Night Trails in the Eastern Hills: The Firefly Route and Urban Silence

The hill nobody walks at night (and why you should do it with a certified guide)

When the sun sets in Bogotá, most people head home, lock themselves in a bar, or get on a bus staring at their phones. The Eastern Hills, that green wall that has watched over the city since the times of the Muisca, are left alone. And it's precisely there, in that solitude, that something few Bogotanos have seen happens: the sky fills with points of light that aren't stars, the air changes its smell, and the city, with its 8 million inhabitants, becomes a distant murmur.

We're talking about fireflies. Yes, in Bogotá. Twenty minutes from the center, on the trails that climb up from neighborhoods like La Vieja or the Aguas Claras sector, between June and September (with peaks in August 2026), you can see hundreds of these bioluminescent insects. But beware: this is not a spontaneous stroll. It's a real mountain route, with slopes that make you sweat, trails that get lost if you don't know them, and environmental regulations from the Acueducto de Bogotá that don't forgive those who enter without permission.

This article is the guide I wish I'd had the first time I went. I'm not going to sell you smoke: I'm going to tell you how things really are, what to bring, how much it costs, where to enter, and why, in August 2026, if you don't book weeks in advance, you'll be left out. Because this month's full moon already has a waiting list.

Why the Eastern Hills at night are a whole different story

By day, the route to La Vieja or the Aguas Claras trail is a family plan. Families with dogs, mountain bikers, people exercising. Nice, but nothing out of this world. At night, the scene changes completely. The temperature drops to 8 degrees Celsius in the dry season, the wind slips through the eucalyptus trees and the frailejones (yes, there are frailejones in Bogotá, though many don't know it), and the sounds are different. You no longer hear the morning song of the blackbirds: you hear the creaking of branches, the flapping of bats, and, if you're lucky, the hooting of an owl.

The firefly phenomenon in the Eastern Hills isn't new, but it has gained strength in recent years. The reason: the recovery of native forests and the reduction of light pollution in certain high-altitude sectors. Fireflies (from the Lampyridae family) are bioindicators: if they appear, it means the ecosystem is healthy. And in 2026, sighting reports in the Las Delicias creek basin and around the path to the lime mine are becoming more and more frequent.

But there's a detail nobody tells you in TikTok videos: fireflies aren't a guaranteed light show. They're animals, not light bulbs. Their activity depends on humidity, temperature, and the lunar cycle. New moon nights are the best, because darkness makes their bioluminescence stand out. Full moon nights (like this August 2026 one) also work, but you have to look for the shadiest areas. And that's why, more than a stroll, this is an observation expedition. You walk slowly, you speak softly, and you turn off your flashlights at key points.

Starting point: the access points that don't show up on Google Maps

Forget the main entrance to the La Vieja trail on Carrera 1 Este with Calle 68. That's everyone's door, the one that appears in Instagram photos and closes at 5 p.m. For the night route, local guides (those who really know the hill) use two alternative access points:

Access 1: The Aguas Claras trail from the La Vieja neighborhood

This is the most used one and the one I recommend for a first time. You enter through the north side of the La Vieja neighborhood, specifically on Calle 70 with Carrera 1 Este, where the pavement ends and the dirt path begins. There's a metal gate from the Acueducto de Bogotá that's usually closed, but certified guides have permission to open it with their access code. Don't try to jump over it: the Acueducto's security cameras are active, and fines for invading the forest reserve can exceed 2 million pesos.

From this point, the ascent is gradual. The first 20 minutes are the hardest because your body is adapting to the altitude (you're at 2,600 meters above sea level and climb up to 3,100). The trail is marked with wooden stakes and blue paint marks on the trees. At 40 minutes you reach a natural viewpoint over the Las Delicias creek. It's the first sighting point.

Access 2: The lime mine path through the Aguas Claras sector

This is the "pro" access. You enter through the Aguas Claras sector, behind the Aguas Claras school, in the Chapinero Alto locality. It's a steeper path, with sections of loose stone and dense vegetation. I don't recommend it for beginners or for people not used to hiking in the mountains. But it has an advantage: it's the point with the highest record of fireflies in 2025 and 2026, according to community monitoring done by the Fundación Cerros de Bogotá. However, the permit here is stricter. Only two certified guides operate with access to this sector, and both charge a bit more for the difficulty.

