The street that whispers fortunes: when Manga was the neighborhood of millionaires
In 1920, a young Chilean architect named Luis Felipe Jaspe arrived in Cartagena with a portfolio under his arm and an obsession: to build houses that looked like Venetian palaces. No one believed him until Don Manuel "El Turco" Yidi, a fabric merchant who had made his fortune at the port, commissioned his mansion on Avenida San Martín. The house cost 80,000 pesos at the time — the equivalent of three cargo ships — and when it was finished in 1924, neighbors crowded the sidewalk to see the marble columns brought from Italy. That mansion, known today as the Casa Yidi, was the cornerstone of a neighborhood that would become the symbol of economic power in Cartagena during the 20th century.
Manga was not always this haven of tree-lined streets and stately homes. At the end of the 19th century, it was an unhealthy swamp where only fishermen and a few poor families lived. Everything changed when engineer Francisco de Paula Andrade drained the land in 1909 and the Banco de la República began lending money to merchants who wanted to build "European-style." By 1930, Manga was already home to the surnames that moved the economy of the Colombian Caribbean: the Vélez, the Martínez, the Zúñiga, and the Dávila. Today, in May 2026, walking its streets is like leafing through a photo album of a Cartagena that no longer exists, but still breathes between lime-and-stone walls.
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This article is not for the tourist seeking the sun of the Historic Center. It is for those who want to hear the echo of the footsteps of tycoons of tobacco, mining, and shipping. We are going to discover the houses that do not appear in traditional guides, the ones known only to 80-year-old neighbors and architects who come to study the Republican style that defines Manga.
What to do: an architectural tour of the tycoons' mansions
The Vélez House: the neo-Gothic that defied the tropics
On Calle 15 # 18-45, almost hidden by a century-old rubber tree, stands the Vélez House. Built in 1928 by engineer Manuel María Palacio for tobacco magnate José Vélez, this mansion is a rarity: it mixes pointed arches in neo-Gothic style with wrought-iron balconies brought from Birmingham. What few know is that the main facade has a sundial embedded in the wall, designed by a German astronomer who passed through Cartagena in 1930. Neighbors say Don José had it made to know the exact time without relying on his pocket watches, which were always running slow.
Fun fact: The house has a basement that connected to a secret tunnel leading to the Muelle de la Bodeguita. According to historical archives at the Archivo General de la Nación, that tunnel was used to smuggle tobacco without paying taxes during the Thousand Days' War.
- Address: Calle 15 # 18-45, Manga
- Current status: Private property, cannot enter. Can be viewed from the sidewalk.
- Visiting hours: Any time of day, though morning light (7am-9am) best highlights the neo-Gothic details.
- Price: Free (exterior visit)
The Martínez Villa: tropical art deco
Three blocks from Plaza de los Mártires, on Carrera 16 # 20-10, stands the Martínez Villa, one of the few houses in Cartagena that fuses art deco with Caribbean elements. It was built in 1935 for Luis Martínez, owner of the first coastal shipping fleet in the Colombian Caribbean. What catches the eye are the wooden latticework carved with wave and fish shapes, a tribute to the sea that gave him his fortune. The architect was Alberto Sídney, a Jamaican who had worked in Miami and brought to Cartagena a taste for straight lines and pastel colors.
Little-known fact: The villa has a vertical garden on the rear facade, planted in 1940 with species brought from India by an English botanist. Today, these plants — called Bengal bougainvilleas — still bloom every March, dyeing the wall an intense purple that locals call "the widow's mantle," because Don Luis's wife, Doña María de los Santos, used to sit and read under them after being widowed.
- Address: Carrera 16 # 20-10, Manga
- Current status: Fine dining restaurant. Can enter to eat or have coffee.
- Hours: Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-10pm. Reservations recommended.
- Reference price: Dishes from $45,000 COP (May 2026 prices)
The Dávila Palace: Spanish Renaissance in the Caribbean
If there is one house that justifies the nickname "Manga of the tycoons," it is the Dávila Palace, on Avenida San Martín # 15-30. Built between 1918 and 1922 for Pedro Dávila, owner of emerald mines in Boyacá, this building is an almost exact copy of the Palace of the Provincial Council of Barcelona, but adapted to Cartagena's climate with interior patios and 6-meter-high ceilings. The facade has 14 Ionic order columns, each hand-carved by Italian stonemasons Dávila brought over specifically. The most impressive feature is the ballroom, with a 12-meter stained glass window depicting the Battle of Boyacá, the work of artist Ricardo Acevedo Bernal.
