Why El Cabrero is the bridge neighborhood you didn't know you needed
If you arrived in Cartagena thinking it's all walls, sun, and rum, I have news for you: you're missing half the city. El Cabrero is that neighborhood few tourists walk through calmly, but locals know as the green lung between the Walled City and the coastal nature. It's not a big neighborhood, but it has a unique personality: it's the point where cobblestone meets the mangrove, where the noise of cars mixes with the song of herons.
Historically, El Cabrero was a slum of fishermen and port workers. Today, it retains that authentic neighborhood feel, without the inflated prices of Getsemaní or the hustle of Bocagrande. Its narrow streets, some unpaved, lead you straight to the inner bay, where the urban mangrove survives against all odds. Here, in May 2026, you can still find a wooden boat workshop next to a homemade candy store. That's not made up.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
For the slow traveler, El Cabrero is a gift. You don't need a map or a guide: just comfortable shoes, water, and a willingness to get lost. This article is my attempt to tell you about the trails I've walked myself, the corners where iguanas watch you from the trees, and the stalls where coffee costs the same as ten years ago. Let's go step by step.
What to do in El Cabrero: more than a walk
The pedestrian route from Parque Centenario
The ideal starting point is Parque Centenario, that green lung separating the Walled City from El Cabrero. Don't just stay in the park: carefully cross Avenida Pedro de Heredia (traffic is fierce) and go into Calle del Porvenir. This street is where it all begins. Here, the asphalt turns into old cobblestone, and low pastel-colored houses start to appear.
Walk slowly. After 200 meters, you'll find a small square with a giant ceiba tree. There, if you're lucky, you'll see iguanas sunbathing. Continue straight until the path forks: to the left, a street that smells of dried fish (a sign the mangrove is near); to the right, houses with patios full of mango trees. Take the left.
This trail isn't named on Google Maps, but locals call it "the mangrove alley." It's narrow, with packed earth, and red and black mangroves grow on the sides. During the rainy season (April to November), the ground can be a bit muddy, but it's worth it. After a 10-minute walk, you reach a natural viewpoint: a small rise from where you see the inner bay, with fishermen's boats and, if the day is clear, the profile of Cerro de la Popa in the background.
Birdwatching and local species spots
El Cabrero is an urban sanctuary for birds. Don't expect an aviary, but a constant surprise. In the mangrove bordering the bay, I've seen white herons, cattle egrets, and even a kingfisher (if you sit quietly for about 15 minutes). There are also pelicans flying low, looking for fish near the boats.
Iguanas are the owners of the neighborhood. You'll see them on house roofs, in almond trees, and on the walls of old houses. Don't bother them, but don't disturb them either. They are part of the landscape. If you walk at dusk, it's common to see fruit bats coming out of the guáimaro trees. They don't bite; they just look for fruit.
A curious fact: on Calle de la Amargura (yes, that's its name), there is a ceiba tree that is over 80 years old. Neighbors say that fishermen used to gather there to tell stories before television existed. Today, it's a meeting point for those who still raise chickens in the yard.
Secret stops you won't find in tour guides
"Doña Mireya" Homemade Candy Store: at Calle del Porvenir # 12-34 (no big sign, but you'll recognize the smell of coconut and panela). Doña Mireya has been selling cocadas, enyucados, and tamarind candy for 30 years. She makes everything at home, and prices haven't gone up much: a cocada costs $2,000 COP (May 2026). Open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 6pm, but sometimes she closes if she goes to mass. Ask first.
"El Muelle" Boat Repair Workshop: on the bay shore, behind the old fire station. This workshop is a gem: Don Carlos, a 70-year-old man, repairs wooden boats using techniques he learned from his grandfather. He doesn't sell anything, but if you ask permission, he'll let you watch how he caulks the joints with oakum and pitch. It's a dying craft. Open Monday to Friday, 7am to 4pm. No phone, just show up and say hello.
The Fried Fish Corner: at the intersection of Calle del Manglar and Carrera 5, there's a stall that only opens Fridays and Saturdays at noon. They sell fried fish with patacón and salad for $12,000 COP. It has no name, but the line of locals tells you it's good. Bring cash, as they don't accept cards.
Where to eat or drink in El Cabrero
Street food that never fails
El Cabrero is not a gastronomic area like the Center, but it has honest options. The arepa de huevo stall on the corner of Calle del Porvenir and Carrera 3 is legendary among those who work in the neighborhood. Doña Carmen makes them to order, with quail egg (optional) and costeño suero. One arepa costs $4,000 COP.
For something more substantial, look for "Frito Loco" on Calle de la Amargura. It's a cart that sells shredded beef empanadas and chicken pastelitos, all fried in palm oil. Empanadas are $2,500 COP each. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5pm to 10pm.
Drinks for the heat
Corozo juice is the official drink of the neighborhood. It's sold at the store "La Esquina de Don Tito," on Carrera 4 with Calle del Porvenir. A large glass costs $3,000 COP. They also have agua de panela with lemon, ideal for rehydrating after the walk.
If you prefer something alcoholic, the store "El Buen Sabor" sells cold beer (Águila or Club Colombia) for $4,500 COP per bottle. There's no terrace, but you can sit on the sidewalk, as the neighbors do. That said, respect the space: it's not a bar, it's a neighborhood store.
