The art you don't see on the wall: the hidden graffiti of the Walled City
If you walk through the Walled City of Cartagena, you'll probably focus on the colonial balconies, the churches, and the coconut candy vendors. But if you look up in certain alleys, or peek through half-closed doors, you'll come across something most tourists miss: a circuit of graffiti and murals that have survived for years among the stone and censorship. This is not a street art tour like those in Bogotá or Medellín. This is smaller, more hidden, and more political. As of May 2026, there are still pieces that the Mayor's Office hasn't completely erased, and there is a local artist, known only as La Negra, who has left her mark on the most difficult-to-reach walls.
Historical or contextual introduction
The historic center of Cartagena has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984. This means any intervention on its facades, including murals and graffiti, is regulated by the Ministry of Culture and the Institute of Heritage and Culture of Cartagena (IPCC). For years, painting on the wall or on houses in the Center was almost a crime. Local graffiti artists faced fines, whitewash cover-ups, and even legal proceedings. However, since the late 2000s, some less-trafficked alleys — like Callejón del Estanco del Aguardiente or Calle de la Amargura — began to fill with pieces that the residents themselves protected.
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The result is an open-air gallery that doesn't appear in official guides. Most of these works are on private property (gates, inner courtyards, side walls) or in areas where heritage surveillance is more lax. Graffiti here is not just decoration: it's a form of resistance against gentrification, the erasure of Afro-Caribbean memory, and excessive touristification. La Negra, whose real name is María del Carmen Palacios, is the most representative figure of this scene. She has been painting in Cartagena for 15 years, and her works mix Afro-Colombian iconography, social protest, and a style she calls "coastal magical realism."
What to do: the 12-point tour
This map is not official. I put it together with help from La Negra and other local artists who prefer to keep a low profile. There are exactly 12 points within the Walled City, all accessible on foot. Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and a camera with a good lens for details. The ideal light is between 6:30 and 8:30 in the morning, or between 4:00 and 5:30 in the afternoon, when the shadows of the buildings don't cover the pieces.
Point 1: Callejón del Estanco del Aguardiente (10.4230° N, 75.5512° W)
Entrance on Calle de la Factoría. Here there is a 2019 mural by La Negra showing an Afro-descendant woman wearing a vueltiao hat, surrounded by flying fish. It's one of the most photographed. The morning light hits directly on the woman's face.
Point 2: Calle de la Amargura, south side (10.4225° N, 75.5508° W)
A green wooden gate has a stencil of a winged alligator. It's the work of a collective called "Piel de Piedra." It's almost always open from 9am to 12pm because it's the entrance to a crafts workshop. If it's closed, wait for someone to come out.
Point 3: Calle del Sargento Mayor (10.4218° N, 75.5501° W)
On the side wall of a Republican-era house, there is a 4-meter-high mural depicting a palenquera carrying a stone wall. La Negra painted it in 2021 as a tribute to the women who built the wall. It's a bit faded by the sun, but the details of the hands are sharp in the afternoon.
Point 4: Calle de la Universidad, facing the Cloister (10.4235° N, 75.5518° W)
A graffiti of a black cat with sunglasses, signed by "El Gato" (another local artist). It's on the metal shutter of a candy shop. The shutter is only visible when the shop is closed (Sundays and holidays).
Point 5: Plaza de los Coches, east side (10.4222° N, 75.5505° W)
At the base of a column in the Portal de los Dulces, there is a tiny piece by La Negra: a smiling face with a turban. It measures only 15 cm. Most people walk past without seeing it. Use a macro lens.
Point 6: Calle del Coliseo (10.4215° N, 75.5498° W)
An abstract mural with warm colors on the facade of a hostel. It's unsigned, but locals say it's by a Brazilian artist who passed through in 2022. The morning light illuminates it completely.
Point 7: Calle de la Soledad, # 4-32 (10.4228° N, 75.5510° W)
On a window frame, there is a stencil of a sailboat with torn sails. It's by La Negra, from 2020. The window faces an inner courtyard, so you have to look in carefully. Ask at the shop next door if you can go in.
Point 8: Calle del Torno (10.4212° N, 75.5503° W)
A wrought iron gate has a spray-painted graffiti of an alegre drum. It's the work of the collective "Tambores de la Memoria." The afternoon light creates a strong contrast with the rusted metal.
Point 9: Calle de la Media Luna (10.4220° N, 75.5515° W)
On the wall of a closed restaurant, there is a series of 5 female faces in black and white. They are by La Negra, painted in 2023. The restaurant only opens for events, but the wall is visible from the street.
Point 10: Calle del Arzobispado (10.4210° N, 75.5500° W)
A 2-meter mural of an iguana with a flower crown. It's on the back of a church. It's hard to see because a tree partially covers it. The best time is at noon, when the sun filters through the branches.
Point 11: Calle de la Merced (10.4223° N, 75.5513° W)
At the base of a corner column, there is a small winged heart with the phrase "Vuela libre" (Fly free). It's by La Negra, from 2018. It's very worn, but the signature is still readable.
