Origins
To understand why in Santa Marta you find some of the best kibbeh in Colombia, you have to go back to the end of the 19th century. While the country was experiencing civil wars and the coastal economy was beginning to open up to foreign trade, a wave of migrants from the Ottoman Empire — today Lebanon, Syria, and Palestine — arrived on the coasts of the Colombian Caribbean. Fleeing mandatory military service, religious persecution, and hunger, these travelers disembarked in Barranquilla, Cartagena, and, of course, Santa Marta.
What many do not know is that Santa Marta, being the oldest port in Colombia, was one of the first entry points for these families. Unlike Barranquilla, which grew as a commercial hub with large stores owned by Arabs, in Santa Marta the migration was quieter but equally profound. Surnames like Guerra, Matta, Abuchar, Chaín, and Jalil arrived. They did not come with large capitals, but with recipes written in memory and an innate ability for trade.
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At first, many dedicated themselves to the fabric, dry goods, and grocery business. But the kitchen was the true magnet. The women of these families began to prepare their dishes for the nearby communities, and little by little, the aroma of zaatar and fried kibbeh began to mix with that of patacones and fried fish in the streets of the Centro Histórico and the Public Market.
Timeline or Historical Milestones
1880-1920: The First Steps
The first Lebanese and Syrian families settle in the Centro Histórico neighborhood, near the Cathedral and the Bay. They open small clothing and imported goods stores. The cuisine remains domestic, but Arab sweets are already being sold in the squares.
1930-1950: The Birth of Restaurants
The first formal Arab food establishments appear in Santa Marta. Restaurante El Libanés (now disappeared) and Kibbeh de la Abuela (popular name, not official) mark the beginning of the fusion. Ingredients are adapted: bulgur wheat is easily obtained, but feta cheese is replaced by costeño cheese, and olive oil is mixed with local palm oil.
1970-1990: Consolidation in Centro and Los Troncos
Migration is renewed with a second wave during the Lebanese Civil War (1975-1990). New families arrive and open more specialized restaurants. The Los Troncos neighborhood becomes a gastronomic hub where arepas de huevo mix with kibbeh. The concept of "costeño kibbeh" is born: larger, juicier, with ground beef and pork, and a touch of cumin and garlic that locals adopt as their own.
2000-2020: The Caribbean-Lebanese Fusion
Young chefs of Lebanese descent begin to experiment. In restaurants like La Perla del Medio Oriente (located on Carrera 1 with Calle 14) and Beirut Caribe (in el Rodadero), dishes such as fried fish with tahini and mango sauce, or labneh with costeño cheese and pan de bono are served. Lebanese cuisine ceases to be a family secret and becomes a tourist attraction.
2026: The Present
Today, June 2026, Santa Marta has at least 15 restaurants offering Lebanese or Lebanese-Caribbean fusion cuisine. Some are in Centro, others in el Rodadero, and a few in the Pando neighborhood. Kibbeh is no longer an exotic dish: it is sold on street corners, in bakeries, and even on hotel menus.
Key Figures or Events
The Matta Family: The Pioneers of Kibbeh at the Public Market
Don Jorge Matta arrived in Santa Marta in 1925 with his wife and three children. They set up a small stall at the Mercado Público de Santa Marta (Calle 10 with Carrera 5). There they sold fried kibbeh, grape leaves, and a sesame sweet called halva. The original recipe used lamb, but since it was not easily available, they replaced it with beef and pork. That change is now the basis of costeño kibbeh. The stall closed in the 80s, but his descendants still cook at home and sell by order.
José Chaín: The Man Who Brought Tabouli to Samaria Tables
José Chaín, born in Tripoli, Lebanon, arrived in Santa Marta in 1952. He opened Restaurante Chaín on Calle 16 with Carrera 4, in front of Parque de los Novios. He was the first to serve tabouli in the city, but adapted: he used curly parsley instead of flat-leaf parsley, and added grated green mango for a sour touch that locals loved. The restaurant closed in 2005, but the Samaria tabouli recipe is still used in several places.
