Forbidden Trails: The Smuggling Routes of Tayrona Park That Only Locals Know

The myth of the smuggling routes in Tayrona Park

When you arrive in Santa Marta and ask about Tayrona Park, the first thing you hear is about Cabo San Juan, Piscina Natural or Arrecifes. Postcard-perfect beaches, yes, but packed with tourists in high season. What few know, and even fewer tell, is that the park has a network of trails that do not appear on official maps, dirt and stone paths that for decades were used by smugglers to move illegal goods from the coast to the interior of the country. It is not an urban legend: it is living history. In June 2026, some of these trails are still used by locals who know every curve, every hiding spot, every shortcut that outwitted the Coast Guard in the 20th century. Here I will tell you which they are, how to get to them without getting lost, and why walking them today is a way to understand the Tayrona that is not sold in brochures.

Smuggling in the Sierra Nevada of Santa Marta is nothing new. Since colonial times, hidden bays and cliffs were used to unload liquor, fabrics, weapons, and more recently, cigarettes and appliances. The Kogi, Wiwa, and Arhuaco indigenous people, ancestral owners of these lands, also have their own stories of exchanges that did not go through customs. But it was between 1950 and 1990 that the routes became professional: fast boats arrived at night at beaches like Brava or Chengue, and from there, mules and men carried the merchandise along trails that climbed up to towns like Minca or the road to Cerro Kennedy. Today, these same trails are an open secret among local guides and backpackers looking for something more than a hammock by the sea.

The route from Bahía Concha to Playa Brava: history and hidden landscapes

Of all the smuggling routes that survive within Tayrona Park, the one connecting Bahía Concha with Playa Brava is the most emblematic. It is not a trail marked on park maps, but local fishermen know it as "the smuggling trail." It starts in the southern sector of Bahía Concha, where there is an almost invisible entrance among the bushes, about 200 meters from the police checkpoint. From there, it is approximately 4 kilometers of ups and downs through jungle terrain, with breathtaking views: limestone cliffs, small coves of black sand, and, if you are lucky, sightings of howler monkeys and toucans.

The interesting thing about this route is that it has nothing to do with the touristy Tayrona. There are no restaurants, no bathrooms, no signage. It is pure nature, but also pure history. Local guides say that in the 1970s, smugglers used this same path to haul up cases of Scotch whisky and American cigarettes that arrived by boat at Playa Brava. From there, mules carried the load up to the road connecting to the village of Guachaca, where it was distributed to Santa Marta and Barranquilla. Today, walking this trail is like taking a trip back in time: you can still find remains of makeshift camps, rusty cans, and, in some spots, axe marks on trees that served as night-time orientation.

To do this route, you need to leave early, before 6 in the morning. The sun on the coast is relentless after 10 am, and the shade of the dry tropical forest only covers some sections. Bring at least 2 liters of water per person, sunscreen, repellent, and a salty snack. There are no resupply points until you reach Playa Brava, and even there, you will only find a couple of rustic shops run by local families selling water and sodas at fair prices (a 500 ml bottle costs about 3,000 COP). The full hike, without rushing, takes between 2 and 3 hours, depending on your fitness level and how much you stop to take photos.

A curious fact that few know: at the highest point of the route, about 200 meters above sea level, there is a small cave that smugglers used as a temporary hideout. Local guides call it "the refrigerator" because inside the temperature drops up to 10 degrees less than outside. It is not easy to find, but if you ask in Bahía Concha for don Carlos, a 68-year-old fisherman who lives in the area, he can take you. Don Carlos walked these trails when he was young, carrying boxes of rum, and today he offers guided tours for 50,000 COP per person. It is one of the most authentic experiences you can have in Santa Marta.

Testimonies from local guides: how these trails were used in the 20th century

To understand these routes, you have to listen to those who lived them. On a hot afternoon in June 2026, I sat down to talk with Luis Enrique, a 54-year-old guide who works in the Calabazo sector, the main entrance to Tayrona on the southern side. Luis Enrique started walking the park when he was 12, helping his father, who was a muleteer. "My dad brought merchandise from Playa Brava to the road. Sometimes it was boxes of Marlboro cigarettes, sometimes it was radios. We never asked, we just walked at night so no one would see us," he told me, pointing to a trail that disappears among the trees.

According to Luis Enrique, the system was simple but effective: the boats arrived between 11 pm and 2 am, when the tide was low and the new moon offered total darkness. The smugglers used gas lanterns covered with rags to avoid drawing attention. On the beach, muleteers with mules or, on the steeper sections, men carrying loads of up to 50 kilos, were waiting for them. The merchandise was taken up trails like the one from Bahía Concha to Playa Brava, or along the route from Chengue to the La Sirena farm, a path that is now almost erased by vegetation. "There was a network of people: those who watched from the hills, those who brought food, those who bribed the guards. Everything was organized," he adds.

