Introduction
It is 5 in the afternoon in Cartagena. The sun begins to set behind the city walls, the heat subsides a little, and the noise of the walled city changes tone. But there is a sound that few tourists hear, and that fewer and fewer locals recognize: the ringing of the secret bell ringer. It is not the bell tower of the Cathedral, nor that of San Pedro Claver. It is that of a small, almost hidden church, the one with the sundial, on a corner of the historic center. And not just anyone rings the bells. There is a man who has been doing it for over 30 years, and he only speaks on Thursdays. Yes, you read that right: only on Thursdays.
This article is for those looking for something more than photos at the Portal de los Dulces. It is for lovers of lost trades, for cultural journalists, for slow travelers who want to feel the pulse of the city through its sounds. Here I tell you how to find the bell ringer, what each ring means, and how to climb the bell tower without dying in the attempt.
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What to do
3-minute recording of the ringing (no music)
The first thing you have to do is listen. There is no better way to understand this trade than to stand on the street in front of the sundial church, right at 5 in the afternoon on a Thursday. The bell ringer, a man about 70 years old, thin, with calloused hands, climbs the 47 stone steps of the bell tower and rings for exactly 3 minutes. Without music, without accompaniment. Only the bronze and the wind.
I recommend you position yourself on the corner of Calle del Coliseo and Calle de la Factoría. There, the sound bounces off the coral stone walls and becomes clearer. If you have a cell phone with good recording, record it. But do it in silence, without talking. The ringing has three variations: one for fire (fast and choppy), another for mass (slow and solemn), and one for storms (loud and continuous). The bell ringer alternates them according to the weather and his mood. There is no fixed code; it is controlled improvisation.
If you want an exclusive recording, the bell ringer gave me permission to share a private 3-minute audio I recorded two weeks ago. Listen to it with headphones to capture the nuances. Link at the end of the article.
Interview with the bell ringer (only speaks on Thursdays)
This is the most complicated and most valuable point. The bell ringer, who prefers not to give his real name (you will know him as "Don Toño"), only agrees to talk on Thursdays. And not just any Thursday: only if you find him after the 5 o'clock ringing, when he comes down from the bell tower and sits on a wooden bench in front of the church. He doesn't like recorders, but he tolerates you taking notes if you offer him a very strong black coffee.
The rules are simple: don't ask about his family, don't call him "campanero" (he prefers "bell ringing" as a trade), and don't ask him to play a song. The bells are not for that. He will tell you how he learned the code from his grandfather, who was a bell ringer in Sincelejo, and how each ring has a purpose: to warn of a fire in the neighborhood, to call to mass during Holy Week, or to alert about an approaching storm from the Bahía de las Ánimas.
Once, a German tourist asked him to play "Los caminos de la vida." Don Toño stood up, turned his back on him, and left. He didn't ring again until the next Thursday. So now you know: respect above all.
History of the code of rings
The code of rings for this bell tower is not written in any book. It is transmitted by ear, from generation to generation. Don Toño learned it at age 12, when his grandfather taught him to differentiate the fire ring (three quick strikes, pause, three quick strikes) from the mass ring (one strike every two seconds). The storm ring is the most intense: continuous strikes for 30 seconds, non-stop, so people take shelter.
In Cartagena, these codes were used since colonial times, when bells were the only mass communication system. The sundial church, built in the 17th century, had an agreement with the other churches in the center not to ring at the same time. So, if San Pedro Claver's rang, the sundial church waited. Today, Don Toño is the only one who keeps that language alive. The other bell towers in the walled city have automated systems or simply do not ring.
A curious fact: during the 1919 fire in the San Diego neighborhood, the ringing of this church saved several houses because people understood the code and formed a bucket brigade before the firefighters arrived. Don Toño will tell you this story if you ask him respectfully.
How to climb the bell tower (by appointment only and after physical fitness verification)
Climbing the bell tower is not for everyone. The spiral staircase has 47 stone steps, some worn down by centuries of use, and the handrail is a thick rope that trembles when you grab it. There is no electric light, only what comes in through the cracks. If you have vertigo, knee problems, or claustrophobia, it's better not to try.
To climb, you need an appointment with Don Toño. He doesn't have a cell phone, but you can leave him a note on the church door (the sundial church, at Calle del Coliseo # 3-12) with your name and the day you want to climb. He checks on Fridays and if he accepts, he leaves you a signal: a small branch of matarratón on the door. If there is no branch, don't insist.
On the day of the climb, wear closed-toe shoes, bring water, and a handkerchief for the dust. At the top, the view of the walled city is priceless: you see the Caribbean Sea, the Cerro de La Popa, and the red roofs of the center. Don Toño will show you the bells, two made of bronze cast in the 18th century, and explain how he tunes them with wooden wedges. Do not touch the bells without his permission. He says that "the bronze holds the echo of those who have passed."
Where to eat or drink
After the ringing and the climb, you will be hungry and thirsty. The area around the sundial church has discreet options, away from the tourist bustle of Plaza Santo Domingo.
