The myth of witchcraft in Santafé, beyond the Plaza Mayor
In 1621, Lorenza de Acereto found herself at the center of a whirlwind of accusations before the Holy Office in Santafé. Rumors of her flying as an owl over the Plaza Mayor and her meetings in the shadows of Monserrate hill led to her being denounced for demonic pacts. Her file, lost in the labyrinths of colonial archives, is just one of the hundreds that the Inquisition processed in what is now the center of Bogotá.
During the 17th century, this dusty town housed about 3,000 inhabitants, caught between Catholic fervor and the fear of the supernatural. The Inquisition in America became an apparatus of social control, especially directed at women, indigenous people, and slaves. And although many imagine the trials in the Plaza Mayor, they actually took place in the privacy of convents, private houses, and chapels that are still part of Bogotá's landscape today.
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On this journey, I not only want you to know the places where these sentences were pronounced, but also to feel the city that remains hidden among the colonial facades and the bustle of the TransMilenio buses. The stories of those trials still resonate on Bogotá's cobblestone streets, feeling like echoes of a past that invites us to reflect.
The real settings: Houses and convents where inquisitorial trials were held
When we mention "Inquisition in Bogotá," many think of torture and punishment. However, the truth was rather discreet. The Tribunal of the Holy Office in Santafé operated from rented houses and convents, where trials were held in secret, with the accused kneeling before three inquisitors. Although the hearings were secret, rumors spread quickly through the city.
The Casa del Santo Oficio: The first tribunal (now disappeared)
The first seat of the Holy Office was installed in the 1610s, near the current Plazoleta del Rosario, in La Candelaria. Although the house no longer exists, it was the scene of the first trials against "witches" and "sorceresses." The inquisitors came from Cartagena, bringing with them their Dominican habits and procedural manuals. The house housed an audience hall and cells, where the fates of many were sealed.
Now, in that same place, stands the square and the church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario. If you stop to look at the walls of the neighboring houses, you might imagine the frantic movement of friars and soldiers escorting the accused.
The Convento de Santo Domingo: Inquisitorial power
On Carrera 7th with Calle 12, the Convento de Santo Domingo was the stronghold of the Dominican order and the Inquisition in the New Kingdom of Granada. Although the original convent disappeared in the 20th century, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Rosario that replaced it retains an air of recollection, in contrast to the history of the interrogations that occurred there.
It is said that several women accused of witchcraft passed through the dungeons of this convent, waiting for months to hear their fate. Many left with broken health, others were banished, and a few managed to go free for lack of evidence.
The Palacio Arzobispal: Where the fate of souls was decided
On Plaza de Bolívar, the Palacio Arzobispal witnessed crucial decisions for the future of many. Although the current palace is from the 20th century, the original site was the scene of important trials. The archbishop had the authority to review sentences, and it is said that Fray Cristóbal de Torres, archbishop between 1635 and 1654, stood out for his mercy, saving several women from the stake.
Here, in the Plaza Mayor, the autos de fe were held, although in Santafé they were less spectacular than in Spain. The death penalty was rarely carried out, with the last public auto de fe in 1723 being more a spectacle of Catholic reaffirmation than a real punishment.
Private houses: The elite's "private" trials
Many trials were held in the homes of wealthy families who lent their salons for the hearings. This approach allowed inquisitors to avoid public scrutiny and conduct freer interrogations. One of these houses is the current Casa de la Moneda, on Calle 11 with Carrera 4th, where secret hearings were held in the 1650s.
Another relevant residence was that of the physician Sebastián de Belalcázar, who lent his house on Calle 12 with Carrera 5th for several trials. Neighbors recounted that screams and prayers could be heard from the street, but few dared to intervene.