Another key testimony is that of María del Socorro, a 70-year-old woman who lives in the village of Guachaca. She remembers that when she was a child, her house served as a collection point. "The men arrived sweaty, with bundles on their backs. My mom gave them panela water and arepas. I never knew what they brought, but once I saw a box that said 'Johnnie Walker' in gold letters. That was luxury back then," she laughs. María del Socorro now tells these stories to tourists who pass by her house, which has been converted into a small restaurant where she serves fried fish with patacón for 15,000 COP.

These testimonies are not only fascinating but also reveal a Tayrona that goes beyond the photo in the hammock. Walking these trails is stepping in the footprints of a parallel economy that shaped the region. And although smuggling has decreased today (partly due to park control and partly due to the legalization of certain products), the routes are still there, waiting for those who dare to step off the official map.

Secret logistics: permits, schedules and what to bring to avoid crowds

If you want to explore these smuggling routes, forget the main entrance at El Zaino. That is the gate for tourists heading to Cabo San Juan. To access the hidden trails, you have two options: enter through Bahía Concha or the Calabazo sector. Both are alternative entrances to Tayrona Park, less crowded and with more relaxed control. At Bahía Concha, access is free (you only pay the park entrance fee, which costs 54,000 COP for Colombians and 68,000 COP for foreigners in 2026). The checkpoint is on the road, but once you cross the beach, you can veer off into the bushes without anyone stopping you. Note: there are no park rangers watching every meter, so the responsibility is yours.

The ideal times are between 5:30 am and 9:00 am. At that hour, the park is almost empty, animals are active, and the heat is not yet intense. Plus, it is easier to find local guides offering informal tours on the beach. If you arrive after 10 am, you will run into the first groups of tourists entering through El Zaino and spreading out on the main beaches, but they rarely venture onto the secondary trails. The key is to move quickly and quietly, just like the smugglers did.

What to bring? Here is a practical list based on my experience and what the guides recommend:

• Water: minimum 2 liters per person. There are no safe natural water sources on the route.
• Food: fruits, nuts, salty snacks. Avoid things that melt in the heat.
• Footwear: trekking shoes with thick soles. Sandals are a bad idea; there are sharp rocks and snakes.
• Protection: sunscreen (SPF 50+), mosquito repellent with DEET, and a wide-brimmed hat.
• Clothing: lightweight long pants (protect from branches and bugs) and a long-sleeved shirt. Bring a raincoat in case it rains.
• Extra gear: headlamp (in case you get delayed), emergency whistle, and a map downloaded on your phone in offline mode (signal is almost non-existent).
• Cash: in small bills (2,000, 5,000, 10,000 COP). The shops at Playa Brava do not accept cards, and the nearest ATM is at the park entrance.

A tip that few know: if you want to avoid crowds entirely, plan your visit on weekdays, Monday through Thursday. On weekends, especially in high season (December, January, Easter Week, and July), the park fills up, and the alternative trails also receive more visitors. Also, check the weather: the rainy season runs from May to November, and the trails become slippery and dangerous. If you can, come between December and March, when the sun is more constant and the paths are dry.

For those who want a guided experience, I recommend contacting the Association of Local Guides of Bahía Concha. They do not have a website, but you can find them on the beach by asking for don Carlos or "el profe" Alberto. They charge between 40,000 and 60,000 COP per person for a half-day tour, and they know every nook and cranny. Plus, you support the local economy and avoid getting into trouble with the police, as they have informal agreements with the authorities to transit these areas.

Impact of ecotourism and conservation of these historic routes

Tourism in Tayrona Park has grown like foam in the last decade. In 2025, the park received more than 450,000 visitors, according to data from Parques Nacionales. That is good for the economy, but it also puts pressure on ecosystems and communities. The smuggling routes, not being officially recognized, run the risk of degradation from unregulated use: litter, soil erosion, wildlife disturbance. However, there is also an opportunity: if managed well, these trails can become a model of responsible ecotourism that benefits locals and protects history.

Some guides, like Luis Enrique, are already working on this. "We clean the trail every week, pick up the trash left by tourists, and plant trees in the most eroded parts. We do not want it to be lost, but we also do not want it to become like Cabo San Juan, full of vendors and music at full volume," he explains. They are also training young people from the community to learn how to guide and tell the smuggling stories, ensuring the knowledge is not lost with the death of the old muleteers.

For travelers, this means a responsibility: if you decide to walk these routes, do so with respect. Do not leave trash, do not take rocks or plants, do not make campfires (the dry forest is highly flammable), and do not stray from the marked trail to avoid damaging vegetation. It is also important not to share the exact coordinates on social media, as massification can ruin the place. Better to invite other responsible travelers, but with the warning that it is a secret that must be protected.

The future of these routes depends on a difficult balance: keeping them alive as historical and natural heritage, without tourism devouring them. For now, they are a gift for those seeking something more than a selfie on the beach. If you decide to walk them, you will understand why locals call them "forbidden trails": not because they are off-limits, but because they hold a story that the official Tayrona prefers not to tell.

Frequently asked questions

Is it legal to walk the smuggling routes of Tayrona Park?

