Introduction: La Candelaria at Night and the Myth of the Colonial Basements
When the sun sets over the eastern hills of Bogotá, La Candelaria changes its skin. The cobblestone streets that during the day overflow with tourists carrying cameras and handicraft vendors empty out, and a heavy silence settles among the colonial facades. But not everything is still. Beneath those houses with red tile roofs and wooden balconies, there is a world few know: a network of basements dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, originally built as warehouses, refuges, or, according to locals, as escape tunnels during the wars of independence. Today, many of these spaces have been revived as bars, art workshops, and clandestine galleries. In July 2026, this route remains a well-kept secret among locals who know where to look.
The most persistent legend says these basements were connected by tunnels that led to the Monserrate hill, first used by the indigenous Muisca people and later by the Spanish to hide treasures. Reality or fiction? What is certain is that when you descend the spiral staircases of certain places, the air turns cold and damp, and the stone walls echo with another era. For the adventurous traveler seeking more than just selfies at Chorro de Quevedo, this is La Candelaria that truly matters.
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Stop 1: The Café Basement That Was a Secret Prison
We start on Calle 10, almost at the corner with Carrera 2. There, a faded yellow facade hides one of the neighborhood's darkest stories. The place is called Café del Fondo, and its facade has no flashy sign. Just a solid wooden door that, when opened, reveals a narrow hallway that smells of roasted coffee and wet earth. But what matters is downstairs.
Going down a brick staircase that seems never-ending, you arrive at a vaulted basement with bare stone walls. Here, the tables are recycled wooden planks and the light comes from candles and warm bulbs. According to the neighborhood's historical archives, this space was used as a temporary prison during the Spanish Reconquista era (1815-1819). Political prisoners were locked up here before being taken to the Plaza Mayor. Today, the basement is a specialty coffee shop where you can order a cinnamon cappuccino or a tinto with panela (ask for the "prisoner's drink," a coffee with a touch of aguardiente).
Fun fact: in 2019, during a renovation, a human bone was found embedded in one of the walls. The owners left it there, covered with glass, as a reminder of what this place was. If you are sensitive to the paranormal, it is not uncommon to hear waiters talk about footsteps on the floor above when the café is empty. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 4pm to 11pm. Reference prices for July 2026: coffees from $8,000 COP, the prisoner's drink $15,000 COP.
Stop 2: Engraving Workshops in Restored Vaults
A few blocks away, on Calle 12 with Carrera 3, there is a passage that seems straight out of a García Márquez novel. This is the Pasaje de las Bóvedas, a set of art workshops occupying what were once wine and oil warehouses during the viceroyalty. There are no bars here, but the atmosphere is equally underground: wrought iron doors open into rooms with brick vaulted ceilings, where local artists work in engraving, screen printing, and sculpture.
The best-known workshop is Taller de la Piedra, where master engraver Juan Pablo Rojas has been teaching etching and woodcut techniques for 20 years. Visitors can enter, see the process, and buy original works from $50,000 COP. But the most interesting thing is the history: according to records from the Bogotá Archive, these vaults were used as a hiding place for gold coins during the colonial era. In 1970, a group of workers found a treasure of 300 silver coins hidden in a crevice. Today, the workshop has a display case with some of those coins (replicas; the originals are in the Museo del Oro).
The schedule is irregular, so it is recommended to visit on weekdays (Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 5pm) and call ahead to confirm. On Saturdays, there are open workshops for the public at $30,000 COP per hour. Do not expect luxury: the floor is packed earth and the smell of ink and varnish is intense. But for lovers of authentic art, it is a paradise.
Stop 3: The Underground Jazz Bar with an Indigenous Cemetery History
The third stop is the most famous among those in the know. On Carrera 3, between Calles 11 and 12, there is a black door with no number. If you arrive and see nothing, wait: the bar is called La Cueva del Jazz, and it only opens Thursday to Saturday, from 8pm until people leave. To enter, you have to ring the bell and wait for someone to open from inside. There is no waiting list, just a "it's full" or "come in."
Going down the stairs (again, steep and stone), you enter an 80-square-meter basement with a tiny stage in one corner. The walls are covered with photographs of Colombian and foreign jazz musicians, and the ceiling is so low that people over 1.80 meters have to duck. But what makes this place unique is what lies beneath: according to archaeologists who studied the site in 2005, there was a Muisca cemetery here before the colonial house was built. During excavations to lay the wooden floor, they found bone remains and clay pots. The owners decided to leave a section of glass floor so customers can see the original pots, still embedded in the earth.
