Before the Avenida del Río: When the Sea Reached Carrera 4
If you walk today along Carrera 4 in the barrio Bolívar in Santa Marta, what you see are houses, neighborhood stores, parked motorcycles, and the constant noise of the city. But if you stop at the corner of Calle 18 and Carrera 4, right where the asphalt is most patched, and you look down, you might find something unexpected: seashells embedded in the pavement. They are not decoration or trash. They are the traces of a coastline that no longer exists.
Until the mid-20th century, the sea reached what is now Carrera 4. Yes, you read that right. Where buses and mototaxis now pass, waves once broke. The barrio Bolívar, today a popular and densely populated area, was originally a strip of beach and mangrove that stretched from the hill to the mouth of the Manzanares River. Local fishermen, mostly Afro-descendants and mestizos, buried their chinchorros (fishing nets) in the wet sand and went out to fish in wooden cayucos. There were no walls, no boardwalks, no avenues. Just the straight line where the Caribbean kissed the firm land.
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The change began in the 1960s, with the construction of the Avenida del Río and the retaining wall that split the neighborhood in two. The government of the time, seeking to control flooding and expand the city southward, decided to reclaim land from the sea. They filled the mangroves with rubble and dirt, diverted streams, and built a concrete wall that forever separated the inhabitants of Bolívar from their source of life. Today, when it rains heavily, saltwater still seeps through the cracks of some houses, as if the sea refuses to leave completely.
As of May 2026, the barrio Bolívar is a labyrinth of narrow streets, the smell of fried food, and loud music. But if you know where to look, the traces of that rupture — that break between the neighborhood and the sea — are still visible. This article is a guide to walking with different eyes, to find what the cement has not been able to erase.
Testimony of Doña Lucía: "We Buried the Chinchorro Here and from There We Went Fishing"
Doña Lucía Márquez is 78 years old and lives on Calle 20 with Carrera 4, in a house with a yellow facade that she painted herself thirty years ago. Sitting in a plastic rocking chair, with a glass of panela water in her hand, she tells what life was like when the barrio Bolívar was beach.
"I arrived here in '58, when this was all bush and sand. My father had a cayuco and he tied it up where Don Toño's store is today. Right there, where they now sell arepas, he buried the chinchorro. He washed it with seawater and folded it carefully, because if not, it would rot. From there we went fishing, sometimes all the way to Isla de Salamanca. There was no electricity, but the full moon shone brighter than any light bulb."
Doña Lucía remembers that the smell of salt and mangrove was constant. "When the tide came in, the water reached the door of the house. We children played on the shore, catching crabs and shells. My mother cooked fresh fish on a wood fire. Everything was simpler, but more alive."
She says the retaining wall, built between 1965 and 1968, was a hard blow. "They did it without warning. One day machines arrived and started dumping stone and dirt. They told us it was so we wouldn't flood, but what they did was take the sea away from us. Since then, the neighborhood changed. People stopped fishing, the mangroves dried up, and more families started arriving from other places. Now it's all cement."
Despite everything, Doña Lucía does not want to leave. "My roots are here. Sometimes, when it's quiet in the early morning, I still think I hear the sound of the waves. It's as if the sea hasn't completely left, it just hid under the asphalt."
Photographs from 1960 vs. 2025: The Changing Coastline
One of the best ways to understand the transformation of the barrio Bolívar is to compare before and after images. The Historical Archive of Santa Marta (located in the Casa de la Aduana, in the Historic Center) preserves several aerial photographs from 1960 showing a radically different coastline. In those photos, the beach stretched uninterrupted from Cerro de San Martín to the mouth of the Manzanares River. The barrio Bolívar appears as a handful of wooden and palm houses, surrounded by mangroves and saltwater channels.
In contrast, in 2025, the Agustín Codazzi Geographic Institute (IGAC) published updated satellite images. The difference is stark: the coastline receded about 300 meters to the west, and where there were once mangroves, there are now paved streets, a soccer field, and a school. The retaining wall, visible as a white and gray line, separates the neighborhood from the Avenida del Río, a four-lane road connecting el centro with the south of the city.
If you want to do your own photographic tour, I recommend:
- Corner of Carrera 4 and Calle 18: Look on the ground for the remains of embedded shells. They are small, white, and broken, but they are there. In the 1960 photos, this exact spot was wet sand.
- In front of the Liceo Bolívar school (Calle 21 with Carrera 5): In the old images, there was a mangrove stream here where children bathed. Today it is a basketball court.
- Retaining wall, at the height of Calle 22: From here you can see the Avenida del Río and, in the background, the sea. But between the wall and the water there is a kilometer of reclaimed land. In the 1960 photos, that strip did not exist.
