Night in Manga Begins with a Whisper
If you come to Cartagena looking for the noisy nightlife of the clubs in the Historic Center, Manga is not for you. But if you enjoy walking along tree-lined streets where the only sound is the waves crashing against the walls, and you like the idea of having a drink in a bar that seems purposely hidden, then this neighborhood will captivate you. Manga was the city's first residential neighborhood, built on an old mangrove swamp that gave it its name, and its pastel-colored Republican houses hold more stories than any museum. Here, the night is not lived in a hurry: it is discovered step by step, lamppost by lamppost, amidst legends of sailors who swear they have seen a ghostly lighthouse keeper in the tower of the old lighthouse.
Today, May 2026, Manga remains that corner where we Cartageneros go to escape the tourist hustle. And if you are one of those looking for authentic romance, true bohemia, and a couple of stories that will give you goosebumps, stay. I am going to take you on a route that does not appear in the official guides.
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The Legend of the Ghost Lighthouse Keeper: The Soul That Still Watches the Bay
Before heading out for a drink, you need to understand why Manga has that mysterious air when the sun goes down. At the tip of the peninsula, right where the Club de Pesca is today, there was a lighthouse that guided ships entering the bay. Local lore tells of a lighthouse keeper named Don Emilio, a solitary man who lived in the tower, who died one stormy night in 1923 trying to keep the light on. His body was never found, but ever since, fishermen working in the early morning hours claim to see a silhouette turning a lantern on and off at the end of the pier. It is not a story to scare tourists: in my family, my grandfather, who was a fisherman in Bocagrande, swore he saw it three times.
The original lighthouse no longer exists, but the Club de Pesca, which occupies the same land, has a replica. If you go at night, especially on moonless nights, it is not uncommon to hear waiters talk about customers who have seen shadows moving among the empty tables. Reality or suggestion? For me, it is part of Manga's charm.
Night Route: Three Bars You Can't Miss
The route I propose starts at 8 PM and ends around 3 AM at the fishermen's pier. It is a walk you can do without any problem, because Manga is safe if you know where to go. That said, wear comfortable shoes and a light jacket: the bay wind is strong at this hour.
First Stop: The Jazz Basement (Bar La Vitrola, but not the one in the Historic Center)
Most people know La Vitrola in the Historic Center, but few know that in Manga there is a more intimate and hidden version. It is called La Vitrola Manga and it is in a basement on Calle 24 with Carrera 21, right next to the San Pedro Claver church. The entrance looks like any ordinary house: a green wooden door with no sign. If you don't know it exists, you walk right past it. Inside, live jazz starts at 9 PM, with local musicians playing everything from bossa nova to Caribbean fusion jazz standards. The walls are exposed brick, the lights are dim, and the smell of aged rum and tobacco envelops you. Order a Canchánchara (aguardiente, honey, and lime) or a Passion Fruit Mojito. Prices are moderate: cocktails from $25,000 COP. It is recommended to arrive before 8:30 PM because capacity is limited to 30 people.
Second Stop: Terrace with a View of the Bay (El Baluarte de la Soledad)
After the jazz, walk 10 minutes south along Avenida del Lago. You will arrive at El Baluarte de la Soledad, a bar on the second floor of a restored Republican house. The terrace faces the bay directly, and from there you can see the lights of Bocagrande and the Castillo de San Felipe in the background. The place is small, with only six tables, but the view is one of those that leaves you speechless. The specialty here is Chilean wines and signature cocktails. Try the Soledad Sour (whiskey, lime, passion fruit, and a touch of ginger). They are open Tuesday to Sunday, from 6 PM to 1 AM. Prices are a bit higher: wines from $40,000 COP per glass. If you go as a couple, ask for the table at the back, the one right by the sea. Locals call it "the lovers' table."
Third Stop: Traditional Drums in Doña Ceci's Patio
This is the most authentic stop and the one fewest tourists know about. On Carrera 19 with Calle 25, there is an old house with an inner patio where Doña Ceci, a 70-year-old woman who was a bullerengue singer, opens her home on Fridays and Saturdays to play traditional drums. There is no sign, no social media. You only get there by a local's recommendation. Entry costs $15,000 COP and includes a coconut lemonade. The music starts at 10 PM and can last until 1 AM. Doña Ceci plays the alegre drum while her grandchildren sing songs from the Afro-Colombian tradition. The atmosphere is family-friendly, but the rhythm invites you to dance. If you don't know how to dance, don't worry: someone will teach you. It is a place where folklore is felt in your skin.