The live jazz is top-notch: from piano and double bass trios to saxophone solos that leave you breathless. There is no food, only craft beer (from $12,000 COP) and basic cocktails (whiskey, rum, vodka). Entry is free, but it is recommended to leave a tip for the musicians. Arrive early (8pm) because the capacity is only 40 people. And watch out: legends say that sometimes murmurs in Muisca are heard when the bar is empty. Reality or suggestion? You decide.
Epilogue: How to Access and What to Expect
This route is not for everyone. The basements of La Candelaria are damp, dark, and sometimes uncomfortable. The stairs are steep, the ceilings low, and the smell of mold is part of the experience. But for the traveler seeking something authentic, far from the usual tourist routes, it is a gem.
Practical tips:
- Reservations: Café del Fondo and Taller de la Piedra do not require reservations, but La Cueva del Jazz does accept reservations for groups of more than 6 people (ask at the door on the same day). There is no public phone number; the best way is to arrive early and speak with the owner.
- Hours: All places close before 1am, and La Candelaria can feel unsafe after that time. It is recommended to move in a group and use taxi apps like Uber or Didi for the return.
- Safety: La Candelaria at night is generally safe on the main streets (Calle 10, Carrera 3, Calle 12), but avoid dark alleys and do not take out your phone on the street. The basements are enclosed spaces, so do not leave your belongings unattended.
- What to bring: A light jacket (it is cold downstairs), non-slip shoes (the stairs can be slippery), and cash (many places do not accept cards).
If you want to go deeper, we have prepared an interactive map with the exact coordinates of each basement and updated safety alerts for July 2026. You can download it at malokal.com/mapa-sotanos-candelaria. It is free, but requires registration to prevent mass use.
Local Tips
- The best time to go: Weekdays (Tuesday to Thursday) are when there are fewer people and you can talk to the owners. On weekends, La Cueva del Jazz gets crowded and Café del Fondo may have a line.
- Don't miss the "secret passage": At Café del Fondo, ask them to show you the false door on the back wall. It is a wooden door that seems to lead to another basement, but it is walled up. The waiters say that behind it there is a tunnel that connected to the San Francisco church, 10 blocks away.
- Combine it with a visit to Chorro de Quevedo: This tourist spot is just a 5-minute walk from Calle 10. Go during the day, take photos, and then, at nightfall, do the basement route. It is a brutal contrast between the superficial and the deep.
- Talk to the artists: At Taller de la Piedra, the engravers are usually willing to chat if they are not in the middle of a job. Ask them about local legends; each one has their own version of the tunnels and ghosts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to visit the basements of La Candelaria at night?
Yes, as long as you take basic precautions. The main streets (Calle 10, Carrera 3, Calle 12) are well-lit and have tourist police presence until midnight. Avoid side alleys and do not walk alone after 1am. All places on the route have emergency exits and trained staff. If you arrive in a group and use private transportation to return, you will have no problems.
Do I need to make a reservation to enter La Cueva del Jazz?
It is not mandatory, but it is recommended if you are a large group (more than 6 people). The bar has a limited capacity of 40 people, and on weekends it fills up quickly. The best strategy is to arrive at 8pm, when they open, and speak directly with the owner. They have no website or public phone number, so reservations are made in person on the same day.
Is there an entrance fee for the art workshops?
Entering the Pasaje de las Bóvedas and Taller de la Piedra is free. Open workshops for the public (where you can learn engraving) cost $30,000 COP per hour, and include basic materials. If you only want to look and buy works, you pay nothing. It is recommended to bring cash, as not all artists accept cards.
What to Do
La Puerta Falsa
A classic that has been in La Candelaria since 1816, famous for its hot chocolate with cheese and empanadas. This place is a meeting point for both locals and visitors. Insider Tip: Go early to avoid long lines and enjoy the authentic atmosphere at the shared tables. Don't forget to try the ajiaco in the cold season.
El Gato Gris
This bar and art workshop is a space where creativity and culture intertwine. They offer painting and ceramics workshops, as well as an incredible cocktail menu. Insider Tip: Participate in one of their workshops; it is an excellent way to meet other local artists and take home a piece of art made by you.
Casa de la Cultura de la Candelaria
A place where art exhibitions and cultural events are held. There are often concerts and artistic performances that reflect the rich Bogotá culture. Insider Tip: Check the schedule before
