Introduction to the Singing Silence
If you walk through El Cabrero on a Tuesday at three in the afternoon, the first thing that hits you is the silence. It is not the awkward silence of a dead place, but that of a neighborhood that keeps secrets within its lime-and-stone walls. The cobblestone streets, the low houses with worn wooden doors, the salty air coming from the bay. Everything seems frozen. But if you stand still long enough, you start to hear it: a distant accordion, a voice rasping a décima, the dry thud of a verse against the wind.
El Cabrero is not a postcard neighborhood or one for Instagram photos. It is the place where accordion music and improvised verses —the coplas— found their cradle in Cartagena. There is no stage or neon lights here. The trova happens on street corners, in inner courtyards, at the church door. And if you don't know where to look, you'll miss it.
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I met Don Eulalio, a 73-year-old troubadour who has lived in the same house on Calle de la Media Luna for 50 years. He welcomed me with black coffee and a vueltiao hat he wears even to take out the trash. "Look," he told me, "the first copla sung in this neighborhood was in 1923, on the corner of the Iglesia de San Roque. A man named Pedro 'Mandinga' stood in front of the door and sang to a woman who had stood him up. Since then, that corner is sacred."
Don Eulalio is one of the few who still keep the tradition of décimas alive. There are no shows, no ticket sales. He arrives on Saturdays at 6 p.m. at the same corner, sits on a plastic chair, and starts to sing. People peek out, children sit on the ground, and the whole neighborhood becomes an open-air theater.
This article is not a typical tourist guide. It is an invitation to listen. To prick up your ears. To find the exact spots where the silence breaks and the copla appears. Because El Cabrero is not seen: it is heard.
What to Do: The Map of Sounds
In El Cabrero there are no museums or galleries. There are no craft shops or fancy restaurants. What there is, is a neighborhood that breathes accordion music and improvised verses. To experience it, you have to move with your ears open. Here are the key points, what Don Eulalio calls "the singing corners."
The Corner of Décimas (Iglesia de San Roque)
This is the epicenter. The corner of the Iglesia de San Roque, on Calle de la Media Luna with Carrera 3, is where the tradition of coplas was born in El Cabrero. According to Don Eulalio, Pedro "Mandinga" stood here in 1923 to sing his heartbreak. Today, on Saturdays at 6 p.m., local troubadours gather to improvise verses. It is not an organized event: they simply arrive, sit down, and start singing. If you arrive early, you can ask them to dedicate a copla to you. The price is voluntary —a tip of 5,000 or 10,000 COP is fine— but they do it for the love of the art.
Tip: bring a folding chair or a cushion to sit on the ground. The sessions can last up to two hours. And don't forget to record a snippet on your phone: the verses are unique, they are never repeated.
Solar de la Casa de la Cultura (Calle del Pozo)
Three blocks from the church, at Calle del Pozo #4-12, is the Solar de la Casa de la Cultura. It is an inner courtyard with a zinc roof and bahareque walls where workshops on décimas and accordion are held. Here, on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 4 to 6 p.m., Don Eulalio and other elders teach the neighborhood children how to rhyme. The atmosphere is family-friendly: the children sit on wooden benches, the grandparents correct them, and at the end there is always a round of improvised coplas.
The best part is that you can enter without any problem. Just knock on the wooden door and say you are going to see the workshop. There is no cost, but if you want to support, you can buy a soda or a pack of cookies for the children. As of May 2026, the workshop is still active and looking for volunteers who want to share their knowledge of music.
Calle de la Media Luna: The Corridor of Verses
This street is the heart of the neighborhood. It connects the church with the Casa de la Cultura and is full of houses with coplas painted as graffiti on their facades. They are not tag graffiti, but complete verses painted with a thick brush. For example, on the facade of house #3-18, you can read: "El Cabrero is not made of cardboard, / it has an accordion and a heart". It is a small open-air museum that changes every year, when the local troubadours renew the verses.
Walk slowly, read each one. If you find one you like, take a photo and ask a neighbor who wrote it. Most likely, they will take you to the author's house and invite you for coffee.
El Cabrero Pier: The Sound of the Wind
At the end of Calle de la Media Luna, you reach the El Cabrero pier. It is not a tourist pier, but a fishermen's dock. Here the sound changes: the accordion gives way to the creaking of boats, the crash of waves against the wood, the voices of fishermen singing as they mend their nets. It is a rawer, less rehearsed sound, but just as authentic.
If you are lucky, a fisherman will tell you the legend that the first copla in the neighborhood was not born at the church, but here, at the pier, when a fisherman named José "Candela" sang to a mermaid. Don Eulalio laughs when I mention it: "That's a fisherman's tale, but it sounds nice."
Where to Eat or Drink: The Food of the Trova
In El Cabrero there are no restaurants with tablecloths or menus in English. Food is made in homes and sold at doorways. But there are three places every visitor should try, because they are part of the copla ritual.
La cocina de Doña Chila (Calle del Pozo #4-08)
Doña Chila has been cooking since 5 in the morning. Her specialty are arepas de huevo with suero costeño, but what makes her famous in the neighborhood is her mote de queso. The dish costs 12,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026) and comes with a glass of panela water. Doña Chila serves at her doorstep, on a plastic table, and while she cooks, she hums coplas. If you ask her, she will sing one for you while she serves you. Open Monday to Saturday, from 6am to 2pm.
