The first time I saw the alley
I arrived in Cartagena on a Tuesday in May 2026 with 200,000 pesos in my pocket and the idea of staying a week. Finding accommodation for less than 50,000 pesos in San Diego seemed like mission impossible, until a coconut candy vendor in Plaza de la Trinidad told me: "Go to Doña Rosa's, in the alley that smells like jasmine." I walked three blocks, turned a corner where a shaggy dog guarded the entrance, and there it was: a narrow passage of peeling colonial facades, with colorful hammocks hung between wooden balconies, Christmas lights on all year round, and the smell of fried fish coming from an open door. I paid 30,000 pesos for that night. I ended up staying two weeks.
That alley has no name on Google Maps. It doesn't appear in travel guides or travel blogs. It's a secret that locals from Cartagena have known for decades. And it works like this: Doña Rosa, a 68-year-old woman who has lived in San Diego since 1980, rents out the hammocks she hangs between the walls of her house and her neighbor's. No online reservations, no reception, no air conditioning. Just a hammock, a ceiling fan that sounds like an old airplane, and the certainty that you will sleep the way people slept here before boutique hotels arrived.
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What is the hammock alley
It is not a hostel or a hotel. It is a residential passage about 15 meters long, located between Calle de la Sierpe and Calle del Guerrero, in the heart of San Diego. The hammocks — about 12 in total — are hung from iron hooks embedded in the walls of the colonial houses. Each hammock has an individual mosquito net and a thin pillow. The Christmas lights — which Doña Rosa changes every December but never turns off — create an atmosphere that tourists call "magical" and locals call "normal, that's how it is here."
Doña Rosa inherited the business from her mother, who started renting hammocks in the 1980s to help sailors arriving at the port who had nowhere to sleep. "Before, it was all hoarse men and the smell of rum," she told me as she served me filtered water in a plastic cup. "Now backpackers come from everywhere, Germans, Australians, even one who came from Japan and stayed a month."
The alley has no official name. Neighbors call it "Doña Rosa's passage." On Google reviews — which exist because some guests wrote them without her permission — it appears as "Alojamiento Doña Rosa" or "Hamacas San Diego." But if you ask in Plaza de la Trinidad for "the hammock alley," any street vendor will be able to tell you.
What to do in San Diego while sleeping in a hammock
Sleeping in a hammock is not for everyone. If you are someone who needs an orthopedic mattress and absolute silence, this is not for you. But if you want to experience Cartagena from the inside, this is the best observation post. San Diego is the most authentic neighborhood in the Historic Center, less gentrified than Getsemaní, quieter than El Centro. Here's what you can do without spending money.
Plaza de la Trinidad
It's a five-minute walk away. At night, it fills up with vendors selling cocktails in bags, street musicians, and young people sitting on the church steps. You don't need to buy anything. Sit on the edge of the fountain, listen to the bullerengue played by the guys with drums, and watch the locals dance without shame. On weekends, there is a handicraft market that is not expensive compared to the shops in El Centro.
Cerro de la Popa
From San Diego you can walk to the base of the hill in 20 minutes. The climb is steep and the sun is strong, but the view from the convent is worth every drop of sweat. The entrance fee is 10,000 pesos (reference prices from May 2026). Bring water, because up there a bottle costs twice as much. If you go during Holy Week, there are processions that climb up singing.
The walls of San Diego
The stretch of wall that borders the neighborhood is less crowded than the one in El Centro. You can go up for free via the stairs behind the Hotel Santa Teresa. Bring a beer bought at the corner store — it costs 3,000 pesos, not 8,000 like in the bars — and sit down to watch the sunset over the bay. Locals go there to exercise at sunset, so don't be surprised if a man in shorts jogs by while you watch the sun go down.
Bazurto Market (if you dare)
It's a 15-minute bus ride from San Diego. It is not a tourist place. It is noisy, dirty, chaotic, and absolutely fascinating. Here you will find fruits you have never seen in your life, fresh fish that is still moving, and the best corozo juice for 2,000 pesos. Ask for the stall of Señora Elvia, who sells freshly fried arepas de huevo. Don't bring valuables, go with cash in small bills, and don't take out your phone on the street.
Where to eat and drink near the alley
Doña Rosa does not include food, but she will lend you the kitchen if you buy the ingredients. Most guests end up eating on the street. Here are my recommendations, all less than a 10-minute walk away.
La Cocina de Socorro
Calle de la Sierpe # 10-23. A small place with red plastic tables. The daily menu costs 12,000 pesos: soup, seco (rice, meat, salad, patacón), and juice. The coconut rice is the best in the neighborhood. Open Monday to Saturday, 11am to 4pm. They do not accept cards.
