El Cabrero after 10 pm: night guide
If you're reading this, you've probably had enough of the noise from the clubs in Getsemaní, the street vendors insisting on the same things, and the inflated prices for tourists. I get it. That's why I want to tell you about El Cabrero, the neighborhood we Cartageneros keep as a secret for nights when we don't want glitz, but rather neighborhood life with a flavor of sea salt and freshly fried empanada.
El Cabrero is not a party destination. There are no bars with neon lights or DJs playing reggaeton until 5 am. What it has is something else: a night that begins when tourists are already drunk on the terraces of the Historic Center. Here, the action starts after 10 pm and ends around 2 am, when the night air becomes thick and the neighbors pick up the chairs from the sidewalk.
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I've lived in Cartagena since I was born and have walked every street of this neighborhood at all hours. I'm going to tell you what a real night in El Cabrero is like, without filters or pretenses. If what you're looking for is to feel the city like a local does, this is your plan.
Historical or contextual introduction
El Cabrero is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Cartagena, founded at the beginning of the 20th century as a working-class residential area. Its name comes from an old path used by goatherds who brought livestock from the outskirts to the Getsemaní market. Today, its narrow streets and single-story houses with faded colored facades preserve that old neighborhood feel, where everyone knows each other and gossip spreads faster than the wind.
Geographically, El Cabrero is right by the sea, just north of the Historic Center, separated by Avenida Santander. While Getsemaní filled up with hostels and bars for backpackers, El Cabrero remained true to its essence: entire families who have lived there for generations, neighborhood stores selling everything from arepas to cold beer, and a nightlife that doesn't show up on Google Maps.
What makes El Cabrero special at night is not the places, but the people. The empanada seller who arrives at 10:15 pm with his styrofoam basket and his characteristic shout. The group of men who sit down to play dominoes under the streetlamp on the corner of Calle del Pozo and Carrera 4. The impromptu karaoke at Doña Lola's store, where neighbors sing songs by Sonora Dinamita or Silvestre Dangond while drinking aguardiente from a shared bottle.
In May 2026, the neighborhood is still as authentic as it was twenty years ago. The gentrification that transformed other areas of the city hasn't reached it, and that's exactly what makes it valuable. But be careful: it's not a dangerous neighborhood, but it's not a tourist bubble either. You have to go with respect, an open mind, and a willingness to go with the neighborhood's rhythm.
What to do
The night in El Cabrero doesn't have a fixed agenda. There are no event schedules or reservations to make. The plan is to go out on the street and see what appears. But if you want to know where to start, here's what never fails.
Street domino under the lantern
On the corner of Calle del Pozo and Carrera 4, right under the only streetlamp that lights up that block well, a group of men over 50 gathers every night. They bring a white plastic folding table, worn-out domino tiles, and a thermos of strong black coffee. They play from 7 pm until they run out of tiles or the grandchild accompanying them falls asleep.
If you approach respectfully, they'll accept you. Don't expect them to invite you to play right away — they've been playing together for years and the games are serious business — but you can stay and watch, ask how the score is going, and listen to the arguments about whether so-and-so cheated or not. Sometimes someone offers you a coffee from the thermos. Accept it. It's pot coffee, sweet and strong, like life itself.
Domino here is not just a game. It's a social ritual. They talk about local politics, market prices, neighborhood problems. If you stay long enough, you'll hear stories that no tour guide will ever tell you.
Karaoke at Doña Lola's store
Doña Lola has a store on Calle del Arsenal, half a block from Avenida Santander. By day she sells beer, sodas, Bimbo bread, and eggs. At night, from 10 pm to 1 am, her store becomes the most authentic karaoke in Cartagena.
There's no professional microphone or giant screen. Doña Lola connects an old Bluetooth speaker to her cell phone, plays YouTube videos with song lyrics, and people sing at the top of their lungs while drinking beer from plastic cups. The repertoire is varied: from classic salsa by Héctor Lavoe to vallenatos by Diomedes Díaz, including 80s ballads like "Me gustas" by Luis Miguel.
Don't expect a selective audience. Here, the lady who sells arepas on the corner sings, the young man who works at the hardware store, the taxi driver who finished his shift. If you dare to sing, they'll applaud you like you're a famous artist, even if you're off-key. That's the magic of the place: no judgment, only celebration.
Doña Lola charges 3,000 COP for each Águila Light or Poker beer. There's no cover charge, no waiting list, none of that. You arrive, order your beer, and sing when it's your turn. Simple.
