Introduction: Cerro de las Tres Cruces as a Green Lung and Clandestine Canvas
If you have ever looked up at the hillsides of Cali and wondered what lies beyond the three white crosses that crown the hill, the answer will surprise you. It is not just a tourist viewpoint or a place to exercise on Sundays. Cerro de las Tres Cruces has been, for over two decades, an open-air museum that few know about. While traditional hikers go up the main paved route, a group of urban muralists, graffiti artists, and activists have been marking the hidden trails with artworks that tell stories of resistance, Cali identity, and nature. In June 2026, this route remains a treasure for those seeking outdoor experiences with a city flavor, far from the noise of tourist areas.
What makes this place unique is that there are no official maps or signage. The murals appear suddenly: a giant face emerging among the trees, a political message spray-painted on a rock, a tribute to Afro-Colombian culture in the middle of the mud. You don't come here for the usual hike; you come to decipher a visual code that locals have built up the hillside. And the best part: all this is less than 20 minutes from downtown Cali.
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The Forgotten Murals: Stories of Graffiti Artists and Activists Who Marked the Path
To understand this route, you need to know that Cerro de las Tres Cruces was not always a canvas. In the early 2000s, several urban art collectives from Cali began using the walls of abandoned houses and the retaining walls of the hill as spaces for expression. Among them, the collective La Ciudad Mestiza and the group Grafiteros de la 14 were pioneers. Their works, many now weathered by sun and rain, are still there, telling stories from the time when the hill was a disputed territory between ecotourism and urban expansion.
One of the most emblematic murals is halfway up the eastern trail: a 10-meter-high piece depicting Petronio Álvarez, the musician from Cali, holding a bamboo marimba. It was painted in 2015 by the artist known as Kronos, and although the sun has faded it, it remains a meeting point for hikers who know where to find it. Next to it, there is a spray-painted message that says: "The hill is not for sale, it is defended", a remnant of protests against real estate projects that threatened the area a few years ago.
Another important mural is on the trail that descends towards the San Antonio neighborhood. It is a portrait of Mujer Cimarrón, a female figure with a turban and machete, representing Afro-descendant resistance. It was painted by the collective Muros Negros in 2018, and it is one of the best-preserved because it is protected by a zinc awning. If you look closely, you will see the signature is accompanied by a phrase: "Freedom is not asked for, it is taken". This is no coincidence: Cerro de las Tres Cruces was used as an escape route by enslaved people during the colonial era, a fact that few tour guides mention.
But not all the art is political. There are also more playful murals, like a huge colorful jaguar leaping through the branches, painted by artist Felipe Londoño in 2020. It is on a sharp curve of the northern trail, almost hidden behind a blackberry bush. Locals call it "The tiger of the hill", and they say that whoever finds it will have good luck for the rest of the year.
Step-by-Step Route: Where to Find the Artworks and How to Get There Without Getting Lost
This route is not for everyone. Forget the paved path that goes up from Calle 5 with Carrera 1. That one is for those who want to get to the crosses quickly and take the obligatory photo. The urban muralist route is different: it starts in the San Antonio neighborhood, specifically at the Plazoleta de San Antonio, where there is a small stone staircase that goes down towards the El Chocho creek. From there, the trail becomes dirt, with steep climbs and loose stones.
Point 1: The Wall of Names
About 200 meters from the square, on a concrete wall facing the creek, there is a collective mural where over 30 artists left their signatures and tags. It is easy to recognize because it is full of neon colors. Here you can see everything from the classic “Cali is salsa” to references to the city's hip hop culture. Don't linger too long: the sun is strong here and the trail gets narrower.
Point 2: The Artist's House
Continuing along the trail for about 15 minutes, you will reach an abandoned two-story house, with broken windows and walls completely covered in graffiti. Neighbors call it “The artist's house” because for years it was the workshop of a muralist known as El Búho. On the main facade, there is a mural of a huge owl with open wings, and on the back, a tribute to Héctor Lavoe with a microphone and a rose. The place is in poor condition, but the artworks are still impressive. Be careful with the floor: there is debris and broken glass.
Point 3: The Jaguar Lookout
After the house, the trail forks. Take the left path, which goes up for about 10 minutes to a small clearing. There is the colorful jaguar mural I mentioned before. From this point, the view of Cali is spectacular: you see the entire city from the río Cali to the Parque Nacional Natural Farallones. It is a good place to rest, drink water, and take photos. However, there is no shade, so bring a cap or hat.
