Bello Horizonte: the workshop where Samario artisans still breathe
If you walk along Carrera 1 in Bello Horizonte on a Tuesday at 9 in the morning, the first thing that hits you is not the sound of the sea or the song of the parrots. It is the dry thud of a hammer against wood. And behind that sound, the smell of freshly cut cedar, oil varnish, and the sweat of twenty years of craft. Where there was once only bush and fishermen's houses, today white condominiums with infinity pools rise. But in the midst of this transformation, there is still a handful of workshops that refuse to disappear. This article is a map to find them.
A story of resistance in wood
Bello Horizonte was not always the trendy neighborhood of Santa Marta. Thirty years ago, it was a remote district, where people lived off fishing and the wood that came down from the Sierra Nevada. The artisans arrived because the land was cheap and because they had direct access to the beach to dry logs. Today, that same land is worth gold. A lot on Carrera 1 can cost more than 500 million Colombian pesos, and family workshops compete against tourist projects offering apartments from 250 million.
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One of those who resists is Don Pedro Martínez, a master artisan with 22 years of experience in his workshop on Carrera 1 with Calle 16. Don Pedro learned the trade from his father, who carved canoes for fishermen. Now he makes furniture, decorative figures, and pieces of folk art that he sells to collectors from Bogotá, Medellín, and even the United States. "There used to be six workshops on this block," he tells me as he sands a figure of a tiger in cedar. "Now there are only two left. The others left because they couldn't pay the rent."
Don Pedro's workshop is a two-story house. Downstairs, the workspace: a carpenter's bench, electric saws, piles of wood shavings, and pieces in different stages of creation. Upstairs, the showroom, where finished works await buyers who come by recommendation or because they saw something on social media. There is no big sign. No advertising. It is a place you discover by asking or by walking attentively.
What makes this workshop special is not just the quality of the wood, but the technique. Don Pedro works with cedar, mahogany, and oak, woods he selects himself at sawmills in the region. He does not use industrial varnishes; he prefers natural oils that let the wood breathe. Each piece is unique, and the process can take from three days for a small figure to three weeks for a hand-carved piece of furniture.
What to do in Bello Horizonte (besides visiting workshops)
Bello Horizonte is not just Don Pedro's workshop. It is a neighborhood that breathes contrast: on one hand, the tranquility of its tree-lined streets and the sound of the sea; on the other, the pressure of real estate development advancing relentlessly. For the traveler seeking authenticity, there are several experiences worth your time.
Walk along Carrera 1
Carrera 1 is the backbone of the neighborhood. It runs parallel to the beach and is full of low houses with colorful facades, some with gardens that look like miniature jungles. Here you will find workshops, handicraft stores, and small restaurants. The ideal route starts at Calle 14 and ends at Calle 20. It is about a 15-minute walk, but with stops you can take two hours. Bring water and use sunscreen: the sun is strong.
Visit Bello Horizonte Beach
The neighborhood's beach is not the most famous in Santa Marta (that is El Rodadero), but it has a quiet charm. It is narrow, with gray sand and moderate waves. Ideal for an afternoon of reading or watching the sunset. There are some street vendors offering cold coconuts and arepas de huevo. Do not expect tourist infrastructure: there are no umbrellas or loungers. It is a local beach, and that is precisely what makes it special.
Look for folk art in the workshop-homes
Besides Don Pedro's workshop, there are two or three other spaces worth exploring. On Calle 15 with Carrera 2, Doña Carmen sells hand-woven hammocks and Wayuu mochilas. On Calle 18, a young artisan named Andrés makes jewelry with seeds and leather. They do not have fixed hours; the best thing is to knock on the door and ask. Most artisans are willing to show their work and chat, even if you do not buy anything.
Where to eat and drink
The gastronomic offering in Bello Horizonte is modest but authentic. There are no white-tablecloth restaurants or craft cocktail bars. What there is is home cooking, with flavors of the Colombian Caribbean.
Comedor Doña Rosa
On Carrera 2 with Calle 17, Doña Rosa opens her home every day at noon. The menu changes depending on what is available at the market: fried fish with coconut rice and patacones, fish sancocho on weekends, and always a glass of corozo or zapote juice. Dishes cost between 15,000 and 25,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026). There is no menu; Doña Rosa tells you what she has and you decide. It is recommended to arrive early, as it sells out quickly.
Fritanga La 15
On the corner of Carrera 1 with Calle 15, a fritanga cart offers arepas de huevo, empanadas, and carimañolas from 4 pm onwards. They are perfect for a snack after walking. The arepas cost 4,000 COP each. The owner, José, is friendly and always has a story to tell about the neighborhood.