The empanada seller on the corner
Between 10:15 pm and 11:30 pm, a man everyone calls "el Gordo" appears on the corner of Calle del Pozo and Carrera 3. He carries a white styrofoam basket wrapped in a cloth, and inside he brings beef, chicken, and cheese empanadas, freshly fried in homemade oil.
El Gordo doesn't have a fixed spot. He walks slowly, whistles a song no one recognizes, and when he reaches the corner where the domino players are, he sits on the sidewalk and opens the basket. He stays there until he runs out of empanadas, which is usually before midnight.
The empanadas cost 2,000 COP each. They are small, crispy, filled with shredded beef with potato and a touch of cumin. They are served with homemade hot sauce that El Gordo prepares himself: a mix of onion, tomato, cilantro, and spice that wakes up even the dead. If you can't handle the spice, ask for it without the sauce, but you'll miss out on the best part.
El Gordo doesn't talk much, but if you ask him how the night is going, he'll answer with a smile and a "tranquilo, my brother, as always." He's one of those characters that give a neighborhood its soul.
Night walk along the boardwalk
If you want to walk for a while, the El Cabrero boardwalk is the place. It's not the touristy boardwalk of Bocagrande, full of vendors and lights. Here it's darker, quieter. The sea breeze hits hard, the sound of the waves mixes with the music coming from the houses, and the smell of salt becomes part of you.
The boardwalk runs from Plaza de la Trinidad (on the border with Getsemaní) to Avenida Santander, passing by Parque de la Marina. At night, young couples sit on the wall to look at the stars, fishermen check their nets, and every now and then a stray dog passes by that already knows which houses give it food.
Walking here after 10 pm is a sensory experience. You hear the echo of a distant salsa, the clatter of domino tiles, El Gordo's shout offering empanadas. You see the lights of the ships in the bay, the reflection of the moon on the water, the silhouettes of neighbors sitting to enjoy the cool air at their doorsteps.
It's a simple, cheap, and deeply Cartagenero plan. You don't need anything more than a desire to walk and go with the flow.
Where to eat or drink
In El Cabrero, there are no restaurants with tablecloths or wine lists. Food and drink are found at neighborhood stores, street stalls, and houses that open their doors to sell what they cooked that day. Here are the key spots.
Doña Lola's store
Location: Calle del Arsenal, half a block from Avenida Santander.
What to order: Águila Light or Poker beer at 3,000 COP. She also sells Antioqueño aguardiente at 2,000 COP per shot, and Postobón sodas if you don't drink alcohol.
Hours: Open from 8 am to 2 am, but karaoke starts after 10 pm.
Useful tip: There is no public restroom. Ask Doña Lola if she'll let you use the one in her house, which is in the back. She almost always says yes if you are respectful.
El Gordo's empanadas
Location: Corner of Calle del Pozo and Carrera 3. Appears between 10:15 pm and 11:30 pm.
What to order: Beef, chicken, or cheese empanadas, at 2,000 COP each. The homemade hot sauce is free.
Useful tip: El Gordo isn't always there. If you don't see him, ask at Doña Lola's store if he's already been by. Sometimes he's late because the line at his house for frying is long.
Señora Marta's arepa stand
Location: Calle del Pozo with Carrera 5, in front of the El Cabrero church.
What to order: Arepa de huevo with shredded beef and suero costeño, at 4,000 COP. She also makes chicharrón and cheese arepas.
Hours: From 8 pm to 1 am, Thursday to Sunday.
Useful tip: Señora Marta is famous in the neighborhood for her suero costeño, which she makes herself using her grandmother's recipe. If you like costeño cheese, ask her to put some on top.
Don Pedro's cooler
Location: Carrera 4 with Calle del Arsenal, at his doorstep.
What to order: Cold beer at 2,500 COP, and sometimes he sells aguardiente or rum if you let him know in advance.
Hours: From 9 pm to 12 am, every day.
Useful tip: Don Pedro doesn't have a sign. Just a white cooler at his doorstep, with a handwritten sign that says "Cerveza." If you see several people sitting on the sidewalk with a beer in hand, that's the place.
How to get there and transportation
Getting to El Cabrero from any point in Cartagena is easy. The neighborhood is a 10-minute walk from the Historic Center and 15 minutes from Getsemaní. If you're coming from Bocagrande or Castillogrande, you can take a taxi or a bus.
On foot
If you're in the Historic Center, walk north on Calle del Sargento (the one that leaves Plaza de la Aduana) until you reach Avenida Santander. Cross the avenue and you're in El Cabrero. It's about 10 minutes. If you're coming from Getsemaní, exit through Plaza de la Trinidad and walk towards the sea. In 5 minutes you'll reach the El Cabrero boardwalk.
