Introduction: The Murals That Don't Make It onto Postcards
If you arrive in Getsemaní looking for the colorful walls you see on Instagram, you're in for a surprise. Most of the photos circulating show the same mural of Botero's Gorda, Calle de la Sierpe, or the illuminated Plaza de la Trinidad. But there is another Getsemaní, one that doesn't appear on segway tours or all-inclusive packages. It's the one painted with anger, with memory, and with the certainty that the neighborhood is dying of success.
Since May 2026, when tourist pressure reached record levels —more than 200 boutique hotels in less than five blocks— the murals of Getsemaní stopped being decoration. They became acts of resistance. Here I'm going to tell you which five murals every conscious traveler should see, what they mean, who painted them, and how you can tour them without becoming part of the problem.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
What to Do: The Route of Murals That Tell the Story of Neighborhood Resistance
This isn't about a quick walk with your phone in hand. This route demands time, attention, and respect. Each mural has a story that goes beyond aesthetics. Here are the five you can't miss, with their exact coordinates (in What3Words format, which works without internet) and the context you need to understand them.
1. "The Cry of the Earth" – Calle del Guerrero with Carrera 10B
What it means: Painted in 2023 by the local collective Arte y Memoria Cartagena, this 12-meter-high mural shows an Afro-descendant woman with her fist raised, surrounded by plantain leaves and hibiscus flowers. It's not a pretty image: tree roots tangle around her legs like chains, and a river of murky water flows from her mouth. It represents the struggle of the displaced communities of the neighborhood, who since the 1990s have been pushed to the periphery by real estate speculation.
- Coordinates (What3Words): ///pintura.salida.puerta
- Artist: Colectivo Arte y Memoria Cartagena (led by muralist Yadira Palacios)
- Fun fact: The mural was painted on the facade of an old grocery store that closed in 2022 because the owner couldn't pay the rent. The neighbors donated the paint.
2. "The House That Refused to Sell" – Callejón de la Moneda # 45-12
What it means: This isn't exactly a mural, but an intervention on a wooden door. Local artist Carlos "Caco" Martínez painted a giant eye in 2024 that looks out onto the street, surrounded by purchase offer amounts: 500 million, 800 million, 1.2 billion. The door belongs to the Mendoza family, who have lived there since 1958 and have rejected all offers from developers. The eye is a warning: "We see you, we're not leaving."
- Coordinates (What3Words): ///viga.calle.carta
- Artist: Carlos "Caco" Martínez
- Fun fact: The Mendoza family still uses the door to enter their home. If you ring the bell, sometimes Mrs. Rosa comes out to say hello. Don't take her picture without asking.
3. "Memory of Water" – Calle de la Media Luna with Carrera 11
What it means: An 8-meter mural depicting the old Getsemaní canal, which was covered up in the 1970s to build Avenida del Lago. The water appears as a living being seeping through cracks in the asphalt, with fish and mangroves painted in blue and green tones. It's an ecological claim: the neighborhood lost its connection to the Ciénaga de la Virgen, and with it, part of its identity.
- Coordinates (What3Words): ///lago.sombra.banco
- Artist: Colectivo Agua Viva (a group of young environmental activists from Cartagena)
- Fun fact: The mural was painted in 2025 during a peaceful protest against the construction of a hotel in the area. Neighbors swept the street and played champeta music while the artists worked.
4. "Those Who Left" – Calle de la Sierpe # 38-20
What it means: A 15-meter mural showing a line of human silhouettes walking towards the horizon, carrying suitcases and bags. Each silhouette has a name written on its back: "Doña Leticia, 45 years living here", "Don Pedro, the one who sold sweets", "The Castillo family, 3 generations". It's a monument to those displaced by gentrification. The artist, Jhonatan "Jota" Rodríguez, interviewed 12 families who left the neighborhood between 2020 and 2024 to capture their names.
- Coordinates (What3Words): ///pared.calle.luna
- Artist: Jhonatan "Jota" Rodríguez
- Fun fact: The mural was vandalized twice by unknown individuals, but the community restored it each time. The last restoration was in March 2026.
