Granada: The Block of Murals That Tell Cali's Hidden History

Introduction: The Smell of Fresh Paint and the History They Didn't Teach You in School

If you walk along Calle 13 between Carrera 3 and Carrera 5, in the Granada neighborhood, the first thing that hits you isn't the midday sun or the noise of cars. It's the smell of acrylic paint mixed with street dust, that aroma only freshly made murals have. But this isn't an air-conditioned art gallery: everything is outdoors, on the facades of old houses, on exposed brick walls, and even on the grilles of some local shops. This isn't the Historic Center or the Zona Rosa; this is Granada, a neighborhood that for decades was just a pass-through point between north and south Cali, and that today is becoming the city's most authentic open-air museum.

What makes this place unique isn't just the number of murals — already over 30 in less than three blocks — but what they tell. There are no bucolic landscapes or monarch butterflies here. There are faces of murdered social leaders, maps of the memory of the armed conflict, denunciations of racism, and tributes to Afro-Pacific culture. It's hidden history, the kind that doesn't appear in textbooks or tourist brochures. And if you came here looking for that, welcome: this is what you need to know to explore Granada like a local.

What to Do: The Mural Route You Can't Miss

The best way to get to know Granada is by walking. You don't need a guide or a downloadable map: the walls themselves will lead you. But if you want to go with a clear route, here's the 10-minute tour covering the three key murals. Start at the corner of Calle 13 with Carrera 4, right where the neighborhood's small square ends.

Mural 1: "El grito de los nadie" (2022, Author: Colectivo La Pinta)

This mural covers the entire facade of an abandoned house at Calle 13 #4-12. It features three enormous faces, in profile, with closed eyes and open mouths in a silent scream. The faces are of an Afro-Colombian woman, an indigenous man, and a peasant farmer. Behind them, an earth-toned background that simulates the mountain range. The story behind it: Colectivo La Pinta, a group of Cali artists who work with communities victimized by the conflict, painted it in 2022 as a tribute to the more than 50 people who disappeared in comuna 18 during the 2000s. Every time it rains, the colors become more intense, as if the wall were breathing.

Fun fact: neighbors say that on full moon nights, if you stand right in front of the mural, you can hear an echo that seems to come from inside the house. No one has been able to confirm it, but the legend is already part of the neighborhood.

Mural 2: "Raíces de la caña" (2024, Author: Kike Londoño)

On Carrera 4 with Calle 13A, on the side wall of a grocery store, is this mural that looks like a black and white photograph. It shows an elderly woman, her hands stained with dirt, holding a machete. At her feet, a river of sugarcane that turns into lyrics from songs of the Pacific oral tradition. Kike Londoño, a 29-year-old muralist who grew up in the neighborhood, painted it in January 2024. The story: the woman is his grandmother, Doña Rosa, who worked for 40 years in the sugarcane fields of the Valle del Cauca. The mural is a tribute to the invisible workers of the sugar agro-industry, one of the most powerful industries in the region and also one of the most forgotten in terms of labor rights.

If you stand in front, you'll notice that the song lyrics are written in Spanish and in the Palenquero language, a nod to the African heritage that few know about.

Mural 3: "Memoria de barro" (2023, Author: Colectivo Mujeres de la Tierra)

This is the largest mural on the block: it covers 12 meters wide by 4 meters high, on the facade of the Casa Cultural Granada, at Calle 13 #3-50. It's a collage of faces of women of different ages, all with bare torsos and hands full of mud. Each face has a date written below: they are the birthdays of women murdered by femicide in Cali between 2018 and 2023. The collective Mujeres de la Tierra, made up of 5 female artists from Cali, painted it during the commemoration of March 8, 2023. The story behind it: the mud is not just a material, it's a symbol of the earth that receives the bodies of the victims. The women appear smiling, as an act of resistance against pain.

A fact few know: the mural has a QR code painted in the lower right corner that leads to a website with the full names of the victims. But the QR is already half-erased by the sun. If you want to access it, you have to scan it before 11 in the morning, when the light doesn't obscure it.

Quick Interview: What a Local Muralist Says

I sat down with Carlos "Caco" Rentería, 34, who has lived in Granada since he was born and has been painting murals since he was 15. I found him on the terrace of his house, a spray can in hand and his dog lying at his feet.

—Well, man, this was always a pass-through neighborhood. People came from the north or the south, but no one stopped. About five years ago, a group of artists started asking permission from the homeowners to paint. At first they said no, that they would mess up the facade. But when they saw that the murals didn't damage them, but actually increased their property value, they started opening up. Now there's a waiting list to paint.

—Kike's grandmother's, no doubt. Because that lady is real, I knew her. And because it shows what no one wants to see: that the sugar we put in our coffee comes from hands that are breaking. That's hidden history, brother.

—What would you say to someone coming for the first time?

—That they should come with time. Not just take a photo and leave. Sit on the sidewalk, talk to the neighbors, ask questions. Every mural has a story that isn't written on the wall. And come soon, because gentrification is already knocking at the door. In two years, this could be another San Antonio, full of expensive cafes and no memory.

