Historical or Contextual Introduction
Cartagena sells itself with its postcards of the Centro Histórico, the Castillo de San Felipe, and the illuminated walls. But if you limit yourself to that, you miss the real city. Tour guides take you by chiva or minibus to the same spots: the Torre del Reloj, Plaza de los Coches, the Convento de la Popa. All pretty, all quick, all packaged.
I lived in Cartagena for almost three years, and I tell you: the city is meant to be walked. And I don't mean the stroll along Avenida del Centenario with the sun beating down on your neck. I'm talking about routes that take you into the real neighborhoods, where the smell of fried food mixes with the noise of courtyards and the Caribbean breeze hits your face. These three walking routes don't appear on tour maps. I put them together from my own explorations, talking to locals, and getting lost on purpose. They are for travelers who want to spend little, sweat just enough, and take home a story that doesn't come in the brochure.
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June 2026 is a good time to do them: the heat is still intense (average 30°C), but the May rains have eased up, and low-season prices mean street food stalls are cheaper than ever. Bring water, sunscreen, and closed-toe shoes. Here are the routes.
Route 1: The Forgotten Murals — From San Diego to Backside Getsemaní
Most people know Getsemaní for the Plaza de la Trinidad and its murals on Calle San Juan de Dios. But there's a part of that neighborhood that guides avoid: the area behind the Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad, towards Avenida del Pedregal. This zone, which I call "Backside Getsemaní," has murals that no one restores and that tell the story of those who don't make it into the photos.
The route starts in the San Diego neighborhood, specifically at the corner of Calle del Curato, where there is a wall with a mural by local artist Mónica Londoño depicting an Afro-Colombian woman wearing a vueltiao hat. No one mentions it because it's half-covered by a transformer. From there, walk two blocks south along Calle de la Amargura until you reach Plaza de la Trinidad. But don't stop there. Continue straight along Calle de la Magdalena, which becomes narrow and full of bicycle repair shops and carpentry workshops.
When you reach Calle 29 (the one that crosses Avenida del Pedregal), turn left. Here you'll find the most impressive mural: a face of Benkos Biohó, the maroon leader, painted by the collective Rostros Urbanos in 2019. The paint is peeling, the sun has been fading it, and tourists don't pass by because it's a street with only recycling warehouses. It's worth it.
The full walk is about 2.5 kilometers, which takes 40 minutes if you don't stop, but I recommend pausing at each mural. Download the offline Google Maps map because the signal is weak here. The best time is 7:00 am, before the sun gets strong and the workshops start making noise.
- Starting point: Corner of Calle del Curato and Calle del Sargento Mayor, San Diego.
- Key stop: Benkos Biohó mural at Calle 29 with Carrera 10, Getsemaní.
- Total distance: 2.5 km.
- Estimated time: 1 hour with stops.
- Difficulty: Low. Flat streets, but some without shade.
Route 2: The Street Food Walk — From Bazurto Market to Plaza de la Trinidad
If there's one tour that shows you the stomach of Cartagena, it's this one. The Mercado de Bazurto is chaotic, dirty, noisy, and absolutely delicious. Guides don't take you because "it's not safe," but the reality is that at 8:00 am it's full of families shopping, and the real danger is getting lost among the fish stalls and the smells of ripe fruit.
The route starts at the market's main entrance on Avenida del Lago. Go in and look for Doña Elvia's stall, famous for its arepas de huevo with suero (they cost around $5,000 COP each, reference prices from June 2026). Then, walk to the back, where the natural juice vendors are. Order a jugo de corozo (a typical sour fruit from the region) served in a plastic bag, the way locals do.
Leave the market through the back exit, which leads to Calle 30. Here begins the walk towards Plaza de la Trinidad. It's not a direct route: you'll zigzag through streets like Calle de la Media Luna and Calle del Pozo, where there are fried food stalls (empanadas, carimañolas, patacones) that open from 9:00 am. Try the shredded beef empanadas with suero at La Sazón de la Negra stall, on the corner of Calle 31 and Carrera 9. They cost $3,000 COP each.