By taxi or Uber
From the Historic Center, a taxi will charge you between 7,000 and 10,000 COP depending on the time. From Bocagrande, about 12,000 COP. Uber is usually a bit cheaper, but sometimes drivers cancel if they see the destination is a neighborhood they don't know. If that happens, hail a taxi on the street or use the Tappsi app, which is the most used one here.
Important: when you tell the taxi driver to take you to El Cabrero, specify "El Cabrero, by Calle del Pozo" or "by the El Cabrero church." If you just say "El Cabrero," some taxi drivers will drop you off on Avenida Santander, which is the entrance, but not the heart of the neighborhood.
By bus
The bus route that passes through El Cabrero is "Ternera - Centro" or "Manga - Centro." The buses run along Avenida Santander, right on the edge of the neighborhood. The fare is 2,300 COP. Get off at the El Cabrero church stop. Buses run until about 10 pm, so if you arrive after that time, it's better to take a taxi or walk.
Local tips
Here are tips that only a Cartagenero can give you. Take them seriously if you want your night in El Cabrero to be authentic and safe.
- Arrive after 10 pm, but before 11 pm. The action starts late, but by 2 am everything shuts down. If you arrive at 11:30 pm, you'll still catch the dominoes, karaoke, and El Gordo's empanadas.
- Bring cash. In El Cabrero, they don't accept credit cards or Nequi everywhere. Stores and street stalls only take bills and coins. Withdraw money from an ATM before you arrive; the closest one is on Avenida Santander, in the City Hall building.
- Dress casual, but not sloppy. Shorts, t-shirt, and flip-flops are the neighborhood uniform. Don't wear flashy clothes or expensive jewelry. People here are honest, but as in any neighborhood, it doesn't hurt to be discreet.
- Greet people. In El Cabrero, people are friendly if you are first. A "good evening" as you pass by, a smile, a "how's the night going?" opens doors. If you stay quiet and look grumpy, they'll treat you with distrust.
- Don't take out your cell phone constantly. It's not that they'll steal it, but here people value face-to-face conversation more than the phone. Put your phone away, look people in the eye, listen. That's the key to connecting with the neighborhood.
- Ask before taking photos. Especially of the domino players and Doña Lola. They don't like having their picture taken without permission. If you ask, they almost always say yes, and even pose for the photo.
- Don't expect public restrooms. The stores don't have restrooms for customers. If you need to use the bathroom, politely ask at a house. The people in the neighborhood are helpful, but don't abuse the trust.
- If you're invited to sing at karaoke, do it. Even if you sing badly, people will applaud. It's part of the experience. If you refuse, nothing happens, but you miss out on a unique moment.
Frequently asked questions
Is El Cabrero safe at night?
Yes, generally it is safe, but with caution. The neighborhood is quiet and people know each other. There are no organized gangs or serious security problems. That said, as in any area of Cartagena, don't walk alone on dark, deserted streets after 2 am. Stay in areas where there is activity: Calle del Pozo, Calle del Arsenal, and the boardwalk. If you feel uncomfortable, walk towards Avenida Santander, which always has more light and traffic.
Can I go alone or is it better in a group?
You can go alone without any problem. In fact, many people go alone to Doña Lola's karaoke or to watch the dominoes. The locals are friendly and if you show genuine interest, they'll include you in the conversation. If you're a foreigner and don't speak much Spanish, don't worry: gestures and smiles are enough. Going in a group is also fine, but don't arrive with a "tourist coming to see the natives" attitude. Respect people's space and don't make a scene.
What time does the action end in El Cabrero?
Everything shuts down between 1 am and 2 am. Doña Lola's karaoke closes at 1 am, the domino players pack up their tiles around 12:30 am, and El Gordo leaves when he runs out of empanadas, which is usually before midnight. After 2 am, the neighborhood falls silent. If you want to continue the party, you'll have to go to Getsemaní or the Historic Center, but I recommend you go to sleep and enjoy the next day calmly.
Is there any place to buy food after 1 am?
Very few. Señora Marta closes at 1 am, and El Gordo is already gone. If you get hungry after that time, your best option is to walk to Avenida Santander, where there are a couple of hot dog and hamburger stands that are open until 3 am. Look for the stand in front of the El Cabrero church, which has a white light and a sign that says "Perros y hamburguesas." It's not gourmet, but it will save you from a craving.
How can I find out what's happening tonight in El Cabrero?
The best way is to join our WhatsApp group, where we share in real time what's happening