The Golden Era Nobody Tells You About
Don Luis, an 80-year-old resident who lives on the corner of Avenida Santander and Calle 29, sits every afternoon on the porch of his house, a three-story art deco mansion his grandfather built in 1935. As the sun sets over the bay, he tells me what Manga was like in the 1940s: “The owners of textile factories, the customs merchants, the doctors who worked at the Bocagrande Hospital lived here. Parties lasted until dawn, and the ladies would drive down to the Club de Pesca in their convertible Cadillacs.” Don Luis points to the balcony of the house across the street, with its geometric moldings and a carved wooden door that no one opens anymore. “That was the Vélez house. They say they kept a treasure in the basement.” Don Luis’s smile is knowing: he knows Manga holds secrets that even tour guides don’t know.
Manga is not the Cartagena of Bocagrande’s skyscrapers or the colonial streets of the Historic Center. It is a quiet, tree-lined neighborhood where time seems to have stopped in the 1930s and 40s. Here, among palm trees and Caribbean sea breezes, lies a hidden collection of art deco mansions that rival the best in Miami Beach or Havana. But no one visits them. Until now.
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In this guide, I take you on a walking route through five iconic houses, with details on decorative style, exact coordinates, and an interview with a local facade restorer. At the end, I invite you for a coffee on the terrace of the Club de Pesca at sunset, just as the sun paints the domes of these architectural gems orange. And if you like what you see, download the interactive map with the 5 mansions and their secret history.
What to Do: Walking Route Through 5 Art Deco Mansions
This route is for walking without hurry, camera in hand and eyes wide open. The five houses are less than a 15-minute walk from each other, all in the Manga area, between Avenida Santander, Calle 29, and Calle 30. I recommend starting at 4 pm, when the light is golden and the facades look more dramatic.
1. Casa de los Vélez – The Hidden Treasure
Location: Avenida Santander # 29-45, corner with Calle 29. Coordinates: 10.4223, -75.5381.
This 1937 mansion is the crown jewel. Its facade combines the straight lines of art deco with wrought iron details reminiscent of the grilles on Havana houses. The main door is solid mahogany, with a stained glass window depicting a sailboat. Don Luis swears there is a secret passage in the basement leading to the bay. What is certain is that the original owners, the Vélez family, were liquor smugglers during Prohibition in the United States. The house has three floors, an interior garden with a tiled fountain, and a rooftop lookout with views of the entire bay.
Fun fact: In 1942, President Eduardo Santos slept here during a visit to Cartagena. The room he used still has its original furniture: a bronze bed, a cedar wardrobe, and a mirror with a tortoiseshell frame.
2. Casa del Dr. Martínez – The Elite Sanatorium
Location: Calle 30 # 28-12, half a block from Parque de la Marina. Coordinates: 10.4218, -75.5392.
Built in 1939 by Cartagena-born doctor Rafael Martínez, this mansion served as a private sanatorium for high society. The facade is a perfect example of the streamline moderne style (aerodynamic art deco), with curved windows, chrome railings, and a bow-shaped entrance. The interior retains the black and white marble floors, crystal chandeliers, and a spiral staircase leading to the former patient rooms. Today it is a private residence, but the current owners allow photos from the sidewalk.
Fun fact: Dr. Martínez treated Gabriel García Márquez when the writer was 12 years old and fell ill with yellow fever. The prescription he wrote is still preserved in the house’s archive.
3. Casa de los Gómez – The Palm Tree Mansion
Location: Avenida Santander # 30-60, in front of the Club de Pesca. Coordinates: 10.4210, -75.5405.
This 1941 mansion is the most photogenic of all. Its facade is decorated with hand-sculpted cement palm trees, a typical motif of tropical art deco seen only in Cartagena and Havana. The entrance has a semicircular arch with a stained glass window depicting the rising sun. The house has an interior patio with a turquoise tiled pool, surrounded by ferns and bougainvillea. It is currently a boutique hotel, the Hotel Casa de los Gómez, renting rooms from $250,000 COP per night. If you are not staying, you can ask for a coffee on its terrace (open to the public from 8 am to 6 pm).
Fun fact: The pool in this house was the first private pool in Cartagena. Neighbors would come to swim on weekends, and the owner charged 50 cents per person.