A curious fact: some neighbors claim that during excavations for the sewage system in 2018, workers found layers of seashells almost two meters deep. That is the physical proof that the sea was there, buried under decades of fill.
The Lost Mangroves and the Smell of Salt That Still Persists on Certain Corners
Before the barrio Bolívar was a neighborhood, it was a mangrove ecosystem. There were red mangrove, black mangrove, and white mangrove, species that grew in brackish water and served as a refuge for birds, fish, and crustaceans. The oldest inhabitants remember that the sound of crabs walking among the roots was part of the soundscape, along with the song of herons and the crash of waves.
Today, nothing visible remains of those mangroves. They were cut down and filled in to build houses and roads. However, the smell of salt persists on certain corners, especially after a heavy rain. Residents describe it as a "stirred sea" smell, a mix of saltpeter, wet earth, and some organic decomposition. It is not an unpleasant smell, but rather a reminder of what was there.
If you walk along Carrera 4 between Calles 19 and 21, especially at dusk, you will notice that the air has a different humidity. It is not the normal humidity of Santa Marta, but a denser, saltier one. The elders say it is the sea seeping through the cracks in the asphalt. The young laugh and say it is the smell of fried fish from the street vendors. But if you pay attention, especially at the corner of Don Toño's store (Calle 20 with Carrera 4), the smell intensifies. There, right where Doña Lucía buried the chinchorro, the sea never completely left.
For documentary photographers, this is a key spot. Bring a camera and capture the contrast between the gray cement and the humidity that shines on the ground. That image, though it may not seem like it, is the living memory of a lost mangrove.
The Construction of the Retaining Wall and How It Split the Neighborhood in Two
The retaining wall of the barrio Bolívar is not just a concrete structure. It is a scar. Built between 1965 and 1968 as part of the Manzanares River flood control project, the wall runs parallel to the Avenida del Río, from Calle 18 to Calle 25. It is about 4 meters high and, at the time, was seen as a modern solution to protect the city from river and sea flooding.
But for the neighborhood's inhabitants, the wall was a physical and symbolic barrier. Before its construction, the neighborhood's life revolved around the sea. Fishermen came and went along the beach, children played on the shore, women washed clothes in the mangrove streams. After the wall, all that disappeared. The neighborhood was split in two: on one side of the wall, the houses and streets; on the other side, the Avenida del Río and, beyond, the unreachable sea.
The social impact was immediate. Many families lost their livelihood because they could no longer fish. Others moved away, and those who stayed had to adapt to a life without a beach. The neighborhood became denser, more urban, and lost its coastal identity. Today, the youth of the barrio Bolívar grow up without having seen the sea from their homes, even though they live less than a kilometer from the coast.
For local historians, the wall is an object of study. On its concrete walls, scratched with graffiti and political posters, you can read the recent history of the neighborhood: the struggle for housing, cultural resistance, official neglect. If you walk along the wall, from Calle 18 to 22, you will notice that in some sections the concrete is cracked and stained with saltpeter. Those cracks are the same ones through which, according to Doña Lucía, the sea still seeps.
Local Tips
To make the most of your visit to the barrio Bolívar and understand its traces of the rupture, follow these tips from those who know the place:
- Go at sunset: The light of the setting sun highlights the details of the asphalt and the embedded shells. Also, the heat drops and you can walk more calmly. The best time is between 4:30 p.m. and 6:00 p.m.
- Bring water and closed-toe shoes: The neighborhood streets are uneven, with potholes and puddles. Comfortable sneakers are essential. Also bring a water bottle, because the heat can be intense even at sunset.
- Talk to the neighbors: Do not be afraid to ask. The inhabitants of the barrio Bolívar, especially the elderly, are proud of their history and like to share it. Doña Lucía is usually in her rocking chair on Calle 20 with Carrera 4, and Don Toño, the store owner, knows anecdotes from the 1960s. Be respectful and offer a friendly greeting.
- Look for the shells in the asphalt: The CTA of this article is not random. Walk Carrera 4 from Calle 18 to 22, bend down and look at the pavement. The shells are small, grayish-white, and embedded in the cement. They are hard to see if you go fast, but if you stop, you will find them.
- Avoid going during peak traffic hours: Between 7:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m., and between 5:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m., the neighborhood fills with motorcycles and buses. It is better to go during quieter hours to walk peacefully.
- Bring a camera or a notebook: If you are a documentary photographer, this place is a goldmine of images. If you are a historian or student, bring a notebook to write down testimonies. The neighbors speak with details you won't find in any book.
- Don't limit yourself to the wall: The retaining wall is important, but the traces are throughout the neighborhood. Explore the side streets, alleys, and stores. Every corner has a story.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is It Safe to Walk Through Barrio Bolívar?
