Restaurants in Cali: The Route of the 'Marisquerías' on Carrera 66, Where Ceviche is Eaten with Your Hands and Without

Carrera 66: Cali's Best-Kept Secret for Seafood Lovers

If you think that in Cali they only eat sancocho de gallina and marranitas, I have news for you: Carrera 66, between Calles 5 and 10, is the most authentic corridor of popular seafood restaurants in the city. Here, there are no linen tablecloths or wine glasses; there are plastic tables, salsa music blasting, and the unmistakable smell of the Pacific Ocean arriving fresh from Buenaventura. As of September 2026, this area remains the epicenter for locals who know where to eat well and cheaply.

I'll be honest with you: the first time I went, a friend told me, "order the concha without lemon, that's how it's eaten in the Pacific." I thought he was crazy. Today, after years of exploring these stalls, I understand that's the key to everything. This isn't the tourist route of the Plazoleta Jairo Varela; it's the route for those seeking real flavor, who don't shy away from the spicy aji, and who know the best ceviche is eaten with your hands and without utensils.

Top 5 Must-Visit Marisquerías on Carrera 66

After many visits, tasting dozens of dishes, and talking with the cooks at each stall, here is my personal selection of the five places you can't miss. They're all within a five-block radius, so you can do the route on foot.

1. Marisquería El Pacífico (Carrera 66 with Calle 5)

This is the grandfather of the corridor. It's been on the corner for over 25 years and is the only one that still receives fish directly from the boatmen of Buenaventura every morning. Its specialty is the ceviche de concha (piangua), prepared with a touch of sour orange that gives it a flavor I haven't tasted anywhere else. The dish costs around $25,000 COP and is enough for two if you also order an encocado. They receive their supply at 6:00 am, and the product runs out by around 2:00 pm. If you arrive later, you'd better find another plan.

Fun fact: the owner, Don Ramiro, still uses his grandmother's recipe from Timbiquí, Cauca. He says the secret isn't the lemon but the slow cooking of the piangua in its own shell, something almost no one does today because it takes time.

2. Ceviches de la 66 (Carrera 66 between Calles 7 and 8)

This stall is famous among the taxi drivers of Cali, who are the city's best food critics. Their ceviche mixto (shrimp, fish, octopus, and squid) is the most ordered, and for good reason: the portion is generous, and the reference price as of September 2026 is $22,000 COP. It's served with patacón and a homemade aji sauce they prepare with sweet chili, onion, and cilantro.

What makes this place different is that you can order the ceviche "seco" (without the lemon broth), and they'll prepare a kind of fish tartare with olive oil and red onion. It's a modern version you won't find in the tourist spots in northern Cali.

3. La Concha de Mi Vieja (Carrera 66 with Calle 9)

The name says it all. This place, which started as a small window in 2018, has become the favorite of young people looking for no-frills seafood. Its specialty is the piangua in coconut sauce, a dish that will change your life if you've never tried this Pacific mollusk. The portion costs $28,000 COP and includes coconut rice and a fresh tomato and avocado salad.

The place is small, seating about 10 people, but most customers order takeout. They pack everything in black plastic bags, as is done in the Pacific towns, and you can eat it wherever you like. I recommend pairing it with a natural lulo or borojó juice, sold on the corner.

4. Pescados y Mariscos El Muelle (Carrera 66 with Calle 10)

Don't be fooled by the generic name. This stall is famous for its shrimp ceviche with green mango, a combination that sounds strange but works perfectly. The mango's acidity contrasts with the sweetness of the fresh shrimp, resulting in a refreshing dish ideal for Cali's heat. It costs $24,000 COP and comes with fried yuca.

El Muelle has an advantage over the others: it's open until 8:00 pm, making it the perfect option if you work late or want to go after the office. However, I warn you that after 4:00 pm, the product isn't as fresh as in the morning, so if you can, go early.

5. Sabor a Pacífico (Carrera 66 with Calle 6, corner)

This is the newest in the corridor, opened in 2022, but it already has a loyal following. Its specialty is the fish ceviche with leche de tigre, a version they learned from Peruvians but adapted to the Cali palate with more heat and less onion. The dish costs $20,000 COP and is perfect for those wanting something light yet flavorful.

What I like about this place is their transparency about their product: they have a sign that says "we receive fresh fish today at 6:00 am," and if you ask, they'll show you the whole fish before preparing it. That's trust, and in this area, trust is earned through actions.

The Ritual of Eating on Carrera 66: Bags, Bread Spoons, and No Utensils

If you're from out of town, the first thing you'll notice is that nobody uses plates. Here, ceviche is served in transparent plastic bags, tied at the top, and you eat directly from the bag or pour it onto a piece of newspaper. It's not unhygienic; it's tradition and practicality. Pacific fishermen have carried ceviche this way for generations because it's the easiest way to transport and eat it at sea.

The "bread spoon" is another ritual you must learn. Instead of utensils, you use a piece of bread (usually a soft baguette or yuca bread) to scoop up the ceviche. This isn't just a custom; it's a sensible way to eat: the bread absorbs the lemon and aji juice, and each bite is a perfect mix of textures. If you ask for utensils, the waiters will give you a strange look, but they'll provide them. I recommend you take the plunge and try the local way.

Another little-known fact: here, ceviche isn't accompanied by toasted corn like in Peru, but with patacones or fried yuca. And if you order "ceviche con todo," they'll add shrimp, fish, octopus, squid, and, if you're lucky, a piece of cazón (small shark). But ask first, because not all stalls have cazón every day.

What to Avoid at the Marisquerías on Carrera 66

Not everything that glitters is gold, and in this area, there are also stalls that will sell you frozen product at fresh prices. Here are my tips for telling the difference:

• Smell doesn't lie: fresh fish doesn't smell fishy. If you smell a strong, penetrating sea odor from outside the stall, walk away. Fresh product has a mild, sweet aroma.
• Shrimp texture: fresh shrimp is firm and has a slightly translucent texture. If the shrimp is opaque, soft, or falls apart when touched, it's frozen that's been thawed multiple times.
• Fish color: fresh white fish (like corvina or pargo) should have a pale pink or bright white color. If it's grayish or yellowish, don't buy it.
• The lemon test: fresh ceviche "cooks" in lemon in about 10-15 minutes. If the fish is already "cooked" when served, it's because it was frozen and then marinated. A good stall prepares the ceviche to order, not in advance.
• Ask about the origin: a good stall will tell you the product came from Buenaventura or Tumaco that same morning. If they say it came from Bogotá or they don't know, be wary.

I also recommend avoiding stalls offering "all-inclusive" at too-low prices (under $15,000 COP for a mixed ceviche plate). Fresh seafood has a cost, and if they're charging so little, the product probably isn't the best quality.

The Best Time to Go: Between 11 am and 2 pm

If there's a golden rule on Carrera 66, it's this: go between 11:00 am and 2:00 pm. Why? Because the fish and seafood arrive from Buenaventura in refrigerated trucks around 9:00-10:00 am, and the cooks need a couple of hours to clean, gut, and prepare them. If you arrive at 11:00 am, you'll taste the product at its peak freshness.

After 2:00 pm, the product has been out of the water for several hours, and the flavor isn't the same. Plus, many stalls close between 3:00 and 4:00 pm to rest and prepare for the evening. If you arrive at 3:30 pm, you'll likely find everything closed or be offered lunch leftovers.

Another advantage of going early is avoiding the crowds. At lunchtime, the area fills with office workers, taxi drivers, and students from the Universidad Santiago de Cali nearby. There are lines, but they're worth it. And if you're in a group, I recommend one person wait in line while others find a table and order drinks.

How to Get to Carrera 66

Carrera 66 is easy to locate. If you're in northern Cali (Chipichape area or Calle 5 with Carrera 80), take Calle 5 east until you reach Carrera 66. If you're in the south (El Peñón or San Antonio area), head north on Calle 5 or take Carrera 66 from Calle 15. The area is between Calles 5 and 10, so it's quite compact.

For public transportation, you can take the MIO and get off at the Calle 5 with Carrera 66 station (Cañaverales station) or the Calle 9 with Carrera 66 station (Meléndez station). From either station, walk a few blocks into the corridor.

If you're driving, keep in mind parking is tricky. There's a private lot on Carrera 66 with Calle 8 that charges around $3,000 COP per hour, but it fills up fast. I recommend taking a taxi or ride-hailing service so you don't have to worry about your car.

Conclusion: Dare to Try the Concha (Piangua)

Carrera 66 is more than just a gastronomic corridor; it's a cultural experience that connects you with the Pacific's culinary roots. From the plastic bag ritual to the bread spoon, every detail tells the story of a community that has turned necessity into tradition. The marisquerías here aren't just places to eat; they're spaces where the Afro-Colombian heritage of the coast is celebrated with every bite.

My final advice: don't leave without trying the piangua. This mollusk, harvested by women shellfishers from the mangroves of the Pacific, is a treasure that you won't easily find elsewhere. Its intense, briny flavor is an acquired taste, but once you get it, there's no going back. And remember, the best way to eat it is the local way: with your hands, from a bag, and with a piece of bread to soak up every last drop of juice.

So, the next time someone tells you that Cali is only about salsa and sancocho, invite them to Carrera 66. Here, between the sizzle of the grill and the sound of salsa, you'll discover the true flavor of the Colombian Pacific, served with generosity and pride. Buen provecho!