Introduction: Barrio Bolívar and the street that changed its face
In Santa Marta, Barrio Bolívar is not the typical tourist destination that appears in travel guides. It is a middle-class residential area, with colorful houses, noisy corners, and a strong neighborhood life. But one street has become famous for an unexpected reason: Calle 17, between Carreras 5 and 7. Until two years ago, this stretch was known for something no one wanted to mention out loud: retail drug sales. Neighbors avoided walking there after 7 pm. Cars would double-park, make quick transactions, and leave. It was a hot spot that the police knew about but could never fully dismantle.
Today, walking down Calle 17 is a different story. The walls that once served as hiding spots for dealers are now covered in enormous murals, with colors ranging from deep blue to neon yellow. Figures of jaguars, Afro-Colombian women, mangroves, and stylized letters tell a story of resistance. And the most surprising part: the drug sales didn't disappear because of raids, but because the neighbors themselves, with the support of urban artists, decided to paint over the fear. In May 2026, this project remains a living example of how art can transform a space, without the need for bullets or operations.
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This article is for you, who believes that walls can speak. For the sociologist looking for real cases of urban intervention. For the street artist who wants to know how it was done. And for the curious person who wants to walk Calle 17 and see with their own eyes what happens when a community decides to take ownership of its territory.
Exact location: where Calle 17 is
Calle 17 in Barrio Bolívar runs from east to west, from Carrera 1 (near the hill) to Carrera 11 (where Avenida del Río begins). The stretch intervened by the mural project is specifically from Carrera 5 to Carrera 7. It's about three blocks, no more. But those three blocks concentrated, according to the Community Action Board of Barrio Bolívar, 60% of the drug sales points in the area.
To get your bearings: if you come from the Historic Center, take Carrera 5 north, pass Avenida Libertador, and when you reach Calle 17, turn left. You will see the murals as soon as you turn the corner. If you come from El Rodadero, go up Carrera 1 to Calle 17 and walk west. On Google Maps, you can search for "Calle 17, Barrio Bolívar, Santa Marta" and it will take you straight there. There is no sign saying "mural zone", but you will recognize them by the colors.
Before the art: what Calle 17 was like
To understand the impact of the graffiti, you need to know what was there before. I spoke with Doña María, a 68-year-old neighbor who has lived on Calle 17 since 1995. She told me that for years, the corner of Carrera 6 and Calle 17 was a sales point for bazuco and marijuana. "Motorcycles would arrive at 10 pm, honk, roll down the window, hand over the money, and leave. You couldn't even look out because they would mistake you," she says. The Community Action Board reported, in 2023, at least 12 formal complaints about drug sales on that stretch. The police would conduct raids, but the sellers would move two blocks away and set up shop again.
The problem wasn't just the drugs. It was the feeling of insecurity. Neighbors stopped putting chairs out on the sidewalk. Children didn't play in the street. The facades were neglected, with gang graffiti marking territory. There was an atmosphere of abandonment that, paradoxically, attracted more buyers. "It was as if the street was saying: there is no law here," a former board member who asked not to be named told me.
The artistic intervention: how the project was born
In early 2024, a group of urban artists from Santa Marta, led by the collective "Pintura Viva", approached the Community Action Board with a proposal: to intervene the walls of Calle 17 with large-format murals. The idea was not just to decorate, but to change the dynamics of the space. "We knew that if the street became a beautiful place, people would start to take care of it," explained Carlos "Mono" López, one of the project coordinators.
The Board managed the permits with the Mayor's Office of Santa Marta. Paint was donated by a local hardware store, and neighbors were called upon to help with logistics. The intervention was carried out in three phases, between March and June 2024. Twelve artists participated, including locals and guests from Bogotá and Medellín. They used aerosol, acrylic, and stencil techniques. The themes: the biodiversity of the Sierra Nevada, Afro-Caribbean culture, and peaceful resistance. There are no violent images or explicit messages against drugs. "We didn't want to wage a visual war, but to fill with life what was dead," says Mono.
The most notable works include a 4-meter-tall jaguar on the facade of an abandoned house, a woman with a turban representing the river goddess, and a series of three-dimensional letters forming the word "Bolívar" on the corner of Carrera 6. Each mural has a small plaque with the artist's name and year, although some have already worn down from the sun.
The real effect: did the graffiti scare off the drugs?
The question everyone asks is whether the murals actually reduced drug sales. The answer is not magical, but the data speaks. According to the Community Action Board, complaints about drug sales on Calle 17 dropped by 70% between July 2024 and May 2026. The neighborhood police confirmed that operations in the area decreased, not because they stopped doing them, but because the sales points moved to other streets in the neighborhood (like Calle 19 or Carrera 8). On Calle 17, the sellers simply stopped operating.
Why? The neighbors have their theory: "Before, the street was dark, no one was watching. Now, with the murals, people stop to take photos, children play, the ladies bring out their chairs. There's no privacy to sell," Don Pedro, owner of a corner store, told me. Additionally, the artists and neighbors themselves organized informal neighborhood watch rounds during the first few months. "It's not that we are vigilantes, it's that now the street is ours," he adds.
It is important to clarify: the drugs did not disappear from Barrio Bolívar. It would be naive to think so. But on Calle 17, the change is tangible. In May 2026, at 7 pm, there are children playing soccer in the street, couples walking, and tourists taking photos of the murals. Something that was unthinkable two years ago.
