Introduction: the natural balcony few know about
If you live in Santa Marta or are visiting, you have surely heard of El Rodadero, Taganga, and the Historic Center. But there is a neighborhood that few mention and that holds one of the city's best-kept secrets: Bello Horizonte. It is not just any neighborhood. It is a natural viewpoint over the Caribbean Sea, a balcony of cliffs where the sunset looks like a living postcard. The first time I went up, a neighbor told me: "Here the sun hides behind the sea, but the view stays stuck in your eyes." And he wasn't exaggerating.
Bello Horizonte is located in the upper part of the city, south of the Center, on a hillside that looks directly out to the ocean. For years it was a neighborhood of fishermen and families who built their houses literally hanging from the cliff. Today, it is a place that mixes the tranquility of a town with the adrenaline of walking along dirt paths that border precipices. In May 2026, the neighborhood remains a refuge for those seeking peace, fresh air, and a priceless view. But be careful: it is not for everyone. If you get vertigo, better stay on a café terrace. If you like adventure, here is your plan.
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What to do in Bello Horizonte
The cliff route: urban hiking with a sea view
The heart of Bello Horizonte is its pedestrian path that runs along the edge of the cliff. It is not a national park or a route marked with pretty signs. It is a path of dirt, stones, and vegetation that the neighbors themselves have maintained for decades. The most common starting point is the intersection of Carrera 5 with Calle 20, right where the pavement ends and the trail begins. From there, you walk about 15 minutes north, hugging the edge of the cliff. The difficulty is medium-low, but there are sections with steep slopes and loose ground, so wear closed-toe shoes. The best time is between 4:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m., just when the sun starts to go down and the heat subsides. If you go in the morning, the sun hits you head-on and the landscape is brighter, but the sunset is the real show.
During the walk, you will come across small natural squares where locals sit to chat or read. There is an unmarked viewpoint, about 300 meters from the start, which is the most photogenic spot: a flat rock that juts out into the void, with the sea in the background. The neighbors call it "Don Pedro's Balcony," after a man who lived there since the 1970s and built a wooden staircase to go down to the beach. The beach is not accessible today (erosion has made it dangerous), but the view from above is impeccable.
Sunset photography: the magical moment
If you are one of those who travel with a camera or simply like the sunset, Bello Horizonte is your place. Unlike Santa Marta Bay, where the sun hides behind the Sierra Nevada, here the sun sets directly over the sea. Between 5:15 p.m. and 5:45 p.m., the light turns golden, then orange, and finally reddish. The sky reflects in the water and the silhouettes of fishing boats are outlined against the horizon. Locals know the best spot is Don Pedro's rock, but there is also a concrete bench at the end of Calle 22, right where the trail opens up to a dirt esplanade. Bring water, mosquito repellent, and a flashlight, because when night falls, the path gets dark quickly.
Birdwatching and wildlife
The cliff at Bello Horizonte is home to several species of seabirds and land birds. During the hike, it is common to see seagulls, pelicans, and even hawks gliding on the wind. If you go quietly, you can also find iguanas sunbathing on the rocks. There is a group of neighbors that organizes guided walks on Saturday mornings, focusing on birdwatching. Ask at the corner store on Carrera 5 with Calle 21; they know who organizes it.
Where to eat or drink in Bello Horizonte
Home-cooked food with a view
Bello Horizonte is not a gastronomic neighborhood like the Center or El Rodadero. There are no chain restaurants or famous chefs here. What you will find are family kitchens that open their doors to anyone who arrives hungry. The best-known place is "El Mirador de la Abuela," at Carrera 5 # 22-15. It is a house with an outdoor terrace where Doña María prepares arepas de huevo, patacones con hogao, and fried fish with coconut rice. Dishes range from $12,000 COP to $25,000 COP. It is open Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Do not expect a written menu; she tells you what she has and you decide.
Another option is the store "Donde Jairo," on Calle 20 with Carrera 4. It is not a restaurant, but they sell empanadas, pastries, and ice-cold sodas. It is the meeting point for neighbors after the walk. If you are lucky, Jairo himself will offer you a black coffee while you watch the sea. Prices from $2,000 COP.