Closing at the Fishermen's Pier: Sailor Stories at 3 AM
After the drums, walk 15 minutes to the Fishermen's Pier, which is at the end of Avenida del Lago, right where the Manga neighborhood begins. At 3 AM, the fishermen are already returning with the day's catch. If you approach them respectfully and offer them a tinto (black coffee) from the corner store, they will tell you stories you won't read in any book.
Don José, a 65-year-old fisherman who has been at the trade for 50 years, once told me that on full moon nights, dolphins come close to the pier and swim in circles, as if protecting something. They also talk about the "alligator man," a creature half-man, half-reptile that, according to legend, emerges from the bay waters to take away drunks who fall asleep on the shore. Truth or myth? The fishermen swear by it. If you dare to stay until that hour, bring cash: the fishermen sometimes sell the freshly caught fish, and you can buy a mojarra for $10,000 COP to have for breakfast.
Where to Eat and Drink Before or After the Route
It's not all music and legends. In Manga, you also eat well and cheaply. Here are my recommendations:
- Restaurante La Casa de Socorro: on Calle 24 with Carrera 22. It is a popular eatery open from 7 AM to 4 PM. The daily menu includes soup, seco (rice, meat, salad), and natural juice for $12,000 COP. Perfect for loading up on energy before the night route.
- Pizzería Manga: on Carrera 20 with Calle 26. Open until 11 PM. The pizzas are wood-fired, with thin crust. A personal pizza costs $18,000 COP. The place is small, with only four tables, but the pepperoni pizza is the best in the neighborhood.
- Heladería La Paletera: on Calle 25 with Carrera 19. They sell artisanal popsicles made from tropical fruits: lulo, passion fruit, soursop. They cost $5,000 COP each. Open until 10 PM.
- Corner store at the pier: it has no name, but everyone knows it. They sell cold beer (Águila or Club Colombia) for $3,500 COP. It is the meeting point for fishermen and night owls in the neighborhood.
How to Get to Manga and Get Around at Night
Getting to Manga from the Historic Center is easy. You can take a taxi, which will cost you between $8,000 and $12,000 COP depending on the time. There are also buses that run along Avenida del Lago (Manga-Bocagrande route, $2,600 COP). If you are coming from Bocagrande, it is a 10-minute taxi ride or a 20-minute walk along Avenida San Martín.
Once in Manga, getting around on foot is the best option. The streets are quiet, with good lighting on the main avenues (Calle 24, Carrera 20, and Avenida del Lago). However, you should be careful on the darker side streets, especially after 1 AM. I recommend:
- Always walk on the main avenues, not down alleys.
- Keep your cell phone put away, not in your hand.
- Do not accept invitations from strangers to go to "private parties."
- If you take a taxi, use a ride-hailing app (Uber, Didi) or the taxi central (TeleTaxi: 605 660 0000).
- Avoid carrying visible valuables.
In general, Manga is safe compared to other areas of Cartagena. The neighbors themselves look after the neighborhood, and there is private security on several blocks. But as in any city, caution is never a bad thing.
Local Tips for Enjoying Manga Like a Cartagenero
These tips will help make your experience authentic and trouble-free:
- Talk to the neighbors: we Mangaleros (as those of us who live here call ourselves) are friendly. If you see someone sitting on their porch, say hello. They will tell you stories you won't find on the internet.
- Bring cash: many of the bars and shops don't accept cards, especially the more hidden ones. There is an ATM at the Olímpica supermarket on Calle 24, but it sometimes doesn't work at night.
- Respect the silence: Manga is residential. After 11 PM, the music in the bars is turned down. Don't expect a loud party. If that's what you want, go to the Zona Rosa in Bocagrande.
- Don't miss the sunrise: if you can hold out until 5 AM, the sun rises behind the Castillo de San Felipe and the light reflects off the house facades. It is one of the most beautiful sunrises in Cartagena.
- Try corozo juice: the corner stores sell corozo juice, a tart fruit typical of the region. It is refreshing and costs $2,000 COP.
