Introduction: The Arepa as the Neighborhood's Identity
If you arrive in Cartagena and someone tells you that all arepas are the same, don't believe them. In San Diego, the most authentic neighborhood between the Historic Center and Getsemaní, the arepa is something else. It's not the melted cheese arepa you find at a fast-food chain, nor the fine beef-filled arepa from an expensive restaurant. Here, the arepa is street food, eaten standing on a corner, with hands full of suero costeño and a mouth dripping with fried egg. As of May 2026, these stalls remain the best-kept secret of those who live here, while tourists pay 25,000 COP for an arepa in the Center. I've been eating at these three stalls for years, and I promise you that for less than 10,000 COP, you'll fill up like just another local.
San Diego is not just the Iglesia de San Diego or the cobblestone streets full of Instagram-worthy photos. It's a neighborhood where the smell of roasted corn mixes with the sea breeze. Here, arepas aren't a trendy dish; they're part of the routine. The butcher, the market lady, the building security guard: everyone has their favorite stall. And if you want to eat like them, you have to wake up early or arrive just before lunch, because these stalls wait for no one.
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What to Do: Beyond the Arepa
Before you dive into the stalls, understand the neighborhood. San Diego is small, walkable, and full of life. The main streets are Calle de la Media Luna, Calle del Sargento Mayor, and Calle de la Iglesia. But the arepas aren't on the main streets; they're on the corners, in the small squares, and in the courtyards of houses. Don't expect a written menu or a laminated card. Here, you order with your eyes and pay in cash.
If you arrive hungry, I recommend a three-stop route. Start early, around 7 a.m., when the sun isn't scorching yet and the arepas are freshly made. Bring coins of 1,000 and 2,000 COP, because the prices are exact and no one has change for large bills. And above all, bring a real appetite, because one arepa de huevo here will set you up for the rest of the day.
Where to Eat: The 3 Arepa Stalls in San Diego
Arepas La Lola (Calle de la Media Luna with Cra 10)
This is the oldest stall in the neighborhood. Doña Lola has been selling arepas for 30 years, from 6 a.m. to 12 p.m., or until the dough runs out. Her specialty is the arepa de huevo with suero costeño. The dough is thick, the egg is fried inside the arepa (not separately), and the suero is homemade, thick, and tangy. The price in May 2026 is 4,500 COP. If you arrive after 10 a.m., there probably won't be any left. The secret: ask for the arepa "bien frita" (well-fried), so it's crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. There are no tables; everything is eaten standing on the corner. Doña Lola doesn't speak English, but gestures and a smile are enough.
Don Toño's Stall (Corner of Iglesia de San Diego)
Don Toño is the king of the stuffed arepa. His stall is on the corner of the Iglesia de San Diego, right where Calle del Sargento Mayor ends. He's open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday to Saturday. His star dish is the arepa de chicharrón with queso costeño. He fries the chicharrón himself every morning and shreds it just before filling the arepa. The queso costeño is salty and melts with the heat of the dough. Price: 6,000 COP. The best part is that Don Toño has a small plastic stool where you can sit to eat, although sometimes there's a line. Don't leave without trying the "suero de la casa," which is more liquid and has a bit of a kick. Don Toño always asks: "¿Con todo?" (With everything?), and yes, the answer is yes.
Arepas de la Plaza (Plaza de San Diego, in front of the market)
This isn't a single stall, but a group of three ladies who take turns on different days. They are located in Plaza de San Diego, right where the fruit market is. They're open from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., but on weekends they might stretch until 3 p.m. The specialty here is the arepa de huevo with shredded beef. The beef is stewed with tomato, onion, and cumin, and placed on top of the fried egg inside the arepa. Price: 7,000 COP. It's the most expensive of the three, but also the most filling. The ladies are friendly and let you customize: no onion, no suero, extra meat. However, there's no bathroom nearby, so come prepared.
