Introduction: The Cartagena You Don't See, the One You Walk On
If you walk through the walled center of Cartagena, you are probably standing on centuries of trash. Yes, you read that right. The floors of the city's most photographed plazas were not always clean cobblestones and palm trees. During the 17th century, these spaces were dumps, lime deposits, construction debris sites, and even makeshift cemeteries. Colonial cartographers called them "archaeological dumps" because they literally buried history beneath the waste. But today, June 2026, those plazas are the secret map of a Cartagena that few tour guides dare to tell. Here I will show you five of those dumps that became plazas, and how to recognize the traces of what they really were.
Plaza de los Coches: The Slave Market That Is Now a Selfie Central
Plaza de los Coches is the most famous in Cartagena. All tourists take photos in front of the Torre del Reloj or buy vueltiao hats in the portales. But what almost no one knows is that this place functioned as the city's main slave market during the 17th and 18th centuries. Chroniclers of the time describe that organic garbage, animal remains, and waste from ships arriving at the port accumulated there. The ground was a muddy quagmire of waste that slave traders used as a sales platform.
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Archaeologists have found fragments of chains, cattle bones, and broken ceramics dating back to 1620. The plaza was originally called "Plaza del Mercado" or "Plaza de la Yerba," but the name "Coches" comes from the carriages that parked there in the 19th century. The irony is that the same ground you now walk on in sandals while taking photos was the epicenter of the largest human trafficking operation in the colonial Caribbean. To recognize it, look at the floor ventilation grilles: many have engravings of slave ships that local guides omit. A fun fact: in 2024, an excavation to repair pipes found a well with over 300 Spanish copper coins, probably fallen from buyers' pockets.
Address: In front of the Torre del Reloj, Bocagrande. Price: Free. Hours: 24 hours, but avoid after 10 pm if you don't want persistent vendors.
How to Identify the Original Dump
Look for the dark stains on the cobblestone near the corner with Calle del Sargento. They are residues of animal fat that have seeped in for centuries. Locals call that area "the port's dumping ground."
Plaza de la Aduana: The Inquisition's Dump That Reveals a Secret Shipyard
Plaza de la Aduana, right next to the Palacio de la Inquisición, looks like a quiet space with its statue of Christopher Columbus. But during the 17th century, it was the official dump of the ecclesiastical courts. The inquisitors threw "impure" objects there: clothes of heretics, forbidden books, bones of the executed, and even animal remains used in Santeria rituals. Most strikingly, beneath that layer of religious garbage, archaeologists discovered in 2019 the remains of a secret 16th-century shipyard, where ships were built for the Spanish Armada without the Crown's permission.
The excavations found cedar wood, bronze nails, and a three-meter anchor buried just one meter deep. During the colonial period, shipyard workers threw wood and metal waste in the same place, creating a layer of debris that the Inquisition later used to hide its own garbage. Today, the plaza is a meeting point for history tours, but few know there is a ghost ship beneath their feet. If you visit, walk to the northeastern corner, where the ground has a texture change: that was the ship launching ramp.
Address: Calle de la Inquisición, Centro Histórico. Price: Free entry to the plaza. Hours: Open all day, but the Palacio de la Inquisición closes at 5 pm.
Plaza San Diego: The Jesuit Hospital's Medicine Dump That Is Now an Ice Cream Zone
Plaza San Diego is the locals' favorite for eating coconut ice cream and watching the sunset. But in the 17th century, this place was the dump of the Hospital Real de San Sebastián, run by the Jesuits. Used bandages, broken glass jars, amputation remains, and expired medicines were discarded there. Archaeologists have found over 200 ceramic jars with residues of mercury, opium, and quinine, used to treat yellow fever and syphilis.
The most macabre thing is that the Jesuits also buried patients who died without confession there, in unmarked mass graves. During a renovation in 2022, bone remains of at least 30 people were found, with marks of rudimentary autopsies. The plaza was named "San Diego" after the nearby convent of the same name, but colonial cartographers labeled it "the sick people's dumping ground." Today, the smell of mango ice cream and children's laughter hide that past. To feel it, look for the metal plaque on the floor near the church: it says "Here lie the forgotten of the hospital."
Address: Calle del Curato, San Diego. Price: Free. Hours: Always open, but the cheapest ice creams are sold after 4 pm.
Plaza de la Merced: The Lime Pit That Buried the Pirate Arsenal
Plaza de la Merced is one of the least visited, hidden among the narrow streets of the San Diego neighborhood. But it is perhaps the most fascinating of all. During the 17th century, it functioned as a lime pit where bones and shells were processed to make mortar, the colonial cement. But it was also the place where pirates buried their arsenal when captured. In 1673, after Francis Drake's attack, the Spanish confiscated 14 cannons, gunpowder, and swords, and threw them into this pit so the lime would dissolve them.
Archaeologists found in 2021 fragments of cast iron that match 16th-century English cannons. The plaza has a central pit that is now covered with a grate, but if you peek, you can see remains of seashells mixed with lime. Locals say that on full moon nights you can hear metallic clanking, though it is probably the wind. Most practically: it is the perfect place to sit and read a book, because almost no one goes. Bring your own 18th-century map (you can download it in the CTA at the end) and compare it with the current layout of the plaza.
Address: Calle de la Merced, between San Diego and Getsemaní. Price: Free. Hours: Quiet all day, but no nighttime lighting.