4. Casa de los Fernández – The Palace of Windows
Location: Calle 29 # 28-50, two blocks from Parque de la Marina. Coordinates: 10.4225, -75.5378.
Built in 1936, this mansion is famous for its 27 wooden and glass windows, all with different geometric shapes: rectangles, circles, triangles. The architect, the Italian Giovanni Battista, was inspired by the Palacio de la Magdalena in Santander, Spain, but added his Caribbean touch. The facade is mustard yellow, with white moldings and a dentiled cornice. The entrance has a wrought iron door with a wave design. Today it is the headquarters of the Fundación Cultural Manga, which organizes art exhibitions and classical music concerts. Admission is free on weekends.
Fun fact: In 1948, during the Bogotazo, the Fernández family hid three liberal politicians in the basement for two weeks. The house was raided by the police, but they never found the hiding place.
5. Casa de los Rodríguez – The Last Mansion
Location: Avenida Santander # 31-20, almost reaching the Club de Pesca. Coordinates: 10.4205, -75.5412.
This is the most recent of the five, built in 1945, just as art deco was going out of style. It is also the smallest, with two floors, but it has a unique detail: a ceramic mural on the facade depicting a scene from Taíno mythology, with sea gods and the sun. The house has been abandoned since 1990, and vegetation has grown over the mural, giving it a ghostly air. It is a magnet for vintage-style photographers. It is recommended to visit with caution, as the structure is deteriorated.
Fun fact: Neighbors say that on full moon nights, a light is seen in the second-floor window. Some swear it is the ghost of Mrs. Rodríguez, who died waiting for her son to return from New York, but he never came back.
Where to Eat or Drink: The Club de Pesca and Its Surroundings
After the walk, the best plan is to sit on the terrace of the Club de Pesca (Avenida Santander # 31-10, overlooking the bay). This private club, founded in 1942, is the social heart of Manga. Its terrace has direct sea views, and at sunset you can watch the sailboats return to port. The menu features seafood: shrimp ceviche ($22,000 COP), fried fish with patacones ($28,000 COP), and a coconut lemonade ($8,000 COP). You don't need to be a member to enter; just tell the reception you are going to the terrace as a guest.
If you prefer something more casual, two blocks away is La Casa de la Cerveza (Calle 29 # 28-30), a neighborhood bar with sidewalk tables, selling cold beers ($4,000 COP) and fish empanadas ($2,500 COP). It is a meeting point for locals and fishermen, and the atmosphere is relaxed.
For a full lunch, Restaurante La Marina (Calle 30 # 29-15) serves typical dishes like rice with coconut and shrimp ($25,000 COP) and fish sancocho ($18,000 COP). Open from 11 am to 9 pm.
Interview: Don Carlos, the Facade Restorer
Don Carlos is 62 years old and has restored over 30 art deco facades in Manga. I find him at the Casa de los Vélez, sanding a cement molding. I ask him what makes this neighborhood special.
—Don Carlos, why does Manga have so many art deco houses?
—Because in the 1930s and 40s, Manga was the most exclusive neighborhood in Cartagena. The rich wanted modern houses, not colonial ones. Art deco was the latest in architecture, with straight lines, vibrant colors, and lots of decorated cement. The Italian and Cuban architects arriving at the port brought magazines with designs from Miami and Havana. So a unique mix was created here: art deco with a Caribbean flavor.
—What is the biggest challenge in restoring these houses?
—The cement. Many facades have cement moldings that are falling off. You have to make a new mold, mix the cement with marble dust to make it shine, and then paint with lime. It is artisan work. The good thing is that the current owners are interested in preservation. Before, in the 80s, they wanted to demolish everything to build apartment buildings. Now they realize these houses are treasures.
—Come early, with good light. And talk to the neighbors. Every house has a story, and old folks like me are happy to tell them.
How to Get There and Transportation
Manga is a 10-minute taxi ride from the Historic Center and 15 minutes from Bocagrande. There is no Transcaribe station nearby, so the best options are walking or taking a taxi (minimum fare: $7,000 COP). If you come by car, there is parking on Avenida Santander, but it is limited.
