The Historic Buildings of Castillogrande: An Architectural Guide

Introduction: When Cartagena Looked to the Sea

If you walk through Castillogrande today, among glass towers and luxury apartments, it's hard to imagine that this neighborhood didn't exist just seventy years ago. Where clean-lined buildings and white facades now stand, there was once only mangrove swamp, water, and the occasional fisherman's shack. The story of Castillogrande is the story of a bet: that of a city that decided to grow towards the sea, break through its colonial walls, and build a modern future.

Between 1950 and 1970, Cartagena experienced an unprecedented urban boom. Tourism was taking off, the upper and middle classes were seeking new horizons, and a group of architects—many trained in European and North American universities—arrived with fresh ideas. They brought rationalism, tropical brutalism, and Caribbean modernism. And they found in Castillogrande the perfect canvas: a flat peninsula facing the bay, with constant breezes and sea views.

Today, walking through Castillogrande is like strolling through an open-air museum of 20th-century architecture. But not a cold museum: here people live, the buildings breathe, the facades tell stories of parties, families, and a city that dreamed big. In this guide, I'll take you through the buildings that defined the neighborhood, tell you who built them, why they're important, and how to recognize them. And if you're up for it, I'll share a one-hour walking route at the end so you can see them all.

What to Do: A Walking Architectural Tour of Castillogrande

The best thing about Castillogrande is that it can be explored on foot. The neighborhood is flat, the streets are wide, and the sea breeze accompanies you the whole way. The route I propose starts on Avenida San Martín, the main avenue, and ends at the Club de Pesca, at the tip of the peninsula. It's about 3 kilometers total, which with stops for photos and explanations will take you between one and one and a half hours.

1. Edificio Playa (1956) – The Pioneer of Caribbean Modernism

Address: Avenida San Martín # 5-45
Architect: Manuel José Álvarez
Style: Caribbean modernism with rationalist influence

Edificio Playa is the grandfather of them all. It was one of the first apartment buildings in Castillogrande, and when it opened in 1956, people said it looked like a beached ship. Its white facade, continuous balconies, and floor-to-ceiling windows were unlike anything seen in Cartagena until then. Manuel José Álvarez, its architect, had studied at Columbia University and brought from New York the idea that a building should integrate with its surroundings. That's why Edificio Playa has those overhangs that protect from sun and rain, and concrete lattices that filter light without blocking the breeze.

Fun fact: In the 1960s, Edificio Playa was the scene of several high-society parties in Cartagena. It is said that Gabriel García Márquez, who lived for a time in Cartagena, attended one of them and later wrote a story inspired by the view from the terrace.

2. Edificio Bahía (1960) – The Giant of Glass and Concrete

Address: Avenida San Martín # 6-12
Architect: Germán Samper
Style: Tropical brutalism

If Edificio Playa is the grandfather, Edificio Bahía is the eccentric uncle. Designed by Germán Samper, one of the most important Colombian architects of the 20th century, this 14-story building was the tallest in Cartagena when it was built. Samper used exposed, unpainted concrete and combined it with large glass windows that reflect the sea. The result is an imposing mass that some love and others hate, but that no one can ignore.

The facade of Edificio Bahía is a perfect example of brutalism adapted to the tropics. Samper included deep eaves and concrete sunshades that prevent the sun from heating the interiors. Additionally, the building has an open ground floor with gardens and a fountain, which was an innovative public space in its time.

Historical anecdote: During the construction of Edificio Bahía, neighbors complained that it would block the sea view. Samper responded with a phrase that became famous: "The sea view belongs to no one, it belongs to everyone." Today, the building is an icon of the Castillogrande skyline.

3. Torre del Castillo (1965) – The Elegance of Exposed Brick

Address: Calle 2 # 3-40
Architect: Rafael Obregón
Style: Modernism with neocolonial influence

Torre del Castillo is the most photographed building in Castillogrande. Its exposed brick facade, with wrought iron balconies and arched windows, recalls the colonial houses of the Historic Center, but with a modern twist. Rafael Obregón, its architect, wanted to show that brick was not an old material, but a versatile and noble one. And he succeeded: Torre del Castillo is warm, elegant, and perfectly adapted to the climate.

The building has only 8 floors, but its "L"-shaped design gives it an imposing presence. The corner apartments have terraces on two sides, with views of the sea and the city. On the ground floor, there are commercial spaces that have changed over the years: a bakery, a craft store, a café. Very neighborhood-like.