Point 4: The Path of Phrases
From the lookout, continue along the trail that hugs the hillside. Over the next 500 meters, you will see a series of rocks painted with short phrases in Spanish and English. Some are poetic ("The wind knows my name"), others are political ("No more mining in the hills"). They were painted by a women's collective called Mujeres de la Tierra in 2022. If you like photography, this is the most photogenic stretch of the entire route.
Point 5: The Crosses (Alternative End)
If you want to reach the three crosses, from the Path of Phrases there is a shortcut that zigzags up for about 20 minutes. The crosses themselves have no murals (they are painted white and are more of a religious symbol), but from up there you can see the entire route you took. It is a good way to end the hike, especially if you go at sunset. But don't let your guard down: the descent is more slippery than the ascent, especially if it has rained.
Best Times and Safety Tips for an Authentic Outdoor Experience
Cerro de las Tres Cruces is a safe place during the day, but like any outdoor space in Cali, precautions must be taken. The urban muralist route is not lit and has solitary stretches, so the best time is between 6:30 am and 11:00 am. In the afternoon, the sun is strong and there are no trees to provide shade on several stretches. If you go on weekends, you will likely meet other hikers, but during the week you will probably be alone most of the time.
Safety Tips
- Bring enough water: There are no shops or stalls on the route. Calculate at least 1.5 liters per person for a 3-hour hike (round trip).
- Wear closed-toe, non-slip shoes: The trails have loose stones and mud, especially after rain. Trail running shoes or light boots are ideal.
- Don't go alone if you don't know the area: Although it is safe, it is easy to get lost on the secondary trails. If it's your first time, look for a group on social media or hire a local guide. The Cali Outdoor collective organizes guided hikes on Saturdays.
- Sunscreen and repellent: The sun is intense even in June, and mosquitoes appear in the morning hours. Bring SPF 50 sunscreen and DEET repellent.
- Cell phone with battery: Cell signal is irregular in some sections. Download the route map on Google Maps before you leave (search for "Cerro de las Tres Cruces sendero este").
- Respect the artworks: Do not touch the murals or paint over them. Part of the magic of this route is that the works age naturally. If you want to leave your mark, there are designated spaces near the trail entrance.
What to Bring
- Light backpack (10-15 liters)
- Water and snacks (dried fruit, energy bars)
- Cap or hat
- Light waterproof jacket (in case of rain)
- Camera or cell phone with a good camera
- Cash (no card machines in the area)
Where to Eat or Drink Near the Route
After the hike, hunger strikes. Luckily, the San Antonio area is full of options to replenish your energy. Here are some recommendations, with reference prices from June 2026.
Option 1: Café San Antonio
At Calle 4 with Carrera 3, this café is a favorite among hikers. They have natural juices from $6,000 COP, pipián empanadas for $3,500 COP, and a specialty Cali coffee for $5,000 COP. The atmosphere is relaxed, with tables on the terrace and live music on weekends. They are open Monday to Saturday, 7:00 am to 9:00 pm.
Option 2: La Tertulia
If you want something more substantial, the restaurant La Tertulia, at Carrera 1 with Calle 5, offers typical dishes like bandeja paisa ($25,000 COP) and sancocho de gallina ($18,000 COP). It is a family-friendly place with generous portions. They are open Tuesday to Sunday, 11:00 am to 8:00 pm.
Option 3: Punto de la 14
At Calle 14 with Carrera 2, there is a street stall that sells cholados (shaved ice with fruit and condensed milk) for $5,000 COP and lulo juice in a bag for $2,000 COP. It is perfect for cooling down after the hike. It is open every day, from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.
How to Get There and Transportation
Getting to the start of the route is easy from any point in Cali. The starting point is the Plazoleta de San Antonio, in the San Antonio neighborhood. Here are your options:
By Public Transport
- MIO: Take route T1 or T2 to the San Antonio station. From there, walk 5 minutes along Calle 5 east to reach the square. The fare is $2,800 COP (2026 rate).
- Buseta: The buses that go along Carrera 1 (routes P24 or P47) drop you off at Calle 5 with Carrera 1. From there, go up some stairs and you will reach the square.