Drinks and nightlife
The neighborhood has no bars or nightclubs. The nightlife here is quiet: a beer on a house terrace, or a rum with coconut while watching the city lights below. If you want something livelier, head down to the Center or the Zona Rosa of Santa Marta, but if you are looking for silence and stars, Bello Horizonte is perfect. Some neighbors offer "sunsets with wine" on weekends, with a cheese and fruit board. Ask at Don Jairo's store or at the reception of the few houses that rent rooms.
How to get to Bello Horizonte and transportation
By public transport
From the Center of Santa Marta, take a bus on the "Bello Horizonte" or "Villa del Mar" route on Carrera 1 with Calle 22. Buses pass every 15-20 minutes and the trip takes about 25 minutes. The fare is $2,200 COP (May 2026). Get off at the stop on Carrera 5 with Calle 20, which is the main entrance to the neighborhood. If you are coming from El Rodadero, take a bus towards the Center and get off at the same intersection.
By bike or on foot
Cycling up to Bello Horizonte is a challenge, but it is possible. The slope is steep from Avenida del Ferrocarril to Carrera 5. I recommend doing it early in the morning, before 8:00 a.m., when traffic is minimal. If you are walking from the Center, allow about 40 minutes of constant uphill. Bring water and sunscreen, because the sun is strong.
By car or taxi
From the Center, a taxi costs between $8,000 and $12,000 COP. From El Rodadero, between $15,000 and $20,000 COP. The neighborhood streets are narrow and some are unpaved, so if it rains, mud can complicate access. It is better to leave the car in the lower part and walk.
Local tips for enjoying Bello Horizonte
- Wear non-slip footwear: the cliff trail has loose stones and dirt. Running shoes or light boots are ideal.
- Do not go alone at sunset if you do not know the path: the route has no lighting. If it is your first time, go with a companion or a local who knows the terrain.
- Respect private property: many houses have terraces that look public, but they are private. Do not enter without permission. The neighbors are friendly, but trust is earned.
- Bring cash: there are no ATMs or card machines in the neighborhood stores. Prices are low, but in cash.
- The best day to go is Friday or Saturday: on weekends there is more activity, Don Jairo's store fills up with neighbors, and sometimes they have gatherings with music and food.
- Be careful with dogs: there are several stray dogs in the neighborhood. They are generally calm, but if they see you running or on a bike, they might chase you. Walk calmly and do not provoke them.
- If you are going to take photos, bring a small tripod: the sunset light changes quickly and long-exposure photos look spectacular from Don Pedro's Balcony.
A curious fact: Bello Horizonte was one of the first neighborhoods in Santa Marta to have electricity thanks to a community effort in the 1960s. The neighbors pooled money to buy a generator that they shared among several houses. Today, the neighborhood has normal electrical service, but that story of self-management lives on in the way they care for the cliff and the trail.
Frequently asked questions about Bello Horizonte
Is it safe to walk along the Bello Horizonte cliff?
Yes, it is generally safe during the day. The neighbors are friendly and the neighborhood is quiet, but as anywhere, I do not recommend going alone at night or with valuables in sight. Bring only what you need and keep your big camera put away if you are not using it.
Can you get to the viewpoint by car?
Not directly. The cliff trail is pedestrian and narrow. You can leave the car in the lower part of the neighborhood, on Carrera 5 with Calle 20, and walk. Some internal streets are very steep and unpaved, so it is best to avoid driving up if you do not know the area well.
Is there accommodation in Bello Horizonte?
Yes, but it is limited. Some houses rent rooms with a sea view, especially on Airbnb or by local recommendation. There are no large hotels or hostels. If you are looking for something affordable and authentic, ask at Don Jairo's store; he knows families that host guests. Prices range from $40,000 COP per night for a shared room to $100,000 COP for a private room with a bathroom.
What is the best time of year to visit Bello Horizonte?
From December to March, when the weather is drier and the sky is clear. In May 2026, which is a transition season, you can still have sunny days, but bring a light raincoat in case it rains. Sunsets are more dramatic right after a rain, when the sky clears and the colors are more intense.
Is there a cost to access the trail?
No, the trail is public and free. There is no entrance fee or charge. Just respect the space and do not leave trash. The neighbors appreciate visitors taking care of the place.
