The Best Kept Secret of El Rodadero: Calle 12

Why Calle 12 is the true heart of El Rodadero

If you arrive at El Rodadero and only stay on the main avenue, with its hotels, fixed-menu restaurants, and souvenir shops, you will miss what truly makes this neighborhood special. Calle 12 does not appear in generic travel guides, nor on the maps handed out in hotels. It is a narrow street of low houses, starting behind the old Police Station building and heading up towards the hill, right where the noise of street vendors mixes with the smell of fried fish and the sound of children playing dominoes on the sidewalks. There are no tourists with cameras hanging around their necks here, except for those who already know where they are.

Calle 12 is the secret we samarios cherish. It is not a trendy destination, nor a place for Instagram photos. It is a piece of real life in El Rodadero, where fishermen still tie their boats to the shore, where ladies sell empanadas from 6 in the morning, and where murals tell stories that no tourist brochure has bothered to print. In June 2026, when the sun is strong and the beaches are full of visitors, this street remains a refuge of authenticity. Here I tell you why it is worth straying a few steps from the tourist route.

History of Calle 12: from fishermen settlements to everyone's street

El Rodadero was not always the sun and beach destination you know today. Fifty years ago, this was a fishing hamlet, with wooden houses and zinc roofs, where people lived off the sea and what little could be grown on the hillsides. Calle 12 was then the main path connecting the settlements to the shore. The first businesses to appear were grocery stores, fresh fish stalls, and small net repair workshops.

With the arrival of tourism in the 80s, the hotel zone expanded northwards, leaving Calle 12 as a corridor forgotten by big investments. Paradoxically, that saved it. While the main streets filled up with restaurant chains and souvenir shops, Calle 12 kept its essence: families who have been selling the same thing for three generations, facades that have not been painted by a beer brand, and a pace of life that does not speed up for the high season. Today, walking here is like peeking into a photo album from the 90s, but with free wifi on the corners.

One of the most emblematic spots is the corner of Carrera 2 and Calle 12, where since 1987 Doña Matilde has been selling arepas de huevo and fish empanadas. Her stall has no name, just a cardboard sign that says "Grandma's Empanadas". Locals know that if you arrive after 10 in the morning, there are no shrimp ones left. Those kinds of details are what make Calle 12 a place with a soul, not a backdrop for tourists.

What to do on Calle 12: beyond the beach

Do not expect to find a structured tourist plan. The charm of Calle 12 is precisely that it does not have one. Here, activities arise on their own: an impromptu soccer game on the dirt court, a conversation with the man repairing outboard motors, or simply sitting on one of the concrete benches to watch life go by. But if you need a guide, these are the must-sees.

The Mermaid mural: the only one of its kind in El Rodadero

On the facade of house # 12-34, right where the street starts to go uphill, there is a mural that few know about. It is a vibrant mermaid, with hair as green as the sea of Santa Marta Bay and a face that blends indigenous and African features. It was painted by a local artist known as "El Mello" in 2019, as a tribute to the women fishermen of the area. There is no other similar mural in all of El Rodadero. Most of the graffiti you see on the main avenue is from beer brands or seasonal promotions. This one is different: it has a small signature in the lower right corner and a date. If you look closely, the mermaid holds a fish that, according to the neighbors, is the same one caught in the bay: the red snapper. It is a detail that no tour guide will tell you.

The mural is not signposted, so you have to look for it. A clue: next to it is a grocery store that sells "Chocolisto" in small bags and loose cigarettes. If you ask for "the mermaid mural", the neighborhood kids will run you over. It is their treasure.

Authentic street food: the corner empanadas

I already mentioned Doña Matilde, but it is worth stopping. Her empanadas are made of yellow corn, filled with shredded fish with onion and tomato, and she fries them in coconut oil. The secret touch, according to her, is a pinch of cumin that gives it a flavor you won't find anywhere else. They cost 2,500 Colombian pesos each (reference prices from June 2026). The stall is open Monday to Saturday, from 6:30 am to 1:00 pm, or until the dough runs out. Sundays she rests, because "even grandmothers need mass", she says.

If you prefer something more substantial, at the end of the street, where the pavement turns to dirt, there is a man who grills fish on an improvised grill made of metal drums. His name is Don Carlos and he has been at the same spot for 22 years. His specialty is grilled jack mackerel with patacón and cabbage salad. There is no menu, you just ask "what's there today?" and he tells you. A full plate costs around 15,000 pesos. There are no social media, no food photos, just the smell of charcoal and the sound of the sea in the background.

Neighborhood life: a leisurely stroll

Calle 12 is perfect for a half-hour walk, but if you let yourself go, you can spend the whole morning. The neighbors are friendly, though wary at first. It is not a place where they try to sell you something at every step; it is a place where people live. You can see children playing soccer in the street, older adults sitting in plastic chairs watching the movement, and stray dogs sleeping under almond trees. If you sit on one of the benches, someone will offer you a tinto (black coffee) and ask where you are from. It is not a setup for tourists; it is genuine.

Where to eat and drink on Calle 12

There are no restaurants with tablecloths or menus in English here. The gastronomic offering is street food, homemade, and sincere. I recommend three must-stop spots.

Doña Matilde's empanada stand

Address: Carrera 2 with Calle 12, no #. Corner of the grocery store "La Económica". Hours: Monday to Saturday, 6:30 am to 1:00 pm. Prices: empanadas at 2,500 COP, arepas de huevo at 3,500 COP. They do not accept cards, only cash.