Fun fact: this path passes by the remains of an old lime mine that operated until the mid-20th century. In fact, the sector's name comes from there. The lime kilns are in ruins, covered in moss and ferns, and on foggy nights they look like they're straight out of a horror movie. It's an excellent spot for long-exposure photos, but you have to be careful: the ground is uneven and there are deep holes.

The route: 2 hours of silent ascent with the skyline as a backdrop

The complete route, from the starting point to the return, takes between 3 and 4 hours. The pure ascent is about 2 hours, but it's done with strategic stops. Guides don't walk continuously: they walk, stop, turn off the lights, and wait. That's the key.

Stop 1: The Las Delicias creek viewpoint (minute 40)

Here's where the first observation happens. If the weather has been humid in the previous days (and in August 2026 it has rained quite a bit), fireflies start appearing between 7:30 and 8:00 p.m. They're not hundreds in one place: they're groups of 10 to 15, blinking near the ground, among the leaf litter and fallen logs. They're better seen out of the corner of your eye than looking at them directly. It's a tip biologists give: peripheral vision is more sensitive to dim light.

From this viewpoint, the Bogotá skyline looks spectacular. The city stretches out like a sea of yellow and white lights, with the Colpatria and BD Bacatá towers as reference points. It's the perfect moment for long-exposure photos. However, guides recommend using red filters on your headlamps so as not to scare off the insects and not to ruin your eyes' night adaptation.

Stop 2: The eucalyptus clearing (minute 75)

Climbing a bit more, the cloud forest opens into a clearing surrounded by eucalyptus trees. Here the wind is stronger and the city's sound almost disappears. It's the spot where you can see bats. Don't be scared: the species that inhabit the Eastern Hills are insectivorous and pose no danger to humans. They look like quick shadows crossing the clearing, hunting moths. Guides often carry an ultrasonic detector so the group can hear the bats' echoes in real time. It's a moment that always surprises first-timers.

In this clearing, there's also a pause to have something hot. Guides carry thermoses with aguapanela or hot chocolate. It's not luxury, it's necessity: at 3,000 meters altitude, with wind and humidity, the wind chill drops considerably.

Stop 3: The final viewpoint, before the return (minute 110)

The highest point of the unofficial route is a flat rock that serves as a natural viewpoint, right at the edge of the forest reserve. From here, on clear nights, you can see the entire Bogotá savanna all the way to the Suba hills and Cota. It's the ideal place to turn everything off, sit in silence, and simply listen. Guides often do a "5-minute silence" exercise where you only hear the wind and, if you're lucky, the distant bark of a dog or the passing of a plane. It's an almost meditative moment that contrasts with the chaos of the city center, which is only 20 minutes away by car.

The return is done along the same trail, but with headlamps on. Going down at night is more dangerous than going up, because your knees suffer more and fatigue starts to take its toll. Guides recommend bringing trekking poles, although they're not mandatory.

Safety and logistics: what you need to know before you go

There's no room for improvisation here. The Eastern Hills are a forest reserve protected by the CAR (Corporación Autónoma Regional) and by the Acueducto de Bogotá, which administers a large part of the land. Entering without permission is a serious offense. And at night, it's also dangerous: there are sections with slopes over 30 degrees, the trail blurs in the darkness, and there are animals like snakes (most are harmless, but better not to step on one).

Necessary gear: the list you can't forget

• Headlamp (mandatory). A handheld flashlight won't do because you need both hands free to support yourself on poles or the terrain. Make sure it's rechargeable and has at least 200 lumens. Bring a spare just in case.
• Thermal clothing. At night, at 3,000 meters, the temperature easily drops to 8-10 degrees. A windbreaker jacket is essential. Cotton is a bad idea because it retains moisture and cools you down. Better to layer: technical t-shirt, fleece sweater, and waterproof jacket.
• Hiking boots. Urban sneakers won't work. The terrain is slippery, with mud and loose stones. Ankle support is key to avoiding sprains.
• Trekking poles. Optional but highly recommended, especially for the descent.
• Thermos with a hot drink. Aguapanela, chocolate, or coffee. The guide usually brings some, but it doesn't hurt to have your own.
• Energy snacks. Nuts, granola bars, dark chocolate. Nothing heavy.
• Small backpack (20 liters is enough). Make sure it doesn't get in the way on narrow sections.