The Corner Arepa Stand
At the intersection of Calle del Guerrero and Calle de la Sierpe. A plump lady in a white apron sells arepas con huevo, arepas de chicharrón, and empanadas from 6pm until the dough runs out. The arepa con huevo costs 3,500 pesos. Bring cash because she doesn't give change for 50,000 peso bills.
Don Miguel's Store
Half a block before the alley. It sells cold beer for 3,000 pesos, water for 2,000, and packs of cookies. It's not a bar, it's a neighborhood store with a white refrigerator and a man who watches TV while he charges. You can buy and sit on the sidewalk to drink, as the neighbors do.
Friday Fish Soup
This is not a restaurant, it's a tradition. On Fridays at midnight, Doña Rosa prepares a giant pot of fish soup with coconut milk, green plantain, and yucca. She invites everyone sleeping in the alley. She doesn't charge, but if you want to leave a tip, she accepts it without fuss. The soup is served in plastic plates and eaten sitting on the patio floor. It's the best moment of the week.
How to get to the hammock alley
Getting there is easy if you know where to look. The alley has no exact address because it doesn't appear on digital maps. I'll explain step by step.
From Rafael Núñez Airport
Take a taxi or an Uber to Plaza de la Trinidad. The trip costs between 15,000 and 20,000 pesos (May 2026). Tell the driver to drop you off at the corner of Calle de la Sierpe and Calle del Guerrero. From there, walk north on Calle de la Sierpe for about 50 meters. You will see a narrow passage on the left, between a green house and a yellow house. That's it. If you see a fat brown dog sleeping at the entrance, you are in the right place.
From the Historic Center
Walk towards San Diego along Calle de la Factoría until you reach Plaza de la Trinidad. From the square, take Calle de la Sierpe towards Cerro de la Popa. The alley is two blocks away, on the left side. Ask for "Doña Rosa's hammock passage." Any neighbor will point you there.
By public transport
The buses that go to San Diego run along Avenida Santander. Get off at the Torre del Reloj stop and walk 10 minutes north. I don't recommend buses for tourists because it's easy to get lost. Better to walk: San Diego is small and everything is within a 20-minute walk.
How to book and what to expect
Doña Rosa doesn't have internet. She doesn't use WhatsApp, doesn't have a website, and doesn't appear on Booking or Airbnb. To book, you have to call by phone. You can get the number by asking at Don Miguel's store or in Plaza de la Trinidad. If you don't speak Spanish, ask someone to help you call. She only speaks Spanish, but she is patient with foreigners who try to communicate.
The reservation is confirmed when she says "listo, te espero" (okay, I'll wait for you). She doesn't ask for a deposit. If you don't show up, she simply assumes you changed your plans. Bring cash because she doesn't accept transfers or cards. Payment is daily: 30,000 pesos per night, exact amount. She doesn't haggle. If you try to haggle, she says "well, look elsewhere" and she's right.
What the hammock includes
- Hammock made of hand-woven cotton, with individual mosquito net.
- Thin pillow (bring your own if you have a sensitive neck).
- Shared bathroom with cold water shower and toilet. The water is drinkable but bring bath soap.
- Free filtered water from a dispenser in the patio.
- Ceiling fan that works from 6pm to 6am. During the day, the heat is intense.
- Security: the neighborhood dog, a mutt named Chato, sleeps at the entrance and barks if an unknown person approaches. He doesn't bite, but he is intimidating.
- Does not include: towel, soap, toilet paper, or breakfast. Bring your own things.
What to bring
- Cash in small bills (10,000, 20,000).
- Quick-dry towel.
- Mosquito repellent (the mosquito net helps, but it's not foolproof).
- Earplugs (the neighbor's rooster crows at 4am).
- Headlamp (the bathroom is at the back of the patio and there is no light at night).
- Light jacket or shirt for the night (the fan can make it cool).
Local tips for surviving in a hammock
Sleeping in a hammock has its technique. If you've never done it, the first few nights will be uncomfortable. Here are tips I learned after 14 nights hanging.
- Sit first, lie down later. Don't throw yourself back into the hammock because you might flip over. Sit in the center, then lie down diagonally. The diagonal position is key: your body stays straight, not hunched.
- Use the pillow under your knees. If you put the pillow under your head, your neck will hurt. Place it behind your knees to relieve lower back pressure.
- The fan is your enemy and your friend. Point the fan towards your feet, not your face. This prevents colds and allows better air circulation.
- Don't hang valuables on the hammock. Keep everything in your backpack and put the backpack under the hammock, not hanging. Pickpockets are not common in San Diego, but better safe than sorry.
