What is the Blacks and Whites Carnival and Why It's Unique in Pasto
The Blacks and Whites Carnival of Pasto is not just a party; it's an act of collective memory that every January paints the streets of this southern Colombian city with the white of talcum powder and the black of cosmetic paste. Declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2009, its origins date back to colonial times, when enslaved Africans and indigenous communities blended their traditions in a cry of resistance and joy. Today, it's a dialogue between past and present, where the game of painting faces symbolizes equality and the fusion of cultures that defines Pasto.
Guide to Dates, Parades and Traditions
The carnival is celebrated from January 2nd to 7th, with events ranging from intimate to monumental. Three parades are essential:
- Family Castañeda Parade (January 4th): A humorous procession that recreates the arrival of a peasant family to Pasto in 1928, with floats, costumes, and a dose of satire that invites laughter at everyday life.
- Day of the Blacks (January 5th): The streets fill with people painted black, remembering the day of rest that enslaved people had. It's a day of free play, where neighbors and visitors smear black cosmetic paste in an act of camaraderie that erases differences.
- Day of the Whites (January 6th): The white of talcum powder covers everything, symbolizing purity and renewal. The Grand Parade of Floats is the heart: enormous sculptures made of paper and plaster, created by local artisans, parade along Avenida de los Estudiantes in a spectacle of color and creativity that lasts for hours.
Don't miss the Precarnival (December), with events like the Carnavalito for children, which plants the seed of tradition in new generations.
How to Get Around Pasto During the Carnival: Transportation, Safety and Recommendations
Pasto, nestled in the mountains of Nariño, transforms during the carnival. Public transportation (buses and taxis) can get crowded; consider walking between key events in the center, where parades are concentrated. For longer distances, taxis are safe and economical (use apps or ask at your accommodation). Regarding safety, keep your belongings close in crowds and follow instructions from the Tourism Police, who patrol main areas. The weather is cool (10-18°C), so bring layers and a raincoat for occasional rains.
Where to Eat, Stay and Plan Your Days
To taste Pasto, try the roasted cuy (guinea pig) at street stalls in the center, or Nariñense tamales in markets like San Andrés. For accommodation, book months in advance: economical options include hostels near the University of Nariño (from $50,000 COP per night), while hotels in the center offer comfort at moderate prices ($150,000-300,000 COP). Plan your days flexibly: mornings are ideal for visiting museums like the Carnival Museum, and afternoons for immersing yourself in parades.
Local Tips and Cultural Insights
Bring clothes you don't mind staining: playing with paint is an essential part. To save money, buy talcum powder and cosmetic paste at local shops (not in tourist areas) and join the free comparsas (parade groups) that emerge in neighborhoods like San Felipe. Remember that the carnival is more than a party: it's a ritual where Pastusos honor their indigenous and African heritage. Talk to the float artisans; their stories will show you how paper and imagination can defy time. Finally, don't wash off the paint immediately: leave it as a testimony that, for a few days, you were part of something bigger.
Share this guide with those traveling to Pasto for the Carnival to help them plan their visit.
