Wednesday Ciclovía: The Secret of Versalles

Historical or contextual introduction

In northern Cali, among office buildings and shopping centers that seem to sleep until 9 in the morning, there is a secret that few tourists know and many locals guard like a treasure: the Wednesday ciclovía in Versalles. It doesn't appear on Google Maps, it has no official signage, and you won't find it in the city's guides. It is passed by word of mouth, like an oral tradition that started in the 1980s, when a group of cyclists from the neighborhood decided to take over the empty Wednesday morning streets. Today, in May 2026, it remains the favorite route for those who know that Cali traffic is relentless, but that between 6 and 9 in the morning, Versalles transforms into a paradise on wheels.

Versalles is not just any neighborhood. It is the city's financial epicenter, with glass towers, fast-food restaurants, and a nightlife that attracts thousands. But in the early morning, when the offices are empty and the traffic lights blink yellow, the asphalt belongs to the cyclists. The route I'm about to tell you about is not official, but it is real. It is ridden by mothers taking their kids to school, delivery workers getting their exercise, and adventurous tourists who have heard the rumor. If you are reading this, you are already in the loop.

What to do

The exact map: from Calle 5ta with Carrera 34 to Carrera 7ma

The route starts at the intersection of Calle 5ta and Carrera 34, right in front of the Chamber of Commerce building. There is no sign announcing it, but on Wednesdays at 6:00 a.m. you will see a group of cyclists gathered on the corner. From there, you take Calle 5ta eastbound, heading towards Carrera 7ma. The route is approximately 2 kilometers long, but it is not flat: there is a gentle climb from Calle 5ta to Carrera 7ma, ideal for warming up your legs.

The schedule is strict: from 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m. After 9, cars start filling the streets and the magic fades. The route is not marked on the ground, but locals know to stay in the right lane and respect red lights, even if they are empty. On Wednesdays, the Traffic Police are usually present on Carrera 34, so don't get too comfortable.

The endpoint is Carrera 7ma with Calle 26, near Parque de la 7ma. There you can decide whether to return along the same route or continue south. Many cyclists take the opportunity to go to Avenida 3N and then come back. But the real secret lies in the three mandatory stops I'm about to tell you about.

Stop 1: Coffee at 'La Bicicletería'

On Carrera 34 with Calle 5ta, half a block from the starting point, is 'La Bicicletería'. It's not a place with a big sign; it's a bicycle workshop that also sells black coffee in styrofoam cups. Don Carlos, the owner, opens at 5:30 a.m. on Wednesdays. A black coffee with panela costs $1,500 COP (reference price from May 2026). The place is tiny, with tools hanging on the walls and the smell of grease and coffee. Cyclists sit on the plastic chairs on the sidewalk, check their tires, and discuss the day's route. It's the informal meeting point before starting.

Stop 2: Empanada at 'Doña Chava'

Halfway through the route, on Calle 5ta with Carrera 29, is 'Doña Chava's' cart. She has been on the same corner for 15 years, and on Wednesdays at 7:00 a.m. there is already a line of cyclists. The empanadas are pipián, beef, and cheese, fried in very hot oil. They cost $2,500 COP each. Doña Chava is a 60-year-old lady who remembers the names of all her regular customers. "Wednesdays are sacred," she says while serving empanadas with homemade chili. There are no tables: you eat them standing up, leaning your bike against the curb, and then keep pedaling.

Stop 3: Pedestrian bridge viewpoint

The last secret is on the pedestrian bridge that crosses Carrera 7ma, at the height of Calle 26. It's not an official viewpoint, but from the top you can see all of northern Cali: the buildings of Versalles, the Chamber of Commerce tower, and the mountain range in the background. On Wednesdays at 8:00 a.m., when the sun is already warm, it's the best time to take a photo. Cyclists stop there, rest for five minutes, and watch the city wake up. Some bring their own thermos of coffee and share cookies. It's a ritual not found in any tourist guide.

