The Pacific in Every Bite: The Afro Heritage That Defines Cali
If there is one thing that distinguishes Cali from other Colombian cities, it is the way it sounds, moves, and above all, tastes. The Afro-descendant influence is not only in the salsa music that booms on the corners of barrio Obrero or in the rhythm of the marimbas from Chocó: it is in the pot from which the encocado comes, in the stove where the fried fish browns, and in the aroma of cilantro that seeps through the streets of Vallado. The cuisine of the Colombian Pacific is the heart of Cali's identity, a mix that arrived with the enslaved people brought during the colonial era and has since become the soul of the local table.
Today, in May 2026, Cali is experiencing a rebirth of Afro cuisine. Restaurants that have preserved grandmothers' recipes for decades blend with new proposals that reinterpret the legacy without losing the essence. For the foodie seeking authentic experiences, this city offers a sensory journey that starts at the market and ends with a steaming bowl of sancocho. There are no pretensions here: there is history, there is resistance, and there is a flavor you won't forget.
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What Makes Afro-Pacific Cuisine Unique?
The gastronomy of the Colombian Pacific is a testament to cultural survival. The base ingredients —coconut, plantain, river fish, seafood, and tubers like ñame and yuca— are the same ones used by African ancestors, adapted to the geography of the coast. The secret lies in the technique: the use of grated and squeezed coconut to obtain milk and cream, slow cooking in plantain leaves, and the combination of spices like garlic, cumin, and cilantro. Each dish tells a story of barter, celebration, or mourning.
In Cali, this cuisine found a second home. The city, gateway to the Pacific, has adopted these recipes as its own. From popular eateries to high-end restaurants, the encocado de pescado, arroz atollado, and tapao de bagre are as caleño as salsa music. But it's not all tradition: there are young chefs experimenting with modern techniques, creating dishes that respect the roots but look forward.
Iconic Restaurants Preserving Traditions
Here are the places that any lover of Afro cuisine should not miss in Cali. Each has its own personality, history, and signature dish. Prices are a reference for May 2026 and may vary.
La Casa del Encocado
Address: Carrera 5 # 8-45, barrio San Antonio
Price range: Main courses between $25,000 and $45,000 COP
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm – 9pm
This restaurant is an institution. Since 1995, the Mosquera family has served encocados that are pure Pacific flavor. The atmosphere is warm, with wooden walls and photos of the coast. The encocado de camarón is the king: a thick coconut, garlic, and onion sauce bathing fresh shrimp, served with white rice and patacón. Don't forget to order borojó juice, an aphrodisiac fruit from the Pacific that will leave you ready to dance salsa.
Donde Mary
Address: Calle 15 # 4-50, barrio El Peñón
Price range: Dishes between $18,000 and $35,000 COP
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am – 8pm
Mary is a lady from Chocó who has been cooking like at home for 30 years. Her place is small, with plastic tables and a smell that grabs you from the door. The sancocho de gallina criolla is legendary: a thick broth with yuca, plantain, corn on the cob, and chicken that falls off the bone. She serves it with rice, avocado, and a homemade chili that is spicy but not burning. It's the kind of food that hugs your soul.
Restaurante El Solar del Pacífico
Address: Avenida 3N # 5-30, barrio Granada
Price range: Dishes between $30,000 and $60,000 COP
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm – 10pm
A more sophisticated space, with a terrace overlooking Parque del Perro. Here, chef Juan Carlos Riascos reinterprets Pacific flavors with contemporary techniques. The tamal de pescado envuelto en hoja de bijao is a work of art: corn dough filled with catfish, shrimp, and a touch of coconut milk, all steamed. It comes with a sweet chili sauce that provides a perfect contrast. It's expensive by local standards, but worth every peso if you're looking for a complete gastronomic experience.
Fonda Pácífico
Address: Carrera 1 # 12-34, barrio San Pascual
Price range: Dishes between $12,000 and $22,000 COP
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 8am – 4pm
If you want to eat like a local without spending much, this eatery is the place. It's a street stall with a zinc roof, where the ladies cook in clay pots. The arroz atollado is the dish of the day: a creamy rice with pork ribs, potato, carrot, and a touch of color. They also sell fish empanadas and plantain buñuelos. Arrive early because it sells out fast.
Must-Try Dishes and Their Cultural Meanings
Afro cuisine is not just food: it is a language. Each dish has a context, a reason for being. Here I explain the ones you can't miss and what they represent.
Encocado de pescado o camarón
The encocado is the star dish of the Pacific. It is prepared with fresh fish (catfish, snapper, or sierra) or shrimp, cooked in a sauce of coconut milk, onion, garlic, bell pepper, and cilantro. The technique comes from West Africa, where coconut was a staple ingredient. In Afro-Colombian culture, the encocado is served at family celebrations and patron saint festivals. It is a dish that unites, shared in a totuma (a gourd bowl) among all diners.
Sancocho de gallina criolla
Sancocho is Colombia's national soup, but the Pacific version is special. It is made with gallina criolla (a firmer, more flavorful chicken breed), yuca, green plantain, corn on the cob, potato, and a seasoning of cilantro and scallion. In Afro tradition, sancocho is prepared in large pots to feed the entire community during mingas (collective work) or after a wake. It is a dish of comfort and resistance.