Little-known fact: Torre del Castillo was the first building in Cartagena to have a rainwater collection system on the roof, used for watering the gardens. An ecological idea ahead of its time.

4. Edificio Caribe (1968) – The Mural That Tells a Story

Address: Avenida San Martín # 8-20
Architect: Fernando Martínez
Style: Modernism with integrated art

Edificio Caribe is neither the tallest nor the most famous, but it has something that makes it unique: a ceramic mural on the facade that spans three floors. The work, by Cartagena-born artist Enrique Grau, depicts a seascape with fish, boats, and mermaids. It is an example of the integration between architecture and art that characterized several buildings of the era.

The mural was made with hand-painted tiles brought from Spain. Grau worked on the design for six months, and then a team of artisans installed it piece by piece. Today, the mural is a bit worn by the sun and sea salt, but it remains a landmark for the neighbors. "It's like the neighborhood's lighthouse," says Doña María, who has lived in the building since 1970.

Recommendation: To see the mural well, cross the street and look at it from the park sidewalk. Morning light is best.

5. Conjunto Residencial San Martín (1972) – The Utopia of Open Space

Address: Calle 3 # 4-50
Architect: Rogelio Salmona
Style: Organic modernism

Rogelio Salmona is perhaps the most internationally recognized Colombian architect. His works in Bogotá—such as the Torres del Parque—are famous, but few know he also left his mark on Cartagena. Conjunto Residencial San Martín is a complex of four 12-story towers, connected by pedestrian bridges and surrounded by gardens, pools, and sports courts.

Salmona designed the complex with community life in mind. The apartments are spacious, with large windows facing the interior of the complex, not the street. There are shaded areas, concrete benches, and a pool that looks like a water mirror. The idea was for residents to meet, talk, and share. And it worked: to this day, the neighbors of San Martín all know each other and organize birthday parties, bingo nights, and novenas in the common areas.

Anecdote: Salmona visited the construction site several times. On one of those visits, he asked for a palm tree to be moved because it was "stealing the sea view." The workers moved it with a crane, and the palm tree is still there, right where he wanted it.

6. Edificio Miramar (1975) – The Last Romantic

Address: Avenida San Martín # 10-30
Architect: Guillermo Bermúdez
Style: Late modernism with art deco details

Edificio Miramar closes the cycle of modernist architecture in Castillogrande. Built in the mid-70s, when the style was already being replaced by more commercial constructions, Miramar is a mix of influences: it has the clean lines of rationalism, but also art deco details on the stair railings and lobby lamps.

Its facade is white-painted concrete with glass balconies that seem to float. On the rooftop, there is a terrace with panoramic views of the bay, which residents use for sunrise yoga. The building has only 6 floors, but its vertical design makes it appear taller.

Fun fact: In the lobby of Edificio Miramar, there is a plaque commemorating that writer Álvaro Cepeda Samudio lived there during the last years of his life. Cepeda, a friend of García Márquez, wrote part of his novel "La casa grande" in a fifth-floor apartment.

7. Club de Pesca (1958) – The Lookout Over the Bay

Address: Punta de Castillogrande
Architect: José María Obregón
Style: Organic modernism with Caribbean influence

Club de Pesca is not a residential building, but a social club and restaurant that occupies the tip of the peninsula. It was designed by José María Obregón (brother of Rafael, of Torre del Castillo fame) and opened in 1958. The building is low, single-story, with large windows opening onto a terrace over the sea. The roof is palm-thatched, but with a concrete structure, a mix of tradition and modernity.

Club de Pesca is famous for its sunsets. From its terrace, you can see the sun set behind the Castillo de San Felipe, with the sea in the background. For decades, it was the meeting place for the Cartagena elite, and it still maintains an air of exclusivity. But anyone can go for a drink or dinner, as long as they reserve in advance.

Recommendation: Go to Club de Pesca at 5 pm, order a coconut lemonade, and sit on the terrace to watch the sunset. It's a priceless experience, even if the lemonade costs 15,000 COP (reference price as of June 2026).

Where to Eat or Drink: Stops to Recharge

After walking and taking photos, you'll need a break. Castillogrande has good options for eating and drinking, from fast food stands to restaurants with sea views.

