straight along Avenida Santander. In 15-20 minutes you reach the entrance to the neighborhood. It is a pleasant walk with a sea view.
- By bus: Take any bus that says "El Cabrero" or "Manga" from the stop on Avenida Venezuela. The fare is 2,300 COP. Ask the driver to let you know when you reach Calle 1. Buses pass approximately every 10 minutes.
- By taxi or Uber: From the Center, a taxi costs between 8,000 and 12,000 COP. From Bocagrande, between 10,000 and 15,000 COP. It is the fastest option if you have luggage or if it is very hot.
- By bicycle: There are public bicycles in the Center (the "BiciCartagena" system) that you can rent for 2,000 COP per hour. El Cabrero has flat streets, so it is easy to get around by bike.
The neighborhood is safe to walk during the day, but as anywhere in Cartagena, avoid displaying valuables at night. The streets are well-lit until 10pm, but after that time it is better to move by taxi.
Local Tips for Photographing Respectfully
The murals of El Cabrero are a visual gift, but they must be treated with care. Here are some tips so your visit is respectful to the artists and the community.
- Ask permission before photographing people: If you see an artist working, ask if you can take their photo. Most will say yes, but they appreciate being asked. Do not take photos of neighborhood residents without their consent, especially children.
- Do not touch the murals: It seems obvious, but I have seen tourists put their hands on fresh paint or sit on the edge of a mural. Paint can be damaged by sweat or sun. Keep a distance of at least 50 cm.
- Use natural light: The murals look best between 9am and 11am, when the sun is high but not too strong. Avoid flash, as it can dull the colors and bother the neighbors.
- Do not leave trash: The neighborhood does not have many public trash cans. Bring a bag for your waste and dispose of it at your hotel or a café. The murals are part of the community, and keeping them clean is everyone's responsibility.
- Buy something local: If you like a mural, support the artist by buying a t-shirt, a painting, or a coffee in the neighborhood. This way the art stays alive and the artists can keep painting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to visit El Cabrero alone or as a couple?
Yes, it is safe during the day. The neighborhood is residential and quiet, with families and artists on the streets. At night, it is better to go accompanied and move by taxi, especially if you don't know the area. As in any neighborhood in Cartagena, keep your belongings close and avoid dark streets.
How much time do I need to see the murals?
Taking it easy, about 3 hours is enough to see the 5 main murals and stop by a workshop. If you want to do a serigraphy or painting workshop, budget an additional 2 hours. Ideally, dedicate half a day, from 9am to 1pm, and then have lunch in the neighborhood.
Do the murals change often?
Yes, some murals are painted over when a new artist arrives in the neighborhood. The ones I mentioned in this article are the most stable, but there are always surprises. If you visit in May 2026, these should be intact, but I recommend asking at Café La Ventana about new murals. Local artists always have something fresh.
Can I buy artwork directly from the artists?
Yes, most sell their works. In the serigraphy and painting workshops, prices are affordable (from 15,000 COP). The murals are not for sale because they are part of the facades, but the artists have canvases, t-shirts, and prints for sale. Negotiate respectfully: they appreciate genuine interest more than aggressive haggling.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Cartagena is known for its impressive Historic Center, but what many visitors don't know is that El Cabrero, an area in the north of the city, is a vibrant refuge of urban art and creativity. This neighborhood, once a working area for fishermen, has evolved into a space where murals tell community stories and local artist workshops reflect the rich culture of the region.
El Cabrero has been a meeting point for emerging artists seeking a space to express their vision. The murals on the streets not only beautify the environment but also address social and political themes, turning every wall into an open-air gallery. Additionally, its proximity to the sea gives it a fresh air that invites you to stroll and discover its corners.
As you explore El Cabrero, don't forget to interact with the local artists. Many of them are willing to share the story behind their works and their creative process, which further enriches the experience. Here are some tips to make the most of your visit: