El Cabrero: the Bohemian Lung Cartagena Kept for Itself
If you arrived in Cartagena and all you've seen are the walls, the horse-drawn carriages, and the vueltiao hat vendors in the Historic Center, you're missing half the city. Literally. On the other side of the Bahía de las Ánimas, crossing the bridge that connects Downtown with the Bocagrande peninsula, is El Cabrero. And no, it's not the fishermen's neighborhood you might imagine. It's a residential area that in recent years has become a haven for artists, digital nomads, and travelers fleeing the noise of the Zona Rosa.
What makes El Cabrero unique is its coastal village atmosphere within a city that never stops. Here, there are no lines to get into a nightclub or inflated prices at touristy cocktail bars. There's the Caribbean Sea breeze, murals covering entire facades, and a boardwalk where people sit to watch the sunset with a beer in hand, without anyone charging for the view. As of May 2026, this neighborhood remains Cartagena's best-kept secret for those seeking authenticity.
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El Cabrero gets its name from the colonial era, when it was the place where goatherds brought their animals to graze. Today, the only herds you'll see are groups of tourists with mirrorless cameras searching for the next Instagram-worthy mural. But unlike the street art in Bogotá or Medellín, the graffiti here isn't just decoration: it tells stories of resistance, Afro-Caribbean culture, and Cartagenero pride. And the best part is you can explore them all on foot without breaking a sweat, because the neighborhood is flat and distances are short.
This article is for you, young traveler who wants to go beyond the cliché. I'm going to tell you where the murals that don't appear in tourist guides are, which neighborhood café is worth it, how to get there from Downtown without spending a peso on a taxi, and why El Cabrero is the neighborhood you should consider if you're coming to work remotely. At the end, you'll get an interactive map with the 10 must-see murals. But first, let's start at the beginning.
Introduction: The Contrast with the Walled City
The Historic Center of Cartagena is beautiful, no one denies it. But it's also a theme park. The cobblestone streets, colonial balconies, and perfectly restored plazas are the setting for mass tourism that, in high season, makes it impossible to walk without bumping into a selfie stick. El Cabrero, on the other hand, is the real neighborhood. Here, people live, work, raise children, and go out for a coffee on the corner. There are no pastel-colored facades or tourist guides with hats. There are two-story houses, some run-down, others painted with murals that seem to explode with color.
The contrast is stark. While in Downtown you pay 15,000 COP for a lemonade in an air-conditioned restaurant, in El Cabrero you can get a corozo juice for 3,000 COP at a corner store. While in Downtown boutique hotels cost $200 a night, in El Cabrero you find hostels and apartments with kitchens for half that. And while in Downtown art is in museums and galleries, in El Cabrero art is on the street, within reach of anyone who looks up.
This neighborhood is also the perfect starting point to explore other areas of Cartagena. It's a 15-minute walk from Downtown, 10 minutes by bus from Bocagrande, and 20 minutes by taxi from the airport. But its main attraction is that time seems to pass more slowly here. The sea breeze, the sound of birds, and the absence of car horns make you forget you're in one of Colombia's most touristy cities.
What to Do in El Cabrero: A Walking Route Through Hidden Murals
The street art in El Cabrero is no coincidence. Since 2018, several local artist collectives have transformed the neighborhood's walls into an open canvas. Most of the murals are concentrated within a perimeter of about six blocks, so you can do a walking tour in a morning or an afternoon. Here are the exact spots and the names of the artists you should look for.
Mural 1: "La negra Tomasa" at Calle 38 with Carrera 3
This is the most photographed mural in the neighborhood. It's a portrait of an Afro-Caribbean woman with a red turban and a gaze that pierces the viewer. It was painted by Cartagena artist Jhonatan "Kafre" in 2021, as a tribute to the women who have built the city's cultural identity. The facade belongs to a private house, so respect the space and don't enter. The best angle for the photo is from the opposite corner, with the morning light.
Mural 2: "El manglar de la memoria" at Carrera 2 with Calle 40
A mural about 15 meters wide depicting the roots of a mangrove intertwined with human figures. It's the work of the La Raya collective, a group of artists from Cartagena and Barranquilla. The mural is on the facade of a community cultural center that sometimes opens its doors for exhibitions. If you're lucky, you might find the artists retouching the mural or chatting with neighbors. Ask at the store next door if there's any activity that day.
Mural 3: "El vendedor de cocadas" at Calle 39 with Carrera 4
This mural is a tribute to Cartagena's street vendors. It shows an elderly man with a basket of cocadas on his head, smiling. It was painted by Lina "Lini", a local artist specializing in portraits of everyday life. The mural is on the wall of a bakery, so take the opportunity to buy a pandebono (1,500 COP) while admiring the work.