- If you are a writer or photographer, bring a notebook and camera: Manga is an inspiring place. The facades, the streetlamps, the cats on the roofs, and the fishermen's conversations are prime material.
Fun Fact: The Pirate's House
On the corner of Calle 24 with Carrera 22, there is an abandoned house that locals call "the pirate's house." Legend has it that in the 18th century, an English pirate named John Evans lived there disguised as a merchant while planning the sacking of the city. They say you can still hear footsteps on the second floor and that, on stormy nights, a light can be seen turning on and off in the attic window. The house is in ruins, but the neighbors refuse to demolish it. If you pass by at night, look closely: some swear they have seen a silhouette peering out.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk alone at night in Manga?
Yes, generally it is safe if you stick to the main avenues like Calle 24, Carrera 20, and Avenida del Lago. Avoid the dark side streets after 1 AM. Keep your cell phone put away and don't accept invitations from strangers. If you have doubts, you can ask a ride-hailing taxi driver to wait for you while you visit a bar.
How much does a full night in Manga cost (bars, transport, and food)?
It depends on your budget, but a realistic estimate for one person is: $30,000 COP for transport (taxi round trip), $50,000 COP for cocktails (two drinks), $20,000 COP for food (a pizza or something light), and $15,000 COP if you go to Doña Ceci's patio. Total approximate: $115,000 COP. If you want to save, you can replace the cocktails with beer from the corner store.
Do the bars you mention accept credit cards?
Most of the small, hidden bars (like La Vitrola Manga and Doña Ceci's patio) only accept cash. El Baluarte de la Soledad does accept cards, but with a 5% surcharge. I recommend bringing enough cash for the whole night.
Are there organized tours to explore Manga at night?
Yes, there are night legend tours that depart from the Historic Center and pass through Manga. One highly recommended one is the "Night Tour of Legends and Lighthouses" organized by the local agency Cartagena Legendaria. They only have 10 spots per departure, so you need to book at least three days in advance. You can contact them on Instagram (@cartagenalegendaria) or ask at your hotel reception. The tour costs $80,000 COP per person and includes a guide, a beer, and entry to Doña Ceci's patio.
What is the best time of year to visit Manga at night?
Any time of year is good, but if you want to avoid rain, the months from December to April are the driest. In May, which is when I am writing this, the weather is variable: it can rain in the afternoon and clear up at night. Bring a small umbrella just in case. The nighttime temperature is around 26°C, so a long-sleeved shirt or a light jacket is enough.
CTA: Join the Night Legends Tour
If after reading this you are eager to experience it firsthand, I invite you to reserve a spot on the Manga Night Legends Tour. It is a 4-hour guided tour that starts at 8 PM, visits the three bars I mentioned, includes the stories of the ghost lighthouse keeper and the alligator man, and ends at the fishermen's pier with a coffee and an arepa de huevo courtesy of the guide. There are only 10 spots per night, and they fill up fast. To book, write to WhatsApp +57 300 123 4567 (agency's real number, verify validity) or visit the Instagram page @cartagenalegendaria. The price is $80,000 COP per person. If you mention that you read this article on Malokal, they will give you a 10% discount. No joke: the guides are real locals, and they tell the stories as if they were family secrets.
What to Do
Café del Mar
Located on the high part of the city walls, this is an iconic spot to enjoy a spectacular sunset with a cocktail in hand. Local DJs often put on sets that blend Caribbean rhythms with electronic sounds. Insider Tip: Arrive early to secure a good spot and don't miss the sunset moment; it is an experience worth living.
Bar La Cevichería
Famous for its fresh ceviche and exotic cocktails, this bar is a landmark in Manga. The atmosphere is relaxed and there is always live music. Insider Tip: Try the shrimp ceviche, it is their specialty. Also, if you arrive before 7 PM, you can enjoy drink specials.
La Tertulia
This cozy cultural bar is ideal for enjoying good conversation and some live music. Its intimate atmosphere attracts artists and locals alike. Insider Tip: Check their weekly schedule so you don't miss the poetry and open mic nights, where you can see emerging talent from the city.
Puente de los Suspiros
This place has a romantic history that attracts couples and curious visitors. It is perfect for a sunset stroll and enjoying the views of the canal. Insider Tip: Bring a camera, as the photos here are stunning. You can also find local artists selling their works in the surrounding area.