From tranquility to the noise of cranes: the Bello Horizonte that is slipping away
Ten years ago, Bello Horizonte was that neighborhood in southern Santa Marta where people went to find silence. There were no buildings blocking the sun for the neighbor, no restaurants with menus in English, no lines of 4x4 trucks on weekends. It was a collection of two-story houses, entire families who had been putting down roots for decades, and a sea breeze that slipped through the unpaved streets. Today, in May 2026, the landscape is different. The backhoes give no respite, the "For Sale" signs multiply like mushrooms after the rain, and the entire neighborhood seems to be in a race against time: deciding whether it wants to be the new Rodadero or die trying to stay the same.
The change is no coincidence. Bello Horizonte has a location that urban planners call "privileged": it is less than 10 minutes from El Rodadero beach, fifteen minutes from the historic center, and right on the corridor connecting Santa Marta to the road towards Minca and the Sierra Nevada. But this geographic privilege, once synonymous with quality of life, has now become a magnet for real estate speculation and mass tourism. And those who live there know it.
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What happened in the last ten years?
To understand the present, you have to look back. Until 2016, Bello Horizonte was a lower-middle-class neighborhood, with dirt roads, few traffic lights, and a community life centered around the corner store and the soccer field. Most of its inhabitants were lifelong samario families, hotel workers, or local merchants. There wasn't a single building over four stories, and the few hostels that existed were more like family-run guesthouses.
The breaking point came between 2019 and 2021, when Santa Marta began to position itself as a star destination in the Colombian Caribbean. The arrival of direct flights from the United States and Europe, coupled with the rise of remote work, led hundreds of foreigners and people from Bogotá to seek cheap properties near the sea. Bello Horizonte, with its large lots and still affordable prices, became the perfect target. In 2022, land purchases for building gated communities skyrocketed, and by 2024 there were more cranes than palm trees in the neighborhood.
Real estate projects: the names changing the landscape
Today, walking down the main streets of Bello Horizonte means running into billboards for projects that sound more like Miami than Santa Marta. Some of the gated communities already under construction or recently delivered are:
- Terrazas del Mar: a 6-tower complex with an infinity pool and gym, located on Carrera 5. Launch prices from $450 million COP.
- Reserva de la Sierra: a set of duplex houses with a view of the Sierra Nevada, in the upper part of the neighborhood. They are to be delivered in December 2026.
- Bahía Horizonte: a building of studio apartments focused on vacation rentals, with 120 units. It already has 70% pre-sales, mostly to foreign investors.
- Altos de Bello: a social interest housing project that seeks to maintain the local character, but has generated controversy due to its density (400 apartments on a small lot).
In addition to these, there are at least a dozen lots for sale with approved plans to build towers up to 10 stories high. The question many ask is: who is going to live there? Because the traditional families of the neighborhood cannot afford those prices.
Infrastructure: is it enough for all this?
Real estate growth has not gone hand in hand with public investment. The main roads of Bello Horizonte, such as Carrera 4 and Calle 12, remain narrow and full of potholes. Street lighting is deficient in several areas, and the sewage system collapses every time it rains heavily. Longtime residents complain that the new gated communities dump their wastewater into the old system, causing flooding in the lower houses.
As for parks, the neighborhood has two: the Central Park of Bello Horizonte (a multi-purpose court with playground equipment) and a small linear park on Carrera 3. Both are neglected, with broken benches and little vegetation. There are no bike lanes or safe pedestrian areas. And while real estate projects promise "private" green areas, public space is shrinking.
Tourist pressure: hostels, restaurants and local resistance
Tourism has arrived, but not in the way many expected. Instead of large hotels, boutique hostels and vacation rental apartments on platforms like Airbnb have proliferated. It is estimated that in 2025 there were over 200 short-term rental units in Bello Horizonte, compared to fewer than 30 in 2020. This has driven up rental prices: a two-bedroom apartment that cost $800,000 COP per month in 2021 now costs no less than $1,800,000.