Profiles of the accused: Women, indigenous people, and slaves in the dock
The Inquisition in Santafé did not persecute Protestant heretics. Its main victims were the vulnerable: single or widowed women, indigenous people who maintained their ancestral rituals, and African slaves who mixed their beliefs with Catholicism. These profiles dominated the files:
Mestiza and Creole "witches"
The stereotype of the witch in Santafé was a low-class mestiza or Creole woman, knowledgeable about medicinal herbs and capable of making love amulets. Many were midwives or healers, and their lack of a medical title made them suspicious. Juana García, accused in 1636 of "tying" husbands, was sentenced to banishment and to wearing a sambenito during masses.
María de Céspedes, for her part, was accused in 1654 by her own daughter of having offered her to the demon when she was a child. Her case lasted four years, ending with her banishment to a coastal town, where her trail was lost.
Indigenous people: The persistence of Muisca beliefs
The Muisca, who inhabited the Bogotá savanna, were persecuted for maintaining rituals to their nature gods. In 1619, a group of indigenous people from Bosa was prosecuted for worshiping a sacred stone in the river. Although the sentence was severe, the memory of their beliefs lasted well into the 18th century.
African slaves: Witchcraft as resistance
African slaves brought religions such as voodoo and candomblé, seen by the inquisitors as the work of the devil. In 1648, the Angolan slave Francisco was accused of leading a witches' sabbath in a cave on Guadalupe hill. Despite the torture and his confession, his story has become a reminder of the control the Inquisition exerted over the enslaved population.
Contemporary route: How to visit the historical sites and what to look for in each one
And here begins the exciting part: tracing these stories in today's Bogotá. Although the city has changed, the places remain, intermingled with cafés, hostels, and offices. This route can take a full day, so wear comfortable shoes and, of course, bring water.
Stop 1: Plaza de Bolívar and the Palacio Arzobispal
Starting at Plaza de Bolívar is like opening a history book. In front of you is the Palacio Arzobispal, to your left the Catedral Primada, and to your right the Capitolio Nacional. Although today it is a space for protests and tourists, if you arrive early (before 9 a.m.), you will feel a tranquility that contrasts with the bustle of the rest of the day.
What to look for: On the northeastern corner of the Palacio Arzobispal, there is a discreet plaque mentioning the history of the place. There is nothing about the Inquisition, but if you approach the south side of the cathedral, you will discover a small door that the condemned used to enter mass without being seen.
Fun fact: In 1650, a woman accused of witchcraft managed to escape by jumping from the window of a house neighboring the square. She landed on a vegetable stall and disappeared into the crowd. She was never captured again.
Stop 2: La Candelaria and the Plazoleta del Rosario
Head south on Carrera 7th and in less than 10 minutes you will arrive at the Plazoleta del Rosario, where the first house of the Holy Office stood. Today it is a vibrant meeting point with empanada vendors and students from the Universidad del Rosario.
What to look for: The church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, from the 17th century, has an altar dedicated to Santo Domingo, the patron saint of the Inquisition. If you are lucky, a local guide will tell you the legend of the underground tunnels that connected to the old convent, used to move prisoners without being seen. Although there is no evidence, the legend persists.
Recommendation: Enjoy a coffee at one of the shops on the square and watch people pass by. Daily life goes on, but if you close your eyes, you can imagine the inquisitors walking toward the tribunal.
Stop 3: The Archivo General de la Nación
For true history enthusiasts, the Archivo General de la Nación (Calle 24 # 8-66) is a must-see stop. The original files of the Inquisition in Santafé are preserved here. Although it is not a conventional tourist destination, you can visit it from Monday to Friday during business hours. Admission is free, but you must register with your ID or passport.
What to look for: In the reading room, ask for guidance on the documents of the Inquisition Fund. You will not be able to touch the originals, but there are digital copies. Look for the names of Lorenza de Acereto, Juana García, and Francisco the Angolan. Reading those testimonies is an unsettling experience that connects you with forgotten voices.
Practical tip: The Archive does not offer tour guides, but the staff is friendly and can help you. If you do not speak Spanish, bring a translator or use an app. The documents are in old Spanish, so even for native speakers it can be a challenge, but it is worth the effort.