Arroz atollado
A creamy and thick rice, similar to a risotto, that contains pork ribs, chicken, potato, carrot, peas, and a touch of color. It is a humble dish, made with whatever ingredients were in the pantry. In Cali, it is eaten on weekends at eateries, accompanied by avocado and a squeeze of lime. Its name comes from "atollar," meaning to get stuck, because the rice is so thick it almost sticks.
Tapao de bagre
A dish from the Chocó region that has become popular in Cali. Catfish (a river fish) is cooked wrapped in plantain leaves, with tomato, onion, garlic, bell pepper, and coconut milk. It is served with white rice and patacón. The cooking technique in plantain leaves (tapado) is an African heritage that allows flavors to concentrate. It is a dish prepared during Christmas and New Year celebrations.
Gastronomic Experiences Beyond the Restaurant
Eating in Cali is not limited to sitting at a table. The city offers experiences that connect you with Afro culture in a deeper way.
Visit to Mercado La Alameda
This traditional market, in the La Alameda neighborhood, is the epicenter of Cali's cuisine. Here you find stalls with exotic fruits like borojó, chontaduro, and lulo, as well as fresh fish brought from the Pacific. Talk to the vendors, many of them Afro-descendants, who will tell you how they prepare their products. Don't leave without trying a glass of chontaduro con leche, an energy drink locals use to keep up with the party.
Afro Cooking Classes
Several restaurants offer workshops where you learn to prepare dishes like encocado or arroz atollado. For example, La Casa del Encocado organizes sessions on Saturdays at 10am, costing $50,000 COP per person. It includes ingredients, the recipe, and tasting. It's a way to take a piece of the Pacific home with you.
Pacific Gastronomic Route
Some local agencies organize tours through neighborhoods with the strongest Afro tradition, such as Vallado, Obrero, and San Pascual. The route includes stops at eateries, markets, and family homes that cook ancestral recipes. Ask at the Cali Tourism Office (Carrera 5 # 6-58) for authorized operators. Prices range from $80,000 to $120,000 COP per person, including transportation.
How to Get There and Transportation
Cali is a large city, but most of the mentioned restaurants are in central or tourist areas. Here are the options for getting around:
- MÍO (local Transmilenio): The articulated bus system covers the entire city. To get to San Antonio (La Casa del Encocado), get off at the San Antonio station and walk 5 minutes. For El Peñón (Donde Mary), use the Tequendama station.
- Taxi: They are affordable and safe. A trip within the center costs between $7,000 and $15,000 COP. Apps like Uber and Didi work well.
- On foot: The neighborhoods of San Antonio, El Peñón, and Granada are walkable. If you stay in the center, you can reach most restaurants in a 20-minute walk.
- Bicycle: Cali has bike lanes on Sundays from 7am to 1pm. Some restaurants like El Solar del Pacífico have bike parking.
Local Tips
- Bring cash: Many eateries and street stalls do not accept cards. ATMs are in the center, but it's better to withdraw money beforehand.
- Ask for the chili on the side: Pacific chili is spicy, but not as much as in other regions. If you are sensitive, ask for it in a separate container.
- Flexible hours: Restaurants in Cali close early (around 9pm). If you want a late dinner, look for options in Granada or Parque del Perro.
- Don't miss the borojó juice: It's a natural energizer that locals use to beat the heat. It has a bittersweet taste that might be strange at first, but it's addictive.
- Ask for the dish of the day: Many restaurants change their menu based on what is fresh at the market. The dish of the day is usually cheaper and more authentic.
- Respect the tradition: Afro cuisine is a cultural legacy. Don't criticize the flavors or textures, and if you don't like something, just say so respectfully.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time to visit Afro cuisine restaurants in Cali?
Weekends are ideal, especially Saturdays at noon, when there is more activity and the dishes are freshly made. Many restaurants close on Sunday nights, so check hours. If you want to avoid crowds, go during the week, Tuesday to Thursday.
Is the area of the mentioned restaurants safe?
Yes, the neighborhoods of San Antonio, El Peñón, and Granada are touristy and have a police presence. However, as in any city, do not display valuables and avoid walking alone at night on poorly lit streets. The eateries in San Pascual are safe during the day, but I do not recommend going after 6pm.
Can I find vegetarian or vegan options in Afro cuisine?
Pacific cuisine is very meat-oriented, but there are options. Arroz atollado can be ordered without meat, and vegetable encocado (with plantain, yuca, and ñame) is an alternative some restaurants offer. Ask at La Casa del Encocado or Donde Mary, as they usually adapt dishes. There are also stalls with potato empanadas and plantain buñuelos that are vegan.
What to Do
La Casona del Cuy
This restaurant pays homage to Afro-Colombian gastronomy with a menu that includes delicacies like cuy and fish sancocho. The decor is inspired by Pacific culture, creating a cozy and authentic atmosphere.
Insider Tip: Don't miss the live marimba dance they often offer on weekends. It's an experience that combines food with music, a true feast for the senses.
El Templo del Dulce
At this place, you can enjoy typical desserts from the region, such as guanábana sweets and pineapple compote. The selection of sweets reflects the Afro heritage passed down through generations.
Insider Tip: Ask for the sweet samples. They often offer tastings so you can try different flavors before choosing one.
Restaurante El Chato
It offers a menu that fuses Afro-Colombian cuisine with modern touches, presenting dishes like ajiaco with a sea flavor. Its atmosphere is festive and perfect for sharing with friends or family.
Insider Tip: Book in advance, especially on weekends, as it tends to fill up quickly. Also, don't hesitate to ask the staff for recommendations; they are very knowledgeable about the dishes.