The Abuchar Family: Owners of the First Pita Bread Oven in the City
In 1968, the Abuchar family installed the first pita bread oven in Santa Marta, in the Los Troncos neighborhood. Before that, Arab bread was brought from Barranquilla or made at home on wood stoves. The Abuchar oven allowed any restaurant to offer fresh pita bread. Today, that oven is still operating (Calle 18 # 5-30) and supplies most of the Lebanese restaurants in the city.
Fun Fact: Fried Kibbeh and Holy Week
Few know that in Santa Marta, during Holy Week, many Lebanese families prepare a fish kibbeh (with red snapper or sierra mackerel) to respect the Catholic tradition of not eating red meat. This version, which does not exist in Lebanon, is a perfect example of how migration adapted to local customs. Today, some restaurants offer it as a temporary specialty in April.
Current Status
Today, Lebanese cuisine in Santa Marta is not a niche. It is part of the city's gastronomic DNA. Restaurants have evolved: they are no longer just fast food stalls, but places with wine lists, contemporary decor, and tasting menus. However, the heart remains the same: kibbeh, tabouli, grape leaves, and hummus, but with a Caribbean seal found nowhere else.
The problem is that many tourists pass through Santa Marta and leave without trying this fusion. They leave with the memory of ceviche and coconut rice, but miss out on costeño kibbeh or labneh with patacón. That is why I have prepared a route with three restaurants that represent the best of this heritage.
Recommended Route: 3 Must-Visit Restaurants
1. Beirut Caribe
Location: Carrera 2 # 14-30, Rodadero (facing the beach).
Signature dish: Fried fish with tahini and mango sauce. The red snapper is fried whole, bathed in a creamy tahini sauce (sesame paste), and topped with strips of green mango and cilantro. It costs around $32,000 COP (reference price as of June 2026).
Hours: Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am-9pm. It is recommended to verify hours before visiting.
Why go: It is the place where Lebanese cuisine meets the sea. The chef, of third-generation Lebanese descent, studied cooking in Barranquilla and returned to innovate. They also have a shrimp kibbeh that is insane.
2. La Perla del Medio Oriente
Location: Calle 14 # 2-45, Centro Histórico (two blocks from the Cathedral).
Signature dish: Costeño kibbeh with hogao. Here the kibbeh is served with a typical coastal hogao (stewed tomato and onion). The combination is brutal. The dish costs $18,000 COP (price subject to change, check directly).
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 12pm-8pm. Closed Sundays.
Why go: It is the most authentic place. The owning family has been at the location for 40 years. Everything is homemade, from the pita bread to the desserts. Order the coconut halva for dessert.
3. Samaria Libanesa
Location: Calle 18 # 4-30, Los Troncos neighborhood.
Signature dish: Labneh with costeño cheese and pan de bono. Yes, you read that right. They take labneh (strained yogurt) and mix it with crumbled costeño cheese, then spread it on hot pan de bono. It is the perfect fusion. The dish costs $12,000 COP (reference price as of June 2026).
Hours: Open Monday to Saturday, 7am-4pm. Sundays until 2pm.
Why go: It is a spectacular breakfast. They also sell packaged zaatar (Lebanese spice mix) to take away. Take a jar to cook at home.
The Living Legacy in New Generations of Chefs
The most beautiful thing about this story is that it did not stay in the past. Young Samarios of Lebanese descent are taking their grandmothers' recipes and giving them a contemporary twist. Mariana Chaín, great-granddaughter of José Chaín, opened a small street food spot in 2024 called Kibbeh & Co. (Calle 20 # 3-15), where she serves kibbeh in the form of a burger, with yuca bread and tamarind sauce. It is a hit among university students.
On the other hand, Carlos Matta, great-great-grandson of Don Jorge, is developing a gourmet frozen kibbeh project to sell in supermarkets. He wants costeño kibbeh to be as well-known as arepas or patacones. And honestly, with the flavor it has, I would not be surprised if he succeeds.
Lebanese cuisine in Santa Marta is not a fad. It is a tradition that reinvents itself every day, mixing bulgur wheat with plantain, tahini with coconut, and cumin with coastal garlic. It is the best-kept secret of the Pearl of America, and now that you know it, you just need to go and taste it.
So now you know: the next time you are in Santa Marta, do not just eat ceviche. Look for a costeño kibbeh, order a labneh with costeño cheese, and discover why this fusion is one of the tastiest in the Colombian Caribbean.