Where to eat or drink

In addition to the stops along the route, Versalles has options for after the ciclovía. If you finish at 9:00 a.m. and are hungry, the 'El Patio de Versalles' restaurant on Carrera 34 with Calle 6ta opens at 8:00 a.m. They offer scrambled eggs with arepa and coffee for $8,000 COP. It is frequented by office workers, but on Wednesdays you see several cyclists with sweat on their foreheads having breakfast at the outdoor tables.

Another option is the 'La Suiza' bakery on Calle 5ta with Carrera 30. They have freshly baked pandebonos and almojábanas from 6:00 a.m. A pandebono costs $1,200 COP. It's perfect to take on your bike and eat at the pedestrian bridge viewpoint.

If you're looking for something more substantial, 'La 14' supermarket on Carrera 34 has a prepared foods section with empanadas, pastries, and natural juices. But be careful: traffic on Carrera 34 is heavy after 9 a.m., so it's better to go on foot or with your bike by your side.

How to get there and transportation

Versalles is in northern Cali, between Carreras 34 and 7ma, and Calles 5ta and 26. Getting there by bike is easiest if you come from nearby neighborhoods like Granada or San Fernando. If you come from the south, you can use the bike path on Avenida 3N to Calle 5ta, but watch out for potholes. For public transportation, the MIO has the 'Versalles' station on Carrera 34 with Calle 5ta. The routes that stop there are P21, T31, and P47. The fare is $2,700 COP. From the station, you walk two blocks to the starting point.

If you come by car, there are public parking lots on Carrera 34 with Calle 6ta, but they cost around $4,000 COP per hour. On Wednesdays, many cyclists arrive directly by bike, so I don't recommend the car: traffic on Carrera 34 is heavy from 7:30 a.m.

For tourists coming from other cities, Alfonso Bonilla Aragón Airport is 30 minutes away by taxi. A taxi from the airport to Versalles costs between $30,000 and $40,000 COP. There are also intercity buses that stop at the Cali Terminal, and from there you take a MIO to the Versalles station.

Local tips

• Avoid the bike path on Carrera 34: It has been in poor condition for months, with potholes and cracks that can blow a tire. Locals prefer to ride on Calle 5ta, which is better paved and has less traffic at 6 a.m.
• Bring lights: At 6 in the morning it is still dark, especially between January and March. A front light and a rear light are mandatory. At 'La Bicicletería' they sell LED light sets from $15,000 COP.
• Don't use headphones: Cars don't expect cyclists on this route, and some drivers get startled when they see them. Listen to the traffic and the horns. If you need music, use a small speaker on the handlebars.
• Bring cash: 'Doña Chava' and 'La Bicicletería' do not accept cards or Nequi. Empanadas and coffee are paid for with $1,000, $2,000, and $5,000 COP bills.
• Arrive 15 minutes early: The group leaves promptly at 6:00 a.m. If you arrive at 6:05, they are already gone. It's best to be there at 5:45 a.m. to have coffee and adjust your bike.
• Check the weather: In May 2026, mornings in Cali are cool, between 18 and 22 degrees. But if it rains, the route is canceled. Locals announce it on the WhatsApp group 'Ciclistas de Versalles Cali' (link in bio).

Frequently asked questions

Is the Wednesday ciclovía in Versalles free?

Yes, it is completely free. There is no registration, no permit, and no cost. You just need a bicycle in good condition, a desire to pedal, and to arrive at the meeting point at 6:00 a.m. That said, the coffee and empanada stops have a cost, but they are popular prices.

Can I go with small children?

Yes, several parents bring their children in bike seats or trailers. The route is short (2 kilometers) and traffic is minimal before 7 a.m. However, keep in mind that there are no public restrooms along the way. Many use the bathroom at 'La Bicicletería' or at the 'La Suiza' bakery if you order something.

What to do if my bike breaks down during the route?

Don Carlos from 'La Bicicletería' is at the starting point and usually stays until 8 a.m. on Wednesdays. If you have a flat tire or a mechanical problem, you can take your bike to him and he will fix it on the spot. Bring basic tools (an Allen key and a patch) just in case, but the workshop is your best option.

Join the WhatsApp group 'Ciclistas de Versalles Cali' (link in bio) to announce Wednesday routes and receive alerts about schedule changes or weather conditions.