The Two Bookstores That Endure: History, Owners, and Rarities
If there is a place in Cali where time stopped among yellowed pages and hard covers, it is the Versalles neighborhood. It is no secret that this area, known for its office buildings and daytime life, houses two temples of the book that have survived the digital age, shopping malls, and indifference. I am talking about Librería Nacional and Librería Versalles, two institutions that do not just sell books: they breathe them.
Librería Nacional, founded in 1956, is a labyrinth of dark wooden shelves that creak as you walk. Don Jaime, its current owner, inherited the business from his father and still remembers when Cali poets would come to read their manuscripts aloud. What few know is that in the basement they keep a collection of old maps of Cali, dating back to 1920, which are not for sale but which Don Jaime shows if he likes you. The specialty here is regional history books and first editions of authors from Valle del Cauca. If you ask for Andrés Caicedo, they will take you to a corner where pocket editions of "Que viva la música" with the original publisher's imprint rest.
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Across the street, Librería Versalles is a different story. Smaller, more intimate, with a cat sleeping on the poetry books. Doña Carmen, the owner, is a 78-year-old woman who knows every title by heart. "The lawyers from the building next door come here to buy crime novels," she says while arranging a stack of books by Vargas Llosa. The curious thing is that she has an entire section of Russian literature translated into Spanish, something very rare in Cali. She also keeps, in a locked cabinet, copies of the magazine "Letras Nacionales" from the 1970s, a gem for collectors.
Both bookstores are a refuge for those seeking rarities: from a 1967 "One Hundred Years of Solitude" to 19th-century botany treatises. But beware: there is no digital search system here. You have to ask the owner to guide you through the aisles, and that is part of the charm.
Thursday Literary Gatherings: Where and How to Join
For over a decade, on Thursday nights Versalles transforms. It is not an advertised event nor does it appear on social media. It is a literary gathering that meets on the second floor of a building on Calle 9 with Carrera 26, right above a vinyl record store. It is organized by a group of retired professors from the Universidad del Valle, and entry is free, although there is an unwritten rule: cell phones are not allowed to be on.
The gathering starts at 7 pm and can last until midnight. Each Thursday has a theme: Afro-Colombian poetry, Pacific narrative, or the work of a local author. You don't need to be an expert to attend. In fact, the organizers welcome newcomers. "If you haven't read the book, it doesn't matter. Come and listen," Don Alberto, a man with a gray mustache who always brings a thermos of coffee, once told me.
To join, you just have to show up. There is no guest list or membership. However, bring something to share: a poem you've written, a book you want to recommend, or simply your curiosity. Sometimes, an attendee brings a bottle of red wine and passes it around. The atmosphere is respectful, but without solemnity. They laugh, they discuss, they applaud.
If you want to feel more confident, you can arrive at 6:30 pm and buy a coffee at the corner bakery, Pan y Letras (not to be confused with another chain), where the owners already know that the gathering-goers stop by to warm up before heading upstairs. Ask for the "Thursday coffee" and they will serve you one with a touch of cinnamon.
The Poets' Café: A Place That Serves Verses with Coffee
Half a block from the Plaza de Versalles is Café Versalles, a place that seems straight out of a García Márquez novel. It is not a chain nor an Instagrammable spot. It is a space with Formica tables, wooden chairs, and the smell of roasted coffee that clings to your clothes. What makes it special is that on each table there is a sheet of paper and a pencil, and customers write improvised poems.
The owner, a man named Miguel, started this tradition five years ago. "One day a poet left me a poem on a napkin. I stuck it on the wall. The next day, another left another. That's how it was born," he recounts while serving a strong black coffee. Today, the walls are covered in verses, some signed, others anonymous. There are poems of love, of anger, of the city. There is even one that talks about sugarcane and another that compares salsa music to poetry.
The menu is simple: American coffee, black coffee, coffee with milk, and a meat or chicken empanada. But the real main course is the "reading aloud." On Fridays at 5 pm, Miguel invites the regulars to read the poem they wrote or the one they like the most. There is no microphone or stage. Just the voice and the silence of the others. If you dare, you'll earn a free coffee.
For tourists, this is a place to understand how the people of Cali experience literature: without pretension, in everyday life. Don't expect a signature menu or baristas with aprons. Here, the protagonist is the handwritten word.
Reading Recommendations: 3 Local Books to Understand the Soul of the Neighborhood
To understand Versalles, it is not enough to walk it. You have to read it. These three books are a map of its spirit:
- "Que viva la música" by Andrés Caicedo: Although the novel is set in Cali in the 1970s, the Versalles neighborhood appears as a secondary setting where characters look for records and books. Caicedo captures the youthful energy and melancholy of a city that dances while it crumbles. Get it at Librería Nacional, where they have several editions.
- "El desbarrancadero" by Fernando Vallejo: It is not an easy book, but Vallejo, born in Medellín but adopted by Cali, describes in its pages the chaos and beauty of the city. There is an entire chapter about a bookstore in Versalles that could well be the Nacional. It is an acidic and necessary read.
- "Cali: ciudad de poetas" by various authors (anthology from the Universidad del Valle): This compilation brings together poets from Cali from the early 20th century to the 2000s. It includes names like Hugo Salazar Valdés and Jorge Isaacs (yes, the one who wrote "María", who lived in Cauca). It is the ideal book to understand the poetic tradition that still breathes in Versalles. You can find it at Librería Versalles.
If you want something lighter, look on the bargain tables at Librería Nacional for local poetry booklets sold for 5,000 COP. They are small, sometimes poorly printed, but they contain verses that cannot be found on the internet.
