Chicha is not just a drink for tourists: it is a symbol of resistance, the fermented corn beverage that accompanied the Muiscas for centuries. Banned by decree in 1948, today it resurges in clay pots in market squares, festivals and traditional chicherías of Bogotá. This route is a journey through time, to understand why Bogotanos have returned to enjoying fermented corn.
Origins
Before Bogotá became the metropolis we know today, the savanna was already full of chicherías. The Muiscas prepared chicha by chewing the corn and letting it ferment in clay containers; it was the ritual drink that accompanied ceremonies, harvests and exchanges between communities. It was not a vice, but food, medicine and social currency at the same time.
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With the arrival of the Spanish, chicha went from sacred to suspicious. It was blamed for diseases and disorders, and was even seen as a breeding ground for rebellions. During the Colonial period and much of the Republic, chicherías became the meeting point for common people, where politics was discussed and music was heard. That popular essence made them a target of repression.
Masato, although it has a different origin, is also an ancient legacy: it is made with rice, corn or fermented plantain, sometimes with a touch of panela and cinnamon. In several regions it is enjoyed as a refreshing and slightly sweet drink. Canelazo, for its part, is mestizo: a mixture of aguardiente, panela, cinnamon and lemon, served hot. It was born in the cold Andean zones as a response to páramo temperatures and became the favorite drink of Bogotá nights.
Timeline or historical milestones
Pre-Hispanic era: fermented corn as a Muisca ritual
Chicha was fundamental in Muisca life: it was offered in ceremonies, shared in mingas and used in planting and harvest rituals. Fermented corn was not considered alcohol, but a transformed food.
Colonial period and 19th century: the chichería as a popular space
Chicherías proliferated in Bogotá and in the towns of the savanna. They were spaces of coexistence where music and dance intertwined with political discussions. That freedom made the elites uncomfortable, and they began to associate chicha with disorder and poverty.
1948: the ban that stigmatized chicha
That year, under the government of Mariano Ospina Pérez, a decree was issued that prohibited the production and sale of chicha in Colombia. The official argument was sanitary, claiming that the drink was unhealthy and that chicherías encouraged disorder. In practice, however, this measure affected artisanal producers and benefited the beer industry, which already had state backing. Chicha did not disappear; it became clandestine and was consumed at home for decades.
Late 20th century: resistance and memory
The ban was gradually relaxed, but the stigma persisted. For years, admitting that one drank chicha was almost a class confession. However, traditional chicherías continued to exist in working-class neighborhoods and market squares, run by families that inherited the recipe.
21st century: the cultural rebirth
For about fifteen years, chicha has returned to its place on Bogotá tables thanks to festivals, traditional cuisine collectives and young people seeking to reconnect with their roots. Today it is served at fairs, farmers' markets and in some restaurants that elevate it to an author's drink.
Key figures or events
The chicha riots
One of the most remembered episodes is that of the chicha riots, when a crowd, outraged by the increase in the price of the drink, launched itself against a chichería called El Triunfo. The situation got out of control until the police intervened to prevent the place from being destroyed. This episode illustrates to what extent chicha was part of daily life and the popular economy of the city.
The chichera families
Beyond famous figures, the true protagonists are the families that kept the recipe alive during the ban. In squares such as La Concordia or Paloquemao, there are still stalls where chicha is prepared with yellow corn, panela and a touch of herbs. Those kitchens are the living archive of this ancestral drink.
Current state
Today, chicha is enjoyed in Bogotá without shame. In October 2026, the city presents a vibrant scene of ancestral drinks that combines market squares, festivals and traditional cuisine bars. There is no single defined route, but there are stops that repeat among locals and curious travelers.
La Concordia Market Square
It is one of the most traditional places to try chicha and masato. The atmosphere is authentic: fruit stalls, quick-stop kitchens and ladies who serve chicha in clay glasses. It is an affordable space, ideal to visit in the morning or at midday. Remember to check the hours before going, since some kitchens close early.
Paloquemao Market Square
Paloquemao is the largest and most recognized market square in Bogotá, and also one of the best places to find masato and chicha, along with natural juices and typical foods. Here, masato is usually served cold, with ice, and chicha in its most traditional version. It is a must-stop for anyone who wants to understand the Bogotá pantry in a single visit.
Festivals and fairs of ancestral drinks
Throughout the year, Bogotá hosts fairs and festivals where chicha, masato and canelazo are the protagonists. These events usually coincide with farmers' markets, traditional cuisine festivals and heritage celebrations. The best time to enjoy them is between November and February, when hot canelazo makes all the sense. Check the schedule of each event, since dates vary every year.
Traditional chicherías and restaurants
In addition to the squares, there are neighborhood chicherías and restaurants that include chicha on their menu. One example is Restaurante La Chichería, which appears in gastronomic directories with visitor reviews. As in any small business, the experience can vary: it is advisable to check recent reviews and confirm hours directly.
Traditional cuisine bars
In areas such as La Candelaria and Chapinero, bars have emerged that reinterpret canelazo and masato with more careful presentations. They are not popular chicherías, but they serve as a gateway for those who have never tried these drinks. Canelazo remains the hot drink par excellence on the city's cold nights.
How they are prepared and how they are drunk
Chicha
Traditional chicha is made with cooked, ground and fermented yellow corn. Some versions include panela, cinnamon or herbs. Its flavor is acidic, slightly sweet and full-bodied. It is served in a clay glass or totuma, at room temperature or cold. Remember: it is a corn drink, not a fruit one; if it tastes like juice, it is not chicha.
Masato
Masato is prepared with fermented rice or corn, panela and cinnamon. It is softer and sweeter than chicha, and is usually served very cold. In Bogotá, you find it in market squares and typical food stalls. It is the friendliest drink for those trying it for the first time.
Canelazo
Canelazo is a mixture of aguardiente, panela, cinnamon and lemon, served hot. Although it is not ancestral in the pre-Hispanic sense, it is a mestizo drink with centuries of Andean history. It is enjoyed on the street, in bars and at year-end celebrations. Do not underestimate it because of its sweetness: it is strong.
Best time for the route
Chicha and masato are enjoyed throughout the year, but canelazo has its season: the cold months of the savanna, between November and February, and December nights. If you visit during the rainy season, hot canelazo is the best plan. If you arrive in the dry season, cold chicha in a market square is the must-stop.
Practical tips for the route
- Bring cash: many chicherías and market stalls do not accept cards.
- Ask about the fermentation: each family has its own touch, and that can change the flavor.
- Avoid mixing chicha with beer if you are not used to it.
- Canelazo is served hot: ask them not to put too much aguardiente if you are new.
- Respect the space: market squares are places of work, not just tourism.
- Check hours and prices before going, since they can vary depending on the stall and the season.
Frequently asked questions
Is chicha legal in Bogotá?
Yes. The 1948 ban is behind us and today chicha is produced and sold legally, although many recipes remain artisanal and family-based.
Where can I try chicha near the center?
The market squares and traditional food stalls in La Candelaria and its surroundings are the most accessible option. There are also neighborhood chicherías in localities such as Los Mártires and Santa Fe.
Does masato have alcohol?
Traditional masato ferments and can have a low alcohol content. Some commercial versions are almost alcohol-free. Ask at the stall if the degree matters to you.
Is canelazo the same as aguardiente?
No, canelazo is a mixture that includes aguardiente, but it also has panela, cinnamon and lemon, served hot. It is a drink that is especially enjoyed on cold nights.