Mural 4: "El mar interior" at Carrera 5 with Calle 38
An abstract mural playing with blue and green tones, representing the Caribbean Sea from a dreamlike perspective. It's the work of Carlos "Caco", an artist from Bogotá who moved to Cartagena five years ago. The mural is on the side of an apartment building, and it's especially beautiful at sunset, when the colors blend with the golden light.
Mural 5: "Los niños del Cabrero" at Calle 37 with Carrera 2
This is the most recent mural (2024) and shows a group of children playing soccer in the street. It was painted by the Arte Sin Paredes collective in collaboration with the neighborhood's children. If you get close, you'll see that some of the faces are those of the same children who participated in the design. It's a reminder that street art is not just decoration, but also a community tool.
Mural 6: "La brisa" at Carrera 1 with Calle 39
A mural that seems to move with the wind. It's made with curved lines and pastel colors that mimic the movement of the breeze. It's the work of María "Maca", a Cartagena artist who works with airbrushing techniques. The mural is on the wall of a hardware store, and it's a good spot for photos with the afternoon light.
In addition to these murals, there are at least 15 other smaller graffiti pieces scattered throughout the neighborhood. The best way to find them is to wander aimlessly through streets 37 to 41 and carreras 1 to 5. Bring water, sunscreen, and a camera with a good battery. The murals change from time to time, as some artists retouch or replace them, so don't be surprised if you find a new one not on this list.
El Cabrero Boardwalk: The Sunset You Can't Miss
The El Cabrero boardwalk isn't as famous as the one in Bocagrande, but it's much quieter. It stretches from Parque de El Cabrero to the Club de Pesca, bordering the Bahía de las Ánimas. It's an 800-meter pedestrian walkway with benches, trees, and a direct view of the Historic Center across the water.
The best time to go is between 4:30 and 6:00 PM, when the sun begins to set and the breeze becomes cooler. Locals come out to walk, walk their dogs, or sit on the wall to watch the sunset. If you bring a beer or a coffee, no one will say anything. It's a public and relaxed space, without pushy vendors or loud music.
- The fishermen's pier: At the end of the boardwalk, there's a wooden pier where local fishermen tie up their boats. It's a good place for photos with Downtown in the background. Sometimes, fishermen sell fresh fish, but don't expect a market; it's more informal.
- The viewpoint at Parque de El Cabrero: A small park with a gazebo and benches. From here, you have a panoramic view of the bay, and if the day is clear, you can see the Castillo de San Felipe in the distance. It's a popular spot for picnics or just sitting and reading.
If you're someone who records content for social media, the El Cabrero boardwalk is perfect for sunset timelapses or videos with the breeze. There's not as much background noise as in other tourist spots, and the light is spectacular.
Where to Eat and Drink in El Cabrero: Neighborhood Cafés and Signature Bars
El Cabrero isn't known for its culinary scene, but it has a few places worth visiting. You won't find white-tablecloth restaurants or tasting menus here. What you'll find are neighborhood cafés, bakeries, and signature bars where quality is good and prices are fair.
Corner Café: "La Tienda de Don Luis"
Address: Calle 38 #2-45. It's a neighborhood store that also serves coffee and natural juices. The coffee is from the local brand Juan Valdez, but prepared in the coastal style: with panela and cinnamon. A large black coffee costs 2,000 COP. Don Luis, the owner, is a 70-year-old man who has lived in the neighborhood his whole life and can tell you stories of what El Cabrero was like before the murals arrived. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to 8 PM.
Specialty Coffee: "Café del Cabrero"
Address: Carrera 3 #39-12. This is the only specialty coffee shop in the neighborhood, opened in 2023 by a couple from Barranquilla. They serve single-origin coffee from the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, prepared using methods like Chemex or V60. A filtered coffee costs 8,000 COP. They also have vegan and gluten-free options, like cacao brownies and corn arepas. The space is small, with about six tables, and has free Wi-Fi. It's a good place to work remotely if you don't mind street noise. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8 AM to 6 PM.
Artisan Bakery: "Pan de la Abuela"
Address: Calle 40 #2-30. A small bakery that opens early and sells pandebono, almojábanas, cassava bread, and egg arepas. Everything is freshly baked, and prices range from 1,500 to 4,000 COP per piece. They also have coffee from a clay pot and lulo juice. The place has a terrace with two tables, but most people buy to go. Open Monday to Saturday, 6 AM to 7 PM; Sundays, 7 AM to 12 PM.