For the walking route, wear comfortable shoes. The streets are flat and tree-lined, with shade most of the day. I recommend starting at Parque de la Marina (Calle 30 with Avenida Santander), where there is a monument to naval heroes, and then follow the route in order: Casa de los Vélez, Casa del Dr. Martínez, Casa de los Gómez, Casa de los Fernández, Casa de los Rodríguez. End at the Club de Pesca, two blocks from the last house.
If you prefer a guided tour, the Fundación Cultural Manga organizes walks on Saturdays at 10 am, with an architect explaining the details of each facade. It costs $15,000 COP per person and lasts two hours. It is recommended to book 24 hours in advance.
Local Tips
- Best time for photos: Between 4 pm and 5:30 pm, when the sun is low and the facades are lit in gold. Avoid midday; the light is too harsh and the shadows are ugly.
- Dress lightly: Cartagena is hot and humid. Wear cotton clothing, a hat, and sunscreen. Bring water, as there aren't many stalls in Manga.
- Don't enter without permission: Most houses are private residences. Respect the property. Only the Casa de los Gómez (hotel) and the Casa de los Fernández (foundation) allow entry.
- Talk to the neighbors: The elderly in the neighborhood are a source of stories. If you see someone sitting on a porch, greet them and ask about the house next door. They will tell you things not found in books.
- Bring cash: The Club de Pesca accepts cards, but the empanada stalls and La Casa de la Cerveza only take cash.
- Avoid event weekends: In December and January, Manga is full of tourists. Better to visit in the low season (February to May or September to November).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Walk Around Manga?
Yes, Manga is one of the safest neighborhoods in Cartagena. There is private security on several streets and the police patrol frequently. As anywhere, avoid walking alone at night on very deserted streets, but in general it is quiet.
Can I Take Photos Inside the Mansions?
Only at the Casa de los Gómez (hotel) and the Casa de los Fernández (foundation). The others are private residences, so you can only photograph the facades from the sidewalk. If you want to enter one, contact the Fundación Cultural Manga, which sometimes organizes guided visits with the owners' permission.
How Long Does the Full Route Take?
The walk between the five houses takes approximately 1 hour without stopping. If you stop to take photos, read the information, and rest, allow 2 to 3 hours. If you add coffee at the Club de Pesca, plan for 3 to 4 hours total.
Is There Any Mansion Open to the Public as a Museum?
There is no art deco museum in Manga, but the Casa de los Fernández functions as a cultural center and has temporary exhibitions. The Fundación Cultural Manga is working to open a house-museum in the future, but no date has been set yet.
What Is the Best Time of Year to Visit Manga?
December to April is the dry season, with less rain and more pleasant weather. But it is also high season, with more tourists. May and June are transition months, with fewer people and lower prices. In May 2026, for example, the weather is warm but bearable, and the mansions are less crowded.
Manga is not just a neighborhood. It is a living archive of a time when Cartagena was the most glamorous port in the Caribbean, where millionaires built palaces of cement and dreams. Every facade, every stained glass window, every cement palm tree tells a story of parties, smuggling, loves, and ghosts. The next time you come to Cartagena, don't just stay in the Historic Center. Walk over to Manga, look for the golden light at 4 pm, and discover what the sea hides.
Ready for the route? Download the interactive map with the 5 mansions and their secret history, and take it on your phone as you walk. Don't forget to bring your camera, your best curiosity, and a willingness to listen.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Art deco architecture in Cartagena reflects European influence on the Caribbean coast during the tourism industry boom in the 1920s and 1930s. This style is characterized by its geometric forms, vibrant colors, and an elegance that merges with local culture. The city's art deco mansions not only tell the story of a golden era but also represent the wealth of their owners, many of whom were successful merchants and influential families.
As you stroll through the streets of Cartagena, it is easy to get lost in the beauty of these structures, but there are details only a local could point out. The mansions, often camouflaged within the city's daily life, hold secrets that reveal the social and economic history of the region.
Remember that, although many of these mansions have been restored and preserved, some are in a state of abandonment, adding an air of mystery and nostalgia to their surroundings. Not all are open to the public, but you can admire them from the street and, if you are lucky, chat with neighbors like Don Luis, who has fascinating stories to share about his life in the neighborhood and the city's transformation over the years.