Humedales de Suba: Birdwatching in the City
Did you know that in the heart of northwestern Bogotá, just blocks from shopping malls and residential complexes, there are two wildlife sanctuaries where you can see herons, ducks, gallinules, and even the elusive sword-billed hummingbird? Suba, a neighborhood many know for the traffic jams on the Autopista Norte or for its wetlands —yes, those that look like forgotten lagoons— is actually one of the best spots in the city for birdwatching. And the best part: you don't need to be an expert ornithologist or have expensive gear. You just need curiosity, a pair of sharp eyes, and, if possible, some basic binoculars.
In this guide, I'll tell you everything you need to know to enjoy the Humedal Juan Amarillo (also known as Humedal Tibabuyes) and the Humedal Santa María del Lago, two ecological gems in Suba that, in July 2026, are at their best thanks to the rainy season attracting hundreds of migratory species.
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Historical and Contextual Introduction
Suba wasn't always this sea of buildings and avenues. Centuries ago, the Muisca people inhabited these lands around the Tibabuyes lagoon, which means "Land of Farmers." With the arrival of the Spanish and the urban expansion of the 20th century, much of the original wetlands were drained or filled in. But two survived: the Humedal Juan Amarillo (or Tibabuyes), with 222 hectares, and the Humedal Santa María del Lago, a smaller but equally vital ecosystem of 12 hectares.
Today, both are part of Bogotá's Protected Areas System and have been restored with boardwalks, viewpoints, and interpretation centers. They are not just ponds with ducks: they are biological corridors connecting the Cerros Orientales with the Bogotá River, and each year they receive migratory birds traveling from North America. For locals, they are the green lung that allows them to breathe amidst the chaos; for tourists, an opportunity to see nature without leaving the city.
What to Do at the Humedales de Suba
Explore the Humedal Juan Amarillo (Tibabuyes)
This is the largest wetland in Bogotá, and it offers the most options. It has a main trail nearly 3 kilometers long that borders the water mirror, with several wooden viewpoints and benches for sitting and observing. The ideal time to go is early, between 6:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m., when the birds are most active and there are fewer people. If you go in the afternoon, from 3:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m., you'll also see activity, but the sun can be intense.
Inside the wetland, there is an environmental education center where they sometimes give free talks and workshops. There is no fixed schedule, so if you want to be sure, ask at the reception or check the social media of the Suba Local Mayor's Office.
Visit the Humedal Santa María del Lago
Smaller but more accessible, this wetland is located at Calle 127 with Carrera 52, right next to Parque Santa María del Lago. It has a circular trail less than a kilometer long, ideal for families with young children or elderly people. Here it's easier to see herons, mallards, and gallinules because the lake is more open and the birds come quite close to the shore.
What many don't know is that Santa María del Lago has a butterfly garden and a small cloud forest worth exploring. Additionally, on weekends there are often environmental education activities for children, such as painting workshops or bird identification.
Birdwatching: 10 Species You Will Surely See
Here is a list of the most common birds in both wetlands, with the times you are most likely to see them. You don't need to be an expert: many are easy to identify by their color or size.
- Great Egret (Egretta alba) — Seen all day, but especially at dawn. It is white, tall, and slender. It often stands still in the water waiting for fish.
- Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) — Similar to the egret, but grey and larger. Active between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m.
- Spot-flanked Gallinule (Gallinula melanops) — A small black duck with a red beak. It moves in groups, flicking its tail. You'll see it all day, but it's more active in the morning.
- Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) — The classic park duck, with a green head on males. Easy to see at any time.
- Ruddy Duck (Oxyura jamaicensis) — Smaller, with a stiff tail. It dives to find food. Best in the morning.
- Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera) — Hard to see, but if you're lucky, you'll find it in the gardens of Santa María del Lago. It has a very long beak. Active at midday.
- Yellow-hooded Blackbird (Chrysomus icterocephalus) — A black bird with a yellow head. It is endemic to the wetlands of the Bogotá Savannah. Seen in groups, all day.
- Apolinar's Wren (Cistothorus apolinari) — Very small and elusive, but its song is unmistakable. Listen for it early in the morning among the reeds.
- Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) — Migratory. It arrives between September and March. If you go in July, it's less likely, but sometimes stragglers are seen. Look to the sky, especially at midday.
- Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris) — A small hawk that hunts from trees. You'll see it perched on high branches, especially in the afternoon.
To identify these birds, I recommend two free apps: Merlin Bird ID (from Cornell University, works offline if you download the Colombia pack) and eBird (to record your sightings and see what others have seen). With Merlin, you can upload a photo or describe the bird, and the app gives you the name. It's quite accurate.
Budget Binoculars and Basic Gear
You don't need to spend a fortune. A pair of 8x42 binoculars (8x magnification, 42mm lens) are perfect for wetlands. In Bogotá, you can find them from $80,000 COP at stores like Decathlon or Alkosto. Brands like Bushnell or Celestron have basic models for $120,000-$150,000 COP. If you're just starting out, don't buy anything more expensive: that's enough to see herons and ducks at 50 meters.
Besides binoculars, bring: a cap, sunscreen, water, a small notebook to jot down what you see, and most importantly: patience. Birds don't pose for you; you have to wait.
