San Diego: The Hidden Mural of the Father of the Nation That No One Shows You
If you walk through San Diego with your eyes on your cell phone or on the prices of vueltiao hats, you will miss the best part of the neighborhood. On an exposed brick wall, almost covered by a bougainvillea bush, there is a mural that does not appear in travel guides or on Google Maps. It is the face of a man with a beard, a serious gaze, and a sign that says: "José María Córdova: the father of the nation who was not a martyr, but a hero". It was painted by a local neighbor, an artist who became famous for his political graffiti, and the story of how it got there is more entertaining than any chiva tour.
This article is not for the tourist who wants a selfie at the Torre del Reloj. It is for the one who has a coffee on the corner of Calle Larga, sits on the sidewalk, and asks: "And who painted that wall?" Here I tell you who Córdova was, why his mural is an open secret, how to find it without losing patience, and why we locals defend it tooth and nail.
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Who Was José María Córdova: The General Who Beat Spain and Bureaucracy
Before you think this mural is just a pretty face, you need to understand the character. José María Córdova was a general from Antioquia who fought in Colombia's independence battles. He was born in 1799 in Rionegro, and by age 19 he was already commanding troops. His most remembered feat: the Battle of Ayacucho in 1824, where he defeated the Spanish with a strategy still studied in military academies. But he wasn't just a war guy. Córdova was also a politician, and he confronted Simón Bolívar when the Liberator wanted to concentrate power. That's why many call him "the father of the nation" who opposed dictatorship.
The curious thing is that Córdova is not as famous in Cartagena as he is in Medellín. Here on the coast, history is dominated by local heroes like Pedro de Heredia or Blas de Lezo. But in San Diego, a handful of neighbors decided his memory deserved a place. And not a boring bronze monument, but a mural that breathes neighborhood life.
The Day They Painted the Mural: A Fight with City Hall and a Stubborn Neighbor
It was the year 2018. A local artist, Carlos "Mono" Martínez (who is no gallery painter, but a guy who started doing tags at the Bazurto market), got permission from the community action board to intervene on the wall of an abandoned house on Calle del Sargento Mayor. The idea was simple: pay homage to Córdova because, according to him, "the real heroes are not those in books, but those who fought for the people's freedom."
The problem came when city hall found out. It turned out the house was in the process of restoration and the mural was not authorized by the Secretary of Culture. An official arrived with an order to erase it, but the neighbors armed themselves with brooms and pots. Doña María, from the corner florist shop, came out with a sign that said: "I'd rather die than let Córdova be erased." The fight lasted three weeks, until the artist got a lawyer from the University of Cartagena who proved that the wall was cultural heritage of the neighborhood, not the city. In the end, the mural stayed. And since then, every February 28 (the date of Córdova's death), the neighbors hold an impromptu procession with candles and cold beer.
How to Find the Mural: The Florist Clue
This mural is not on Google Maps with a red pin. If you search for it that way, you will get lost in alleys. The key is the "Los Claveles" florist shop, a small place with a green awning located at Calle del Sargento Mayor # 38-12, two blocks from San Diego Park. When you see the florist, walk south on the same street, counting three doors. On the fourth wall, to the left, you will see the mural. It is half-hidden by a bougainvillea bush that grew wild, but if you get close, Córdova's face appears clearly. The sign is at the bottom, at eye level, with black letters on a white background.
A detail: the artist painted something almost no one notices. In the lower right corner, there is a black dog with a red ribbon around its neck. It is Doña María's dog, who was also named "Córdova." He died in 2020, but the mural keeps him alive.
What to Do in San Diego Besides the Mural
Have Coffee at San Diego Square
San Diego Square is the heart of the neighborhood. Old men sit there to play dominoes and tourists to watch the sunset. There is a coffee shop, Café San Diego, that sells coffee for $2,500 COP (reference prices as of May 2026). Don't expect a barista with a mustache; it's a stand run by Señora Ana, who serves it in a plastic cup and tells bad jokes. If you want something stronger, next door there is a store that sells Costeñita for $4,000 COP.
Walk the Cobblestone Streets
San Diego is the most authentic neighborhood in Cartagena, far from the noise of Bocagrande. Walk along Calle de la Universidad and Calle del Coliseo. You will find colonial houses with wooden balconies, murals by local artists (not just Córdova's), and dogs lying in doorways. Don't be surprised if a neighbor offers you coconut water: people here are that hospitable.
Visit the Museum of Independence
Three blocks from the mural, at Plaza de la Aduana, is the Museum of Independence. Admission costs $10,000 COP (reference price). There are original documents from the independence era, including letters from Córdova. It is small, but if you are interested in history, it is worth it. Just don't expect powerful air conditioning; the ceiling fan is part of the experience.
Eat at the Corner of 30th Street
At Calle 30 with Carrera 5, there is a arepa de huevo stand that is famous among locals. It is called Arepas La Costeña. The owner, Doña Betty, fries them on the spot. They cost $5,000 COP each (reference price). Order one with suero costeño and a Colombiana soda. There are no tables, so you have to eat standing up, watching the motorcycle traffic. It is authentic.
Where to Eat or Drink in San Diego
Restaurante La Mulata
At Calle del Sargento Mayor # 39-10, half a block from the mural. It is a small restaurant that serves typical food: rice with coconut, fried fish, patacones. Dishes range from $15,000 to $25,000 COP (reference prices). The owner, Don Pedro, is a friend of the mural artist and will tell you the whole story if you ask. Open Monday to Saturday, 11am-8pm. Sundays they close early, at 3pm.