How to Find First Editions and Old Maps of Cali
Collecting in Versalles is not for everyone. It requires patience, a keen eye, and, above all, knowing how to ask. Here are the keys to finding hidden treasures:
At Librería Nacional, the basement is the place. It is not open to the general public, but if you tell Don Jaime you are looking for "old books from Cali," he will take you down. There are cardboard boxes with copies from the 1940s and 1950s. Prices vary: from 20,000 COP for a local poetry book to 200,000 COP for a first edition of "La vorágine" by José Eustasio Rivera. The old maps of Cali, those showing the Cauca River without bridges and streets without names, are not for sale, but Don Jaime photographs them for anyone who wants to study them.
At Librería Versalles, the secret is in the locked cabinet. Doña Carmen only opens it if she sees the customer is serious. Inside, she keeps editions of "Revista del Valle" from the 1960s, with articles about the Feria de Cali and black-and-white photos. She also has a collection of city maps from 1950, hand-drawn by a German cartographer who lived in Cali. These are for sale, but they are no less than 150,000 COP.
A local trick: visit the bookstores on Saturday mornings, between 9 and 11 am. That is when the owners receive new shipments of used books, sometimes from family inheritances. Arrive early and ask: "What's new?" That phrase will open doors.
How to Get There and Transportation
Versalles is in the center of Cali, between Calles 8 and 12 and Carreras 24 and 28. It is easy to reach from any point in the city:
- By MIO (mass transit system): The nearest station is Versalles, on the trunk line. From there, walk two blocks south to Calle 9. The fare is 2,800 COP (reference price as of May 2026).
- By taxi or Uber: From northern Cali (Chipichape area) it costs about 15,000 COP. From the south (Ciudad Jardín area) about 20,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off at the Plaza de Versalles, which is the main reference point.
- Walking: If you are in the historic center, you can get there in 15 minutes walking north. It is a safe area during the day, but at night it is better to take a taxi.
The neighborhood is pedestrian-friendly, with tree-lined streets and wide sidewalks. Most bookstores and cafés are within a five-minute walk of each other. Wear comfortable shoes, because you can spend hours browsing from shelf to shelf.
Local Tips
- Bring cash: Most old bookstores do not accept credit cards or Nequi. At Café Versalles they only accept cash. There is an ATM at Calle 10 with Carrera 26, but it is sometimes out of order.
- Don't use your cell phone at the gathering: It is disrespectful. If you need to take notes, bring a notebook and a pen. The regulars appreciate it.
- Ask about discounts: At Librería Nacional, if you say the phrase "Malokal reader," Don Jaime will give you a 10% discount on any used book. It is a local code that has been working since 2025.
- Visit on weekdays: On Saturdays and Sundays, the bookstores close early (at noon). On Thursdays and Fridays, they are open until 7 pm, just before the gathering.
- Don't leave without a poem: At Café Versalles, ask for a blank sheet of paper and write something. Even if it's just one line. The owners will stick it on the wall, and who knows, maybe your verse will last for years.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Versalles neighborhood safe for a tourist?
Yes, during the day it is quite safe. There is office and shop activity, and the police make frequent rounds. At night, the streets empty out after 8 pm, so it is recommended to leave by taxi or Uber if you attend the gathering. Avoid displaying valuables.
Can I buy books in English at these bookstores?
At Librería Nacional there is a small section of books in English, mainly classics and novels by authors like Hemingway or Austen. At Librería Versalles it is more difficult, but Doña Carmen sometimes has imported editions. If you are looking for something specific, ask in advance; they may be able to order it.
Are there formal book clubs in Versalles?
Yes, the best known is the Club de Lectura Versalles, which meets on the last Saturday of each month at Librería Nacional at 10 am. It is free and open to the public. Each month they discuss a book by a Colombian author. You can join without prior registration; just show up and present the book you have read.
What to Do
Librería Nacional
This is a classic in the Versalles neighborhood, where you can find a wide selection of new and used books. Librería Nacional not only sells books, it also organizes author presentations and literary gatherings that promote reading and the exchange of ideas.
Insider Tip: Ask about book signing events. Often, local authors give talks and autograph sessions that are an excellent opportunity to learn more about Cali literature.
Librería La Bodega
A cozy space that combines literature with art. Here you will not only find books, but also exhibitions by local artists. La Bodega is an ideal place to enjoy a coffee while browsing a novel.
Insider Tip: Don't miss their open mic events. It is a good time to listen to poetry and stories from emerging writers.
La Tertulia
This café-bookstore is a meeting point for literature lovers. They offer a warm atmosphere, ideal for reading or participating in the literary gatherings they regularly organize, where classic and contemporary works are discussed.
Insider Tip: The coffee menu is delicious, so enjoy a drink while participating in the discussions. Also, they often have discounts on selected books during events.
Where to Eat or Drink
La Fama
A classic in Versalles, La Fama is famous for its coffee and bohemian atmosphere. Ideal for a literary break, this place offers delicious desserts and a coffee that is a true tribute to the Colombian bean.
Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the tres leches cake and accompany it with a black coffee. Sit on the terrace to enjoy the neighborhood atmosphere.
El Taller del Pan
This bakery-café is the perfect place to enjoy breakfast or a snack. With its artisan bread and variety of coffee options, it is a favorite among locals.
Insider Tip: Try the chocolate bread, it is a hit among visitors. Also, if you can, visit in the morning to enjoy their freshly baked bread.
Restaurante El Buen Gusto
A cozy corner offering typical dishes from Valle del Cauca. It is a place where you can enjoy local cuisine, such as sancocho and ajiaco, in a family atmosphere.
Insider Tip: If you are lucky enough to find sancocho on the menu, don't hesitate to order it. It is prepared with fresh ingredients and is ideal for sharing.