The Route of Silence: Night Walks through Ciénaga Grande by Moonlight

The starting point: Why night transforms Ciénaga Grande into a sanctuary of peace

When the sun falls behind the Sierra Nevada and the Caribbean heat subsides, the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta begins to breathe differently. During the day, this immense expanse of brackish water –the largest lagoon complex in Colombia– receives boats, fishermen, and tourists. But when night falls, the mangrove reclaims its territory and the silence becomes so dense you can almost touch it. It is at that moment when the real magic begins: the biorhythm of the mangroves changes, nocturnal animals come out of hiding, and the sky reflects on the water like a mirror shattered into a thousand pieces.

The science behind this phenomenon is fascinating. Mangroves –especially the red, white, and black– perform photosynthesis during the day, but at night they reverse the process: they consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. This creates a unique environment where juvenile fish that hide among the roots during the day come out to feed, and with them, the nocturnal predators: caimans, boa constrictors, and birds like the mangrove owl or the nocturnal kingfisher. For biologists, the night is the time of greatest trophic activity in the ecosystem. For us, it is the perfect setting for a walk unlike any other in Colombia.

August 2026 has been a particularly good month for this: rainfall has been moderate, the water level is high, and clear nights allow exceptional visibility of the Milky Way. If you are reading this with the idea of experiencing intimate ecotourism away from the tourist noise of Santa Marta, this route is for you.

What to do: The complete Route of Silence experience

The starting point: Buenavista and Nueva Venecia

The Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta is not a single body of water: it is a system of 390,000 hectares that includes lagoons, channels, swamps, and mangroves connected to the Caribbean Sea. The two most famous stilt villages –Buenavista and Nueva Venecia– are the mandatory starting points for any night excursion. Both are built on wooden stilts over the water, with colorful houses floating above the mangrove. Nueva Venecia, the largest, has about 4,000 inhabitants who live from artisanal fishing and community tourism.

The experience begins at the Buenavista dock, where local fishermen offer their services as guides. This is not a formal tour with orange vests and megaphones; here things are more personal: a fisherman who knows every channel, every root, every sound of the mangrove takes you in his wooden boat or kayak through labyrinths that only he knows. Prices are as of August 2026: a 3 to 4-hour night excursion by boat with a local guide costs between 120,000 and 180,000 COP per group (up to 4 people). If you prefer kayaking, the price drops to about 80,000 COP per person, but you need previous experience because night navigation among roots is tricky.

The route: From artificial light to natural light

The tour starts just before sunset, around 5:30 in the afternoon, when the golden light tints the water orange and pink. It is the perfect moment to see fishermen collecting their nets and diurnal birds –herons, ibises, cormorants– returning to their nests. As the sun sets, the guide turns off the boat's engine and starts rowing or using a silent tug. It is at that instant when silence takes over everything.

The typical route lasts about 4 hours and includes:

• Ride through the internal channels among red mangroves where aerial roots create natural tunnels. With a red light flashlight (to avoid disturbing the fauna), you can see crabs, shrimp, and juvenile fish taking refuge among the roots.
• Stop at a caiman observation point. In the quieter areas of the lagoon complex, especially near the channels that connect with the Magdalena River, American crocodiles inhabit. Guides know the exact spots where they can be seen without putting anyone at risk. You can see their red eyes glowing in the dark when the flashlight illuminates them.
• Night sky observation. Far from the light pollution of Santa Marta and Barranquilla, the sky over Ciénaga Grande is a spectacle. On new moon nights, the Milky Way reflects on the still water, creating a mirror effect that photographers search for for years. On full moon nights, the landscape lights up with a silvery glow that allows you to see the outlines of the mangroves.
• Active listening of nocturnal fauna. The guide stops, turns everything off, and only sounds are heard: the croaking of frogs, the flapping of nocturnal birds, the splash of a jumping fish, the distant grunt of a caiman. It is an experience that connects with something primitive within us.

Sunrise in the mangrove

If you stay overnight in one of the eco-lodges in Nueva Venecia or Buenavista (there are about 10 community lodgings with prices from 50,000 COP per night), you can experience the moment few see: the transition between night and day in the mangrove. Around 5:00 in the morning, the sky begins to lighten and the first rays of sun filter through the mangrove roots. Diurnal birds wake up with a deafening chorus: kingfishers, great egrets, ospreys, and even the elusive scarlet ibis, which is relatively common in this area.