Permitted hours and regulations of the Acueducto de Bogotá

The Acueducto de Bogotá, which administers most of the Eastern Hills' land, has strict rules for night access. The main trails close at 5:00 p.m. and no one can enter after that time without an express permit. The night permits are only issued to certified guides who have completed a training program and have an access code. These permits are limited: no more than 15 people per group, and no more than 3 groups per night in the same sector. This is to minimize the environmental impact and ensure the safety of visitors.

Additionally, it's completely forbidden to: - Make fires or use stoves. - Play loud music or use speakers. - Leave trash (everything you bring in, you take out). - Use white flashlights in the observation areas (red filters are mandatory). - Stray from the marked trail.

Violations can result in fines of up to 2 million pesos and being banned from the reserve for up to 2 years. The Acueducto has park rangers who patrol at night, and the security cameras are active 24/7.

Reference costs (August 2026)

Prices are in Colombian pesos and are a reference for August 2026. They may vary depending on the guide and the season.

• Certified guide (group of up to 10 people): 80,000 to 120,000 COP per person. This includes the access permit, the guide's accompaniment, and the hot drink at the eucalyptus clearing.
• Private guide (1 to 4 people): 250,000 to 350,000 COP total. Ideal for couples or small groups who want a more personalized experience.
• Equipment rental (headlamp + trekking poles): 30,000 to 50,000 COP. Some guides include it in the price.
• Transportation (round trip from the city center): 40,000 to 60,000 COP by taxi or app-based ride. You can also take a TransMilenio bus to the Avenida Circunvalar stop and walk about 20 minutes to the starting point.

Remember: in August 2026, with the full moon, demand is high. Book at least 2 weeks in advance. Some guides already have waiting lists.

What if it rains?

In Bogotá, rain is part of the landscape, especially in August. If it rains, the guides usually postpone the outing to the next day with good weather. But if the rain is light, the outing goes ahead. In fact, light rain can increase firefly activity, as humidity favors their bioluminescence. However, if there's a thunderstorm or heavy rain, the risk of landslides and slippery trails increases significantly, and the guides won't take you up. In that case, they'll offer you to reschedule or refund your money.

Always check the weather forecast before you go. The IDEAM website is the official source for Colombia. If the forecast says more than 60% chance of rain, it's better to reschedule.

Where to have breakfast at dawn at the base of the hill

After the night hike, which ends around 11:00 p.m. or midnight, the plan is to go home and rest. But if you're one of those who prefers to stay until dawn (some guides offer a special "sunrise" version of the route), or if you simply want to have breakfast before heading back, here are three local spots that open early and are worth it.

Panadería La Vieja (La Vieja neighborhood, Carrera 1 Este # 68-32)

A neighborhood bakery that opens at 5:00 a.m. Their almojábanas (cheese bread) and pan de yuca are legendary among locals. They also serve hot chocolate with cheese, a classic Bogotá breakfast. It's a simple place, with plastic tables and chairs, but the aroma of fresh bread is irresistible. A full breakfast costs around 12,000 COP.

La Esquina del Pan (Calle 70 # 2-15, Chapinero Alto)

This one opens at 6:00 a.m. and is a bit more modern. They have excellent caldo de costilla (beef rib soup) to warm you up after the cold night, and their arepas de choclo (corn arepas) with butter and cheese are a delight. The coffee is also good, and they have a small terrace with views of the hills. A hearty breakfast costs around 18,000 COP.

