Historical or contextual introduction
If you walk from the Historic Center northwards, passing the Parque de la Marina and skirting the wall, you reach El Cabrero. This neighborhood, one of the oldest in Cartagena outside the walled city, has a history that few tourists know. Founded at the beginning of the 20th century as a neighborhood for fishermen and port workers, its narrow streets and single-story houses hold a secret that doesn't appear in conventional travel guides: its patios.
While the patios of the Historic Center and Getsemaní are cared for, restored, and open to tourism with entrance fees around $15,000 COP, the patios of El Cabrero are something else. They are living spaces, without intervention, where real people hang laundry, raise chickens, or have a carpentry workshop. In May 2026, as I write this, real estate speculation is already knocking on the neighborhood's doors, but there is still time to capture that authenticity that street photographers seek.
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What makes these patios unique is not the perfect colonial architecture, but the combination of faded colors, solid wooden doors with wrought iron locks, and the Caribbean light that filters through the clay tiles. Here there are no "no photography" signs or guides with loudspeakers. There are ladies who offer you panela water if they see you sweating with your camera.
What to do
The 5 unmissable patios of El Cabrero
I have walked the neighborhood for weeks, talking to neighbors and noting down coordinates. These are the patios that every photographer should visit. Don't expect to find nameplates; here the addresses are approximate and the owners will receive you with distrust at first, but with a smile after you explain that you are documenting the neighborhood.
- Patio of the Indigo Blue Door (Calle 38 #19-45, between Cra 19 and 20): This door, a deep blue reminiscent of the indigo used to dye clothes in colonial times, belongs to the house of Mrs. Matilde, a 78-year-old widow who raises parakeets in her patio. The ideal light is between 8:30 and 9:30 am, when the sun hits head-on and the blue intensifies. The inner patio has a stone cistern dating from 1920.
- Patio of the Emerald Green Door (Cra 20 #37-12): The green here is not the military green of the doors in the Center. It is a sun-faded emerald green, with wood grain that looks hand-painted. Don José, a 65-year-old cabinetmaker, works in his workshop at the back of the patio. Best time: 4:00 pm, when the oblique light bounces off the wood dust and creates an almost mystical effect.
- Patio of the Ochre Door (Calle 37 #19-32): Ochre, that earthy color that seems taken from the mud houses of the desert, is the rarest in Cartagena. This door belongs to the Mendoza family, who have been selling traditional sweets from their home for three generations. The light at 11:00 am creates long shadows that make the wood texture look like leather.
- Patio of the Rust Red Door (Cra 19 #38-22): It is not a bright red; it is a red that the saltpeter and sun have turned to rust, almost orange. The house belongs to Doña Carmen, who has a small chicken coop in the backyard. The contrast of the faded red with the green of the mango trees growing over the wall is perfect for detail photography.
- Patio of the Peeling White Door (Calle 38 #19-50): The white here is not pure white. It is a white that peels in layers, revealing the light blue of a previous paint. The house has been abandoned since 2018, but the door still stands. It is the most photogenic patio for texture and abstraction shots. The light at 3:00 pm highlights every crack and every layer of paint.
Light technique for each time of day
The light in Cartagena is treacherous. The midday sun burns colors and flattens shadows. But in El Cabrero, with its narrow streets and half-roofed patios, there are magical hours:
- 6:00 am - 7:30 am (Blue light): The golden hour here is more blue than gold. The clear sky and humidity create a soft light that bathes the doors in a cool tone. Ideal for general atmosphere shots of the neighborhood, with few people on the street.
- 8:30 am - 10:00 am (Front light): The sun starts hitting the east-facing doors head-on. This is the time to capture the pure colors of the indigo blue and emerald green doors. Use a polarizer if you have one, to reduce reflections from the sun on the varnished wood.
- 11:00 am - 12:00 pm (Zenith light): The sun is overhead, but the eaves of the houses create deep shadows on the upper part of the doors. Take advantage to take half-body shots of people peeking out, with their faces lit and the background dark.
- 2:00 pm - 3:30 pm (Side light): The sun moves to the west and creates long shadows that cross the streets. This is the best time for texture shots: the wood grain, the cracks in the paint, the dust in the air.
- 4:30 pm - 5:30 pm (Oblique light): The golden light of the sunset filters through the cracks of the half-open doors. If you are lucky, you will see rays of light illuminating the dust or the smoke from a wood-burning stove. This is the time for interior patio shots, if the owners let you in.
Contrast with the tourist patios of the walled city
The patios of the Historic Center, like those of the Palacio de la Inquisición or the Casa de la Aduana, are restored jewels with million-dollar budgets. They have manicured gardens, marble fountains, and guides who explain the history in English. But they are stages, sets for the tourist. In El Cabrero, the patios are functional. Here people wash clothes in cement sinks, raise animals, and repair old furniture. The beauty is not in perfection, but in the mark of daily use.
While in the Center you pay $20,000 COP to enter an "Instagrammable" patio, in El Cabrero you can spend the whole morning photographing without spending a peso. You just need courtesy: ask permission, smile, and if they offer you a little coffee, accept it. The neighbors are distrustful at first, but when they see that you are not a seller or a thief, they open up like the doors of their houses.