The change is also noticeable in the food scene. Restaurants like La Mesa de Bello (fusion food, dishes from $45,000), Café Sierra (specialty single-origin coffee, prices from $12,000 upwards), and Mar y Tierra Parrilla (grilled meats, average $35,000) have opened. But there is also resistance: Tienda de Doña Rosa, an empanada and fresh juice stand that has been on the corner of Carrera 6 for 25 years, still sells empanadas for $2,000 and is the meeting point for neighbors who don't want the neighborhood to become "another Zona Rosa".
Testimony from a longtime resident
Don Carlos Márquez is 68 years old and has lived in Bello Horizonte since he was born. His house, a wattle and daub construction with a zinc roof, is surrounded by two apartment towers under construction. "Look, I'm not against progress, but this isn't progress. This is an invasion. Before, you knew all the neighbors, you'd sit on the sidewalk to drink coffee. Now the only people I see are foreigners who don't say hello and workers who work from sunup to sundown. My house is worth three times what it was five years ago, but what good is that if I can't pay the taxes that have gone up? They offered to buy it from me, but where would I go? This is my land."
Don Carlos is not alone. An informal survey conducted by the Community Action Board in March 2026 revealed that 62% of longtime residents feel the neighborhood is changing for the worse, while 78% of new residents (people who arrived after 2022) consider the development positive. The generational and economic divide is evident.
Projection for 5 years: will it become another Rodadero?
El Rodadero, Santa Marta's quintessential tourist neighborhood, is the mirror many look into with fear. There, the uncontrolled real estate development of the 90s and 2000s left a landscape of apartment towers stacked against each other, crowded beaches, hellish traffic, and an almost total loss of local identity. In Bello Horizonte, the patterns are similar: the same concentration of foreign investment, the same neglect of public space, the same pressure on basic services.
However, there are key differences. Bello Horizonte still has empty lots and old houses that could be protected as architectural heritage. The organized community has begun to mobilize: in February 2026, the "Bello Horizonte Sustainable Development Roundtable" was created, bringing together residents, small business owners, and some builders to discuss a land use plan. Additionally, the Santa Marta Mayor's Office has announced a study to declare the neighborhood a "Controlled Development Area," which would limit building heights to 5 stories.
But the 5-year projections are mixed. If no measures are taken, Bello Horizonte could become a miniature Rodadero: more towers, more traffic, more Airbnbs, and less neighborhood life. If the community and government manage to coordinate, it could become a model of sustainable tourism development, where new projects coexist with corner stores and public parks. The balance hangs in the air.
How to get there and transportation
Getting to Bello Horizonte is relatively easy from any point in Santa Marta:
- From the historic center: take a bus on the "Bello Horizonte - Centro" route, which leaves every 15 minutes from Calle 22. The trip takes about 25 minutes and costs $2,800 COP.
- From El Rodadero: there are direct buses that pass along the Troncal del Caribe. You can also take a taxi for about $15,000 COP (approximately 15 minutes).
- By private car: from the alternate road to the airport, take the exit towards Carrera 4. The neighborhood has no public parking, but many gated communities offer visitor parking.
- By bicycle: it is possible, but the streets have no bike lanes and traffic can be dangerous during peak hours.
Internal transportation within the neighborhood is on foot or by mototaxi (rides from $3,000 COP). There are no TransMilenio stations or mass transit systems nearby.
Local tips
- Hours: most restaurants and shops close between 8pm and 10pm. Don't expect intense nightlife, except on weekends at the hostels.
- Safety: Bello Horizonte is generally safe, but as in all of Santa Marta, avoid walking alone on dark streets after 10pm. Cell phone thefts have increased in recent months.
- Climate: the neighborhood is cooler than the center thanks to the sea breeze, but still wear sunscreen and bring water. The sun is strong between 11am and 3pm.
