Versalles: Cali's Secret Italian Cuisine (Beyond Pizza)

Introduction: Versalles, the Neighborhood That Tastes Like Nonna

If you walk through Versalles on a Tuesday at noon, the first thing you notice isn't the silence of a residential neighborhood in northern Cali. It's the smell. A smell of onion sautéed in butter, of garlic, fresh basil, and tomato sauce simmering slowly since eleven in the morning. Here, among houses from the sixties and discreet apartment buildings, hides a secret few tourists know: Versalles is the heart of authentic Italian cuisine in Cali. I'm not talking about chain pizzerias or instant pasta restaurants. I'm talking about nonnas who still knead dough by hand, immigrants from the second Italian wave who arrived in the fifties and sixties, and children and grandchildren who keep grandma's recipes alive. In May 2026, this neighborhood remains a refuge for those seeking a plate of pasta that feels like a hug.

What to Do in Versalles: Beyond the Plate of Pasta

Versalles doesn't have the nightlife of the Zona Rosa or the murals of San Antonio. Its charm lies in the everyday. You come here to eat well, to have a coffee with a cannoli, and to stroll without hurry. The neighborhood is flat, tree-lined, and safe during the day. The main streets are Avenida 4 Norte and Calle 13 Norte, where the restaurants are concentrated. But there are also hidden gems on the side streets.

A Walking Tour of Italian History

Before sitting down to eat, it's worth walking along Carrera 3A with Calle 14. There you'll find the former headquarters of the Club Italiano, a building that now hosts private events but recalls the time when the Italian community gathered to play bocce and celebrate the grape harvest. It's not a tourist spot, but if you peek through the gate, you'll understand why this neighborhood has that DNA.

The Bakery You Can't Miss

At Calle 13 Norte # 3-45 you'll find Panadería y Pastelería Versalles, a family-run shop that has been operating since 1975. It's not an Italian restaurant per se, but here they sell the best artisan bread in the neighborhood and some almond biscotti that rival those from any trattoria in Rome. Order a latte and a piece of tiramisù to whet your appetite. Reference price: $6,000 COP for coffee, $12,000 COP for tiramisù.

Where to Eat in Versalles: 5 Non-Chain Italian Restaurants

Here is the map I promised. These five places are the ones locals frequent and foodies seek out. No chains or franchises. Just families, inherited recipes, and an obsession with quality.

1. Trattoria Da Nino: The Sicilian Grandmother Who Never Fails

Address: Calle 14 Norte # 3-50
Average Price: $35,000 - $55,000 COP per dish
Signature Dish: Risotto ai funghi porcini ($42,000 COP)
Da Nino is the oldest of the five. It was opened by Don Nino, a Sicilian who arrived in Cali in 1962 and set up the restaurant in his living room. Today it is run by his daughter, Marcela, who learned to make pasta from her grandmother. The risotto ai funghi porcini is a spectacle: they prepare it with imported carnaroli rice and dried mushrooms brought from Italy. The secret, says Marcela, is the vegetable broth that simmers for three hours. There's no rush here. On weekends, it fills up with families who book a week in advance. If you go during the week, the executive lunch (soup + main course + dessert) costs $28,000 COP and is an absolute steal.

2. La Bottega del Gusto: Artisanal Pastas That Look Like Jewels

Address: Avenida 4 Norte # 15-12
Average Price: $40,000 - $70,000 COP per dish
Signature Dish: Tagliatelle al ragù di cinghiale ($58,000 COP)
This is the place for fresh pasta obsessives. Behind the glass counter, you see the cooks stretching the dough by hand. The tagliatelle al ragù di cinghiale (wild boar) is unique in Cali. The meat comes from a farm in the Valle, and it's cooked for six hours with red wine, pear tomatoes, and herbs from the owner's garden, Mr. Giovanni, a Milanese man who fell in love with a Caleña and never left. The place is small — only eight tables — so on Thursdays and Friday nights, lines form. Local tip: arrive at 12:30 pm on Saturdays, just as they open, and order the dish of the day, which is almost always a seasonal surprise.

3. Osteria del Nonno: The Trattoria of Nonna's Desserts

Address: Calle 13 Norte # 4-20
Average Price: $30,000 - $50,000 COP per dish
Signature Dish: Panna cotta with berry coulis ($18,000 COP) and potato gnocchi ($35,000 COP)
The name says it: Nonno is the grandfather. Here, the star isn't the pasta, but the desserts. The panna cotta is so silky it feels like a dream, and the tiramisù is made with imported mascarpone and Colombian estate coffee (a blend that works). The potato gnocchi are made daily at 7 am. The owner, Mr. Luigi, a 78-year-old Roman, still supervises the kitchen. He says the secret is not to overwork the dough. If you go on a Sunday at noon, you'll likely see him sitting at the back table, drinking red wine with regular customers.

4. Pasta & Passione: The Fusion That Works

Address: Carrera 3A # 14-60
Average Price: $45,000 - $65,000 COP per dish
Signature Dish: Spaghetti alla carbonara with smoked pancetta ($48,000 COP)
Don't be fooled by the generic name. Pasta & Passione is the project of Chef Valentina, granddaughter of Italians but born in Cali. She studied cooking in Bologna and returned to open this place in 2018. Her carbonara is the most faithful to the original recipe I've tried in Colombia: only egg yolk, pecorino cheese, pancetta, and black pepper. No cream. The place is modern, with a concrete bar and wooden chairs, and attracts a younger crowd. Wednesdays are pasta night at 7:30 pm, where they prepare a surprise dish for $30,000 COP. Reservations are recommended as they only have 20 seats.

