Introduction: The Other Face of Manga
Manga, in Cartagena, is known for its republican-style mansions, tree-lined streets, and the tranquil air of someone who lived through the neighborhood's golden age. But if you look closely, among the pastel-colored facades and wrought-iron balconies, there is another language running along the walls. Graffiti, murals, tags, and splashes of spray paint tell a story that doesn't appear in traditional tourist guides. This is the route of the Manga murals, a walking tour through the street art that has transformed the neighborhood into an open-air gallery since 2020, when several local artist collectives began to intervene in abandoned spaces and blind walls.
What to Do: The Route of the 5 Key Murals
I suggest a walk of about two hours, starting from the Plaza de la Trinidad in Manga (yes, the same one where the church is) and heading towards Manga Centro and Manga Alto. Bring water, sunscreen, and a camera with an extra battery. These are the murals you can't miss:
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1. "The Mangrove Girl" – Calle 20 # 18-45
This 2021 mural, by Cartagena-born artist Jhonatan "Kano", covers an entire wall of an abandoned house. It shows a girl with braids holding a lionfish in her hands, surrounded by mangrove roots. The message is clear: the connection between the neighborhood and the Ciénaga de la Virgen, an ecosystem that many residents of Manga ignore. Kano told me he painted this after a community cleanup of the canal, and that the girl is his niece. The mural is on the corner of Calle 20 with Carrera 18, right in front of a neighborhood store that sells ice-cold corozo juice.
2. "Brick Memories" – Carrera 17 # 21-10
A collaborative 2022 mural by the collective La Banda de la 19, made up of five graffiti artists from the neighborhood. It consists of three panels showing the evolution of Manga: a 19th-century wattle-and-daub house, a 1930s tram, and a modern building. Interestingly, they used mixed techniques: spray paint, acrylic, and even textured cement. It is on the side wall of the old Cine Manga, now converted into a supermarket. Neighbors say that before it was painted, that wall was a source of trash and bad smells. Now it's a meeting point for selfies.
3. "The Dancing Snail" – Calle 22 # 16-30
This is the most photogenic of them all. Painted in April 2023 by Bogotá-born artist based in Cartagena, María José "Majo", it depicts a giant snail with cumbia legs, surrounded by musical notes and cayenne flowers. Majo is known for mixing marine fauna with Afro-Colombian rhythms. The mural covers the entire facade of a closed hardware store. The store owners agreed to the intervention in exchange for the artist painting their business sign. A barter that worked: the hardware store now has more customers than before.
4. "Water Roots" – Carrera 19 # 22-50
An abstract mural by the Colectivo Tierra Firme, painted in January 2024. It features undulating shapes in blue, green, and turquoise that mimic the currents of the Caribbean Sea. But if you get close, you see that the lines are made with the names of Afro-descendant women from the neighborhood: Matilde, Petrona, Juana. The idea, according to the collective, was to make visible the laundresses and cooks who built Manga in the 19th century. It is at the entrance of the Parque de la Marina, a small space where the elderly play dominoes.
5. "The Guardian of the Corner" – Calle 21 with Carrera 18
This 2025 mural is the most recent and the most political. It was painted by Carlos "Charly", a graffiti artist from Manga who started at age 14 doing tags in the neighborhood. It shows a stray dog with human eyes, staring fixedly at the viewer. Next to it, a phrase in Spanish and English: "This neighborhood is not a museum, it's a home." Charly told me the dog represents those displaced by tourism, who find it increasingly difficult to live in Manga due to rising rents. The mural is on the wall of an abandoned warehouse now used as a bicycle workshop.
Where to Eat or Drink
After walking, hunger strikes. Here are three options near the route:
- El Café de la Plaza (Plaza de la Trinidad, Manga). A small place with tables on the sidewalk. They sell origin coffee from the Sierra Nevada and egg empanadas ($3,000 COP each). Open Monday to Saturday, 7am to 6pm.
- La Cevichería de Don Jorge (Calle 20 # 17-40). A street stall with plastic chairs. The fish ceviche costs $12,000 COP and comes with patacón. Open only Thursday to Sunday, 12pm to 5pm. They don't accept cards.
- Pizzería El Muro (Carrera 18 # 21-15). A place that opened in 2024, right in front of the "Brick Memories" mural. They sell wood-fired oven pizza from $18,000 COP. They have a vegan option. Open every day, 11am to 10pm.
Reference prices from May 2026. It is recommended to verify hours before visiting, especially on holidays.
How to Get There and Transportation
Manga is 15 minutes by bus from the Historic Center. Take any bus that says "Manga" or "Manga Centro" on Avenida Santander. The fare costs $2,300 COP. If you come by car, there is parking at Plaza de la Trinidad for $5,000 COP per hour. You can also walk from the Center if you like exercise: it's about 25 minutes across the Puente Román and Avenida del Lago.
For the mural route, I recommend doing it on foot or by bicycle. There are public bicycle stations at Plaza de la Trinidad and on Calle 20. The app is called "BiciCartagena" and the first hour is free.
Local Tips
- Ideal time: Between 8am and 10am, when the light is soft and there isn't too much sun. The murals look better without harsh shadows.
- Respect the neighbors: Don't go into house entrances or use direct flash on windows. Many residents are already tired of tourists interrupting their routine.
- Talk to the store owners: The murals have stories that aren't on the internet. Ask the man at the corner store who painted that wall. They'll tell you anecdotes that don't appear on social media.
- Don't touch the murals: Some are protected with varnish, but others aren't. Sweaty hands or sunscreen can damage the paint.
- Wear comfortable shoes: The streets of Manga have cobblestones and some are in poor condition. No flip-flops.
- Bring cash: Many food stalls and stores don't accept cards or Nequi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are the Manga murals legal?
Yes, most were authorized by the property owners or by the Cartagena Mayor's Office through the "Muros Vivos" program that started in 2020. However, some smaller graffiti (tags and quick pieces) are illegal and can be erased by the police. The large murals I mention in this guide are all legal and registered.
Can I take photos for social media without any issues?
Yes, as long as you don't block pedestrian traffic or use drones without permission. Local regulations prohibit flying drones in residential areas without authorization from the Civil Aeronautics. For portrait photos, don't use direct flash on the murals because it can damage the paint over time. And if you're going to post, tag the artists if you know their accounts. Most are on Instagram as @kano_cartagena, @labandadela19, @majo_arte, @tierrafirmecol, and @charly_graf.
Are there guided tours of the murals?
There is no official established tour, but some local guides offer walking tours of Manga. Ask at your hostel reception or search social media for the account @cartagenacallejera, which sometimes organizes free walks on weekends. You can also contact the Colectivo Tierra Firme directly on Instagram to coordinate a group visit.
Share a photo of your favorite mural in Manga with the hashtag #MangaMural and tag @malokal. We want to see how you see the neighborhood.