Introduction: When Cartagena Takes Off Its Tourist Clothes
It's 7pm in El Cabrero. The sun has already hidden behind Castillo de San Felipe, and the Caribbean breeze begins to stir among the palm trees of the boardwalk. At this hour, most tourists are dining in the Historic Center or sipping cocktails on the City Wall. But those in the know, those who have lived in this city for years, know that the real Cartagena night doesn't start with a glass of wine in an expensive restaurant. It starts with the noise of a deep fryer, the smell of fried corn, and the voice of a troubadour improvising verses about love and heartbreak.
El Cabrero is the neighborhood few visit after 6pm. And that's a shame, because when night falls, this neighborhood transforms into something not even the locals tell outsiders about. Here, there are no lines to get into a nightclub, no inflated prices for tourists, no electronic music. What there is, is neighborhood life: children playing in the street, neighbors sitting on the sidewalks, and a route of fried food, trova, and breeze that should be declared the city's intangible heritage.
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If you're reading this in May 2026, you're probably looking for something more authentic than what travel guides offer. You want to feel the night like a local does. You want to eat an arepa de huevo that changes your life, hear improvised verses that touch your soul, and end the night watching the sea lights from a viewpoint that doesn't appear on Google Maps. This article is for you.
Meeting Point: The Church Corner at 7pm
Everything starts at the corner of the Iglesia de El Cabrero, facing the Parque de El Cabrero. It's unmistakable: the white church with a tower visible from several blocks away. At 7pm, just as it starts to get dark, the neighbors bring out their plastic chairs and sit down to chat. The stray dogs lie down on the corners. And the street vendors start lighting up their carts.
This is where you meet those in the know. No reservation, no waiting list. You just arrive, greet Doña Margarita (the lady at the natural juice stand who's been there since the 80s), and wait for night to fall. The breeze starts blowing strong, and the sound of the ocean waves, just two blocks away, mixes with the vendors' shouts.
Fun fact: El Cabrero gets its name because in colonial times, goatherds (cabreros) would bring their animals to graze in this area, which was then vacant land. Today, the goats have been replaced by fried food carts, but the spirit of a working-class neighborhood remains intact.
First Stop: The Arepa de Huevo Stand with History
If there's one flavor that defines the night in El Cabrero, it's the arepa de huevo. But not just any arepa de huevo. I'm talking about the one from Don Eduardo "el Mello", a 68-year-old man who has been frying arepas for 40 years on the corner of Calle de la Media Luna and Carrera 2. His stand has no name, no sign, it's not on Instagram. But those in the know, know.
Don Eduardo inherited the recipe from his grandmother, who was from Sincelejo, the land of the best arepas de huevo in the country. The dough is hand-ground white corn, the egg yolk is free-range (larger and yellower than supermarket ones), and the secret is in the oil: he changes it every three batches so it never gets greasy. The result is an arepa that's crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, with an egg that bursts in your mouth.
Reference price (May 2026): $4,000 COP per arepa. Yes, you read that right: less than a dollar for one of the best street foods in Cartagena. Don Eduardo is open Monday to Saturday, from 6pm to 11pm, or until the dough runs out (which is usually before 10pm). If you arrive late, you'll miss out.
While you wait for your arepa, Don Eduardo tells you stories. How he learned to fry arepas when he was 12, how he survived the tourist boom without raising prices, and how a Spanish chef once offered to set up a restaurant in Madrid, but he said no because "the arepa de huevo is eaten on the street, not on a plate with a tablecloth." That's the philosophy of El Cabrero.
Second Stop: The Bar with Live Trova
After the arepa, you walk three blocks north, along Carrera 1, until you reach El Rincón del Trovador. Don't be fooled by the facade: a worn wooden door, a flickering yellow light, and a hand-written sign in chalk. Inside, there are plastic tables, wooden chairs, and a small stage where, on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, the trova happens.
Cartagena's trova is not the same as that of the Llanos or the Andes. It's a more mischievous, streetwise style, with influences from accordion music and bullerengue. The local troubadours sit on stage, pass the microphone (or sometimes just shout verses without a mic), and start improvising on themes the audience requests. Love, heartbreak, local politics, jokes about the heat in Cartagena. Anything goes.
Some regular troubadours you might find here are Jairo "el Caimán", a 70-year-old man who still has a booming voice; María "la Chiqui", a woman who broke the machismo of trova and became a legend; and Luis "el Tren", who sings so fast he sounds like a train of verses. Trova nights start around 8:30pm and can last until 1am, depending on the crowd's energy.
