El Cabrero: Murals of resistance and siren songs
Have you ever felt that Cartagena has two faces? One, the face of immaculate walls and postcard-blue skies; the other, the one that breathes in the neighborhoods where exposed brick and street art tell stories the historic center prefers to keep quiet. El Cabrero is that second face. It's not a tourist neighborhood, although more and more curious travelers are peeking into its streets to see something no official guide promotes: murals that scream resistance, corners that smell of fried fish, and a sea that, from the boardwalk, sounds like a siren song reminding you that there was struggle here before the resorts arrived.
In May 2026, El Cabrero remains a territory of contrasts. A few blocks from the Torre del Reloj, this working-class, Afro-descendant neighborhood has become a living canvas where local artists have painted denunciations of displacement, tributes to female leaders who defended the territory, and portraits of an identity that refuses to disappear. If you come to Cartagena only for the beaches of Bocagrande, you are missing the real city. Here I'll tell you how to explore El Cabrero without falling into postcard tourism, with respect and a desire to understand.
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Historical and contextual introduction
El Cabrero wasn't always the neighborhood you see today. Founded at the beginning of the 20th century by Afro-descendant families who worked on the railroad construction and in the port, this area was a working-class refuge for decades. Its streets, laid out without urban planning, grew according to need: wooden and zinc houses, common patios where sancocho was cooked and chickens were raised, and a direct relationship with the sea that served both for fishing and escaping the heat.
But in the 1990s and 2000s, Cartagena's tourism boom began to exert pressure. El Cabrero, due to its proximity to the historic center and the bay, became attractive to investors. The displacement wasn't violent like in other parts of the country, but it was systematic: increased property taxes, the arrival of real estate projects, and land speculation pushed many families to sell or move to more distant neighborhoods like Olaya Herrera or Nelson Mandela. Those who stayed organized resistance.
Today, El Cabrero is a symbol of that struggle. Its walls are not just walls: they are archives of memory. Here, murals are not painted for decoration, but as a political act. Each stroke tells a story of dispossession, of racial pride, of women who stopped evictions with their bodies, of children who learn on the streets what school doesn't teach. And the sea, that sea that looks calm from the boardwalk, is the same one that heard the songs of the washerwomen and fishermen who gave birth to the neighborhood.
What to do in El Cabrero
Mural tour: the open-air gallery
The first thing you have to do is walk. Forget the tourist map and let the walls guide you. Most of the murals are concentrated on Calle del Cabrero, the main road connecting the neighborhood with Parque Centenario, and on side streets like Carrera 8 and Calle 39. There is no official route, but I recommend starting from Parque Centenario, right next to the Centro de Convenciones, and heading inward.
- Mural of the Afro leader: On the corner of Calle del Cabrero and Carrera 7, a huge face of a black woman with a firm gaze covers an entire facade. It is a tribute to the neighborhood's female leaders who stopped evictions in the 2000s. The work, by the collective "Pintando Resistencia", uses vibrant colors (orange, deep blue) and has a phrase at the base: "El Cabrero no se vende, se defiende".
- Denunciation of displacement: Half a block away, on Calle 40, a mural shows a wooden house being swallowed by a glass building. It is a direct critique of gentrification. The artist, a young local who signs as "Kraneo", told me he painted it after his grandmother's house was demolished to build a hotel. The work has small details, like a figure of a woman crying over the rubble.
- Portrait of memory: On Carrera 8, almost reaching the boardwalk, there is a collective mural 20 meters long featuring the faces of elderly residents of the neighborhood, with names and dates of birth. It is a visual census of those who still resist. Some have already passed away, but their faces remain there, painted with spray cans and brushes.
- The children's wall: Near the church of El Cabrero, a low wall is full of children's drawings. They are from workshops organized by the Fundación Cabrero Vivo, where children paint what they dream for their neighborhood. There are mermaids, boats, soccer players, and yes, buildings, but always with a touch of hope.
Malecón del Cabrero: the sea of those who stayed
The Malecón de El Cabrero is not like Bocagrande's, with its marble walkways and cocktail vendors. It is a stretch of concrete and rocks where locals sit to watch the sunset, fish, or share a beer. From here you see the Bay of Cartagena, the port, and in the background, the silhouettes of the buildings in the Zona Rosa. It is a perfect place to understand the neighborhood's relationship with the water: not as decoration, but as sustenance.
If you're lucky, you'll find an elderly fisherman who will tell you how they used to catch snapper and kingfish from these same rocks, before tourist boats and pollution scared the fish away. Don't take his photo without asking, and if he offers you fried fish, don't refuse it. That is the real hospitality of El Cabrero.
Parque Centenario: the lungs of the neighborhood
Parque Centenario is the natural entrance to El Cabrero. It is a large park, with shady trees, concrete benches, and a monument to the heroes of independence that seems out of place. But this is where the neighborhood breathes: on weekends there are impromptu soccer games, raspado vendors, and entire families arriving with coolers. It's not a tourist spot, but it's the best place to observe daily life.
On the side of the park, along Avenida Santander, there is a huge mural that says "Cabrero Resiste" in red and black letters. It is the most photographed, not because it's pretty, but because of its direct message. If you want the perfect Instagram photo, go early (before 9 a.m.) when the light is soft and there aren't as many people.
Where to eat or drink
In El Cabrero there are no restaurants with white tablecloths or menus in English. The food here is street food, hearth food, the kind prepared in homes that open their doors to the public. Here's what you can't miss:
- Fried fish at Doña Rita's house: At Calle 39 # 8-45, a 70-year-old woman fries fish every day from 11 a.m. until it runs out. There is no menu: you sit at a plastic table and she serves you a plate with fried snapper, coconut rice, patacones, and a tomato and onion salad. The price, in May 2026, is around $15,000 COP. They don't accept cards, only cash.