For photographers, this is the golden moment. The soft morning light creates long shadows and pastel colors on the water. If you have a camera with long exposure capability, you can capture the movement of the water while local fishermen head out in their canoes. The mist rising from the water at dawn is a spectacle that alone justifies the night walk.

Can you do it by kayak?

Yes, and in fact it is the most intimate way to experience this. Several local operators in Buenavista offer double kayaks with LED lights and life jackets. Night kayaking through the internal channels is a different experience: you are at water level, hearing every sound more clearly and feeling the breeze directly on your face. However, a basic level of physical fitness and experience paddling in calm waters is required. Guides recommend doing a daytime tour first to familiarize yourself with the terrain before venturing out at night.

Where to eat or drink: Local flavors among mangroves

The gastronomy of Ciénaga Grande is a well-kept secret that few tourists know. In the stilt villages, food is fresh, simple, and straight from the water to the table. There are no gourmet restaurants or menus in English; here you eat what the fisherman brings in.

In Nueva Venecia

• Restaurante Doña Carmen: a family dining room on stilts that serves the best shrimp rice in the region. The dish costs around 25,000 COP and comes with patacón and avocado salad. Doña Carmen only cooks when there are visitors, so it is recommended to notify in advance.
• Kiosco El Mangle: at sunset, this small kiosk becomes the meeting point for fishermen returning from their work. They serve fresh fish ceviche (15,000 COP) and corozo juice, a sour and refreshing local fruit only found in this area of the Caribbean.

In Buenavista

• Comedor Familiar La Ciénaga: this is where guides take their groups after the night excursion. They serve a fish sancocho (20,000 COP) that is famous throughout the region. The thick broth, with yucca, plantain, and cilantro, is perfect for regaining energy after hours on the water.
• Natural juice stand: at the entrance to the dock, there are several stalls selling local fruit juices: soursop, sapote, passion fruit, and the aforementioned corozo. A large juice costs between 5,000 and 8,000 COP.

If you prefer to bring your own food, you can, but consider that the idea is to support local communities. The money you spend in these small family businesses stays in the village and helps fishermen avoid having to migrate to the city in search of work.

How to get there and transportation: The secret logistics

Getting to Ciénaga Grande from Santa Marta is easier than people think, but it requires some planning. The good news is that you don't need an organized tour; you can do it on your own and support local guides directly.

Option 1: By bus (the most economical)

From the Public Market of Santa Marta (Calle 11 with Carrera 9), buses and shared vans leave for the municipality of Pueblo Viejo approximately every 30 minutes. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs around 8,000 COP. From Pueblo Viejo, you must take a mototaxi (5,000 COP) or walk about 20 minutes to the Buenavista dock, where you take boats to the stilt villages.

Option 2: By private car or taxi

If you have a car, take the road towards Simón Bolívar airport and continue along the highway that borders the swamp to Pueblo Viejo. The journey from downtown Santa Marta takes about 35 minutes. There are guarded parking lots at the Buenavista dock (about 10,000 COP per day). A taxi from Santa Marta to the dock costs between 40,000 and 60,000 COP, depending on negotiation.

Option 3: Organized tour from Santa Marta

Several ecotourism agencies in the historic center of Santa Marta offer this experience. A complete night tour (transportation, guide, dinner, and optional lodging) costs between 180,000 and 250,000 COP per person. The advantage is that they pick you up at your hotel and everything is included. The disadvantage is that you usually go in larger groups and the experience is less personal. If you are looking for the true Route of Silence, we recommend doing it on your own or with a small group.

Permits and considerations

You don't need a special permit to visit Ciénaga Grande, but it is important to register at the control post of the Regional Autonomous Corporation of Magdalena (CORPAMAG) at the Buenavista dock. Registration is free and only requires your name and ID. It is a safety measure to know who is in the area in case of emergency.

For night excursions, local guides usually ask that you arrive with at least 2 hours of natural light to complete the registration and initial tour. Additionally, wearing a life jacket is mandatory.