By Taxi or App
- From downtown Cali, a taxi costs between $8,000 and $12,000 COP. From the south (El Ingenio neighborhood), about $18,000 COP. Use apps like InDrive or Cabify for fairer prices.
By Private Car
- There is parking at Calle 5 with Carrera 1, right next to the square. It costs $5,000 COP per hour. I do not recommend leaving the car on darker streets; it is better to pay for the guarded parking lot.
Local Tips for an Authentic Experience
- Get up early: The murals look best in the morning light (between 7:00 am and 9:00 am). The midday sun creates harsh shadows that ruin photos.
- Talk to the neighbors: In the San Antonio neighborhood, many older adults know stories about the murals. Ask at the corner store (Tienda Don Eulogio, at Calle 4 with Carrera 2) and they will tell you who painted what and when.
- Don't use GPS all the time: Part of the charm of this route is getting a little lost. If you see a trail that is not on the map, take it. Many small murals are on detours that don't appear in any guide.
- Bring a notebook: Some murals have QR codes or phrases that invite you to write. On the Path of Phrases, there is a sign that says: "Leave your own message on the empty rock". You can write with a marker (bring one) and become part of the artwork.
- Respect the silence: The hill is home to birds like hummingbirds and woodpeckers. If you go in a group, speak softly. Locals complain that noisy tourists scare the animals away.
- Curious date: Every May 3rd, the collective Muros Vivos organizes a mural restoration day on the hill. If you are in Cali on that date, join in. It is free and they teach you mural painting techniques.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to do this route alone?
Generally, yes, if you go in the morning and stick to the main trails. However, some sections of the muralist route are solitary, especially during the week. If you don't know the area, it is better to go with someone or join an organized group. Keep your cell phone charged and avoid displaying valuables.
Are the murals signed or do they have any official registry?
Most are signed by the artists, but there is no official catalog. Some collectives have tried to create a digital map, but it hasn't materialized. The best way to learn about the artworks is by asking the neighbors or searching on social media with the hashtag #MurosDeTresCruces. There you will find photos and stories from other hikers.
Can I bring my dog?
Yes, but on a leash and with bags to pick up their waste. The hill is a protected area and must be kept clean. Also, some sections have steep slopes and loose stones, so make sure your dog is in good physical condition. Bring water for them too.
Are there bathrooms on the route?
There are no public bathrooms on the hill. The only option is to use the bathrooms at the cafés in San Antonio before starting the hike. Café San Antonio and La Tertulia allow you to use their bathrooms if you buy something.
How long does the complete route take?
It depends on the pace. The muralist route (not including the climb to the crosses) takes between 2 and 3 hours round trip, with stops for photos and rests. If you decide to go all the way to the three crosses, add 1 more hour. In total, plan for half a day if you want to enjoy it leisurely.
In the end, what makes this route special is not just the murals, but the feeling of discovering something that most people overlook. While tourists crowd the lookout at the crosses, you will be finding a colorful jaguar among the trees, reading phrases written by women who defend the land, and feeling that Cali has much more than salsa and nightlife. The outdoor experience here is something else: it is political, it is artistic, it is human. So the next time someone tells you that Cerro de las Tres Cruces is just another hike, smile and tell them what you found on the hidden trails. And if you feel like it, share your own favorite mural using #MurosDeTresCruces and tag us so it appears in our next special. See you on the hill.
What to Do
Explore the Cerro de las Tres Cruces Trail
This trail, in addition to offering a panoramic view of Cali, is a true urban art gallery. As you climb, you will find murals that tell stories of Cali's culture and community. The ideal is to go early in the morning to avoid crowds and enjoy the fresh air.
Insider Tip: Bring your camera, because the murals change frequently. Also, consider joining a local group of artists who offer guided tours of the hill, where you will not only see the artworks but also learn about the social context that inspires them.
Visit Plaza de los Perros
After the hike, this is a perfect place to relax. The square is a meeting point for dog lovers and a place where you can enjoy a good cup of local coffee. Here, the community gathers to socialize and share stories.
Insider Tip: Don't miss the famous house coffee "Café San Alberto", which is recognized for its quality. Also, there are local artists who often sell their works around the square, so you can take home an authentic souvenir of your visit.
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