• La Perla del Mar – A coastal food restaurant on Avenida San Martín, half a block from Edificio Playa. Try the rice with coconut and fried fish. Dishes from 25,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 am to 9 pm.
• Café del Parque – On Calle 2, in front of Torre del Castillo. Specializing in Sierra Nevada coffee and homemade desserts. Ideal for a mid-morning break. A latte and a slice of carrot cake cost about 12,000 COP.
• Heladería El Faro – At the corner of Avenida San Martín and Calle 4. They sell artisanal ice cream made from tropical fruits: mango, soursop, lulo. A double cone costs 8,000 COP. Perfect for the heat.
• Bar La Terraza – On the top floor of Edificio Bahía. It's not easy to find (you need to ask for access at the reception), but it's worth it. It has a 360-degree view of the bay and the city. Cocktails cost between 20,000 and 35,000 COP. Open from 6 pm to 11 pm, by reservation only.

How to Get There and Transportation

Castillogrande is about a 15-minute drive from the Historic Center of Cartagena. There are several ways to get there:

• By taxi or Uber: From the Center, a taxi costs between 10,000 and 15,000 COP. An Uber might be slightly cheaper, depending on demand. Ask to be dropped off on Avenida San Martín, the neighborhood's main avenue.
• By bus: The city buses that pass through Castillogrande have the route "Ternera - Castillogrande." The fare is 2,800 COP (reference price as of June 2026). Get off at the Avenida San Martín and Calle 3 stop.
• Walking: If you like walking, you can get there from the Center in about 40 minutes. The walk is pleasant: you leave through the El Laguito neighborhood, pass the monument to the old shoes, and enter Castillogrande via Avenida San Martín.
• By bicycle: There are public bicycle stations at the entrance to the neighborhood. You can rent one for 3,000 COP per hour using the "BiciCartagena" app.

Local Tips

1. Bring a hat and sunscreen. The sun in Cartagena is unforgiving, and in Castillogrande there aren't many shadows on the sidewalks. Protect your skin and head.
2. The best time for the route is 8 am. The light is soft, it's not too hot, and the buildings look spectacular in the morning sun. Plus, there are fewer people, and you can take photos without cars or pedestrians in the frame.
3. Talk to the neighbors. Castillogrande residents are proud of their neighborhood. If you see someone sweeping the entrance of their building or sitting on a park bench, say hello and ask if they know anything about the history of the place. They'll tell you anecdotes that aren't in any guide.
4. Don't limit yourself to the buildings on this list. Castillogrande has many other architectural gems: low houses from the 1950s, small boutique hotels, and even a modernist chapel on Calle 5. Explore with curiosity.
5. Bring water. There are few places to buy drinks along the route. Bring a reusable bottle and fill it at the restaurants or cafes where you stop.
6. Respect privacy. Many of these buildings are private residences. Don't enter lobbies without permission, and don't take photos of residents without asking. Be a respectful visitor.

Before/After Comparison: How Castillogrande Has Changed

If you could travel back in time to 1960, Castillogrande would seem like a completely different place. Archive photos show a nearly deserted neighborhood: Avenida San Martín was a two-lane road without sidewalks, and the buildings stood solitary among vacant lots and mangroves. There were no shopping centers, no restaurants, no parks. Only sea, breeze, and fresh concrete.

Today, the neighborhood is densely built. The empty lots have been filled with apartment towers, hotels, and offices. Avenida San Martín has four lanes, wide sidewalks, and a bike path. The parks have playgrounds, benches, and exercise machines. And the sea, once visible from any point, is now partially hidden by the buildings.

But what hasn't changed is the spirit of the neighborhood. Castillogrande remains a middle and upper-class area, but without the arrogance of other sectors. Here people greet each other, children play in the street, and on weekends families go for walks along the boardwalk. The historic buildings, though aged, are still the heart of the neighborhood. And although new glass and steel constructions have arrived, the neighbors defend their old towers tooth and nail.

A point to ponder: In 2024, the Mayor's Office of Cartagena declared Castillogrande an "Area of Architectural and Urban Interest." This means that any modification to historic buildings must be approved by the Heritage Office. Good news for those of us who want these gems to be preserved.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I enter the buildings to see the lobbies and terraces?

It depends on the building. Some, like Edificio Playa and Edificio Bahía, have lobbies open to the public during the day. Others, like Torre del Castillo and Conjunto Residencial San Martín, are private and require authorization from the management. The best thing is to ask at the reception. If you are respectful and explain that you are interested in architecture, they will likely let you in. Terraces and rooftops are almost always for residents only, so don't insist.

How much does the architectural tour cost?