Where to eat or drink
After a morning of photographing, hunger strikes. El Cabrero does not have white-tablecloth restaurants, but it does have street food stalls and neighborhood stores where you can eat like a local.
- Doña Lucía's arepa stall (Calle 37 with Cra 20, in front of the Donde Juan store): Freshly fried egg arepas, with hogao and suero costeño. Each arepa costs $3,500 COP. Open from 6:00 am to 11:00 am, or until the dough runs out.
- El Buen Sabor Store (Cra 19 #38-10): They sell set lunches: rice, beans, stewed meat or fried fish, and corozo juice. The menu costs $12,000 COP and changes daily. They are open from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm.
- Juice stall on the corner of Calle 38 and Cra 20: A wooden cart where Don Pedro sells zapote, lulo, passion fruit, and loquat juices. Each large glass costs $4,000 COP. Ideal for hydrating between photo shots.
- El Cabrero Bakery (Calle 37 #19-28): Yuca bread, almojábanas, and pandebono. They also sell drip coffee for $1,500 COP. Open from 5:00 am to 8:00 pm.
If you want something more formal, walk 10 minutes south to Avenida Santander, where there are restaurants like La Cevichería or El Bistro de la Muralla, but prices go up to $35,000 COP per dish. In El Cabrero, you eat cheap and well, but without luxuries.
How to get there and transportation
El Cabrero is adjacent to the Historic Center, north of the walled city. Getting there is simple:
- On foot from the Center: Leave the Center through the Puerta del Reloj, walk north along the Camellón de los Mártires (the avenue that borders the wall). In 15 minutes you reach the Parque de la Marina, which is the southern entrance to El Cabrero. Continue straight on Calle 38 and you are in the neighborhood.
- By bus: Take any bus that says "El Cabrero" or "Manga" from Avenida Venezuela or Avenida San Martín. The fare is $2,300 COP. Get off at the stop on Calle 38 with Cra 19.
- By taxi or Uber: From Bocagrande, it costs about $10,000 COP. From the Center, $7,000 COP. Ask to be dropped off at Calle 38 with Cra 20.
- By bicycle: There are public bicycles at the Parque de la Marina. The neighborhood is flat and easy to explore by bike.
The neighborhood is safe during the day, but as in any area of Cartagena, avoid walking alone after 8:00 pm, especially if you are carrying visible photography equipment.
Local tips
- Always ask permission: Before photographing a door or a patio, greet whoever is at the entrance. Say something like "Good morning, may I take a photo of your door? It's very beautiful." 90% of the time they will say yes. For the remaining 10%, respect their decision.
- Bring cash: In El Cabrero, they don't accept credit cards or Nequi everywhere. The food stalls and stores work with bills of $1,000, $2,000, and $5,000 COP.
- Wear light clothing and closed-toe shoes: The heat in May 2026 exceeds 32°C with a heat index of 38°C. The streets are cobblestone or dirt, and there are stray dogs that can get scared if you run. Closed-toe shoes protect you from broken glass and from the dogs if they approach you.
- Don't use flash in the inner patios: Natural light is part of the magic. Flash flattens colors and scares the animals. If you need more light, increase the ISO or use a small tripod.
- Talk to the neighbors: Ask them about the history of the neighborhood. Doña Matilde, from the blue patio, will tell you that her grandfather built the house in 1925 with stones brought from the island of Barú. Don José will explain how the wood in his workshop comes from mahogany trees that almost no longer exist.
- Bring water and a hat: There aren't many stores on the interior streets. A 1.5-liter bottle of water will last you two hours under the sun.
- Respect siesta hours: Between 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm, many neighbors close their doors and sleep. Do not knock on doors or make noise. Take the opportunity to photograph the empty streets or rest in the shade.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to visit El Cabrero with expensive photography equipment?
Yes, during the day it is safe, but with caution. Avoid showing your camera ostentatiously. Carry it in a discreet backpack and take it out only when you are going to photograph. Do not stop on lonely corners to review your photos. If someone approaches you suspiciously, go into a store or the house of a neighbor you already know. The residents themselves will help you if they see you are in trouble.
Can I enter the patios without permission?
No. All the patios I mention are private properties. Even if the doors are ajar, you must ask permission before crossing the threshold. If the owner is not there, do not enter. The trust of the neighbors is fragile and a misunderstanding can ruin the relationship. If you are invited in, take off your shoes if you see the house has a tiled floor, and do not touch anything without asking.
What is the best time of year to photograph the patios?
The light is good all year round, but the dry season (December to April) has clearer skies and fewer clouds, which gives more saturated colors. In May, like now, the rains begin, but the clouds can create a diffuse light that is ideal for texture photos. Avoid October and November, which are the rainiest months and the streets get flooded.
Is there any event or festival in El Cabrero that I can photograph?
There are no big festivals, but in December the neighbors decorate their doors with lanterns and flowers for the Novena de Aguinaldos. Also during Holy Week, some families open their patios for small processions. Ask at the El Buen Sabor store if there is any upcoming celebration.
Can I share the photos on social media without legal issues?
Yes, as long as you do not use the images for commercial purposes without permission. If you are going to sell the photos or use them in a campaign, you need a signed model release from the owners of the patios and the people who appear. For personal use or on social media, there is no problem, but tag the neighbors if they asked you to send them the photos. Use the hashtag #PatiosCabrero so other photographers can find your work.