Hours: Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, from 8:30pm to 1am. No cover charge, but you're expected to buy something (beers from $5,000 COP, aguardiente from $8,000 COP). The atmosphere is family-friendly, but without small children, because the verses can sometimes get risqué.
Fun fact: In 2024, a group of troubadours from El Cabrero was invited to a poetry festival in Medellín. They arrived, improvised verses about the Medellín metro, and the crowd ended up giving them a standing ovation. Neighborhood trova has nothing to envy academic poetry.
Third Stop: The Improvised Viewpoint on the Boardwalk
After the trova, the breeze gets stronger and your body craves space. Two blocks from El Rincón del Trovador is the malecón de El Cabrero, a stretch of Avenida del Lago that borders the bay. It's not a touristy boardwalk like Bocagrande's: no handicraft vendors, no neon lights, no loud music. It's just the sea, the breeze, and a group of people sitting on the concrete edge, watching the city lights on the other side of the bay.
Locals call this spot "the lovers' viewpoint," but it's also the place where groups of friends come after the party. There's nothing to pay here. You just sit down, listen to the sound of the waves (which sounds louder at night), and watch how the lights of the Historic Center reflect on the water. If you're lucky, you might see a fishing boat pass by with its dim lights.
Recommendation: Bring a beer or a coconut water (sold on the corner for $3,000 COP). Don't leave trash, because the neighbors take care of this place as if it were their living room. And if you see a couple kissing, don't stare too much: it's the lovers' viewpoint, and love is respected here.
The best time to arrive is between 10pm and 11pm, when the trova has ended and the neighborhood begins to quiet down. The breeze is cooler, the sky is clearer, and the city noise is reduced to a minimum.
Finale: The Street Fried Food Stand That Only Comes Out After 10pm
And just when you think the night can't get any better, "la Gorda's" fried food stand appears. It has no name, no fixed location, but those who know it know it appears after 10pm on the corner of Carrera 2 and Calle 39, right next to the neighborhood store "El Tostón." It's a metal cart with a giant deep fryer, a red umbrella, and a line of people waiting patiently.
La Gorda (whose real name is Carmen, but nobody calls her that) fries everything you can imagine: arepas de huevo (yes, again, but these are different), meat and chicken empanadas, patacones with hogao, and her signature dish: "pico e' gallo frito", which is basically a small patacón stuffed with shredded beef, costeño cheese, and a spicy sauce she makes herself with sweet chili and tomato. All for $5,000 COP.
La Gorda only comes out Thursday to Sunday, from 10pm to 2am, or until the food runs out. She doesn't accept cards, doesn't have WhatsApp, doesn't deliver. It's the most authentic fried food in El Cabrero, and if you don't try it, you'll leave with an unpaid debt to the city.
Warning: La Gorda's spicy sauce is not for everyone. Ask before you add too much, because once a German tourist asked for "a lot of sauce" and ended up crying on the corner. La Gorda still laughs when she remembers it.
How to Get There and Transportation
El Cabrero is located between the Historic Center and Bocagrande, so getting there is easy:
- On foot from the Historic Center: It's a 15-20 minute walk from the Torre del Reloj. Just cross the Puente Heredia (the avenue bridge) and continue straight to the church. It's safe, but walk along the main streets.
- By bus: Take any bus that says "Bocagrande" or "El Cabrero" from the main avenue in the Center. The fare is $2,500 COP (reference price for May 2026). Get off at the Iglesia de El Cabrero stop.
- By taxi or Uber: From anywhere in Cartagena, the trip costs between $8,000 and $15,000 COP. Ask to be taken to "la Iglesia de El Cabrero" or "Parque de El Cabrero."
- By private car: There is parking on the streets around the church, but be careful with no-parking times (there are marked zones). Better to leave the car in a private parking lot if you come by car.
Safety: El Cabrero is safe at night, but as in any popular neighborhood, don't let your guard down. Don't walk alone down dark alleys, don't take out your phone on the street, and if you take a taxi, make sure it's an official one or from an app. The neighbors look after the neighborhood, but drunk tourists are easy targets.
Local Tips
- Arrive early for Don Eduardo's arepa. The dough runs out fast, and if you arrive after 9pm, you'll probably miss out.
- Bring cash. Almost no street stalls accept cards. The nearest ATMs are in the Historic Center or Bocagrande.
- Dress cool but not in flip-flops. The night breeze can be cool, but the day's heat is still felt. A cotton t-shirt and shorts are perfect. Flip-flops are fine for the street, but if you go into El Rincón del Trovador, better wear sneakers or closed shoes (the floor is sometimes wet).
