Gravel Biking in Cali: The Route of the Sugar Mills and the Forgotten Wetlands

Introduction: The Cali few pedal

Did you know that less than 40 minutes by bike from the Torre de Cali you can be pedaling between sugarcane fields taller than your head, with the smell of burnt panela in the air and the only sound being wetland birds? While most people are fighting traffic in Cali or climbing to Pance for the umpteenth time, there's a circuit few know about that gives you a completely different version of the city: the route of the sugar mills and the forgotten wetlands of the east.

This August 2026 guide is for you, gravel or mountain biker, looking for more than just kilometers. It's for those who want to understand how sugar built this region and how nature resists disappearing among oxidation lagoons and industrial crops. Here I'll tell you how to leave the city without touching a main avenue, the easement roads the mills maintain (and that you can legally use), the best spots to observe herons and common gallinules, and the secret shortcuts to get back without exhausting yourself.

Get ready: this isn't a Sunday ride. It's 70 to 90 kilometers of dirt, gravel, cane dust, and water. But I promise you that at the end, when you're sipping a lulada in the east watching the sunset over the Cordillera Central, you'll understand why this is the route every cyclist in Cali should do at least once.

The starting point: how to leave the city without touching the main avenues

The biggest mistake of anyone attempting this route for the first time is wanting to leave via Calle 25 or the Autopista Simón Bolívar. Big mistake: not only is it dangerous due to the heavy truck traffic heading to the mills, but you'll miss the best dirt roads from the very first kilometer.

The classic starting point is the Parque de los Gatos in the San Fernando neighborhood, but if you live north or south, you can adjust. The key is to get to Avenida 2 Norte and from there take the bike path that borders the Cali River eastward. Yes, it sounds counterintuitive to head toward the river to then go east, but it's the safest route and the one that connects you directly to the rural area.

The clean exit along the riverbank

From Parque de los Gatos, pedal north along Avenida 2 Norte until you reach the Puente de Juanambú. There, instead of crossing, follow the trail that borders the Cali River eastward. This path is compacted dirt, perfect for gravel, and takes you to Carrera 8 with Calle 70 in the La Flora neighborhood. It's about 8 kilometers of warm-up without hitting a single traffic light.

When you reach the height of the Centro Comercial Chipichape (which will be on your right, don't get confused), you'll find a service road running parallel to Avenida 3N. Take it carefully: it's two-way and sometimes maintenance vehicles for the power towers pass by. But it's the last stretch of asphalt you'll see for a while.

Crossing the Cauca River: the moment of truth

Your goal is to reach the Puente de la Esperanza (also known as the Juanchito bridge). Not the pedestrian bridge, but the one that connects to the road toward the municipality of Candelaria. This crossing is the invisible border between urban Cali and rural Cali. On the other side, the pavement turns into a yellowish gravel that will accompany you for the next 20 kilometers.

Important note: the bridge has a narrow emergency lane. For safety, cross it during low-traffic hours (before 7:00 am is ideal) and always in single file if you're in a group. Cane trucks don't brake for anyone, especially not at 6 in the morning.

Section 1: The sugarcane fields and the sugar mills' easement roads

Welcome to the green heart of Colombia. From the bridge on, you'll be pedaling between what locals call "los cañaduzales": endless sugarcane plantations stretching as far as the eye can see. This is the land of the mills, and here the rules are clear: easement roads are public, but the crops are private. Don't leave the main road, don't go into the cane fields (there are snakes and armed mill personnel), and respect harvest times.

The easement road: your legal right to ride

Many people don't know this, but under Colombian law, sugar mills are required to maintain easement roads for the passage of vehicles and people. These roads are dirt, perfectly compacted by the passage of tractors and dump trucks, and they're a paradise for gravel. You'll find endless straightaways where you can let go of the handlebars and let the bike fly, tight curves among the cane that make you feel like you're in a green labyrinth, and some sections with loose sand that will make you work.

The main route is the one heading toward the Ingenio Providencia. This is one of the oldest mills in the region (dating back to the 1920s) and its white chimney is visible for kilometers. If you go at the right time (between 8:00 am and 11:00 am), you'll see tractors dragging trailers of freshly cut cane, and the air fills with a sweet smell mixed with earth that's impossible to describe.

What to bring for this section

This is the longest section and the one that will demand the most physically. It's about 15 kilometers of continuous gravel, with some false flats that will make you sweat. Bring at least 1.5 liters of water per person, because from the bridge there are no stores until you reach the El Carmelo township.

Sugarcane tends to invade the edges of the road, so watch out for the leaves: they're sharp like sandpaper and can cut your legs if you don't wear long socks or gaiters. This isn't a sightseeing ride; it's a serious gravel route, so technical clothing isn't optional.

The "carreteables" shortcut

If you come from mountain biking and gravel feels too easy, there's a variant local cyclists call "los carreteables": even narrower roads that go directly between the rows of cane. They're technical, with deep ruts and exposed roots, and I don't recommend them if you're on a gravel bike with tires under 45mm. But if you have a mountain bike, they're a gem.

The most well-known one leaves at around kilometer 12 and takes you directly to the El Carmelo township without touching the main road. It's 6 kilometers of pure mud and cane, with some irrigation canal crossings that will test your skills. If you're not sure about your level, stick to the main road: it's safer and faster.

Section 2: El Pondaje wetland and its hidden birdlife

After the sugarcane fields, the landscape changes abruptly. You arrive at the El Pondaje Township, an area that appears as "industrial zone" on official maps but actually holds one of Cali's best-kept secrets: a wetland of black and green waters that hosts an impressive number of birds.

The El Pondaje wetland isn't an ecological park and has no marked trails. It's a real wetland, the kind the city has surrounded with warehouses and treatment plants, but the birds haven't abandoned it. And that's exactly what makes it special: no tourists, no entrance fee, no park rangers. Just you, your bike, and hundreds of birds watching you suspiciously from the reeds.

Where exactly to stop

The exact spot is Carrera 28 with Calle 119, in the industrial sector of El Pondaje. There's an earthen dike separating the wetland from the bulk sugar storage warehouses. Climb up the dike (it's barely 200 meters of compacted dirt) and you'll have a panoramic view of the water.

The best hours for birdwatching are early morning (6:00 am to 8:00 am) and late afternoon (4:00 pm to 6:00 pm). If you arrive at the wetland around 9:00 am after leaving Cali early, you'll still see activity, but don't expect the frenzy of the early hours.

The stars of the wetland: herons, common gallinules, and kingfishers

In a single 30-minute visit you can easily see:

• White herons (great egret and little egret): they're the most visible, perching on dry trunks sticking out of the water.
• Common gallinules (waterhens