Versalles: The Best Kept Secret of Italian Gastronomy

Introduction: Why Does Versalles Smell Like Pizza and Pasta?

If you walk along Calle 5 with Avenida 3 Norte in Cali, the air changes. It's not the smell of coffee or the smog from buses: it's garlic, basil, and melted cheese. Welcome to Versalles, a neighborhood that doesn't appear in traditional tourist guides but has been the heart of the Italian community in the city since the 1950s. While most tourists crowd into the Zona Rosa or Parque del Perro, true foodies know that the most authentic pasta in Cali is cooked here. And it's no coincidence: Versalles' history is tied to Italian migration, people who arrived fleeing the post-war period and found a paradise in the Valle del Cauca to cultivate their culinary traditions.

Today, in May 2026, the neighborhood remains an open secret. Its restaurants don't have flashy social media or lines of influencers, but they keep recipes passed down from grandparents to grandchildren. If you come to Cali and want to eat pasta that transports you to Naples without leaving Colombia, Versalles is your must-stop destination.

What to Do in Versalles

Versalles is not a neighborhood of nightclubs or designer stores. Its appeal is more subtle: gastronomy, history, and a traditional neighborhood atmosphere. Here's how to make the most of it.

Gastronomic Tour of the 5 Historic Restaurants

The Italian community in Cali has been concentrated in this neighborhood since the 1960s. These five places have survived the passage of time and maintain the essence:

• La Trattoria di Napoli – Cra 4 #5-42. Open since 1972. Its star dish is the classic lasagna (made with fresh pasta and artisanal béchamel). The current owner, Marco Rinaldi, is the founder's grandson and still kneads the pasta by hand on Thursdays. Prices: main courses between $28,000 and $45,000 COP.
• Pizzeria San Gennaro – Calle 5 #3-15. Specializing in wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. The dough ferments for 48 hours. The most requested: Margherita DOP with imported buffalo mozzarella. Prices: pizzas from $22,000 COP. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-10pm.
• Il Forno di Versalles – Avenida 3N #4-80. More than a restaurant, it's a bakery-pastry shop open from 6am. Its artisanal panettone (only in December) is legendary, but year-round they sell focaccia, grissini, and cannoli. The secret: they use "00" flour imported directly from Naples, something almost no other place in Cali does.
• Ristorante Da Vinci – Cra 5 #4-60. A classic for romantic dinners. The risotto ai funghi porcini is their signature dish. Chef Giovanni Lombardi works with dried mushrooms brought from Italy. Prices: between $35,000 and $60,000 COP. Recommendation: reserve 48 hours in advance.
• La Pasta Fresca – Calle 4N #3-22. A small, almost hidden place where they only serve pasta of the day (tagliatelle, pappardelle, gnocchi). The owner, Pietro, is a Sicilian who arrived in 1985 and never left. They have no fixed menu: they ask what you want and prepare it. Prices: from $18,000 COP. Cash or Nequi.

A curious fact: at Il Forno di Versalles, the flour they use arrives in containers from the port of Naples every three months. It's the only bakery in the entire Valle del Cauca that maintains this direct supply chain. If you ask, the baker will show you the sacks with the original seal.

The Sunday Ritual: Family Lunch in Versalles

Sundays in Versalles are sacred. Italo-Caleño families (and those who have joined the tradition) gather for the family lunch. The protocol is simple: arrive between 12:30pm and 1pm, order a bottle of red wine (restaurants offer Chilean and Argentine options, but some have Italian wines like a basic Chianti), and share a bruschetta as a starter. Then comes the pasta, followed by a second course (ossobuco or chicken cacciatore). Dessert is tiramisu or panna cotta. This ritual is so ingrained that many restaurants have special Sunday menus with fixed prices ranging from $45,000 to $70,000 COP per person, including a non-alcoholic drink.

If you're a tourist, arriving on a Sunday without a reservation is nearly impossible. Call at least three days in advance. Locals know that Ristorante Da Vinci and La Trattoria di Napoli are the busiest. A more relaxed alternative is La Pasta Fresca, where the atmosphere is more informal and you can chat with Pietro while he cooks.

Beyond Food: What Else to Do in Versalles

It's not all pasta. The neighborhood has a small park, Parque de Versalles (between Calles 4 and 5 with Carrera 4), where on weekends there's a craft and organic produce market. There's also a Catholic church, Parroquia San Antonio de Padua, dating from 1965 with an altar donated by the Italian community. If you like architecture, walk along Avenida 3 Norte: you'll see Republican-style houses with Italian influence, wrought-iron balconies, and front gardens.