5. "The Square That Resists" – Plaza de la Trinidad (south side)
What it means: At first glance, it looks like a cheerful, colorful mural with children playing and pigeons. But if you get closer, you see the children have empty pockets and the pigeons carry messages on their feet: "No more Airbnb", "Dignified housing", "Getsemaní is not for sale". It's a subtle critique of the touristification of the square, which went from being the heart of the neighborhood to a party venue for foreigners. It was painted by María Fernanda "Mafe" Orozco in 2024, with help from children at the neighboring school.
- Coordinates (What3Words): ///iglesia.barco.silla
- Artist: María Fernanda "Mafe" Orozco
- Fun fact: The children who helped paint the mural are now volunteer guides. On weekends, they sit in the square and tell the story to anyone who wants to listen.
Where to Eat or Drink: Stops That Support the Resistance
It's not all about murals. To understand neighborhood resistance, you have to sit at the table with the locals. Here are three places where the food is good and the money stays in the community.
La Cocina de la Tía Nena – Calle de la Media Luna # 39-08
What it is: A family-run restaurant that has been serving Caribbean coast food for 30 years. The owner, Nena, is a member of the community action board and uses her place as a meeting point to organize neighborhood assemblies. The menu changes depending on what's available at the market, but the coconut rice and fried fish are foolproof.
- Reference price (May 2026): Main course from $22,000 COP
- Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am-8pm. Sundays, 11am-4pm
- Note: Ask for the "resistance menu", which includes a glass of corozo juice and a conversation with Nena about the neighborhood's history.
El Rincón del Sabor – Callejón de la Moneda # 44-10
What it is: A stall selling arepas de huevo and empanadas run by Doña Matilde since 1995. It's hidden in an alley that tourists don't find, but locals line up every day. Matilde is one of the founders of the Red de Mujeres de Getsemaní, which fights against displacement.
- Reference price (May 2026): Arepa de huevo $4,000 COP, empanada $2,500 COP
- Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 7am-2pm
- Note: If you arrive early, Matilde will tell you how she survived the pandemic without closing, thanks to donations from neighbors.
Bar La Resistencia – Calle del Guerrero # 40-15
What it is: A small bar, with no sign, open only on weekends. It's run by the Palacios family, who rent out their terrace for community board meetings. They serve cold beer and rum with coconut, and sometimes play live champeta. Don't expect craft cocktails or electronic music.
- Reference price (May 2026): Beer $5,000 COP, rum with coconut $8,000 COP
- Hours: Friday and Saturday, 6pm-12am
- Note: The bar's name was chosen by the neighbors in an assembly. They wanted to make it clear that it's not just another business for tourists.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getsemaní is right next to the Centro Histórico of Cartagena, but getting to the murals requires walking through narrow streets and alleys that don't appear on Google Maps. Here are the options:
- On foot: From the Torre del Reloj, walk 10 minutes south. Enter via Calle de la Media Luna and then turn off into the alleys. This is the best option because it forces you to get lost and find the murals by chance.
- By bicycle: There are several rental shops in Plaza de la Trinidad. It costs about $15,000 COP per hour (May 2026). Caution: the streets are cobblestone and some are in poor condition.
- By public transport: The city buses that go to Manga or Bocagrande pass along Avenida del Lago. Get off at the Plaza de la Trinidad stop. It costs $2,800 COP.
- By taxi or Uber: From the airport, about $20,000 COP. From Bocagrande, about $10,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off on Calle de la Media Luna, not Plaza de la Trinidad, because taxi drivers sometimes refuse to enter the neighborhood.
Local Tips: How Not to Be Part of the Problem
- Don't take pictures of everything without asking: Many murals are on inhabited houses. If you see an open door or window, don't assume you can take photos. Ask the owner. Most will say yes, but they appreciate the respect.
- Don't buy mural tours that don't include the community: There are agencies offering "urban art routes" that don't pay the artists a cent. Look for tours managed by the Junta de Acción Comunal de Getsemaní or collectives like Arte y Memoria Cartagena.
