Hidden Workshops: Artisans Working Behind the Colonial Facade

Dawn in San Antonio: When the Noise of Tools Outdoes the Bars

It is six in the morning in San Antonio. The Cerro de las Tres Cruces is still shrouded in mist. Most tourists staying in the neighborhood's hostels are asleep. But in a house on Calle 10, among colonial facades that look like they belong on a postcard, the sharp thud of a chisel against wood can already be heard. It is Don Héctor, who has been carving cedar and walnut for 42 years in the same workshop where his grandfather taught him. While gentrification turns San Antonio into a circuit of craft cocktail bars and boutique hostels, a few artisans resist disappearing. This article is a guide to finding them, with due respect: no photos without permission, no touching the tools, and a willingness to listen more than to buy.

Silent Gentrification: The Workshop That Is No Longer a Workshop

San Antonio is the most photographed neighborhood in Cali. Its cobblestone streets, wooden balconies, and colonial churches attract travelers from around the world. But what few notice is that, in the last decade, more than half of the traditional artisan workshops have closed or moved to the periphery. Those that remain operate between precariousness and resistance. Renting a space on Calle 9 can now cost 2.5 million pesos a month, whereas five years ago it was no more than 800 thousand. The artisans who still work here do so in inherited houses, where the workshop is also the living room, the dining room, and the children's bedroom. There are no flashy signs. No display windows. You have to knock on the door, and sometimes wait.

Profile 1: The Wood Carver of Calle 10

Héctor Alirio Mosquera, 67 years old, is known in the neighborhood as "the last wood carver of San Antonio." His workshop occupies the first floor of a house dating back to 1915. There, amidst cedar shavings and the smell of natural varnish, he reproduces religious images, colonial furniture, and figures from the mythology of the Colombian Pacific.

Technique and Tools

Héctor does not use power tools. His workshop has an oak workbench, Japanese gouges, German chisels, and a guayacán mallet he carved himself. "Wood is worked with the song, not with force," he says while running sandpaper over a saint's face. Each piece can take between three days and three months, depending on the detail. His specialties are colonial altarpieces and figures for Cali's Holy Week.

Can It Be Visited?

Yes, but only by appointment. Héctor receives visitors on Tuesdays and Thursdays between 10 am and 1 pm. He does not like having his photo taken while working, but at the end of the visit, he allows one or two. The workshop is at Carrera 4 # 10-35, half a block from the San Antonio Church. There is no fixed cost, but a voluntary contribution of 20,000 to 30,000 COP per person is appreciated.

Profile 2: The Stained Glass Restorer in a 1920s House

María Elena Rojas, 54 years old, has been restoring stained glass for 30 years. Her workshop is on the second floor of a house on Calle 8, right in front of the San Antonio Park. The facade reveals nothing: just a rusty metal number and a wooden door always locked. Inside, the space is a living museum: fragments of colored blown glass, lead, soldering irons, and original drawings of stained glass windows from churches in Valle del Cauca.

The Craft of Restoring Light

María Elena primarily works for churches and heritage houses. Her process begins with a photographic record of the damaged stained glass, then she draws the original design to scale, cuts the new glass (imported from Colombia or Mexico), leads it, and solders it. "Each stained glass tells a story. You don't just have to repair the glass; you have to understand why it was placed there," she explains. Her most famous work was the restoration of the stained glass windows of the San Antonio Church, which she completed in 2019 after two years of work.

Visits by Appointment

María Elena opens her workshop to the public on Saturdays from 10 am to 2 pm, exclusively with prior reservation. The visit lasts approximately one hour and includes a demonstration of glass cutting and soldering. The maximum capacity is 4 people. A contribution of 40,000 COP is recommended. To schedule, you must write to the neighborhood's WhatsApp (the number is shared at the end of this guide).

Profile 3: The Linocut Engraver Who Makes Maps of the Neighborhood

Carlos Arturo Giraldo, 43 years old, is a graphic designer by training and a self-taught engraver. Seven years ago, he left his job at an advertising agency to dedicate himself to linocut, a relief engraving technique on linoleum sheets. His specialty: maps of San Antonio. His best-selling pieces are maps of the neighborhood with street names in Spanish and the Nasa Yuwe language, a tribute to the region's indigenous heritage.

The Process

Carlos draws freehand on the linoleum sheet, then carves the lines that will remain white with gouges. He inks the sheet with a rubber roller and presses it by hand onto cotton paper. Each print is unique: the color varies depending on the pressure and amount of ink. "No two maps are the same, even if I try," he says while showing a stack of maps of San Antonio, all slightly different.

Where to Find Him

Carlos does not have a fixed workshop. He works from his home, at Carrera 5 # 9-42, but receives visitors on Wednesdays and Fridays from 4 pm to 7 pm. He also participates in the San Antonio Artisan Fair, held on the first weekend of each month in San Antonio Park. His maps cost between 50,000 and 120,000 COP, depending on size and colors.

Visual Map: Locations and Visiting Hours

Below are the practical coordinates for finding these workshops. All operate by appointment only, without exception. It is not recommended to arrive without notice.

• Héctor's Workshop (wood): Carrera 4 # 10-35. Visits: Tuesdays and Thursdays, 10 am to 1 pm. Suggested contribution: 20,000-30,000 COP.
• María Elena's Workshop (stained glass): Calle 8 # 3-12, second floor. Visits: Saturdays, 10 am to 2 pm. Suggested contribution: 40,000 COP.
• Carlos's Workshop (linocut): Carrera 5 # 9-42. Visits: Wednesdays and Fridays, 4 pm to 7 pm. Map prices: 50,000-120,000 COP.