Don Carlos's grill

Location: Calle 12, last stretch before the climb to the hill, where the pavement ends. Hours: Thursday to Sunday, 11:00 am until the fish runs out (usually 5:00 pm). Prices: grilled jack mackerel plate with patacón and salad, 15,000 COP. Whole fish, 25,000 COP. Cash only.

"La Esquina del Sabor" store

At Calle 12 with Carrera 3, there is a store that sells natural juices of corozo, soursop, and lulo. It is not a restaurant, it is a family home that put a counter in the window. Juices are from 3,000 to 5,000 COP, depending on size. Doña Carmen, the owner, prepares them with panela water and shaved ice. It is perfect for the midday heat.

How to get to Calle 12 and transportation

Getting there is simple, but you need to know where to go. Calle 12 is two blocks from the main beach of El Rodadero, parallel to Avenida del Mar. If you come from downtown Santa Marta, take a bus to El Rodadero (any that says "Rodadero" on the sign) and get off at the stop by the Police Station building, just before the pedestrian bridge. From there, walk south along Carrera 2, and in less than three minutes you will see the "Calle 12" sign painted on a wall.

If you come by taxi from downtown, the trip costs between 12,000 and 18,000 COP, depending on traffic. Tell the driver to drop you off at "the entrance to Calle 12, behind the Police station". Most taxi drivers know the reference. If you come from Santa Marta airport (Simón Bolívar), it is about 20 minutes by taxi, costing 30,000 to 40,000 COP.

To get around the neighborhood, walking is best. Calle 12 is narrow and there is no space for cars. If you need to go further, mototaxis (motorcycle taxis) pass frequently along Carrera 2. A short trip costs 3,000 COP. Negotiate the price before getting on.

Local tips to enjoy Calle 12 like a samario

• Arrive early. Calle 12 comes to life between 6:00 and 9:00 am, when the fishermen return with the day's catch and the ladies start frying. After 11:00 am, the sun is strong and most food stalls close by noon.
• Bring cash. They do not accept cards here, and Nequi is not common. 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 peso bills are the most used. 500 and 1,000 peso coins also work.
• Always greet. Before asking for something, say "good morning" or "good afternoon". It is a courtesy that locals value and it opens doors. If you don't greet, they will look at you strangely.
• Don't take out your cell phone constantly. It is not that it is dangerous, but the people in the neighborhood feel uncomfortable when tourists record everything. Better put your phone away and talk to people. Ask about the history of the mural or the best fish of the day. They will answer you gladly.
• Try the fresh fish before noon. Don Carlos and other informal vendors cook what they caught that morning. If you arrive after 2:00 pm, there is likely nothing left or the fish won't be as fresh.
• Use sunscreen and repellent. The street has areas with trees and shade, but there are also mosquitoes, especially at dusk. Bring sunscreen if you plan to walk between 10:00 am and 3:00 pm.
• Respect the neighborhood's pace. Do not expect fast service or strict hours. If Doña Matilde closes at 1:00 pm, it is because she ran out of dough, not because she is lazy. Accept that things here work on their own time.

A curious fact that almost no one knows: on Calle 12, right at house # 12-08, lived during the 90s the samario musician "Pacho" Rada, one of the pioneers of modern vallenato. Neighbors say he used to sit on the sidewalk playing his accordion at sunset. Today, a small plaque on the facade remembers him, but it is so worn that only the oldest in the neighborhood know it is there. If you ask for "Pacho's house", they will point it out and tell you stories of when vallenato played live on every corner.

Frequently asked questions about Calle 12

Is it safe to walk along Calle 12?

Yes, it is safe during the day. It is a residential and fishing neighborhood, with a lot of neighbor activity. As in any place in Santa Marta, avoid walking alone after 8:00 pm, especially if you don't know the area. During the day, there is no problem. The locals are friendly and will help you if you have questions.

Is there accommodation on Calle 12?

There are no hotels or hostels on Calle 12 itself. Most houses are family homes. However, one block away, on Carrera 2, there are some small hostels and tourist apartments. If you want to be close to the authenticity of the neighborhood, look for accommodation in that area, but keep in mind there are no luxuries or tourist services. It is more for travelers seeking a neighborhood experience.

Can I eat if I am vegetarian or vegan?

It is difficult. Calle 12 revolves around fish and fried foods. Doña Matilde's empanadas are fish, and Don Carlos's stall only sells fish. However, at the "La Esquina del Sabor" store you can get natural juices and fresh fruit. If you are vegetarian, it is better to plan to eat elsewhere and use Calle 12 for a cultural walk, not a gastronomic one.

Are there public restrooms or places to sit?

There are no public restrooms. The only available restrooms are in the grocery stores, but you must buy something to use them. As for seating, there are concrete benches on the corner of Carrera 2 and Calle 12, and some neighbors have chairs on the sidewalks. If you ask politely, they might offer you a chair to rest.

What is the best time to visit Calle 12?

Calle 12 operates all year round, but the best time is between December and April, when the weather is drier and the sea is calm. In the rainy season (May to November), the streets get muddy and some informal stalls close. However, during Holy Week and December, the neighborhood fills up with Colombian visitors, so if you are looking for peace, avoid those dates.

Calle 12 is not a destination for everyone. It is for those who seek to understand how people really live in El Rodadero, far from the resorts and hotel chains. If you arrive with respect, hungry for stories, and with small bills in your pocket, you will take away a memory that no beach photo can match. Share this secret with another traveler who loves neighborhoods with history, but don't tell everyone. Let Calle 12 remain our corner.