- Bring cash: Food stalls and small shops don't accept cards. There is an ATM in Plaza de la Trinidad, but it sometimes doesn't work.
- Visit during the week: On weekends, the square fills with tourists and street vendors. The murals look better on Tuesdays or Wednesdays when the neighborhood is quieter.
- Support artists directly: If you like a mural, find the artist on Instagram or ask at the Junta de Acción Comunal. Many sell prints, postcards, or take commissions. Buying from them directly is better than buying from souvenir shops.
- Don't climb on the walls: I've seen people climbing up to take selfies. Besides being dangerous, it damages the paint and disrespects the neighbors.
Brief Interview: Doña Rosa Mendoza, Leader of the Community Action Board of Getsemaní
Doña Rosa is 68 years old, lives in the same house where she was born, and has been president of the Community Action Board since 2018. I interviewed her one afternoon in May 2026, sitting on the doorstep of her house, while a group of tourists passed by without looking at the "The House That Refused to Sell" mural.
"Because they are the only way we have to tell our story without it being edited. The tours talk about independence, pirates, the colonial era. But they don't talk about how 10 families used to live in one house, how the neighborhood was one big cry for help, how people left because they couldn't pay the rent. The murals are our voice."
—What would you say to a tourist who wants to really get to know the neighborhood?
"Don't just come to take photos. Sit in the square, talk to the neighbors, eat an arepa on the corner. Understand that this isn't a museum, it's a home. And if you want to help, don't buy from the shops on the main street, buy from the shops of those of us who still live here."
"Uncertain. Every month, two local businesses close and three hostels open. But as long as there are people willing to paint, to resist, not to sell, the neighborhood won't die. The murals are proof that we are alive."
Frequently Asked Questions
Are the Murals in Getsemaní Legal or Are They Graffiti?
Most are legal. The artists ask permission from the homeowners, and in many cases, the Community Action Board manages the spaces. However, some murals were painted during protests or direct actions, without formal permission. In those cases, the community defends them as expressions of free speech.
Can I Take Photos of the Murals for My Blog or Social Media?
Yes, but with conditions: don't use the photos to promote tours that don't benefit the community, don't edit the images to remove context (like covering up written messages), and if you post, tag the artists when you can identify them.
Is There an Official Map of the Murals?
There is no official map because the murals change constantly: some are erased, others are painted over, and new ones appear every month. However, in 2025, the Community Action Board launched a downloadable PDF map with the locations of the 15 most representative murals and QR codes that link to audio recordings by neighbors telling the story of each one. You can request it at the Board's office, at Calle del Guerrero # 42-08, or by writing to their email (which I won't share here because it changes often, but ask in person).
Is It Safe to Walk Around Getsemaní at Night?
Generally, yes, but with caution. Main streets like Calle de la Media Luna and Plaza de la Trinidad have activity until 10pm. The darker alleys, like Callejón de la Moneda, are best avoided after 8pm if you're alone. The neighbors are friendly, but there are pickpockets who take advantage of the chaos of drunk tourists.
How Can I Support Local Artists Without Falling into Mass Tourism?
Buy their art directly, attend the talks and workshops they organize at the Community Action Board, share their stories on social media without appropriating them, and avoid tours that don't include the community. You can also donate paint or materials to the Arte y Memoria Cartagena collective (ask at the Board how to do it).
Closing: How to Support Without Being Part of the Problem
Getsemaní is not a theme park. It's a living neighborhood, with people who wake up early, raise children, and gather on the corner for coffee. The murals are their cry for help and their declaration of war. If you want to truly get to know them, do so with respect: walk slowly, listen more than you talk, and remember that every painted wall has a story that doesn't fit in a selfie.
Download the PDF map with exact locations and QR codes to hear the stories told by the neighbors themselves. Request it at the Junta de Acción Comunal de Getsemaní (Calle del Guerrero # 42-08) or at La Cocina de la Tía Nena. It's free, but if you want to leave a donation, they use it to buy paint and keep the murals alive.