Café El Mirador (Carrera 1 Este # 70-08, second floor)

As its name suggests, this café has a balcony overlooking the city. It opens at 7:00 a.m. and is perfect for a more relaxed breakfast. They serve huevos pericos (scrambled eggs with tomato and onion), arepa paisa, and a great cup of Colombian coffee. The view from the second floor is spectacular, especially on clear mornings. A breakfast with coffee costs around 22,000 COP.

Local tips only a Bogotano will tell you

• Don't wear perfume or strong-smelling deodorant. Insects are attracted to strong odors, and you'll be a walking target for mosquitoes and other bugs. Plus, the smell can interfere with the fireflies' pheromone communication.
• Bring a small plastic bag for your trash. There are no trash cans in the reserve. Everything you bring in, you take out. This is non-negotiable.
• If you wear glasses, bring a cleaning cloth. The humidity and fog will fog them up constantly. A microfiber cloth is a lifesaver.
• Don't drink too much water before the hike. There are no bathrooms on the trail. Guides usually plan a "nature break" stop in a discreet area, but it's not ideal. Better to hydrate well during the day and sip water during the hike.
• Charge your phone and camera fully before you go. There are no outlets on the hill. And bring a power bank if you plan to take lots of photos.
• If you're going to take photos, learn how to use long exposure. The fireflies' bioluminescence is faint, and you'll need a tripod and a camera that allows manual settings. A smartphone with night mode can work, but it won't capture the same detail.
• Respect the silence. The whole point of the experience is to listen to the night. Don't be the person who talks loudly the whole time. You'll ruin it for everyone, including yourself.

Historical or contextual introduction

The Eastern Hills of Bogotá are not just a natural landmark; they are a living memory of the city's history. For the Muisca, the indigenous people who inhabited the Bogotá savanna before the Spanish arrival, these hills were sacred. They were the domain of the gods, the source of water, and the place where the spirits of ancestors dwelled. The Bochica legend, which tells of a wise man who emerged from the hills to teach the Muisca and create the Tequendama Falls, is deeply rooted in this landscape.

With the Spanish conquest, the hills became a strategic point for controlling the city. During the colonial era, the hills were used for agriculture and timber extraction. In the 19th and 20th centuries, with the growth of Bogotá, the hills faced deforestation and urban expansion. It wasn't until the late 20th century that the environmental importance of the Eastern Hills was recognized, leading to their declaration as a forest reserve.

Today, the Eastern Hills are a green lung for the city, home to diverse flora and fauna, including the fireflies that have become a symbol of the recovery of these ecosystems. The night route is not just a hike; it's a journey through the history of Bogotá, a connection with the land that sustains the city, and a reminder that even in the midst of urban chaos, nature finds a way to thrive.

Where to eat or drink

After the night hike, you'll be hungry and tired. Here are three places in the city center where you can recover with good food and drink.

El Buen Gusto

Located in the heart of La Candelaria, El Buen Gusto is a traditional Colombian restaurant that has been serving hearty meals for decades. Their bandeja paisa is a feast: beans, rice, ground beef, chicharrón, fried egg, plantain, arepa, and avocado. It's the perfect meal to refuel after a night of hiking. They also have excellent sancocho (a hearty soup) and fresh fruit juices. Prices are moderate, around 25,000 to 35,000 COP per person.

La Puerta Falsa

This is one of the oldest and most iconic restaurants in Bogotá, located just steps from the Plaza de Bolívar. It's famous for its ajiaco, a traditional Bogotá chicken and potato soup with capers, corn, and cream. It's the ultimate comfort food, especially on a cold night. They also serve tamales and chocolate santafereño (hot chocolate with cheese and bread). It's a small, bustling place, so be prepared to wait, but it's worth it. Prices are around 20,000 to 30,000 COP per person.

El Jardín Secreto

For a more relaxed and bohemian atmosphere, El Jardín Secreto is a hidden gem in La Candelaria. It's a café-bar with a beautiful courtyard garden, perfect for unwinding after the hike. They serve excellent coffee, craft beers, and a variety of sandwiches and salads. Their torta de tres leches (three-milk cake) is a must-try. It's a great place to sit, chat, and reflect on the night's adventure. Prices are moderate, around 15,000 to 25,000 COP per person.