- The bathroom is busy early. Between 6am and 7am there is a line. Get up before or after. Doña Rosa puts a bucket of water for the toilet if the power goes out, which happens often.
- Greet Chato. The dog is the key to the alley. If you ignore him, he growls. If you give him a cookie, he licks your hand and lets you pass without a problem.
- Don't wear perfume or cologne. It attracts mosquitoes and besides, Doña Rosa says "that stinks up the place." She uses mint bath water, which is more natural.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to sleep in a hammock in San Diego?
Yes, relatively. San Diego is a quiet neighborhood compared to other areas of Cartagena. The alley is on a residential street with neighbors who know each other. Chato, the dog, guards the entrance. Thefts are not common, but don't leave valuables in sight. Doña Rosa will store backpacks in a locked room if you ask. As anywhere in Cartagena, use common sense: don't walk alone after 11pm on dark streets and don't take out your phone on the street.
Is there noise at night?
Yes. The alley is not soundproof. You can hear the neighbors watching TV, the neighbor's rooster, the neighborhood dogs, and on weekends the music from Plaza de la Trinidad reaches here. If you are sensitive to noise, bring earplugs. Most guests get used to it after the second night. The Friday fish soup also generates noise, but that's the good kind.
Can I stay more than one night?
Yes, Doña Rosa prefers guests who stay several days. If you tell her you are staying a week, she will reserve the same hammock for you and not rent it to anyone else. Payment is still daily. There is no discount for long stays, but if you stay more than five nights, she usually offers you a coffee in the morning for free. Don't expect luxury, but consistency.
Is there internet?
No, not in the alley. Doña Rosa doesn't have wifi. If you need internet, you can go to Plaza de la Trinidad, where there is free government signal (slow but works for messages) or to a nearby café. Café del Mar on the wall has wifi but requires you to buy something. Better to buy a local Claro or Tigo chip for 10,000 pesos and use your data.
What if I arrive and there are no hammocks available?
Doña Rosa only has 12 hammocks. In high season (December, January, Holy Week, July) they fill up quickly. If you arrive and there is no space, she will recommend other budget accommodations in San Diego. Ask her about Hostal San Diego, which is two blocks away, or Casa de las Hamacas in Getsemaní, which is also cheap. But always call first to confirm availability.
Can I bring someone to the alley?
Only if they are a registered guest. Doña Rosa does not allow external visitors after 8pm. She also does not accept couples who want to use the hammock for other activities. "This is for sleeping," she says with a look that brooks no argument. If you bring someone without warning, she will ask you to leave the next day.
Why it's worth it
Sleeping in the hammock alley is not comfortable. The bathroom is shared, the rooster crows at 4am, and the fan sounds like an outboard motor. But none of those discomforts matter when you wake up at 6am, see the sun filtering through the colorful hammocks, hear Doña Rosa singing as she sweeps the patio, and smell the coffee she is preparing for the early risers. That can't be paid for with a credit card. It is paid for with 30,000 pesos in cash and the willingness to experience Cartagena as it was lived before.
If you arrive on a Friday, Doña Rosa will invite you to the midnight fish soup. If you arrive on a Tuesday, she will lend you her radio to listen to vallenato. If you arrive on a Sunday, she will wake you up to go to mass with her at the Iglesia de la Trinidad. You can say no, but you will miss the best experience of the trip.
The alley has no website, no TripAdvisor reviews, no stars. It has a hammock, a fat dog, and a lady who makes soup on Fridays. If that seems enough to you, welcome to San Diego.
Historical or contextual introduction
The Hammock Alley is a space that reflects the essence of San Diego, a neighborhood that has witnessed the transformation of Cartagena over the years. Originally, this area was inhabited by fishermen and port workers, and over time it has become a meeting place for travelers and locals. What was once an area of humble homes has now been revitalized by the arrival of tourists and entrepreneurs, without losing its authenticity.
The culture of Cartagena is felt in every corner of the Hammock Alley, where hammocks are hung between colonial houses and the sounds of daily life mix with laughter and music. Sleeping here is not only an economical experience, but also a way to connect with local life. This place, in addition to offering affordable accommodation, provides the opportunity to interact with residents and learn their stories.
If you decide to stay in this alley, consider these tips to make the most of your stay:
Interact with the locals
Talk to the residents of the neighborhood. Many of them have fascinating stories about the history of San Diego and can recommend little-known places worth visiting.
Try street food
Don't miss trying the arepas de huevo or patacones sold in the surrounding area. They are delicious and will allow you to experience the local gastronomy without spending much.