How to get there and transportation in El Cabrero
From the Walled City
The easiest way is walking. From the Torre del Reloj, it's about 20 minutes at a slow pace. Cross Puente Román (the one over Avenida Pedro de Heredia) and continue straight to Parque Centenario. Once there, look for Calle del Porvenir. You can't get lost.
If you prefer not to walk that much, you can take a route bus (the green ones that say "Centro - El Cabrero") from Plaza de la Aduana. The fare is $2,300 COP (May 2026) and it drops you at the entrance of the neighborhood. Get off at the Parque Centenario stop.
By bicycle or motorcycle
El Cabrero is flat, ideal for a bicycle. You can rent one in the Center for $15,000 COP per hour. The problem is stray dogs: some are territorial. Better to walk or use a moto-taxi. Moto-taxi drivers charge $5,000 COP for a ride within the neighborhood. Negotiate the price before getting on.
By private car
I don't recommend it. The streets are narrow, there are potholes, and parking is almost non-existent. If you arrive by car, park at Parque Centenario (there's a guarded parking lot, $5,000 COP per hour) and walk.
Local tips to enjoy El Cabrero like a resident
- Best times: dawn (5:30am to 7am) is magical because the mangrove fills with birds and there are almost no people. Sunset (4pm to 6pm) is also good, but there's more activity. Avoid midday: the sun is harsh and there's no shade on the trails.
- Safety: El Cabrero is quiet during the day, but as in any neighborhood in Cartagena, don't walk around with visible jewelry or your phone in hand. The mangrove streets are safe until 6pm. After that, it's better not to go alone.
- Bring cash: almost no stall accepts cards. The nearest ATMs are in the Center or Bocagrande. Withdraw money beforehand.
- Insect repellent: the mangrove has mosquitoes, especially at dusk. Use DEET repellent or long sleeves.
- Respect locals' space: don't enter private patios or take photos of people without permission. Always ask. Most will smile and say yes, but it's a matter of courtesy.
- Don't leave trash: the mangrove is a fragile ecosystem. Carry your trash with you until you find a bin.
A fact few know: on Calle del Manglar, there is a large stone that locals call "the fisherman's stone." It is said that fishermen used it to sharpen their knives before heading out to the bay. Today, some children use it as a seat to play. It has no plaque or anything, but if you ask, they'll show you.
Frequently asked questions about El Cabrero
Is it safe to walk alone in El Cabrero?
Yes, during the day it is safe. The main streets have constant movement of neighbors and workers. The mangrove trails are quiet, but it's better to go with someone if you don't know the area. After 6pm, avoid unlit streets and stay in areas with more people, like Calle del Porvenir.
Do you need to pay to enter the mangrove?
No, access to the mangrove is public. There are no ticket booths or official guides. Just respect the environment: don't pull up plants or disturb the animals. If you see trash, pick it up if you can. The mangrove belongs to everyone and no one.
How long does the full pedestrian route take?
It depends on your pace. If you walk unhurriedly, making stops at the candy store, the boat workshop, and the viewpoint, you can take between 2 and 3 hours. If you only want the main mangrove trail, it's about 45 minutes round trip. Bring water and use sunscreen.
Are there public restrooms in El Cabrero?
There are no public restrooms in the neighborhood. The only ones available are in stores or restaurants, but only for customers. I recommend going to the bathroom before leaving the Center or your accommodation. If you're in a hurry, ask at the store "La Esquina de Don Tito," sometimes they let you use the bathroom if you buy something.
Can you see dangerous animals in the mangrove?
No, the animals you'll see are harmless: iguanas, herons, pelicans, and maybe a crab. There are no venomous snakes reported in this urban area. Bats don't attack. The only thing that can be annoying are mosquitoes, so bring repellent.
Download the free GPS route we put together for this tour: click here to get the GPX file with the exact points of the trail, the viewpoint, and the secret stops. That way you won't miss a single detail. And if you find a new corner, tell us in the comments on Malokal. El Cabrero always holds surprises.
Historical or contextual introduction
El Cabrero is a neighborhood that, although often overlooked by tourists, has a rich history dating back to colonial times. Originally, this area was a refuge for slaves who managed to escape their masters and, over time, became a place where Afro-descendant communities settled, contributing to the mestizaje and local culture. The influence of these communities is reflected in the music, gastronomy, and traditions that still endure today.
Walking through its streets is reliving history. The vibrantly colored houses and the murals adorning the walls tell stories of resistance and hope. As you stroll, you might hear the echo of conversations in the square, where neighbors gather to share stories and a coffee. This is a place that breathes life and community, very different from the typical image of touristy Cartagena.
A visit to El Cabrero is not complete without stopping at some of its most emblematic points:
Plaza de la Paz
Insider Tip: Visit the square in the afternoon, when locals gather to enjoy the breeze and share anecdotes. If you're lucky, you might hear live music or see a cultural performance.
Parque de los Artistas
Insider Tip: This park is an excellent place to discover local talent. There are often art exhibitions and craft fairs. Bring some cash to buy unique souvenirs directly from the artists.