Fun fact: During the 1950s, the palace was the headquarters of the Sociedad de Mejoras Públicas de Cartagena, and the agreement to build the Hotel Caribe was signed there. Neighbors still remember the costume parties organized by Doña Josefina Dávila, where guests arrived by boat from the Historic Center and docked at a private pier that is now a parking lot.
- Address: Avenida San Martín # 15-30, Manga
- Current status: Headquarters of a cultural foundation. Open to the public by appointment.
- Hours: Guided tours on Saturdays at 10am and 3pm. Call to confirm.
- Reference price: $15,000 COP per person (suggested donation)
The Zúñiga House: the eclecticism of a visionary
On Calle 17 # 19-30, a house that looks like it came out of a fairy tale: it mixes Moorish style in the arches, Victorian on the balconies, and Colonial in the entrance hall. This is the Zúñiga House, built in 1931 for Antonio Zúñiga, a coffee merchant who traveled the world and wanted to capture in his home all the styles he had seen. The result is a harmonious chaos that architects call "tropical eclecticism." The most valuable features are the Talavera tiles decorating the entrance, brought from Puebla, Mexico, by ship.
Little-known fact: The house has a freshwater well in the backyard, something extremely rare on a peninsula surrounded by saltwater. Don Antonio had it drilled because he did not trust the public aqueduct, and the well still works. Neighbors claim the water has "miraculous" digestive properties, although no scientific study supports this.
- Address: Calle 17 # 19-30, Manga
- Current status: Boutique hotel with 5 rooms. The patio and lobby can be visited free of charge.
- Hours: Open 24 hours for guests; external visits from 9am to 6pm.
- Reference price: Rooms from $250,000 COP per night (May 2026 prices)
The Vélez House (second generation): the modernism that arrived late
On Carrera 18 # 16-50, a house that breaks with everything before it: straight lines, floor-to-ceiling windows, and an unadorned concrete facade. This is the Vélez House (second generation), built in 1955 for the son of the tobacco magnate, Jorge Vélez, who studied architecture at Bauhaus and wanted to apply the International Style in Cartagena. Neighbors call it "the shoebox," but critics consider it a gem of Caribbean modernism. The architect was Rogelio Salmona, then a 26-year-old who would later become famous for his works in Bogotá.
Fun fact: The house has a rooftop garden, with plants growing directly on the concrete. Salmona designed a gravity-fed irrigation system that still works, using rainwater stored in an underground tank. It was one of the first ecological houses in Colombia, decades before the term existed.
- Address: Carrera 18 # 16-50, Manga
- Current status: Private residence. Cannot enter, but the facade is visible from the street.
- Hours: Any time. Best at sunset, when light filters through the windows.
- Price: Free
Where to eat or drink: stops to recharge between mansions
El Café de la Plaza
On Plaza de los Mártires, right in front of the Martínez Villa, this café has been open since 1945. The current owners, grandchildren of the founder, serve strong black coffee with pan de bono and coastal cheese. The place is a meeting point for architects and students from the University of Cartagena, who come to sketch the facades. Order the coffee with goat's milk, a specialty they learned from a Syrian shepherd who lived in Manga in the 1950s.
- Address: Plaza de los Mártires # 17-10, Manga
- Hours: Monday to Saturday, 7am-8pm; Sundays, 8am-12pm
- Reference price: Coffee from $3,500 COP
La Tienda de Don Chucho
Half a block from the Dávila Palace, on Avenida San Martín # 16-20, this neighborhood store has been open since 1920. Don Jesús "Chucho" Martínez, 82, is the owner and the best unofficial guide to Manga. If he takes a liking to you, he'll tell you stories of when the tycoons arrived on horseback and he sold them cigars. Try the arepas de huevo made by his wife, Doña Rosa, and ask him about the ghost of the Zúñiga House.
- Address: Avenida San Martín # 16-20, Manga
- Hours: Monday to Sunday, 6am-9pm
- Reference price: Arepa de huevo from $4,000 COP
El Restaurante del Palacio
Inside the Martínez Villa, this restaurant occupies what was the family's main dining room. It serves Caribbean fusion cuisine with Mediterranean influences. The mango and shrimp ceviche is the star dish, and the coconut and tamarind dessert is an original recipe from Doña María de los Santos. Ideal for a long meal after the architectural tour.
- Address: Carrera 16 # 20-10, Manga (inside the Martínez Villa)
- Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-10pm
- Reference price: Main courses from $45,000 COP (May 2026 prices)
- Reservation: Recommended, especially on weekends
How to get there and transportation
By bus from the Historic Center
From Plaza de la Aduana or the Torre del Reloj, take any bus that says "Manga" or "Bocagrande." The most direct route is the Ruta 7, which runs every 10 minutes. The trip takes about 15 minutes and costs $2,700 COP (reference price for May 2026). Get off at the Plaza de los Mártires stop, which is the heart of the neighborhood.