Signature Bar: "La Esquina del Sabor"
Address: Carrera 4 #38-10. A small bar that opened in 2022 and has become popular among locals. They serve cocktails with Cartagena rum, like the Canelazo (rum, cinnamon, panela, and lemon) for 12,000 COP, and craft beers from the local brand Costeña Brewing. They also have street food options, like empanadas and patacones. The atmosphere is relaxed, with vallenato and salsa music at a moderate volume. Open Thursday to Sunday, 5 PM to 11 PM.
Local Fast Food: "Fritanga El Cabrero"
Address: Calle 37 #3-50. A street stall selling fritanga: chorizo, blood sausage, chicharrón, stuffed potato, and fried cassava. A combo plate costs 10,000 COP and is enough for one person. It's popular among neighborhood workers and students. There are no tables, so you order to go and sit on the boardwalk to eat. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 9 PM.
If you're looking for something more formal, you'll have to walk to Downtown or Bocagrande. But for day-to-day needs, these places cover everything: breakfast, quick lunch, coffee for work, and a sunset beer.
How to Get to El Cabrero from Downtown (Without a Taxi)
Getting to El Cabrero from the Historic Center is easy and cheap. You don't need a taxi or Uber. Here are the options:
- On foot: From the Torre del Reloj, walk north along Calle de la Moneda until you reach the Bahía de las Ánimas. Cross the pedestrian bridge next to the Hotel Santa Clara. Once on the other side, you're in El Cabrero. The walk takes about 15-20 minutes, depending on your pace. It's a pleasant walk with a sea view and constant breeze.
- By bus: From Plaza de la Aduana, take any bus that says "Bocagrande" or "Castillo." Most routes go along Avenida Santander, which borders El Cabrero. Get off at the Parque de El Cabrero stop (ask the driver to let you know). The fare is 2,300 COP (reference price as of May 2026).
- By bicycle: There are public bicycle stations in Downtown (BiciCartagena system). You can rent one for 1,000 COP per hour and get there in 10 minutes. The route is flat and safe, but watch out for potholes on some streets.
If you're coming from Bocagrande, you can walk along the boardwalk to El Cabrero in about 20 minutes. From the airport, a taxi costs between 15,000 and 20,000 COP, or you can take a bus from the Terminal de Transporte heading to Downtown and get off at Avenida Santander.
Local Tips for Enjoying El Cabrero Like a Cartagenero
Here are some tips that only those who live in the neighborhood can give you:
- Bring cash: Most stores, bakeries, and street stalls don't accept cards. There's an ATM at Carrera 3 with Calle 39, but it sometimes runs out of cash. Better to withdraw money before you come.
- Don't come during rush hour: Between 7:30 and 8:30 AM, and between 5:00 and 6:30 PM, the main streets fill up with local traffic. If you're coming by bus, be prepared to wait. Better to walk.
- The sun is intense: From 11 AM to 3 PM, the sun in Cartagena is relentless. If you're doing the mural route, do it early in the morning (before 10 AM) or late in the afternoon (after 4 PM). Bring a hat, sunscreen, and water.
- Greet the neighbors: People in El Cabrero are friendly. If you see someone sitting at their doorstep, greet them with a "good morning" or "good afternoon." They'll likely respond and might even give you a recommendation.
- Don't expect luxury: El Cabrero is a middle-class residential neighborhood. There are no five-star hotels or gourmet restaurants. If that's what you're looking for, go to Bocagrande or Downtown. You come here for authenticity, not comfort.
- The breeze is your friend: Unlike Downtown, where the heat feels suffocating, in El Cabrero the sea breeze makes the temperature more bearable. Take advantage of it by sitting on the boardwalk or walking without sweating as much.
- Don't miss the sunrise: If you're an early riser, the sunrise on the El Cabrero boardwalk is spectacular. The light is soft, there are hardly any people, and you can see the city waking up. It's a magical moment few tourists know about.
Frequently Asked Questions About El Cabrero
Is It Safe to Walk Around El Cabrero at Night?
Generally, yes. El Cabrero is a quiet residential neighborhood, but as in any area of Cartagena, you need to take precautions. Avoid dark and lonely streets after 10 PM. The boardwalk and main streets (Carrera 3 and Calle 38) usually have activity until 9 PM. If you're alone, it's best to stick to well-lit areas and not display valuables.
How Much Time Do You Need to See the Murals?
With the route I propose, you can see the 6 main murals in about 2 hours walking at a leisurely pace, including stops for photos. If you want