The neighborhood that breathes stories: San Antonio is not just a hill
If there is a place in Cali that tastes of stories from before, of wooden balconies and salsa that rises from the Centro, that is San Antonio. It is not a flat postcard neighborhood: it is a steep hill, full of climbs that leave you breathless and descents that gift you the sky. Here, in May 2026, neighbors still greet each other from door to door, dogs know each other by name, and the church bells mark the rhythm of the day. This article is not just any guide: it is four walking routes that will take you through the cobblestone streets, but above all, through the voices of those who live here. Walking San Antonio is listening to it. And if in the end you feel like recording your own sound story, even better.
Route 1: The viewpoint loop (the classic that never fails)
Start: Parque de San Antonio (in front of the church)
End: Mirador de San Antonio (Calle 4 with Carrera 3)
Duration: 45 minutes at a leisurely pace, including stops
Difficulty: Low-medium. There is a steep two-block climb, but it can be done with children
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This is the route that every caleño shows to someone from out of town. You start in the park, where on weekends the craft fair sets up and there is always someone selling cholados. The soundscape here is a mix of church bells (they ring at 6pm, like a call to slow down), distant salsa coming down from some house, and the barking of dogs lying under the mango trees.
The key stop is at doña Lucía's house, a 78-year-old neighbor who has lived on Carrera 4 with Calle 3 since 1975. Her wooden balcony is full of geranium plants. "Before, this was all pastureland," she told me one afternoon while watering. "You could see the lights of Centro from here and it felt like another world. Now there are restaurants and tourists, but the smell of guava in December is still the same." Doña Lucía always offers water to walkers, and if asked, she tells how they used to go up by mule before taxis existed.
Best time: Between 4pm and 6pm. You arrive just in time for sunset and the bells.
Route 2: The stairs that tell lives (climb up Calle 5)
Start: Corner of Calle 5 with Carrera 2 (where the store "El Sabor de la Abuela" is)
End: Calle 5 with Carrera 5 (at the height of the Lacordaire school)
Duration: 1 hour, because you will stop to say hello
Difficulty: High. They are long and steep stairs. Not recommended for baby strollers or people with reduced mobility
This route is for those who want to feel their legs burn. The stairs on Calle 5 are a monument to effort: more than 100 steps connecting the lower and upper parts of the neighborhood. The soundscape here is different: you hear your own footsteps, the echo of conversations in the windows, and if you are lucky, the noise of a sewing machine from some clothing workshop.
The key stop is at don Carlos's workshop, a shoemaker who has worked on stair 47 since 1982. "These stairs were built by the neighbors themselves, with their own hands," he told me while gluing a sole. "Before, there was no money for cement, so they used river stones. Look, you can still see some." Don Carlos is 65 years old and knows every family in the area. "The secret to climbing them without getting tired is not to look up. Look at your feet and breathe deeply."
Best time: 7am to 9am, when the sun is not yet strong and the neighbors go out to buy bread.
Route 3: The mural route (street art and memory)
Start: Calle 2 with Carrera 3 (in front of the CAI of San Antonio)
End: Calle 4 with Carrera 4 (corner of the La Máscara theater)
Duration: 1 hour and a half, ideal for photos
Difficulty: Low. Almost everything is flat or a gentle downhill
San Antonio is not just a history of balconies: it is also an open-air canvas. This route covers the murals painted by local artists since 2015, when a collective called "Pintas x Cali" began intervening on facades. The soundscape here is more urban: motorcycles going up, music from bars starting to open, and sometimes, the sound of an aerosol can in action if you find an artist retouching.
The key stop is at the mural of the "Gorda de San Antonio", a female figure in vibrant colors that covers an entire wall on Calle 3 with Carrera 4. The story is told by don Jairo, a 54-year-old neighbor who lives right next door. "That woman was doña Rosa, a lady who sold empanadas on the corner. She died ten years ago, but the kids painted her so she wouldn't be forgotten." Don Jairo sits on a plastic chair every afternoon and watches people pass by. "The art is beautiful, but what matters is the story of who inspired it."
Best time: 10am to 12pm. The midday light makes the colors shine.
Route 4: The haunted houses circuit (for the brave and curious)
Start: Calle 5 with Carrera 2 (in front of the corner house, with the black iron gates)
End: Calle 6 with Carrera 1 (behind the convent of the Hermanas)
Duration: 1 hour and 15 minutes, with stories included
Difficulty: Medium. There are short ups and downs
San Antonio also has its dark side, and it is not at night: it is stories that neighbors tell in hushed tones. This route covers three houses that, according to oral tradition, are "haunted." The soundscape here becomes more intimate: the wind whistling through the bars, the creaking of a wooden door, and if the group is silent, the rumor that something is moving inside.
The key stop is at the house on Calle 5 with Carrera 2, known as "La Casa del Reloj." Doña Marta, a 60-year-old neighbor who lives across the street, swears she has seen lights turning on by themselves at 3am. "My grandmother said a Spanish doctor who committed suicide for love lived there. Sometimes you hear footsteps, like someone walking on the second floor." Doña Marta does not laugh when she tells it. "I'm not saying it's true, but I'm not saying it's a lie either. I prefer not to find out."
Best time: 5pm to 6pm, when it starts to get dark and the atmosphere becomes tenser. Not recommended for small children.