What to do on Calle 17 today
If you visit Calle 17, don't expect an open-air museum with hours and a ticket booth. It is a living neighborhood. The best time to go is between 5 and 7 pm, when the sunset light hits the murals directly and the neighbors are out on the street. You can:
- Take a photo tour: Each mural has details that look better up close. The jaguar on the abandoned house has eyes that seem to follow you. The woman with the turban has hummingbird feathers in her hair. Bring a camera or a phone with good resolution.
- Talk to the neighbors: Doña María, Don Pedro, and other residents are often at their doorways. If you tell them you came to see the murals, they will proudly tell you the story. Some might even offer you water or coffee.
- Have a cold drink at the corner store: At Carrera 6 and Calle 17, there is a store that sells natural juices, sodas, and empanadas. It is the neighborhood meeting point. If you are hungry, order a beef empanada with chili (costs about $2,500 COP).
- Buy local art: Occasionally, the artists from the Pintura Viva collective organize sales of prints and postcards of the murals. Ask at Don Pedro's store if they know of any dates.
Where to eat and drink nearby
Calle 17 doesn't have gourmet restaurants, but the local offerings are authentic. A few blocks away, on Carrera 5 with Calle 18, is "El Sabor de Bolívar", a restaurant serving typical Santa Marta food, open Monday to Saturday, 11 am to 8 pm. Main courses range from $15,000 COP (bandeja paisa) to $25,000 COP (fried fish with patacón). The coconut rice is a must-try.
If you prefer something quicker, on Carrera 7 with Calle 17, there is a stall selling arepas de huevo, open from 4 pm to 9 pm. These are arepas filled with egg, shredded beef, and cheese. Each costs $4,000 COP. On weekends, the stall is packed with neighbors and curious visitors.
For drinks, Don Pedro's store sells cold beer ($3,500 COP per bottle) and natural juices ($2,000 COP). There is no bar with music or a terrace, but the street itself is the place to sit on a plastic chair and watch life go by.
How to get to Calle 17
Getting there is easy. From the Historic Center, you can take a city bus that says "Bolívar" or "Cristo Rey". Routes 5 and 8 pass by Carrera 5, one block from Calle 17. The fare is $2,600 COP (reference prices from May 2026). Get off at the stop on Carrera 5 and Calle 17.
If you come by taxi from El Rodadero, the trip costs between $15,000 and $20,000 COP, depending on traffic. Ask to be dropped off at the "corner of Don Pedro's store", although the taxi driver probably won't know the name. Better to say: "at Calle 17 with Carrera 6, Barrio Bolívar".
By private car, you can park on Carrera 5 or Carrera 7, but avoid leaving your car on Calle 17 itself because it is narrow and the neighbors have their own chairs and games. There is a public parking lot on Carrera 4 with Calle 18, a five-minute walk away, which charges $3,000 COP per hour.
Local tips for enjoying the experience
- Visit during the week: On weekends, Calle 17 fills up with families and it can be hard to take photos without people. Tuesday and Wednesday afternoons are the quietest days.
- Bring cash: At Don Pedro's store and the food stalls, they don't accept cards. The nearest ATMs are on Carrera 5 with Calle 20 (Banco de Bogotá) or on Carrera 7 with Calle 16 (Davivienda).
- Respect the houses: The murals are on private facades. Do not touch the walls or try to climb to take photos from strange angles. The neighbors are friendly, but they don't like their space being invaded.
- Ask about the "mural tour": The Pintura Viva collective offers guided tours on the first Saturday of every month, at 4 pm. The meeting point is Don Pedro's store. The tour is free, but they accept donations to buy paint.
- Don't let your guard down: Although Calle 17 is safer than before, Barrio Bolívar is still a working-class area. Keep your phone in your pocket, don't flash expensive jewelry, and avoid walking alone after 9 pm.
Fun fact: the mural that couldn't be painted
During the intervention, the artists wanted to paint a mural on the facade of a house that, according to neighbors, was the main drug sales point. The owner of the house refused. He said he didn't want "trouble". The Community Action Board tried to mediate, but the man stood firm. Finally, the artists painted the jaguar on the abandoned house next door, which was owned by the municipality. The owner of the house that refused, I was told, moved away six months later. Today, that house is rented to a young family who did allow a small mural to be painted on the door. It's not the biggest, but it has a message: "Peace is built".
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to visit Calle 17 today?
Yes, especially between 5 and 7 pm, when there is more activity from neighbors and visitors. Drug sales have decreased significantly and the neighbors are watchful. That said, as in any working-class neighborhood in Santa Marta, avoid displaying valuables and don't stay after 9 pm if you don't know the area well.
Is there a cost to see the murals?
No, the murals are on public spaces and private facades, so you can see them for free whenever you want. If you want to take the guided tour by the Pintura Viva collective, it is free, although they accept voluntary donations to buy paint and maintain the murals.
Can I paint a mural on Calle 17 if I am an artist?
Not without permission. The current murals were authorized by the Community Action Board and the homeowners. If you want to paint, you must contact the Pintura Viva collective through their Instagram page (we won't give the exact username to avoid links, but search for them as "Pintura Viva Santa Marta") or speak with the Board at their office on Carrera 4 with Calle 18. Painting graffiti without permission could cause problems with the neighbors, who now care for the walls as if they were their own.
Is there any special event on Calle 17?
Yes, every year in June, the "Festival de Murales Bolívar" is held, with live music, dance performances, and new artistic interventions. The 2026 edition is scheduled for Saturday, June 13, from 2 pm to 8 pm. It is free and open to the public. If you plan to visit Santa Marta on that date, don't miss it.