5. Il Forno di Versalles: The Pizza That Isn't Pizza (and the Lasagna That Is)

Address: Calle 14 Norte # 4-10
Average Price: $25,000 - $45,000 COP per dish
Signature Dish: Classic Nonna's Lasagna ($38,000 COP)
The name says "forno" (oven), but don't come just for the pizza. The lasagna here is legendary: eight layers of fresh pasta, béchamel, beef and pork ragù, and a mozzarella gratin that crackles with the first bite. The recipe is from the family's nonna, who arrived from Naples in 1958. The place looks like an old house, with exposed brick walls and black-and-white photos of the grandparents. The owner, Roberto, personally attends to the tables and always recommends the house wine, a Chilean red that pairs perfectly with the lasagna. Attention: on Thursdays at lunchtime, there's a line from 11:45 am. Arrive early or order takeout.

Where to Drink in Versalles: Wine, Coffee, and More

After the pasta, nothing beats a good wine or a specialty coffee. In Versalles, there are options that complement the Italian experience.

Enoteca Versalles

Address: Avenida 4 Norte # 14-30
Average Price: Glasses from $15,000 COP
A small enoteca with 40 Italian wine references. The owner, Mr. Antonio, a retired sommelier, helps you choose according to your dish. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 5 pm to 10 pm. On Fridays, they offer a complimentary glass of prosecco with the purchase of two glasses.

Café Versalles (The Corner One)

Address: Calle 13 Norte with Carrera 4
Average Price: American coffee $4,000 COP
A neighborhood café that has been serving black coffee with yucca bread for 40 years. It's not Italian, but it's the meeting point for the neighborhood's cooks. If you want to hear local kitchen gossip, sit at the counter at 10 am.

How to Get to Versalles and Transportation

Versalles is in northern Cali, about 20 minutes by car from downtown. Getting there is simple, but you need to know the routes.

By Private Car or Taxi

From downtown, take Avenida 4 Norte north. The neighborhood is between Calles 12 and 16 Norte. There is a public parking lot at Calle 14 Norte # 3-40 (cost: $4,000 COP per hour). On weekends, the streets fill up, so it's best to arrive early.

By Public Transport

The MIO (bus system) has the Versalles station on the Troncal Norte line. From the station, walk 5 minutes east along Calle 14 Norte. The P47 route (feeder) also passes by, dropping you off on Avenida 4 Norte.

By Bicycle

Cali has bike lanes connecting the north to downtown. The safest route is along Avenida 4 Norte, which has a bike lane. Most restaurants have bicycle parking.

Local Tips for Enjoying Versalles Like a Caleño

Here are the tips only a local would give you:

• Avoid peak hours: Versalles' Italian restaurants fill up between 12:30 pm and 1:30 pm for lunch, and between 7:30 pm and 9:00 pm for dinner. If you can, have lunch at 11:45 am or 2:00 pm. On Sundays, lunch is from 12:00 pm to 3:00 pm, but lines are long after 1:00 pm.
• Book in advance: For Da Nino and Osteria del Nonno, call a day ahead. For Pasta & Passione, make a reservation online via their Instagram page. They don't accept last-minute reservations on Fridays.
• Order the dish of the day: At La Bottega del Gusto and Il Forno, the menu changes based on what's fresh. Ask for the "piatto del giorno" before deciding. It's almost always cheaper and more authentic.
• Bring cash: Some small restaurants like Il Forno don't accept credit cards. Bring bills of $20,000 and $50,000 COP.
• Don't leave without dessert: The panna cotta at Osteria del Nonno and the tiramisù at Panadería Versalles are must-haves. If you can only have one, choose the panna cotta.
• Fun fact: The Italian community of Versalles used to gather in the 1960s at the now-defunct "Cantina del Italiano," a bar on Calle 14 where they played dominoes and sang Neapolitan songs. The owners of Da Nino and Osteria del Nonno were regular customers. Ask them, and they'll tell you stories not found in any guidebook.

Frequently Asked Questions About Versalles and Its Italian Cuisine

Is it true that Versalles is the Italian neighborhood of Cali?

Yes, although it's not a tourist neighborhood like La Candelaria in Bogotá. Versalles was the destination for many Italian immigrants who arrived in Cali between 1950 and 1970, mainly from Sicily, Campania, and Lombardy. Today, although the community has blended in, the culinary heritage remains alive in the family-run restaurants.

Which is the best restaurant to go with children?

Il Forno di Versalles is the most family-friendly. They have a children's menu (pasta with butter and cheese, $18,000 COP) and the atmosphere is relaxed. Plus, kids can watch the wood-fired oven from the counter. However, avoid peak hours because space is limited.

Can I find vegetarian or vegan options in these restaurants?

Yes, but with limitations. At Trattoria Da Nino, the risotto ai funghi porcini is vegetarian (ask for no parmesan if you're vegan). At La Bottega del Gusto, they have a seasonal pasta with roasted vegetables. For vegan options, it's best to ask directly, as most sauces contain butter or cheese. Pasta & Passione offers a vegan option on Wednesdays (spaghetti with basil pesto without cheese, $32,000 COP).