By taxi or Uber
From anywhere in Cartagena, a taxi to Manga costs between $10,000 and $15,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off at Avenida San Martín or Plaza de los Mártires. Uber works well in the area, with similar fares. Avoid taxis without a meter; negotiate the price before getting in.
Walking from the Historic Center
If you like walking, Manga is only a 20-minute walk from the Torre del Reloj. Cross the Puente Román (the one with the yellow arches) and continue straight along Avenida del Lago. It is a safe walk during the day, but avoid it after 8pm if you don't know the area.
By bicycle
There are several public bicycle stations in Manga, especially near Plaza de los Mártires. Rental costs $2,000 COP per hour. It is the best way to explore the neighborhood's narrow streets and stop at each mansion.
Local tips
Best time to visit
Between 7am and 9am, the sunlight hits the facades on Avenida San Martín head-on, highlighting the details of the columns and stained glass. Also, there is less traffic at that hour, and neighbors bring their chairs out to the sidewalk to enjoy the breeze. If you come in the afternoon, do so after 4pm, when the sun turns golden and shadows lengthen the profiles of the houses.
Dress for the heat
Manga is a neighborhood of tree-lined streets, but the Caribbean sun is relentless. Wear light cotton or linen clothing, comfortable walking shoes, and bring a water bottle. The sombrero vueltiao is not just a souvenir: locals wear it because it protects from the sun and lets the head breathe.
Talk to the locals
The residents of Manga, especially those over 70, are a living encyclopedia. If you see someone sitting on their doorstep, greet them and ask about the neighborhood's history. Doña Carmen de la Ossa, 84, lives on Calle 16 # 18-40 and still remembers when the tycoons held horse races on Avenida San Martín. Don't be shy: people here are friendly and will tell you stories you won't find in any book.
Don't miss Plaza de los Mártires
This square, in the center of Manga, is the neighborhood's meeting point. It has a statue of Simón Bolívar and a music kiosk where wind bands play on Sundays. It is the perfect place to sit, rest, and observe local life. On weekends, there is a small market for crafts and fruit.
Download the 'Manga Houses with History' route
To not miss a single mansion, download our free PDF which includes a detailed map of the 10 emblematic houses, QR codes linking to audio stories narrated by neighbors, and historical photographs compared with current ones.
Historical or contextual introduction
The history of the 20th century tycoons' houses in Cartagena is a testament to the economic and cultural boom the city experienced during that era. Luis Felipe Jaspe, with his architectural vision, not only built homes but also left a mark that reflects the fusion of styles and the richness of the Caribbean environment. These mansions, mostly located in privileged areas, were symbols of power and status, and many of them preserve details that narrate the lives of their former owners.
During the 20th century, Cartagena became a meeting point for merchants, artists, and aristocrats who sought not only the warm climate but also a refuge where opulence manifested itself in every corner. The influence of the architectural currents of the time, combined with the colonial heritage, gave rise to constructions that are still admired today for their beauty and uniqueness.
An interesting fact is that many of these houses have been restored and now house restaurants, museums, and boutique hotels, allowing visitors not only to admire them from the outside but also to experience the history they contain. Below are some places you cannot miss:
Frequently asked questions
What are the characteristics of the 20th century tycoons' houses in Cartagena?
The 20th century tycoons' houses in Cartagena stand out for their eclectic architecture, combining local and European influences. Many of them feature wrought-iron balconies, high ceilings, and interior patios, reflecting the wealth and lifestyle of their former owners. The mix of styles such as neoclassical and baroque is also common, creating a unique visual appeal.
Can these houses be visited?
Some of these houses are private residences, but others have been converted into museums or cultural centers. It is advisable to check hours and availability before planning a visit. A notable example is the Casa Museo Rafael Núñez, which offers a glimpse into the life of one of Colombia's presidents and showcases elements of the architecture of the time.
What is the best time to visit Cartagena and explore these houses?
The best time to visit Cartagena is between December and April, when the weather is drier and temperatures are pleasant. During this time, you can also enjoy local festivals like the Feria de las Flores, which celebrates Cartagena's culture and can lead you to several of these historic houses.
Where can I learn more about the history of these houses?
Visiting the Museo Histórico de Cartagena is an excellent way to delve into the history of the city and its tycoons. Additionally, some local guides offer specialized tours that include fascinating stories about the families who lived in these houses and their impact on Cartagena's culture.