Where to Eat or Drink in Versalles

In addition to the historic restaurants, there are options for a quick bite or a traditional coffee.

Coffee Shops and Desserts

• Café Versalles – Cra 4 #5-10. A neighborhood café serving Italian espresso and pastries (facturas) filled with pastry cream. Open from 7am. An American coffee costs $3,500 COP.
• Gelateria Bellavita – Calle 5 #3-50. Artisanal ice cream with flavors like stracciatella, pistachio (imported), and limoncello. The owner, an Italian from Genoa, makes the base with fresh local milk. Prices: small cone $8,000 COP.

Bars for a Drink

Versalles is not famous for its nightlife, but there are two places to have a drink after dinner:

• Bar La Bodeguita – Cra 3 #4-30. A neighborhood bar with live music on Fridays and Saturdays (trova and boleros). They serve Chilean red wine and local craft beer. Prices: glass of wine from $12,000 COP.
• Enoteca Da Marco – Avenida 3N #4-50. A small place selling Italian wines by the glass or bottle. They have a selection of 20 labels, from a basic Prosecco ($18,000 COP per glass) to a Barolo ($45,000 COP per glass). Open Thursday to Saturday, 6pm-11pm.

How to Get to Versalles and Transportation

Versalles is located in northern Cali, near the historic center. Getting there is easy:

• By taxi or Uber: From downtown (Plaza de Cayzedo) it's 10 minutes and costs between $8,000 and $12,000 COP. From the south (Ciudad Jardín neighborhood) it's 25-30 minutes, about $20,000 COP.
• By bus: Routes that run along Avenida 3 Norte are the P10 (from downtown to the Terminal) and the T57 (connecting with the Granada neighborhood). The fare is $2,800 COP (2026). Get off at the Calle 5 with Avenida 3N stop.
• By private car: The neighborhood has street parking, but it fills up on weekends. There are two private parking lots: one on Cra 4 with Calle 5 (rate $4,000 COP per hour) and another on Avenida 3N with Calle 4 ($3,000 COP per hour).
• Walking: If you're staying downtown or in Granada, you can walk there in 20 minutes. It's a safe walk during the day, but at night it's better to take a taxi.

Local Tips for Enjoying Versalles

These tips will save you misunderstandings and make you feel like a local:

• Book in advance: The historic restaurants have few tables. Call at least two days ahead, especially if you're in a group of more than 4 people. On Sundays, book a week in advance.
• Bring cash: Although most accept cards, La Pasta Fresca and Il Forno di Versalles only accept cash or Nequi. There's a Bancolombia ATM on Cra 4 with Calle 5, but it sometimes runs out of money.
• Ask for the dish of the day: At La Trattoria di Napoli and Ristorante Da Vinci, the menu changes based on fresh ingredients. Don't be afraid to ask the chef for a recommendation.
• Avoid peak hours: Lunch (12:30pm-2pm) and dinner (7pm-9pm) are the busiest times. If you want peace and quiet, arrive at 11:30am or 3pm.
• Don't leave without trying the tiramisu: At La Trattoria di Napoli they make it with imported mascarpone and Colombian coffee. It's the most popular dessert.
• Share your photo: If you find a dish you love, post it on Instagram tagging @MalokalCali with the hashtag #VersallesCali. Restaurant owners sometimes share the best photos on their accounts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is It Safe to Walk Around Versalles at Night?

Yes, it's a quiet residential neighborhood. The main streets (Avenida 3N, Cra 4, and Calle 5) are well-lit and have activity until 10pm due to the restaurants. However, avoid dark side streets and don't leave valuables visible in your car. As in any area of Cali, use common sense.

Are There Vegetarian or Vegan Options at These Restaurants?

Some do. La Pasta Fresca can prepare pasta without cheese or meat if you request it in advance. Ristorante Da Vinci has a mushroom risotto that is naturally vegetarian. For vegan options, the easiest is to order a pizza without cheese at Pizzeria San Gennaro (they have tomato sauce and vegetables). But don't expect an extensive vegan menu: traditional Italian cooking is heavy on dairy and eggs.

How Much Does a Full Meal Cost on Average in Versalles?

It depends on the restaurant. At La Pasta Fresca you can spend $18,000 COP on a plate of pasta and water. At Ristorante Da Vinci, a dinner with starter, main course, dessert, and a glass of wine is around $70,000-$90,000 COP per person. On average, a full meal in Versalles costs between $30,000 and $60,000 COP, making it more affordable than the Zona Rosa (where similar dishes cost $50,000-$80,000 COP).