How to Do a Self-Guided Tour of Plazas with 18th-Century Maps
If you want to live the full experience of these secret plazas, you don't need an expensive guide. You just need a historical map of Cartagena from 1770, which you can download for free from the Archivo General de Indias website (link at the end). I recommend this self-guided tour:
- Starting point: Plaza de los Coches, at 7 am (before the vendors arrive). Bring the printed map and look for the mark "Mercado de Negros."
- Second stop: Walk 5 minutes to Plaza de la Aduana. On the map, look for the symbol of a small boat: that is the secret shipyard.
- Third stop: Go up Calle del Curato to Plaza San Diego. The map calls it "Hospital Real."
- Fourth stop: From San Diego, take Calle de la Merced (5 minutes on foot). The map marks a circle with a cross: the lime pit.
- Optional fifth stop: End at Plaza de los Mártires, which I did not include in the list but was also a corpse dump during the Independence.
Bring water, repellent, and a notebook to note the differences between the old map and the current city. You will see that many streets have changed names, but the plazas remain in the same place. If you want to delve deeper, the Museo Histórico de Cartagena has a temporary exhibition on colonial dumps until December 2026.
Local Tips for Your Archaeological Dump Tour
- Ideal time: Early morning (6 am to 9 am) or late afternoon (4 pm to 6 pm). Avoid noon; the sun in Cartagena is relentless and the plazas have no shade.
- Footwear: Wear closed-toe shoes. Cobblestones can be loose and in some areas there are sharp shell remains.
- Hydration: Buy water from local stores, not tourist stalls. It costs half (around 2,000 COP in June 2026).
- Don't touch the grates: In Plaza de la Merced, the pit grate is rusty and may have sharp edges. Also, don't throw coins; archaeologists are still working there.
- Bring your own map: Digital maps on your phone do not show colonial names. Download the PDF from the Archivo General de Indias before you go out.
- Language: If you don't speak Spanish, look for local guides with blue vests in Plaza de los Coches. Ask about "the 17th-century dumps" and they will look at you strangely, but some know the story.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Walk Through These Plazas at Night?
The plazas in the historic center are relatively safe until 10 pm, but Plaza de la Merced and Plaza San Diego have less lighting and less pedestrian traffic after sunset. If you go at night, go in a group and avoid carrying visible valuables. Plaza de los Coches and Plaza de la Aduana have private security until 11 pm.
Are There Guided Tours Specializing in Archaeological Dumps?
There are no commercial tours that focus exclusively on this topic, but some independent guides offer "Hidden Cartagena" routes that include these plazas. You can ask at the tourism office in Plaza de la Aduana (open from 9 am to 5 pm) or search on social media for "Cartagena Arqueológica," a local collective that does themed walks every first Saturday of the month.
How Much Does It Cost to Download the 18th-Century Map?
The map from the Archivo General de Indias is free and available in digital format on their website. You just need to register with an email. If you don't have internet access in Cartagena, you can print it at any internet café in the center for about 2,000 COP per page. I recommend printing two copies in case they get wet from sweat or rain.
CTA: Download the digital map with the exact points of the plazas and their hidden legends from the link you will find in the description of this article. It includes GPS coordinates, colonial names, and excavation data up to 2025. It's free and will save you hours of research.
What to Do
Plaza de San Pedro Claver
Visiting Plaza de San Pedro Claver is an experience that goes beyond architecture. This space, named after the saint who advocated for the rights of slaves, has a deep history. Here, you can observe the church that houses Claver's tomb, but also take time to enjoy the street artists who often perform. Insider Tip: Sit on one of the benches and listen to the stories that the artisan vendors tell about their products; each piece has a story worth discovering.
Plaza de la Aduana
Plaza de la Aduana is one of the most emblematic spots in Cartagena. Originally, this place was the commercial center of the viceroyalty. Today, you can enjoy the view of the Palacio de la Inquisición and the Puente de los Enamorados. Insider Tip: Visit the plaza at sunset, when the golden light highlights the beauty of the place. Bring a camera, as the landscape is spectacular and there is always a perfect corner to capture the essence of Cartagena.
Plaza de Santo Domingo
Known for its vibrant atmosphere, Plaza de Santo Domingo is an ideal place to relax and enjoy local cuisine. The famous sculptor Fernando Botero left his mark here with the sculpture of La Gorda Gertrudis. Insider Tip: Try an "arequipe" from the local ice cream shop while you sit in the plaza. The combination of art and gastronomy creates a unique experience you cannot miss.
Plaza de la Trinidad
In Getsemaní, Plaza de la Trinidad has become a meeting place for locals and tourists. This space is perfect for feeling Cartagena life. You will often find live music and cultural events. Insider Tip: Go on a Sunday afternoon, when community activities take place and children enjoy games and music. It is an excellent time to interact with the neighborhood's inhabitants.
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Where to Eat or Drink
La Cevichería
This iconic place is known for its delicious ceviche, but what many don't know is that you can also enjoy a vibrant atmosphere full of local music here. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the shrimp ceviche, and pair it with a cold beer for an authentic experience.
Café del Mar
Located on the city walls, this café offers one of the best views of the city at sunset. In addition to its cocktails, it is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the sea breeze. Insider Tip: Arrive early to get a good spot on the terrace and enjoy a house cocktail while you watch the sun sink into the horizon.
Restaurante 1621
This fine dining restaurant is located in the Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara and offers a unique gastronomic experience with a fusion of Caribbean and French flavors. Insider Tip: Take advantage of the tasting menu to try several dishes, but book in advance, as it fills up quickly.
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