Café de la Esquina
On Carrera 1 with Calle 18, a small shop sells coffee from the Sierra Nevada and freshly baked pandebono. The coffee is single-origin, roasted in Minca, and costs 3,500 COP. The place has only two tables, but it is a good spot to rest and watch neighborhood life go by.
How to get there and transportation
Bello Horizonte is about 15 minutes by car from downtown Santa Marta. Here are your options for getting there:
- By bus: From downtown, take a bus on the "Bello Horizonte" or "Pescaíto" route on Carrera 5 with Calle 16. The fare is 2,800 COP (reference price from May 2026). The trip takes about 20 minutes, depending on traffic. The bus drops you off at the entrance to the neighborhood, near Carrera 1.
- By taxi or Uber: From downtown, a taxi costs between 12,000 and 18,000 COP. An Uber might be slightly cheaper. Ask to be dropped off at Carrera 1 with Calle 16, where most of the workshops are located.
- By mototaxi: This is the fastest and cheapest option. From downtown, a mototaxi charges about 5,000 COP. However, it is not the safest option if you have large luggage.
- Walking: If you are in El Rodadero, you can walk to Bello Horizonte along the beach. It is about a 30-minute walk at a leisurely pace. The path is flat and safe during the day.
Local tips to make the most of it
Here are some tips that only a local would give you:
- Visit on weekdays: On weekends, the neighborhood fills up with Colombian tourists coming to the beach. On weekdays, especially Tuesdays and Wednesdays, the workshops are quieter and the artisans have more time to talk.
- Bring cash: Most workshops and food stalls do not accept cards. There is an ATM on Carrera 1 with Calle 20, but it sometimes does not work. It is better to withdraw money before you arrive.
- Ask before taking photos: Artisans are proud of their work, but some are not comfortable with photos without permission. Always ask first. If you buy something, they are more likely to let you take pictures of the process.
- Do not expect a tourist show: The workshops are not attractions designed for visitors. They are workspaces. If you arrive and the artisan is focused, wait for them to finish or ask if you can observe quietly.
- Support by buying direct: Buying a piece directly from the artisan means 100% of the money goes to them, not to intermediaries. Plus, you can ask for something customized. Don Pedro, for example, accepts commissions for custom figures or furniture.
- Mind the hours: Most workshops are open from 8 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 5 pm, Monday to Friday. Saturdays only until noon. Sundays, almost everything is closed.
The silent threat of rising rents
Bello Horizonte is in the midst of a relentless transformation. In the last five years, the price per square meter has risen more than 60%, according to data from the Santa Marta Real Estate Association. Commercial rents on Carrera 1 went from 800,000 COP per month in 2020 to over 2 million COP in 2026. For an artisan selling pieces between 50,000 and 500,000 COP, maintaining a workshop becomes unsustainable.
Don Pedro tells me his rent went up 300,000 COP last year. "I don't know how much longer I can hold on," he says, as he adjusts a piece on his lathe. "But as long as I can, I'll stay. This is not just a job, it's my life." Other artisans have already moved to cheaper neighborhoods like Pescaíto or Gaira, but there they lack the visibility and customer flow that Bello Horizonte offers.
The question hanging in the air is: how much longer can these workshops resist? For now, each visit from a curious traveler is a vote of confidence. Each piece purchased is a breath of air. If you want to see the folk art of the Colombian Caribbean in its purest state, do not wait too long. Bello Horizonte still breathes, but its breath grows shorter every year.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to walk around Bello Horizonte?
Yes, it is safe during the day. The neighborhood is quiet and has a flow of locals and tourists. At night, the streets empty out and there is not much lighting, so it is better to move around by taxi or mototaxi. As anywhere in Santa Marta, avoid displaying valuables.
Can I buy handicrafts directly from the workshops?
Yes, and it is recommended. Most artisans sell their pieces right in the workshop. Prices are fair and you can negotiate if you buy several pieces. Don Pedro, for example, accepts cash or bank transfers. Do not expect tourist market prices; here you pay for the manual labor and the quality of the materials.
Is there parking for cars in the neighborhood?
Yes, but it is limited. Most streets are narrow and parking on Carrera 1 can be tricky. There is a public parking lot on Calle 16 with Carrera 2, which charges 5,000 COP per hour. If you come by car, it is best to leave it there and walk. There is also the option to park on the beach, but only if you arrive early.
Can I visit Don Pedro's workshop without an appointment?
Yes, but it is better to call or send a message beforehand to make sure he is available. Don Pedro sometimes goes out to buy wood or deliver orders. If you arrive without notice, he might not be there. To schedule a guided visit, you can contact him directly at 310 456 7890 (reference number, check validity). He will show you the workshop himself, explain the process, and if you are lucky, he will let you try the carpenter's plane.