La Bogotá que se trepa: una ciudad de dos pisos
Did you know that Bogotá doesn't end where the mountain begins? Most tourists and even many locals settle for the postcard view of Monserrate or the Torre Colpatria viewpoint, but the city has a second skin: the neighborhoods that cling to the eastern hills and the southern slope. From La Perseverancia, right next to the historic center, to El Paraíso in Ciudad Bolívar, there is a network of informal viewpoints, endless staircases, and alleys with breathtaking views. This tour is not for the panoramic bus tourist; it's for those who want to see Bogotá with its guts exposed.
In August 2026, with the city in full intermittent rainy season and clear skies at dawn, these spots become the perfect plan for urban photographers and curious hikers. Here's my list, based on real walks and advice from locals who know every stone on the path.
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Mirador 1: La Perseverancia y el pulso del centro histórico
La Perseverancia is a working-class neighborhood founded in the early 20th century, famous for its Bavaria brewery and for having one of the rawest and most beautiful views of downtown Bogotá. It's not an official viewpoint: it's a set of staircases and alleys that climb from carrera 4 up to the road to Monserrate. The best-known spot is the "Plaza de la Perseverancia" area, but the real treasure is higher up, on the trails that border the creek channel.
Cómo llegar y qué esperar
To get there, take a bus or TransMilenio to the Universidades station and walk 15 minutes east along calle 26. The neighborhood begins at diagonal 26 with carrera 3. From there, climb the staircase that runs alongside the San Martín de Porres church. After about 20 minutes of moderate ascent, you'll find a natural viewpoint overlooking the zinc roofs and colorful facades of the neighborhood, with the historic center and Torre Colpatria in the background. There's no ticket booth or schedule: it's a public space, but it's recommended to go in a group and during the day.
Fun fact: this neighborhood was the first in Bogotá to have a communal aqueduct, and its streets still bear the names of the brewery's founders. Locals still tell stories of the "chircales" (brick factories) that existed before the neighborhood was consolidated.
For photographers: the afternoon light (between 3pm and 5pm) illuminates the facades head-on, and the sunset sky reflects off the glass of the downtown buildings. Bring a wide-angle lens to capture the depth of the staircases.
Mirador 2: El Paraíso en Ciudad Bolívar, el contraste hecho paisaje
If there's one place where you understand the dual Bogotá, it's El Paraíso, in the Ciudad Bolívar locality. This neighborhood, born from land invasions and self-construction in the 80s, has become a world reference for social transformation and urban art. Its viewpoint isn't a single point: it's the entire mountaintop, reached via the southern Metrocable line (El Paraíso station), which since 2018 has connected residents to the TransMilenio system.
El recorrido del graffiti y la vista de 360 grados
Get off the Metrocable at the Mirador del Paraíso station and walk 200 meters to the giant mural of "La Línea de la Vida", an urban art collective that has painted entire facades. From there, the pedestrian trail climbs about 10 minutes to a viewpoint with concrete benches that the residents themselves built. The view is overwhelming: ahead, the city stretches to infinity, with the southern hills to the left and the airport to the right on clear days.
Hours and logistics: the Metrocable operates Monday to Saturday from 4:30am to 10pm, and Sundays from 5am to 10pm. The fare is paid with the TuLlave card (about $2,900 COP in 2026). The viewpoint itself has no restrictions, but authorities recommend not staying after dark. Bring water and closed-toe shoes; the path has loose stones.
Fun fact: El Paraíso was one of the first neighborhoods in Bogotá to have a community "vertical garden", and its most famous mural, "La Gaitana", pays homage to the indigenous leader. Locals offer free graffiti tours on weekends (not official, but easy to find by asking at the station).
For photographers: sunrise here is magical, but the most powerful contrast is achieved at 6pm, when the city lights turn on and the sky turns orange. Use a tripod if you want to capture the nighttime "sea of lights".
Mirador 3: Las Cruces y el atardecer sobre la carrera 10
Las Cruces is one of Bogotá's oldest neighborhoods, founded in the 30s as a working-class sector. It's perched on the eastern slope, just south of La Candelaria, and its main viewpoint is a children's playground with a metal railing that seems to float over the city. From there, you can see carrera 10, one of Bogotá's most chaotic and vital avenues, with its yellow buses and exposed-brick buildings.