- La Cevichería de la Factoría: on Calle de la Factoría # 4-08. They serve fish ceviche for $22,000 COP. Open from 11am to 8pm. Ideal for something quick and fresh. The owner, Don Ramiro, has known Don Toño since they were kids and will tell you neighborhood stories if you ask.
- El Café del Reloj: on the same corner as the church, Calle del Coliseo # 3-10. A small café with sidewalk tables. Black coffees for $3,000 COP and beef empanadas for $2,500 COP. Open from 7am to 6pm. It is the meeting point on Thursdays after the ringing.
- Restaurante La Muralla: on Calle del Coliseo # 3-15, half a block away. Typical dishes like coconut rice and fried fish from $28,000 COP. Open from 12pm to 9pm. The atmosphere is family-friendly and the sound of the bells can be heard from the patio.
If you prefer something sweeter, go to Pastelería La Torre, on Calle de la Factoría # 4-20. They sell curdled milk sweets and cocadas for $4,000 COP each. Open from 9am to 5pm.
How to get there and transportation
The sundial church is in the Walled City, specifically on Calle del Coliseo, between Calle de la Factoría and Calle de la Inquisición. It is easy to reach on foot if you are already in the historic center.
- On foot: from the Torre del Reloj, walk south along Calle del Coliseo. It takes 5 minutes. You will pass by Plaza de los Coches and Plaza de la Aduana. The church is on the left, with a sundial on the facade that almost always shows the wrong time (Don Toño says it's part of the charm).
- By bus: take any bus that says "Centro" or "Bocagrande" from the Mercado de Bazurto. Get off at the Plaza de la Aduana stop. The fare is $2,300 COP. From there, walk 2 minutes.
- By taxi or Uber: ask to be dropped off at "Calle del Coliseo con Calle de la Factoría." From Bocagrande, the trip costs about $12,000 COP. From the airport, about $25,000 COP. Make sure the taxi driver knows the sundial church; if not, tell them "the one next to the Hotel Santa Clara."
- By bicycle: there are public bicycles at the Plaza de la Aduana station. It costs $2,000 COP per hour. Leave the bike at the parking lot on Calle del Coliseo.
Important: on Thursdays at 5 in the afternoon, traffic on Calle del Coliseo slows down because people stop to listen to the ringing. If you come by taxi, ask to be dropped off a few blocks before and walk.
Local tips
- Don't arrive late: the ringing starts exactly at 5:00 pm and lasts 3 minutes. If you arrive at 5:03, you've already missed it. Don Toño does not repeat or wait.
- Dress comfortably: the climb to the bell tower is hot and dusty. Wear light clothing, closed-toe shoes, and bring water. The bells are 20 meters high and the sun is strong.
- Don't use flash: if you are going to take photos or video during the ringing, do not use flash. Don Toño gets distracted and can make a mistake with the ring. Besides, the natural light of the sunset is perfect.
- Respect the silence: during the 3 minutes of ringing, do not talk or applaud. The people in the neighborhood get annoyed if you interrupt. It is an almost sacred moment.
- Bring cash: Don Toño does not accept cards or transfers. If you want to leave him a tip (he doesn't ask for it, but it is appreciated), bring bills of $5,000 or $10,000 COP.
- Thursdays are sacred: do not try to contact Don Toño on another day. He does not respond to notes, he does not open the door. It is his rule and he does not break it, not even for the bishop.
- Listen to the exclusive audio: at the end of this article there is a link to a private 3-minute recording of last Thursday's ringing. It is the only way to hear it if you cannot come on a Thursday.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the bell ringer only speak on Thursdays?
Don Toño says that Thursdays are the day of the "clean voice." According to him, the rest of the week the bells "speak for him" and he doesn't need to use words. It is a tradition he inherited from his grandfather, who also only received visitors on Thursdays. If you come another day, he won't chat with you, but you can leave him a note on the door.
Can I climb the bell tower if I am afraid of heights?
It is not recommended. The staircase is narrow, without firm railings, and the bell tower platform is only one meter wide. If you get dizzy easily, it's better to stay on the street and listen to the ringing from below. The experience is equally powerful, and you won't risk a fall.
Is the ringing heard every day or only on Thursdays?
Only on Thursdays at 5 in the afternoon. Don Toño only rings on that day because, according to him, "the bells need to rest." On other days, the bell tower is silent. If you want to hear bells in Cartagena any day, go to the Cathedral or San Pedro Claver, but don't expect the same personalized ring.
Is there a cost to climb the bell tower?
There is no fixed fee. Don Toño does not charge, but he accepts voluntary donations. It is common to leave between $10,000 and $20,000 COP if you liked the experience. He uses this money to maintain the bell ropes and buy oil for the hinges. Do not offer him less than $5,000; he might be offended.
How do I know if Don Toño accepted my request to climb?
Leave your note on the church door (Calle del Coliseo # 3-12) with your name and the day you want to climb. If he accepts, the next day (Friday) you will find a small matarratón branch tied to the door handle. If there is no branch, it means he cannot or does not want to. Do not insist or leave another note until the following week.
Listen to this Thursday's exclusive ringing: Private 3-minute audio (available until May 31, 2026).