Yes, as long as you enter through the official park entrances (Bahía Concha or Calabazo) and pay the corresponding entrance fee. The trails are not signposted nor are they authorized routes by Parques Nacionales, but there is no explicit prohibition against using them. However, as they are unregulated areas, you walk at your own risk. There are no park rangers, emergency signage, or rescue services. If you have an accident, the responsibility is yours. That is why it is recommended to go with a local guide who knows the terrain.

How much does a guided tour of these routes cost?

Local guides offering tours of the smuggling trails charge between 40,000 and 60,000 COP per person (approximately 10 to 15 USD in June 2026), depending on the duration and distance. This price does not include the park entrance fee (54,000 COP for Colombians, 68,000 COP for foreigners) or food. Some guides also offer full-day tours that include lunch at Playa Brava for about 100,000 COP per person. Always negotiate the price before starting and make sure the guide is affiliated with a local association to avoid scams.

How dangerous are these routes for an inexperienced tourist?

It depends on your physical condition and the season. The trails have steep sections, loose stones, and dense vegetation. In the rainy season (May to November), the mud can make them slippery, and there is a risk of landslides. There are also snakes (like the fer-de-lance) and spiders, although attacks are rare if you do not disturb them. If you have no experience hiking in tropical jungle, it is better to go with a guide. Bring enough water, wear appropriate footwear, and do not stray from the path. With caution, it is a safe and memorable adventure.

What to do

The Sierra Nevada

Explore the trails that lead to the Sierra Nevada, where biodiversity is impressive. From the park, you can start hikes towards the town of Minca, known for its coffee production.

Insider Tip: Bring a water bottle and sunscreen, and do not forget to stop at one of the coffee farms for an authentic tasting.

Sendero de los Pinos

This trail offers a spectacular view of the sea and the jungle. It is less traveled than others, allowing you to enjoy a more peaceful experience. Make sure to bring your camera, as the views are stunning.

Insider Tip: Visit at sunrise or sunset to capture the magic of the light in nature. It is a good time to see birds and other animals.

Playa Brava

Away from the crowds, Playa Brava is ideal if you are looking for a place to relax. The path is a bit more complicated, but the adventure is worth it. The beach is perfect for those who enjoy tranquility and natural beauty.

Insider Tip: Bring a picnic and enjoy the beach without the pressure of the street vendors that are usually on the more crowded beaches.

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Where to eat or drink

Restaurante Donde Chucho

This place is famous for its fried fish and typical side dishes. Locals prefer it for its relaxed atmosphere and customer service.

Insider Tip: Ask for the "sancocho de pescado," a dish that is not on the menu, but that many consider the house specialty.

El Bistro de la Playa

Located near the beach, this bistro offers a mix of local and international cuisine. Ideal for enjoying a good dinner after a day of exploration.

Insider Tip: Do not miss their shrimp ceviche; it is fresh and comes with a special sauce that only they prepare.

La Casa de las Empanadas

A simple place but loved by locals, famous for its beef and chicken empanadas. Perfect for a quick lunch.

Insider Tip: Accompany your empanadas with a soursop juice; the combination is irresistible.

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How to get there and transportation

To get to Tayrona Park from Santa Marta, there are various transportation options that fit different budgets and preferences. Here are some of the most used by locals.

Bus from Santa Marta

Buses heading to Tayrona Park leave frequently from the Santa Marta transport terminal. This trip takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes. It is an economical and quite convenient option.

Insider Tip: If you want to avoid crowds, try to take the bus early in the morning. Also, make sure to have cash on hand, as they often do not accept cards.

Taxi or private transport service

Taking a taxi or a private transport service can be a more comfortable option, especially if you are traveling in a group. This service is more expensive, but it drops you off directly at the park entrance.

Insider Tip: Negotiate the fare before getting into the taxi or use transport apps like Uber or Didi, which usually have more competitive prices.

Mototaxi

On some stretches, mototaxis are a popular option to get to the park. This type of transport is fast and can be a fun experience for those looking for a bit of adrenaline.

Insider Tip: Make sure to wear a helmet and always ask the price before starting the ride to avoid surprises at the end.

Remember that once inside the park, the best way to explore the trails is on foot. This way you can fully enjoy the natural beauty and the secrets this magical place holds.

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Local tips

Playa Brava

Insider Tip: Often overlooked by tourists, Playa Brava offers a quieter and less commercial atmosphere than other beaches in the park. Bring snacks and water, as you will not find services here. The sunset here is an experience you cannot miss.

Trail to La Pescadería

Insider Tip: This trail connects to La Pescadería beach, a perfect place to enjoy artisanal fishing. Bring a fishing rod if you are interested, and do not forget to enjoy the local gastronomy at the small huts that serve fresh fish.

Visit to the Kogi indigenous people

Insider Tip: If you have the opportunity, consider an encounter with the Kogi indigenous community. Learn about their culture and worldview. Always remember to ask for permission and be respectful of their traditions.

Explore the fauna and flora

Insider Tip: Tayrona Park is a paradise for nature lovers. Bring binoculars for bird watching and a camera to capture the diversity of flora. The most recommended times to explore are at sunrise or sunset, when animal activity is most intense.

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