Where to Eat or Drink Near the Wetlands
After a morning of birdwatching, hunger strikes. Here are options near each wetland, with reference prices from July 2026.
Near Humedal Juan Amarillo
The main entrance to the wetland is at Carrera 91 with Calle 145. A few blocks away, on Calle 146, there are several fast-food restaurants and local eateries. A classic is El Corral de la 145 (Calle 145 # 91-20), with burgers from $15,000 COP. If you prefer something healthier, La Huerta de Suba (Carrera 92 # 145-30) sells bowls and salads for $22,000 COP. They are open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
For something typical, Restaurante Doña Rosa (Calle 147 # 90-15) serves bandeja paisa and ajiaco from $18,000 COP. It is open every day from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Near Humedal Santa María del Lago
This wetland is in a more residential area, but there are options. On Carrera 52 with Calle 127, you'll find Panadería Santa María, ideal for a coffee with almojábana (from $5,000 COP). If you want lunch, La Pizzería de la 127 (Calle 127 # 51-30) has personal pizzas from $14,000 COP. They are open Tuesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.
A fun fact: right next to the wetland, in Parque Santa María del Lago, there is a small mobile coffee shop that only opens on weekends, with organic coffee from the Sierra Nevada. Ask for the "Café del Humedal," which costs $6,000 COP and is delicious.
How to Get There and Transportation
By TransMilenio to Humedal Juan Amarillo
The easiest way is to take the feeder route 9-5 from the Suba - La Campiña station (line H, Portal Suba). The feeder drops you off at the wetland entrance on Carrera 91. The trip from downtown Bogotá takes about 50 minutes. If you're coming from the north, get off at the Niza station (line K) and take feeder bus 9-2 which takes you close to Calle 145.
By TransMilenio to Humedal Santa María del Lago
The nearest station is Santa María del Lago (line H, on the Autopista Norte). From there, walk 10 minutes west along Calle 127. You can also take feeder 9-3 from the Suba - Avenida Boyacá station.
By Bicycle
Suba has bike lanes connecting both wetlands. If you're biking from downtown, follow the bike lane on Calle 80 to Carrera 91, then head north. From the north, the bike lane on the Autopista Norte takes you to Calle 127. Both wetlands have guarded bicycle parking. The bike ride from Parque Simón Bolívar to Juan Amarillo takes about 40 minutes.
By Car or Taxi
If you go by car, both wetlands have free parking (Juan Amarillo's is small, so arrive early). A taxi from downtown costs around $25,000 COP (July 2026). Use apps like Uber or Didi, which are usually cheaper.
Local Tips for Enjoying the Wetlands
- Go on weekdays. On weekends there are more people, and the birds hide. If you can, get up early on a Tuesday or Thursday.
- Don't wear bright clothing. Dark or green colors work best. Birds get scared by red or yellow clothes.
- Bring insect repellent. The wetlands have mosquitoes, especially at dusk. Use one with DEET, available at any pharmacy.
- Respect the signs. Don't leave the trails, don't make excessive noise, and please, don't feed the ducks. Bread harms them and alters their natural diet.
- Download offline maps. At Humedal Juan Amarillo, cell signal is spotty. Download the Google Maps map or the Bogotá Mayor's Office app before you go.
- Fun fact: In the Humedal Juan Amarillo, there is a native turtle species called the Colombian slider (Trachemys callirostris). If you're lucky, you'll see it sunbathing on floating logs. Don't touch it: it's a protected species.
Wetland Care Rules
The Humedales de Suba are fragile ecosystems. So that they continue to be a refuge for birds and a space for recreation for everyone, please follow these rules:
- Do not litter. Take all your trash with you. There are no garbage cans inside the wetlands to avoid attracting animals.
- Do not bring pets. Dogs and cats scare birds and can hunt native species. Leave them at home.
- Do not play loud music. Noise stresses the birds. Use headphones if you want to listen to something.
- Do not collect plants, animals, or stones. Everything in the wetland has a function. Taking something can unbalance the ecosystem.
- Do not smoke. The dry vegetation can easily catch fire. Plus, the smoke bothers the birds and other visitors.
- Report any suspicious activity. If you see someone hunting, fishing, or damaging the facilities, call the Environmental Police at 123.
These rules are not just suggestions; they are established by the District Environmental Authority. If you don't follow them, you could face fines of up to $500,000 COP (July 2026).
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time of year to see migratory birds at the Humedales de Suba?
The migratory season runs from September to March. During those months, you can see species like the osprey, the yellow warbler, and the barn swallow. However, July is also good because many resident birds are nesting, and you can see chicks. Plus, the rains fill the lagoons, attracting more aquatic birds.
Are the wetlands safe to visit with young children?
Yes, but with precautions. The trails are flat and well-maintained, but there are no railings in some sections near the water. Keep children close and don't let them run. The Humedal Santa María del Lago is more suitable for young children because it is smaller and has a playground in the adjacent park.
Do I need a permit to enter the wetlands?
No, entry is free and open to the public. Both wetlands are open from 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., every day of the year. However, if you want to visit with a large group (more than 15 people), it is advisable to notify the environmental education center in advance to coordinate a guided tour. You can do so by calling the Suba Mayor's Office at 601 123 4567.