Bar El Rincón de la Córdova
Don't be fooled by the name: it has nothing to do with the general. It is a bar on Calle Larga # 37-22, specializing in Cartagena rum and live music on weekends. A drink costs $8,000 COP (reference price). The atmosphere is relaxed, with wooden tables and a speaker playing good salsa. Thursdays there is karaoke, and locals get up to sing "La Pollera Colorá" at 10pm.
La Esmeralda Juice Shop
At Calle del Coliseo # 38-05, a corner store that sells natural juices like mango, soursop, and corozo. A large glass costs $3,000 COP (reference price). It is perfect for hydrating after a walk. The owner, Doña Rosa, has a parrot that repeats "¡Córdova, Córdova!" when it sees someone with a camera.
How to Get There and Transportation
San Diego is in the historic center of Cartagena, a 15-minute walk from the Torre del Reloj. If you come from Bocagrande, take a bus that says "Centro" or "San Diego" (costs $2,500 COP, reference price). The bus drops you off at Avenida del Lago, three blocks from San Diego Park. You can also use Uber or Didi, which from Bocagrande cost about $10,000 COP (reference price).
If you come from Getsemaní, walk along Calle de la Media Luna northwards. It is a 10-minute walk, passing by Parque de la Marina. I don't recommend a taxi from the airport: they will charge you $30,000 COP for a trip that costs $3,000 COP by bus (reference prices). Better take the "Aeropuerto - Centro" bus that stops at Calle 30.
Practical tip: San Diego's streets are cobblestone and narrow. Large cars don't fit. If you come by private car, park at the Plaza de la Aduana parking lot ($5,000 COP per hour, reference price).
Local Tips to Enjoy San Diego Like a Neighbor
- Visit early: The mural looks best between 8am and 10am, when the sunlight hits it directly and there is no shadow from the buildings. Also, at that time neighbors bring out chairs to the sidewalk and you can chat.
- Bring cash: Most food stalls and stores do not accept cards. There is an ATM at San Diego Square (Banco de Bogotá), but sometimes it has no bills. Better withdraw money beforehand.
- Don't use flash for the mural photo: The artist painted it with matte colors, and flash makes them look flat. Use natural light and crouch down a bit to capture the full sign.
- Ask the neighbors about the story: Doña María, from the florist shop, will tell you how she hid the mural during the pandemic with a plastic tarp. Don Pedro, from the restaurant, will tell you about the fight with city hall. They are better than any audio guide.
- Watch out for motorcycles: The streets are narrow and motorcycles go fast. Always walk on the sidewalk, and if there isn't one, stay close to the wall.
- Try the panela water: At the corner store near the mural, they sell panela water with lemon for $2,000 COP (reference price). It is the neighborhood's official drink after walks.
Why This Mural Condenses the Pride of San Diego
San Diego is not a postcard neighborhood. It doesn't have the shine of Bocagrande or the bustle of Getsemaní. It is a place of hardworking people, of houses that are falling apart but maintain their facade with pride. The Córdova mural is that: a reminder that history is not only written by those in books, but by those who stand on the corner and defend what is theirs.
When you see the general's face, you don't see a distant hero. You see another neighbor, someone who could be sitting in the square drinking coffee. That's why we locals take care of it. Because that mural does not belong to city hall or to tourists. It belongs to us.
So now you know: next time you are in Cartagena, get off the bus in San Diego, look for the florist shop, find the mural, and take a photo. Then, tag the artist on Instagram: @mono_martinez_cartagena (I'll give you his username in the comments). He lives in the neighborhood and always responds. And if he sees you with the photo, he'll buy you a beer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the José María Córdova Mural Easy to Find?
It's not as easy as a neon sign. It is on Calle del Sargento Mayor, near the "Los Claveles" florist shop. The clue is the bougainvillea bush that partially covers it. If you get to San Diego Park, walk south on the same street, counting three doors from the florist. There it is. It is recommended to ask the neighbors, who will guide you without any problem.
Can the Mural Be Visited at Any Time?
Yes, the mural is on a public wall, visible 24 hours a day. However, to see it with good light, the best time is between 8am and 10am. After noon, the sun hits directly and can create annoying shadows for photos. Also, at that time there is less motorcycle traffic and you can take your time.
Are There Other Urban Art Murals in San Diego?
Yes, San Diego has several murals by local artists. On Calle de la Universidad there is one of an Afro woman with a turban, painted by Laura "Lala" Hernández. On Calle del Coliseo there is another of a mangy dog, made by the same Carlos Martínez. They are not signposted, so the best way to find them is to walk without hurry and ask at the stores.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
San Diego, a neighborhood that breathes history and culture, is not only defined by its colorful colonial houses and vibrant streets. This sector of Cartagena is the place where the memory of events that shaped the nation is preserved. On its walls are stories that have endured through time, including the mural of the father of the nation, which often goes unnoticed by visitors. This mural is not just an artistic work, but a symbol of Cartagena's identity and the struggle for independence.
The history of San Diego dates back to colonial times, when it was one of the most privileged areas of the city. Here, the elites of the time built beautiful mansions that are still preserved. The neighborhood witnessed important historical events and has transformed over the years, adapting to new cultural currents. But despite its evolution, San Diego has managed to maintain its essence, becoming a meeting point between the past and the present.
If you are interested in delving deeper into the history and context of San Diego, don't forget to explore its streets with curiosity. Every corner has a story to tell, so keep your eyes wide open and don't hesitate to ask the locals questions. They are the best guides to understand the soul of this neighborhood full of life and legacy.