- Language: more and more businesses have bilingual staff, but in traditional shops they only speak Spanish. Bring cash; many places don't accept cards.
- Neighbors: if you want to learn the real history of the neighborhood, sit down at Tienda de Doña Rosa and order an empanada. The locals are friendly and like to chat.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to invest in Bello Horizonte today?
It depends on the investor's profile. Prices have risen 40% in the last three years, and demand for vacation rentals remains high. However, there are risks: potential height regulations could limit the profitability of large projects, and the saturation of the Airbnb market is already creating more competitive prices. It is recommended to consult with a local real estate agent and review the current Land Use Plan.
What is the community doing to stop gentrification?
The Community Action Board has promoted monthly meetings to discuss the neighborhood's development. A petition has also been created on Change.org for the Mayor's Office to declare Bello Horizonte a "Local Urban Heritage" site, which would protect old buildings. Additionally, some residents have formed a housing cooperative to buy lots and build social interest projects.
Is it worth living in Bello Horizonte as a digital nomad?
Yes, if you are looking for tranquility and connection with nature. The neighborhood has good internet signal (fiber optics in most new complexes), is close to the beach and the Sierra Nevada, and living costs are lower than in El Rodadero or the center. But keep in mind that the coworking offer is limited (there are only two formal spaces) and that public transportation can be inconvenient if you work night shifts.
The future of Bello Horizonte is not written. It depends on the decisions made today, on whether the community can make its voice heard against the money of construction companies, and on whether tourists and investors understand that a neighborhood is not just a place to sleep or make money, but a fabric of stories, families, and memories. For now, the cranes keep turning, and the Caribbean wind brings the smell of cement mixed with salt. The question is: what are we going to do about it?
Historical or contextual introduction
Bello Horizonte, a neighborhood that has undergone a remarkable transformation in the last decade, was once known for its tranquility and open spaces, ideal for those seeking to escape the hustle and bustle. However, with urban growth and tourist interest, the panorama has changed. Today, the neighborhood is positioning itself as a new tourist hub in Santa Marta, attracting both national and international visitors.
The history of Bello Horizonte dates back to its beginnings as a residential area, where single-family homes dominated the landscape. With the rise of tourism in the region, especially due to its proximity to the beach and the Sierra Nevada, taller buildings and tourist complexes began to emerge. This evolution has led to a significant increase in the range of services, from restaurants to recreational activities.
One of the most notable aspects of this change is the cultural diversity now experienced in the neighborhood. The arrival of new residents and tourists has enriched the environment with a mix of traditions and flavors, making Bello Horizonte a vibrant and lively place.
Furthermore, the local community has begun to adapt to this transformation, seeking to maintain its identity while benefiting from tourism growth. The key to enjoying Bello Horizonte is to explore beyond the beaches and discover the history and culture the neighborhood has to offer.
Things to do
Visit Bello Horizonte Beach
Bello Horizonte Beach has evolved over the last decade, becoming a popular destination for both tourists and locals. In addition to enjoying the sun and sea, you can find beach bars where you can try delicious fried fish accompanied by patacones. Insider Tip: Go in the mornings to enjoy a quieter atmosphere and take advantage of the midday hours to savor a "coco loco," a refreshing drink that will help you beat the heat.
Explore Tayrona National Park
Just a short drive from Bello Horizonte, Tayrona National Park offers an impressive natural experience. The beautiful beaches and trails surrounded by flora and fauna invite you to disconnect. Insider Tip: Arrive early to avoid the crowds and consider bringing your own lunch; there are ideal spots for a picnic with spectacular views.
Enjoy the sunset at the Sierra Nevada Viewpoint
This viewpoint is less well-known, but offers one of the best panoramic views of the city and the Sierra Nevada. The sunset colors are impressive, and it is a perfect place for photos. Insider Tip: Bring a blanket and some snacks, and enjoy a moment of peace as the sun sets behind the mountains.