La tienda de Don Toño (Calle de la Media Luna #3-22)
Don Toño sells cold beer and sodas, but he also has a secret: on Saturday nights, after the coplas at the church, the troubadours gather at his store to drink and keep singing. There is no fixed schedule. Simply, when the corner session ends, people move here. If you want to hear improvised verses until dawn, this is the place. Beers cost 3,500 COP each.
El puesto de jugos de La Gorda (Carrera 3 con Calle del Pozo)
A natural juice cart that operates from 8am to 6pm. The specialty is corozo juice, a typical fruit from the region. The large glass costs 5,000 COP. La Gorda, as she is called, is known for playing music on an old speaker while she prepares the juices. It is not uncommon for a troubadour to approach, order a juice, and start singing. It is the most relaxed spot in the neighborhood to sit and observe.
How to Get There and Transportation
El Cabrero is located in the northern part of Cartagena, between the Centro Histórico and the neighborhood of Getsemaní. Getting there is easy, but you need to know how to get around.
By Bus or Minibus
From the Centro Histórico, take any bus heading towards "El Cabrero" or "Manga". The most common routes are T-101 and T-102. The fare is 2,500 COP. Get off at the Iglesia de San Roque stop, which is the main one in the neighborhood. Buses pass every 10-15 minutes during peak hours, but in the afternoon they can take up to 30 minutes.
By Taxi or Mototaxi
A taxi from the Centro Histórico to the Iglesia de San Roque costs between 8,000 and 12,000 COP, depending on traffic. Mototaxis are cheaper: 5,000 COP per ride. Both will drop you off at the church door. I recommend the mototaxi if you are coming alone, because it is faster and you can ask the driver to give you a tour of the main streets.
Walking
If you are in the Centro Histórico, you can walk to El Cabrero in 20 minutes. The route is simple: leave the Centro via Calle del Arsenal, cross the bridge on Avenida del Lago, and continue straight until you reach Carrera 3. The path is safe during the day, but at night it is better to go by taxi or mototaxi, especially if you don't know the neighborhood.
Local Tips for the Music-Loving Traveler
Here are some tips that only a local would give you. They are small tricks to make your experience in El Cabrero authentic and not like a lost tourist.
- Arrive early. The copla sessions at the church corner start at 6 p.m., but the troubadours arrive from 5:30. If you arrive early, you can talk to them before the music starts. Ask them about their favorite copla or the history of the neighborhood. They are open people and like to share.
- Don't use flash when recording. Troubadours get distracted by camera flash. If you want to record a video, do it with natural light or street light. The ambient sound is part of the magic: the noise of cars, dogs barking, children playing. Don't ruin it with a flash.
- Learn a basic copla. If you want to connect with the locals, learn a short copla. You can memorize this one, which is the most famous in El Cabrero: "El Cabrero is my neighborhood, / where the accordion plays, / the copla is born on the corner, / and the heart is filled." Recite it when you are introduced and you will see how the smiles multiply.
- Bring cash. In El Cabrero there are almost no card terminals. The stores, food stalls, and troubadours only accept cash. Withdraw money before you arrive, because the nearest ATM is in the Centro Histórico, a 15-minute walk away.
- Respect the silences. The neighborhood is quiet. Don't shout, don't play loud music on your phone. People value silence as much as music. If you want to hear a copla, sit in silence and wait for it to start. Don't shout for it.
- Record the most authentic sound and send it to us. Yes, this is the call to action. We want to create a collaborative playlist with the sounds of El Cabrero. If you hear a copla that touches your soul, an accordion that gives you goosebumps, or simply the sound of the wind at the pier, record it with your phone (audio only, not video) and send it to us through the form at malokal.com. The best ones will be published on our Spotify profile. That way, the neighborhood keeps singing to the world.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk through El Cabrero at night?
Yes, but with caution. The neighborhood is quiet and the people are friendly, but as in any place in Cartagena, it is better not to walk alone after 10 p.m. If you go to the Saturday copla sessions, leave with the group of people that leaves after the Don Toño store. The path to the Centro Histórico is safe if you are accompanied.
Do I need to know Spanish to enjoy the coplas?
Not necessarily, but it helps. The coplas are improvised in coastal Spanish, with a lot of double entendre and local humor. If you don't speak Spanish, you can feel the music and rhythm, but you will miss the jokes and stories. My advice: find a local to translate for you while they sing. At the church corner, there is always someone willing to help.
Is there accommodation in El Cabrero?
Very little. The neighborhood is residential and has no formal hotels or hostels. The closest thing are some houses that rent rooms on Airbnb, but they are scarce. Most visitors stay in the Centro Histórico or Getsemaní and come to El Cabrero for the day. If you want to stay, look on short-term rental apps at least two weeks in advance.
What is the best time of year to visit El Cabrero?
All year round, but January and February are special because they coincide with the Festival de la Cople, an unofficial event organized by local troubadours at the church corner. There is no fixed date, but it is usually the second Saturday of January. As of May 2026, the festival has not been confirmed, but the troubadours assure they will do it as long as there is an audience.
Can I buy records or recordings of the coplas?
There are no record stores in the neighborhood. The troubadours record their coplas on their phones and share them via WhatsApp. If you want a recording, you can ask Don Eulalio or any troubadour after the session. They will send it to you via Bluetooth or WhatsApp for free. That said, don't expect studio quality: they are home recordings, but full of soul.