- Natural juices on the corner of Carrera 7: A juice cart run by a man named Carlos. Order a corozo juice (a typical Caribbean Colombian fruit, sour and refreshing) or zapote juice. They cost $3,000 COP. Carlos always has champeta music playing, and if he likes you, he'll tell you stories about the neighborhood while squeezing the fruits.
- Cold beer at Don Toño's store: On Calle del Cabrero, almost reaching the boardwalk, there is a corner store with a white fridge and plastic chairs outside. Don Toño sells Águila and Poker beer for $2,500 COP per bottle. Don't expect cocktails or mixology. Just a really cold beer, the sound of the sea in the background, and the chance to chat with a neighbor.
- Arepas de huevo in the morning: On weekends, a woman named Yolanda sells arepas de huevo from 6 a.m. on the corner of Carrera 8 and Calle 40. They are fried, crispy arepas filled with egg and a touch of suero costeño. They cost $4,000 COP each. They sell out fast, so get up early.
A tip: bring cash. In El Cabrero, the card machine is almost a myth. And don't expect fast service: here you eat calmly, you chat, and you enjoy the moment. If you're in a hurry, better go to a fast food place in Bocagrande.
How to get there and transportation
El Cabrero is a 10-minute walk from the Historic Center. It's easier than it seems. From the Torre del Reloj, walk north along Avenida Venezuela, cross the Puente Heredia, and you'll arrive at Parque Centenario. That's it. You don't need a taxi or bus if you're in the center.
If you're coming from Bocagrande or Laguito, take a bus that says "Centro" or "Manga". Get off on Avenida Santander, right in front of Parque Centenario. The fare is $2,300 COP. You can also call a taxi or Uber, but traffic during peak hours (7-9 a.m. and 5-7 p.m.) can be heavy. A taxi from Bocagrande costs around $10,000 COP.
Inside the neighborhood, everything is walkable. The streets are narrow, with uneven sidewalks and sometimes loose dogs (don't worry, they're harmless). I don't recommend renting a bicycle because traffic on Calle del Cabrero is chaotic, with motorcycles and cars that don't respect pedestrians much. Better to walk, so you can see the murals at your leisure.
If you come by private car, parking is difficult. There is a public parking lot at Parque Centenario, but it's usually full. Better to leave the car in the center and walk.
Local tips
- Visit during the week and in the morning: On weekends the neighborhood is full of community activities, but there is also more noise and movement. If you want to see the murals without rushing, go Tuesday to Friday between 8 a.m. and 11 a.m. The sun isn't as strong and the streets are quieter.
- Don't use flash for mural photos: The Caribbean sun already provides good light. Flash can dull the colors and also bothers the neighbors who are at their doors. Be respectful: ask permission if you are going to photograph someone.
- Talk to the neighbors: The people of El Cabrero are open, but not invasive. If you see someone sitting at their doorstep, say hello. Ask them about the mural on their block. They will tell you stories that aren't on the internet. That said, don't arrive with the attitude of a tourist who records everything. Be genuine.
- Bring water and sunscreen: The sun in Cartagena is relentless. There aren't many shops on the side streets, so bring your own water bottle. And a hat or cap, because the heat feels twice as intense between the concrete walls.
- Support the local economy: If you like a mural, ask if the artist sells prints or if the neighborhood foundation accepts donations. The Fundación Cabrero Vivo (no fixed address, but you can ask at Don Toño's store) organizes guided tours for $20,000 COP per person, and the money goes directly to art workshops for children.
- Don't buy from street vendors who aren't from the neighborhood: At Parque Centenario, craft vendors who are not from the area sometimes show up. If you want to take home a souvenir, buy it from local shops or directly from the artists. That way the money stays in the community.
Fun fact: The name "El Cabrero" comes from an old farm that was in the area, where goats were raised. It has nothing to do with horses or cowboys. The first inhabitants of the neighborhood, at the beginning of the 20th century, worked on that farm and later built their houses around it. Today, the goats are a distant memory, but the name remains as a mark of origin.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to visit El Cabrero?
Yes, it is safe during the day, especially on the main streets and near Parque Centenario. As in any neighborhood in Cartagena, avoid displaying valuables and do not walk alone on very deserted streets after 7 p.m. The neighbors are watchful and there is a strong sense of community, but it's always better to be cautious. If you come in a group or with a local guide, you won't have any problems.
Are the murals permanent or can they disappear?
Some murals have been painted on the facades of houses that were later sold or demolished, so there is no guarantee they will last forever. Others, like the "Cabrero Resiste" one at Parque Centenario, have been retouched by the artists every year. If you want to see them, don't wait too long. Gentrification is advancing and every mural that disappears is a story lost. That's why it's important to visit now and document what you see.
Can I hire a guided tour of the neighborhood?
Yes, there are community tours organized by the Fundación Cabrero Vivo. They don't have a fixed website, but you can ask at Don Toño's store or at the neighborhood church. There are also independent guides who offer urban art tours in Cartagena, but make sure they are local and that part of the money goes to the community. Avoid mass tours that just pass through quickly and don't interact with the neighbors.
Before you leave, do this: find your favorite mural, take a photo of it, upload it to Instagram with the hashtag #CabreroResiste and tag us at @malokal. It's not just a photo; it's a way of saying you saw the other Cartagena, the one that resists between the concrete and the sea. And if you come back, the neighborhood will welcome you like an acquaintance, not just another tourist.