How to get there and transportation: climbing San Antonio without dying in the attempt
Getting to San Antonio is easy if you know how. From Centro, you can take a taxi or Uber for about 8,000 to 12,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026). There are also buses that go up Calle 5: the "San Antonio-Bella Vista" route stops right at the park. If you come by car, prepare for narrow streets and difficult parking: the best is to leave the car in the church parking lot (costs 5,000 COP per hour) or on Calle 4 with Carrera 2, where there is space.
For those walking from Centro, the journey from Plaza de Caicedo to Parque de San Antonio is about 20 minutes at a brisk pace, all uphill. Bring water and comfortable shoes: the cobblestone streets are pretty, but they get slippery if it rains. On weekends there is more movement and it is safer to walk during the day. At night, it is better to go in a group or by car.
Local tips: what nobody tells you but you should know
- Bring cash: Several food stalls and stores do not accept cards. In the park, empanadas cost between 2,000 and 3,000 COP.
- Don't use your cell phone in your hand: It is a safe neighborhood, but like on any hill in Cali, carelessness has consequences. Keep it in your pocket.
- Greet the neighbors: People here are friendly. A "good morning" or "good afternoon" can open doors and even get you a story.
- The best coffee is at the corner house: On Calle 3 with Carrera 4, doña María sells brewed coffee with pan de yuca for 2,500 COP. There is no sign, but everyone knows it.
- If you go with children, bring repellent: The mosquitoes are fierce at dusk, especially near the mango trees.
- Don't forget to look up: The facades have details that are missed if you only look at the ground. Wooden balconies, clay tiles, hand-carved doors.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to walk through San Antonio at night?
It depends on the area and the time. The main streets, like Calle 5 and Carrera 3, have movement until 10pm on weekends. But the inner streets and stairs can be empty and dark. The best is to go in a group, use your cell phone only for emergencies, and avoid jewelry or flashy items. If you leave a restaurant, ask for a taxi or Uber to the door.
How much time is needed to cover all four routes?
If you do them all in a row, calculate about 4 hours including stops to rest and eat. But the ideal is to do one per day, so you can enjoy each story without rushing. The mural route and the viewpoint route can be combined in one afternoon if you start early.
Are there public restrooms in the neighborhood?
There are no free public restrooms. Restaurants and cafes in the park usually lend the restroom if you consume something. You can also ask at the Iglesia de San Antonio, which has a restroom open to the public during the day, but there is not always toilet paper. Bring your own roll just in case.
CTA: Your story sounds too
Now that you know these routes and the voices of the neighbors, it is your turn. Record your own sound story of the neighborhood: the sound of the bells, a conversation in a store, the bark of a dog, the silence of a staircase. Share it on social media with the hashtag #MalokalSuena and tag @Malokal. The best stories will enter our monthly podcast, where the sounds of Cali are the protagonists. You don't need professional equipment: a cell phone and attentive ears are enough.
What to do
Walk through the streets of San Antonio
Exploring the cobblestone streets of San Antonio on foot is an experience you cannot miss. Every corner tells a story, from the colonial houses to the squares that still resonate with the music of the era. The tour can start at Plaza de San Antonio, where you can enjoy a cold drink while watching the local artists.
Insider Tip: Visit during sunset to enjoy a spectacular view of the illuminated city and avoid the heat of the day. Bring your camera, as the neighborhood is an ideal place to capture unique moments.
Casa de la Cultura
This space is a cultural center that houses art exhibitions, workshops, and musical events. Casa de la Cultura is the perfect place to meet local artists and participate in activities that celebrate the caleño tradition.
Insider Tip: Check the weekly schedule before your visit. There are often free events that offer a deeper insight into the culture of Cali.
Mirador de San Antonio
From this point, you can get one of the best panoramic views of Cali. It is a popular spot for locals and tourists, especially at sunset. Here you can feel the vibrant energy of the neighborhood.
Insider Tip: Bring a snack and enjoy a picnic at the top. It is an excellent place to relax and watch how the city transforms with the light of the setting sun.
Visit to the Iglesia de San Antonio
This church is an icon of the neighborhood and a reflection of the religious history of Cali. Its architecture and the frescoes inside are worthy of admiration. It is also a meeting place for the community.
Insider Tip: If you have the opportunity, attend a Sunday mass. The live music and atmosphere will connect you with the local culture in a deeper way.
Where to eat or drink
La Tartalería
This place is famous for its savory and sweet tarts, ideal for a light lunch or a snack. If you are looking for a relaxed and artistic atmosphere, this is the spot. Insider Tip: Don't miss the guanábana tart, a dessert that combines tropical flavors with a unique texture that conquers everyone.
El Dandelion
A coffee shop that stands out for its locally sourced coffee and bohemian atmosphere. It is perfect for enjoying a good read or a chat with friends. Insider Tip: Ask about the daily filter coffee; each week they have a different variety that will allow you to explore the diverse flavors of Colombian coffee.
Casa de la Cerveza
A paradise for craft beer lovers. Here you can enjoy a wide selection of local beers, accompanied by delicious appetizers. Insider Tip: Ask about the seasonal beers, which often include local and fresh ingredients that you won't find elsewhere.
El Limonar
Known for its typical Valle del Cauca cuisine, this restaurant offers an authentic experience in a cozy atmosphere. From sancocho to ajiaco, here you can enjoy traditional flavors. Insider Tip: Visit during lunch hours to enjoy their executive menu, which includes a daily dish at a very affordable price.