Yes, it is safe during the day, especially in the afternoon. As in any popular neighborhood in Santa Marta, it is recommended not to flaunt valuables and to be aware of your surroundings. The neighbors are friendly and used to receiving curious visitors. Avoid walking alone after 8:00 p.m., unless you know the area well.
Where Can I See Old Photographs of the Neighborhood?
The aerial photographs from 1960 are in the Historical Archive of Santa Marta, located in the Casa de la Aduana, in the Historic Center (Calle 14 with Carrera 2). Entry is free, but you must request an appointment by calling the secretary of culture. There are also some images in the library of the Banco de la República, on Carrera 4 with Calle 16.
Is the Smell of Salt That Residents Mention Real or Just Nostalgia?
It is real, though not permanent. After rains, the humidity of the ground and the seepage of saltwater from the subsoil generate a characteristic smell of saltpeter and mangrove. Local geologists explain that the fill on which the neighborhood was built still contains marine salts and decomposing organic matter, which release that smell when moistened. It is not nostalgia, it is chemistry.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
The history of Santa Marta is intrinsically linked to its geography. Originally, the streets we see today in the barrio Bolívar were part of a vibrant coastal landscape, where the sea and beach dominated the panorama. Over time, urban expansion and economic development transformed this area, leaving behind the echoes of its marine past.
The barrio Bolívar, in particular, reflects the contrast between history and modernity. Here, the houses and neighborhood stores tell stories of generations that have grown up away from the beach, but still retain a vibrant local spirit. The collapse of the fishing industry and changes in the economy have deeply marked this transformation, leaving visible traces in the daily lives of its inhabitants.
To better understand this context, it is interesting to explore some places that have witnessed this evolution:
La Plaza de los Novios
A popular meeting point, where inhabitants gather to socialize. Insider Tip: Visit the square in the afternoon, when local musicians often give small outdoor concerts, creating a festive and authentic atmosphere.
El Mercado Público de Santa Marta
This market is the heart of local gastronomy, where you can find fresh and typical products from the region. Insider Tip: Don't miss the opportunity to try the shrimp ceviche, a dish that captures the essence of the sea that was once present in the streets of Bolívar.
What to Do
Visit Parque de los Novios
This park is a meeting point for the people of Santa Marta. It is ideal for enjoying a walk outdoors and observing the locals in their daily lives. Insider Tip: Don't miss the street vendors offering typical delights like arepas de huevo and empanadas, perfect for a snack while you stroll.
Walk Along Calle del Mar
This street is famous for its vibrant nightlife and variety of restaurants. It is a perfect place to sample local cuisine. Insider Tip: Look for restaurants that offer daily menus. They are not only more affordable, but also allow you to try typical dishes like sancocho. Additionally, some places have live music on weekends.
Where to Eat or Drink
La Cazuela de Bichos
This restaurant is known for its focus on seafood, standing out for its fresh ceviches and delicious fish dishes. Insider Tip: Ask about the dish of the day, which is usually a local specialty and will allow you to try something authentic and fresh.
Donde Chucho
An iconic spot to enjoy typical Santa Marta cuisine, especially its famous ajiaco. The decor is simple, but the flavor is what really matters here. Insider Tip: Don't forget to try their coconut lemonade; it is a perfect complement to the house dishes.
How to Get There and Transportation
To get to Carrera 4 in the barrio Bolívar in Santa Marta, you have several transportation options that will make your trip easier. Here are some recommendations:
Public Transportation
Buses and colectivos that circulate around the city are an economical option and widely used by locals. You can take a colectivo that takes you towards the center and get off at Carrera 4. Pay attention to the signs and the route, as some colectivos have different stops.
Insider Tip: Don't hesitate to ask the drivers or other passengers about the best stop for your specific destination; locals are always willing to help you.
Taxis
Taxis are a more comfortable option, especially if you are traveling in a group or with luggage. You can call a taxi company or use mobile apps like Beat or Domicilios, which are popular in the city. Make sure to agree on the price before getting in, especially if you are not using an app.
Insider Tip: It is always advisable to have the name of your destination and a nearby reference handy to make the trip easier and avoid confusion.
Bicycle
If you prefer a more eco-friendly and healthy means of transport, you can rent a bicycle. Santa Marta has been improving its infrastructure for cyclists and there are several companies that offer rentals. Pedaling through the city will allow you to enjoy the sea breeze and admire the local architecture.
Insider Tip: Make sure to bring sunscreen and water, especially if you decide to cover long distances. The coastal area has a hot climate, so staying hydrated is key.
Remember that, although Carrera 4 is not a beach today, the journey will take you to explore a neighborhood that has its own vibrant history and culture. Enjoy your visit!