Point 12: Callejón de los Estribos (10.4217° N, 75.5509° W)
The final point. A wooden gate has a complete mural by La Negra: an Afro woman with a chef's hat, surrounded by tropical fruits and fish. It's from 2022 and in excellent condition. The gate leads to a private house, but the owners allow photos if you ring the bell and explain you're a photographer.
Where to eat or drink
After the tour, you'll need some food and good hydration. The heat in Cartagena is relentless, especially between 11am and 3pm. Here are options near the map points, all within the Walled City.
La Mulata (Calle del Sargento Mayor, near point 3)
A small restaurant with a daily menu. They offer rice with coconut, fried fish, and patacones. Dishes cost between $22,000 and $30,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026). Open Monday to Saturday, 11am-8pm. The owner is a friend of La Negra and has photos of her murals on the wall.
Sweets from Plaza de los Coches (point 5)
It's not a restaurant, but the vendors in the square offer cocadas, alegrías, and enyucados. A cocada costs $3,000 COP. It's ideal for a quick bite while looking for La Negra's small graffiti.
Café del Centro (Calle de la Universidad, near point 4)
An air-conditioned café. They sell black coffee ($2,000 COP), coffee with milk ($5,000 COP), and empanadas ($3,000 COP each). Open from 7am to 7pm. They have an interior mural by a local artist.
El Boliche (Calle de la Amargura, point 2)
A neighborhood bar that also serves food. Beers are $5,000 COP and the menu includes carimañolas and arepas de huevo. Open from 5pm to 11pm. It's a good place to end the tour and talk to locals about street art.
How to get there and transportation
The Walled City is compact. All map points are less than a 20-minute walk from each other. If you're coming from outside the historic center, you can use these means:
- On foot from the Center: If you're already in the Walled City, just walk. Use Google Maps with the coordinates I gave you.
- Transcaribe: The articulated bus system has stops on Avenida Santander, a 5-minute walk from the wall. The fare is $2,500 COP (2026). Get off at the "Centro" station.
- Taxi: From Bocagrande or Getsemaní, a taxi costs between $8,000 and $12,000 COP. Make sure to agree on the price before getting in.
- Walking from Getsemaní: If you're staying in Getsemaní, cross the Puente Román and enter the Walled City via Calle del Sargento Mayor. It's a 10-minute walk.
I don't recommend biking inside the wall because the streets are cobblestone and narrow, and pedestrian traffic is heavy.
Local tips
- Light hours: The best photos are taken between 6:30 and 8:30 am, or between 4:00 and 5:30 pm. The shadows of the colonial buildings are long and can ruin a shot at noon.
- Ask for permission: Many graffiti are on gates of private houses. If you see a piece behind a gate or at an entrance, ring the bell and explain you're a photographer. The owners are usually friendly, especially if you mention La Negra.
- Don't use flash: In narrow alleys, flash can create reflections on the whitewashed walls. Better to use a small tripod and slow shutter speeds.
- Bring water: The heat in Cartagena is unforgiving. Buy a 1.5-liter bottle of water at any store for $2,500 COP.
- Avoid peak sun hours: Between 11am and 3pm, the streets are empty and the sun is brutal. Use the time to have lunch or rest at a café.
- Respect the censorship: Some graffiti have been partially erased by the Mayor's Office. Don't try to restore them or paint over them. Local artists will thank you.
- Connect with La Negra: If you want to learn more about her work, search for "La Negra Cartagena" on social media. She doesn't have a website, but sometimes she gives informal tours on Saturday mornings. Ask at Café del Centro if they have her contact.
Frequently asked questions
Is it legal to take photos of the graffiti on the wall?
Yes, as long as you don't enter private property without permission. Graffiti in public spaces (streets, squares, facades visible from the street) are legal to photograph. If the mural is on a house gate, ask the owner for permission. Most owners are proud to have works by La Negra and will let you take photos.
Why are there so few graffiti in the historic center?
Because of heritage regulations. The Walled City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and any intervention on the facades requires permission from the Institute of Heritage and Culture. Most of the graffiti you see survive because they are on private property (gates, inner courtyards) or in less-monitored alleys. La Negra and other artists have been fined several times, but they continue to paint in areas where residents protect them.
Where can I see more works by La Negra outside the center?
La Negra has also painted in Getsemaní, specifically in Callejón del Ángel and on Calle de la Media Luna (the one in Getsemaní, not the one in the center). She also has a large mural in the La Matuna neighborhood, on the facade of the old EPS building. To get there, walk 10 minutes east from the Torre del Reloj. It's a 6-meter mural of an Afro woman with a wide-brimmed hat.
Download the PDF map for your self-guided tour: This map includes the exact coordinates of the 12 points, reference photos of each piece, and optimal light hours. Write to us through the contact form on malokal.com and we'll send it to you for free. Put in the subject: "Mapa graffiti muralla".