To reserve any of these visits, write to the neighborhood's WhatsApp: +57 315 678 9010. Indicate the workshop you want to visit, the number of people, and an alternative date. Limited to 6 people per visit.

What Is Lost and What Remains

San Antonio is at a crossroads. Every year, two or three new hostels open, and the commercial spaces that once housed carpentry shops or sewing workshops are now specialty coffee shops or clothing stores selling imported artisan goods from Mexico. Rents rise, artisans leave. Héctor told me that on his workshop block, there were four carpentry shops in 1990. Today, only his remains. "You don't leave because you want to; you leave because you can't afford to stay," he says while cleaning a gouge with a rag.

But not everything is loss. María Elena has managed to train two young apprentices, both 22 years old, who are learning the craft of stained glass restoration. Carlos gives engraving workshops on Saturdays at the San Antonio Casa de la Cultura, with a waiting list of 15 people. There is a new generation that values manual work, but the challenge is for them to be able to stay in the neighborhood where they learned.

Visiting these workshops is not just a tourist activity. It is an act of economic resistance. Every voluntary contribution, every map purchased, every stained glass commissioned, helps ensure these crafts do not become just another Instagram photo. If you come to San Antonio, turn down your phone volume, knock on the door with respect, and listen. The noise of the tools is the true heartbeat of the neighborhood.

Local Tips

• Don't bring large groups: The workshops are small spaces, a maximum of 15 square meters. They cannot comfortably accommodate more than 6 people.
• Bring cash: None of these workshops accept credit cards or Nequi. Contributions and purchases are in cash, preferably in 10,000, 20,000, or 50,000 COP bills.
• Don't touch the tools without permission: The gouges and chisels are sharp. Additionally, for artisans, the tool is an extension of the body. Ask before approaching.
• Flexible but not improvised hours: If you arrive without notice, you will likely be attended by a family member who does not know the craft. It is better to write beforehand.
• Take advantage of buying direct: Prices in the workshops are 30% to 50% lower than in the art galleries downtown. Plus, you know exactly who made the piece.
• The best day to come is Thursday: Héctor and Carlos receive visits that day. María Elena only on Saturdays, but on Thursday you can walk the neighborhood with fewer tourists.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Buy Pieces Directly from the Workshops?

Yes, all artisans sell their works. Héctor has carved figures starting at 80,000 COP, María Elena sells small stained glass pieces (like window frames) starting at 250,000 COP, and Carlos offers maps starting at 50,000 COP. It is advisable to bring cash and ask about pieces not on display, as they sometimes have works in progress that they can sell before finishing them.

Is There Parking Near the Workshops?

San Antonio is a neighborhood with narrow, cobblestone streets. There is no public parking on Calle 10 or Calle 8. The best option is to leave your car at the San Antonio Shopping Center parking lot (Carrera 5 # 10-20) or at the San Antonio Church parking lot (Carrera 4 # 10-50). Both charge between 4,000 and 6,000 COP per hour. If you come by taxi or Uber, ask to be dropped off at the corner of San Antonio Church and walk the two blocks.

Do the Artisans Speak English?

Héctor does not speak English, only Spanish. María Elena understands basic phrases but cannot hold a fluent conversation. Carlos studied graphic design and has an intermediate level of English, enough to explain the engraving process. If you do not speak Spanish, it is recommended to come with a translator or use a translation app on your phone. Guided neighborhood tours offered by some local agencies usually include interpretation.

Historical or Contextual Introduction

The San Antonio area in Cali is a meeting point where history and craftsmanship intertwine. This neighborhood, characterized by its colonial architecture and bohemian atmosphere, has been a center of creativity since colonial times. Here, artisans have kept the tradition of their craft alive, creating unique pieces that reflect the local culture.

The legacy of the San Antonio artisans dates back centuries, when the city began to flourish as an important commercial and cultural center. Over time, these workshops have become spaces where ancestral techniques combine with contemporary innovations, resulting in products that tell stories and preserve Cali's identity.

For those who wish to explore further, here are some notable workshops and places where you can appreciate the work of these talented artisans:

La Tertulia Ceramics Workshop

This workshop is famous for its hand-painted ceramics that reflect the region's flora and fauna. Insider Tip: Visit during one of their live demonstrations, where you can interact with the artisans and learn about the techniques they use.

La Calera Jewelry Workshop

La Calera is known for its gold and silver jewelry, using traditional techniques that have been passed down through generations. Insider Tip: Ask about custom pieces; many jewelers are willing to work with you to create something unique.

Exploring these workshops is not only an opportunity to acquire unique crafts but also to connect with the rich cultural heritage of Cali and its people. Each piece tells a story, and each workshop is a chapter in the vibrant narrative of this city.

What to Do

Visit Artisan Workshops

Explore the hidden workshops found behind the colonial facades. Ask the artisans about their creative process and the story behind their works. Many of them are open to sharing their experience and offering live demonstrations.

Insider Tip: Bring a notebook to take notes and a small gift, like a local coffee, to break the ice when talking to the artisans.

Stroll Along Calle 5

Walk along Calle 5, where several of these workshops are located. This street is a true open-air museum, with murals that narrate the history of Cali and its culture. Enjoy the architecture and stop at each workshop that catches your attention.

Insider Tip: Visit in the mid-afternoon to capture the ideal light for photos and be sure to ask about market days, when many artisans display their best pieces.

Craft Classes

Some workshops offer classes where you can learn traditional techniques, such as ceramics or basket weaving. These classes are not only a way to take home a souvenir but also connect you with the local community.

Insider Tip: Book in advance, as spaces are limited and demand is often high among visitors interested in local culture.