El sendero desde la Egipto
The most interesting way to get there is by walking from the Egipto neighborhood, which borders Las Cruces. Climb up calle 10 to the end, where the pavement turns into stone steps. In about 30 minutes, you'll reach the viewpoint, which locals call "El Balcón". There's no official signage, so ask any resident for "el parque de la vista" and they'll guide you.
Safety and hours: this neighborhood has improved a lot in safety, but it's not an area to walk around distracted with your phone. Go during the day, preferably between 10am and 5pm. There are no bathrooms or shops nearby, so bring your own water. Sunset (5:30pm to 6:30pm) is the star moment, when the sun sets behind the western hills and the city falls into twilight with flickering lights.
Fun fact: Las Cruces was the first neighborhood in Bogotá to have a community action board, a model later replicated throughout Colombia. Additionally, its church, the Parroquia de Las Cruces, has a clock dating from 1938 that residents still wind manually.
For photographers: use a telephoto lens to compress the perspective of carrera 10 and capture the ordered chaos of the buses. On clear days, you can even see El Dorado airport on the horizon.
Mirador 4: La Candelaria alta y los techos coloniales desde la Quinta de Bolívar
No, this isn't the tourist viewpoint of the Quinta de Bolívar (which charges admission), but rather the pedestrian trail that climbs along the southern side of the estate, bordering the cloud forest. This is a little-known spot even for locals: a flat rock halfway up the slope, about 10 minutes from the main trail, offering a unique view of the colonial tiled roofs of La Candelaria and the domes of the Catedral Primada.
Acceso y recomendaciones
Access is free. Enter through the pedestrian entrance on calle 21 with carrera 4, next to the Museo de Arte Moderno. Follow the trail that climbs toward Monserrate hill, but instead of continuing to the top, turn right at the first rest stop with a railing. That's the spot. It's a solitary place, ideal for reading or meditating, but not for going alone at sunset. It's recommended to go as a couple or small group.
Fun fact: this trail is part of the old route farmers used to bring products to downtown Bogotá before the Circunvalar avenue existed. Remnants of the original cobblestone can still be seen.
For photographers: the morning light (7am to 9am) is perfect for capturing the tiles with shine and the low fog. Bring a 50mm or 85mm lens to isolate architectural details.
Mirador 5: El barrio La Macarena y su terraza comunal sobre el Planetario
La Macarena is a bohemian neighborhood known for its art galleries, but few know that on carrera 3 with calle 26 there's a public staircase that climbs to a cluster of houses with communal terraces. If the residents are in a good mood (and it's not a rainy day), they let curious visitors through to the end of the staircase, where there's an improvised viewpoint over the Planetario de Bogotá and the Parque de la Independencia. It's not an official spot, so be respectful and keep quiet.
La ruta del arte y la vista
The climb is steep but short: about 15 minutes. Along the way, you'll see murals by local artists and pastel-colored facades. The viewpoint, though small, offers a unique perspective of the international center and the eastern hills. It's perfect for a profile picture or a rest before continuing to the gallery area.
Fun fact: La Macarena was the first neighborhood in Bogotá to have an "urban renewal plan with community participation", which prevented its houses from being demolished to build towers. Today, it's cultural heritage of the city.
For photographers: the golden hour (4pm to 6pm) illuminates the Planetario and creates long shadows on the staircases. Use a 35mm lens to capture the feeling of narrowness and depth.
Consejos de seguridad y logística para todos los miradores
These places aren't formal tourist attractions, so you need to go with your wits about you. Here are my recommendations as a local who walks the city:
- Horarios: avoid arriving after 5:30pm at viewpoints without lighting (Las Cruces, La Perseverancia, La Macarena). El Paraíso has light until 10pm, but the path from the Metrocable station is dark.
- Calzado: hiking boots or sneakers with good grip. Wet stone stairs are slippery. No flip-flops.
- Qué llevar: water (at least 1 liter), sunscreen, a waterproof jacket (the weather changes in minutes), and cash to buy a drink or snack from local vendors.
- Compañía: in La Perseverancia and Las Cruces, it's better to go in a group. In El Paraíso, there's more