How to Get There and Transportation
San Diego is a 10-minute walk from the Historic Center (Plaza de los Coches) and 15 minutes from Getsemaní. If you're coming from Bocagrande, take a bus that says "Centro" or "Castillo" and get off at Avenida del Centenario. From there, walk towards the Iglesia de San Diego (the one with the white tower). You don't need a taxi or Uber; everything is walkable. If you come by car, forget it: the streets are narrow and there's no parking. Better to leave the car in the Center and walk.
For backpackers and digital nomads: if you're in a hostel in Getsemaní, you can get there in 10 minutes via Calle de la Media Luna. If you're in a hotel in the Center, cross Calle de la Factoría and go straight. The neighborhood is safe during the day, but as in all of Cartagena, watch your belongings and don't take out your phone on the street unless necessary.
Local Tips
- Bring cash: None of these stalls accept cards or Nequi. Coins of 1,000 and bills of 2,000 and 5,000 COP are ideal.
- Early bird gets the arepa: The best arepas sell out before noon. If you arrive at 11 a.m., only cheese ones are likely left.
- Ask for no suero if you're lactose intolerant: Suero costeño is fermented milk, not the same as cream. If you're not used to it, ask for the arepa "sucia" (just with egg or meat).
- Don't ask for ketchup: It's not used here. The accompaniments are suero or homemade hot sauce. Don Toño's hot sauce is devilishly spicy, so go easy.
- Eat standing up: It's part of the experience. If you sit on a bench, you eat slower and enjoy the moment. But don't expect a table with a tablecloth.
- Pair it with a coconut lemonade: In the same Plaza de San Diego, there's a man selling coconut lemonade in bags. It costs 2,000 COP and is the perfect complement to a fried arepa.
Price/Quality Comparison vs. Downtown Restaurants
In the Historic Center, an arepa at a restaurant like "La Mulata" or "El Bistro" costs between 18,000 and 25,000 COP. The presentation is nice, the dough is thinner, and the filling is gourmet (shrimp, lobster, blue cheese). But if what you're looking for is authentic flavor and to fill up for 7,000 COP, the stalls of San Diego win hands down. Doña Lola's dough is thicker, Don Toño's egg is fresher, and the meat from the ladies in the square tastes more like home. Plus, in the Center's restaurants, you pay for the air conditioning and the cloth napkin. Here, you pay for the corn, the egg, and the cook's skill.
My recommendation: if you have the budget and want a complete gastronomic experience, eat an arepa in the Center for the photo and another in San Diego for the soul. But if you only have 10,000 COP and are truly hungry, come to San Diego. You won't regret it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What time do the arepa stalls in San Diego open?
Most open between 6 a.m. and 7 a.m., and close between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m., or when the dough runs out. If you want the best selection, arrive before 9 a.m. Some stalls rest on Sundays, so check before you go.
Are these stalls safe for tourists?
Yes, San Diego is a safe neighborhood during the day. The stalls are on busy corners with local and tourist traffic. As anywhere in Cartagena, don't flash valuables and keep your backpack closed. The ladies at the stalls are friendly and used to serving foreigners.
Can I pay with card or bank transfer?
No. All the stalls mentioned only accept cash. Bring small bills and coins. If you only have large bills, ask beforehand if they have change. In Plaza de San Diego, there's sometimes a candy vendor who can change money, but it's not guaranteed.
Which arepa do you recommend if it's my first time eating arepa de huevo?
Start with Doña Lola's arepa de huevo. It's the most classic and the easiest to eat. The dough isn't too thick and the egg is well-fried. If you like it, then try Don Toño's with chicharrón or the one from the plaza with meat. Don't order the arepa de huevo with everything on your first visit because it can be overwhelming.
Are there vegetarian or gluten-free options?
Arepas are naturally gluten-free because they are made from corn. For vegetarians, the arepa de huevo is the best option, although the egg is not vegan. If you are vegan, ask for the cheese arepa (without egg), but queso costeño is made from cow's milk. There is no vegan option at these stalls. If you need something vegan, it's better to go to a restaurant in the Center.
Tomorrow Friday at 7 a.m., I'll be waiting for you on the corner of the Iglesia de San Diego for an arepa tasting. It's free, just bring your appetite and a desire to try the best street food in Cartagena. See you there, neighbor.