- Don't take photos without asking. The neighbors of El Cabrero are friendly, but they don't like having their photos taken as if they were part of a zoo. Ask permission, smile, and they might even buy you a beer.
- If you want live trova, check beforehand. Schedules can change. The best thing is to ask at the "El Tostón" store or at the church. Or better yet: join the WhatsApp group 'Noches de El Cabrero' (limited capacity, only for those who truly want to live the experience).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk around El Cabrero at night?
Yes, as long as you take basic precautions. El Cabrero is a residential and family neighborhood, but as in any area of Cartagena, avoid dark alleys and don't display valuables. The main streets (Carrera 1, Carrera 2, Calle de la Media Luna) are well-lit and have activity until 1am. If you come in a group, even better.
Are there vegetarian or vegan options on the route?
Honestly, the El Cabrero route is carnivorous by nature: arepas de huevo, meat empanadas, patacones with cheese. But if you're vegetarian, you can ask at la Gorda's fried food stand for a patacón without meat (she prepares it with hogao and cheese). There are also fruit and natural juice stalls on the church corner. Don't expect an elaborate vegan menu, but something can be put together.
Can I bring children to the trova?
It depends. El Rincón del Trovador is not a bar for small children, but it's not a dive bar either. The troubadours sometimes improvise verses with risqué language (especially when talking about politics or relationships). If your children are teenagers and understand local humor, it can be a unique cultural experience. For small children, it's better to stick with Don Eduardo's arepa and the boardwalk.
How much money should I bring for the whole night?
With $30,000 COP (about 7-8 USD) you can eat an arepa de huevo, have two beers at the trova, buy a coconut water on the boardwalk, and finish with a pico e' gallo frito from la Gorda. If you want to eat more or drink more, budget $50,000 COP. It's one of the cheapest nights you can have in Cartagena.
Is there a better day of the week to go?
Thursday, Friday, and Saturday are the days with live trova at El Rincón del Trovador. If you go on a Tuesday or Wednesday, you'll still find fried food and neighborhood atmosphere, but the trova is the soul of the night. Arriving on a Thursday at 7pm gives you time for the arepa, the trova, the viewpoint, and the fried food without rushing.
What to Do
Enjoy Fried Food at Plaza de la Trinidad
Fried food is a culinary icon of the region. At Plaza de la Trinidad, you'll find various stalls offering a delicious variety of fritters like chicharrón, arepas de huevo, and patacón. Insider Tip: Don't forget to accompany your dish with a good corozo juice, which is perfect for counteracting the saltiness and greasiness of the fried foods. Additionally, on weekends there are often live performances that give the square a special atmosphere.
Explore Art and Culture in the Getsemaní Neighborhood
Getsemaní is a vibrant neighborhood that combines history and urban art. The streets are full of colorful murals and bohemian cafes. Insider Tip: Take a night tour to enjoy live music at some of the bars. On Wednesdays and Fridays, there are usually live music cycles at places like Café Havana, where you can enjoy a mojito while listening to good salsa.
Visit Castillo de San Felipe at Sunset
Although many visit it during the day, the sunset at Castillo de San Felipe is a magical experience. The panoramic view of Cartagena as the sun sets is unmatched. Insider Tip: Buy your ticket in advance online to avoid long lines and make sure to arrive at least 30 minutes before closing to enjoy the scenery and take some impressive photos.
Where to Eat or Drink
La Cevichería
Famous for its fresh ceviche and relaxed atmosphere. Here you can enjoy a variety of ceviches, from the classic shrimp to more innovative options. Make sure to order the version with mango, which offers a perfect balance between salty and sweet.
Insider Tip: Go early to ensure fresh ceviche is available, as it sells out quickly. You can also try their seafood cocktail, which is a true local delicacy.
El Barón
A place that combines the traditional with the modern, offering a creative cocktail menu and dishes that reinterpret Caribbean cuisine. Its atmosphere is ideal for enjoying good conversation while trying their tapas.
Insider Tip: Don't miss their "House Beer," which changes periodically. Ask the bartender about the story behind each cocktail, as many have an interesting background related to local culture.
La Mulata
A restaurant that stands out for its focus on local ingredients and typical dishes. La Mulata offers an authentic Caribbean experience, with dishes like ajiaco and arroz con coco. The atmosphere is cozy and decorated with local art.
Insider Tip: Try the daily menu, which offers excellent value for money and allows you to taste different flavors of the region. Also, it's a good time to interact with the locals who frequent the place.