Mental Map of the 10-Minute Route

You don't need GPS. Do this:

1. Starting point: Corner of Calle 13 with Carrera 4. There's a small square with a concrete bench. Stand there, look north, and you'll see the first large mural on your left.
2. First stop: Walk 30 meters east along Calle 13. You'll find "El grito de los nadie" on the facade of the abandoned house. Take 3 minutes to read the names written below.
3. Second stop: Retrace your steps to Carrera 4, turn right and walk 20 meters. There's "Raíces de la caña", next to the store. Look at the letters in Palenquero.
4. Third stop: Continue along Carrera 4 to Calle 13A, turn left and walk 50 meters. You'll see the Casa Cultural Granada. There's "Memoria de barro". Look for the QR code in the lower right corner.
5. End: From the Casa Cultural, walk 2 minutes to Carrera 3 with Calle 13. There's a small but powerful mural: "La niña del río", painted by an anonymous artist in 2021. It's the least known, but the most photographed by locals.

Total time: 10-15 minutes if you just walk. If you stop to read each mural, allow 30 minutes.

Where to Eat or Drink

After the route, hunger strikes. Granada is not a gastronomic neighborhood like el Peñón or Granada in Bogotá, but it has authentic and cheap options.

La Tienda de Doña Chava

At Calle 13 #4-08. It's a neighborhood store that sells pipián empanadas (2,000 COP each) and natural lulo juice (3,000 COP). Doña Chava serves from 7 in the morning until 8 at night. There are no tables, you sit on the sidewalk. Reference prices from May 2026.

El Fogón de la 13

At Carrera 4 with Calle 13A. It's a daily menu restaurant: Monday to Friday, from 12 noon to 3 pm, they offer bandeja paisa, sancocho de gallina, or arroz atollado for 12,000 COP. Saturdays they only open until 1 pm. The owner, Don Jairo, has been a neighbor of the neighborhood for 40 years and always has a story to tell.

La Terraza de los Artistas

At Calle 13 #3-45, above the Casa Cultural. On Fridays and Saturdays, from 6 pm to 11 pm, they open a terrace with craft beer (from 8,000 COP per bottle) and live music. There's no fixed menu: sometimes they play salsa, sometimes rap. Ask for the "chicha de la casa", a fermented drink prepared by one of the artists from the Mujeres de la Tierra collective.

How to Get There and Transportation

Granada is in north-central Cali, 15 minutes by car from the Historic Center and 20 from the south (Unicentro area). These are the options:

• By MÍO (bus): Take route T31 or T47 from the Calle 15 station. Get off at the "Granada" stop, which is on Avenida 3N. From there, walk 5 minutes east along Calle 13.
• By taxi or Uber: Ask to be dropped off at "Calle 13 con Carrera 4, barrio Granada". The trip from the center costs between 8,000 and 12,000 COP (May 2026).
• By bicycle: There are bike lanes on Avenida 3N and Calle 13. You can leave your bike locked at the small square, but don't be too trusting: bring a lock.
• Walking: If you're in San Antonio (20 minutes away) or the Center (25 minutes), you can walk. It's safe during the day, but at night avoid unlit streets, especially Carrera 5.

Local Tips

• Ideal time: Arrive between 9 and 11 in the morning. The sunlight hits the murals head-on and there aren't as many people. Weekends are busier, but also have more street vendors.
• Don't touch the murals: It seems obvious, but many people lean on the walls for photos and the paint is still fresh on some. If you see a mural with yellow tape, don't go near: they are being restored.
• Talk to the neighbors: The lady at the store, the man sweeping the street, the dog sleeping on the corner. They all have a story about the murals. Ask without fear, people are friendly.
• Bring water: There aren't many hydration points on the route. Doña Chava's store sells bottles, but it's better to bring your own.
• Don't use flash in photos: Some murals have reflective paint and flash dulls them. Better to use natural light.
• Share on social media: If you liked a mural, upload the photo with the hashtag #MuralesGranadaCali and tag @Malokal. This helps more people know about this place before gentrification erases it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is It Safe to Walk Through Granada at Night?

Granada is relatively safe until 8 pm, especially if you stick to Calle 13 and Carrera 4, which are the busiest. After that time, the streets empty out and there is less street lighting. If you go to the artists' terrace, go in a group and order a taxi or Uber to get back. Avoid Carrera 5 and side streets without inhabited houses.

Do the Murals Change Over Time?

Yes, and that's part of their magic. Some murals are painted over others when a new artist gets permission from the facade owner. Others wear down from sun and rain, and the collectives touch them up every year. If you come back in six months, you might find a new mural in the same place where there was another one before. There's no fixed schedule, but changes usually happen between January and March, when there are more urban art festivals.

Can I Paint a Mural If I'm a Tourist?

Technically yes, but you need permission from the facade owner and the collective that coordinates the murals. The contact is the Casa Cultural Granada (Calle 13 #3-50). They usually require the mural to have a social or community message, and that you use materials that don't damage the wall. If you just want to paint a tag or a small graffiti, better look for a designated wall for that, like the one at the back of the Casa Cultural. Don't paint without permission: the neighbors care for the murals as if they were their own.