The tour ends at Plaza de la Trinidad, where you can sit on the church steps and watch the sunset. But before that, make a stop at Tienda de la Esquina, on Calle de la Magdalena, to buy a panela water with lemon ($2,000 COP). The entire route is about 3 kilometers, but with food stops it can take 2 hours.
- Starting point: Main entrance of Mercado de Bazurto, Avenida del Lago.
- Key stop: La Sazón de la Negra stall, Calle 31 with Carrera 9.
- Total distance: 3 km.
- Estimated time: 2 hours (with food stops).
- Difficulty: Medium. Streets with light traffic, watch out for motorcycles.
Route 3: The Shady Wall Walk — From Torre del Reloj to Punta del Judío
Everyone walks the wall, but always on the sea side, under the direct sun. This route is different: it goes along the shady side, hugging the walls from the inside, and takes advantage of the trees and the arcades of colonial buildings to avoid getting fried. It starts at the Torre del Reloj and goes north, skirting the wall along Calle 1ª de Badillo.
The first stop is Plaza de la Aduana, where there is a giant rubber tree that shades half the square. Continue walking along Calle de la Factoría, which runs parallel to the wall, until you reach Plaza de San Diego. Here there is a café called Ábaco Libros y Café (Calle de la Factoría, near the square) where you can buy a coffee with milk for $6,000 COP and sit on the wooden chairs under the trees.
The route continues along Calle del Tejadillo, which has arcades almost its entire length. At the end, you reach Punta del Judío, a viewpoint less known than the one at Baluarte de Santo Domingo. From there you see the Caribbean Sea and the rooftops of the Centro. There are no street vendors, so bring your own water.
The trick to this route is that you avoid the sun between 10:00 am and 2:00 pm, when it's strongest. It's about 2 kilometers, which takes 30 minutes walking non-stop, but with stops for coffee and photos it takes 1 hour. Ideal to do after breakfast.
- Starting point: Torre del Reloj, Plaza de los Coches.
- Key stop: Ábaco Libros y Café, Calle de la Factoría, San Diego.
- Total distance: 2 km.
- Estimated time: 1 hour.
- Difficulty: Low. Shade almost the entire way.
Safety and Logistics Tips
Walking Cartagena is safe if you know where you're stepping. Here are practical tips I learned the hard way:
- Footwear: Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes. Flip-flops are for the beach, not for the cobblestone streets of the Centro, which have loose stones and potholes. In Bazurto, the floor can be wet and slippery.
- Hydration: Bring at least one liter of water per person. On routes 1 and 3, there are shops every two blocks, but on route 2 (Bazurto) you can buy coconut water at the market for $3,000 COP.
- Offline maps: Download Google Maps offline before you leave. Routes 1 and 2 have areas with weak signal. Maps.me also works and is lighter.
- Timing: Routes 1 and 3 are safe until 6:00 pm. Route 2 (Bazurto) should only be done in the morning, from 7:00 am to 11:00 am, because after that the market fills with informal vendors and pedestrian flow gets complicated.
- Cash: Street food stalls don't accept cards. Bring bills of $2,000, $5,000, and $10,000 COP. Avoid $50,000 bills because they sometimes don't have change.
- Sunscreen and hat: Although route 3 has shade, the other two have sections in the sun. Use SPF 50+ sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat. The sun in Cartagena burns until 4:00 pm.
- Communication: If you get lost, ask shopkeepers or police officers in the tourist area. Locals are friendly and will guide you without issue.
Downloadable Map with Exact Points for Each Route and Estimated Times
So you don't have to improvise, I put together an interactive map with the three routes marked, food spots, and murals. It includes exact coordinates and reference photos. You can download it as a PDF or open it in Google Maps on your phone. The map includes:
- Route 1: 8 mural points with artist names and creation dates.
- Route 2: 6 food stops with approximate prices and opening hours.
- Route 3: 4 rest stations with shade and benches.
- Estimated times: Calculated for a slow walk with stops.
Download it from the button below (it's a direct link to a file hosted on the Malokal server). If you have trouble with the download, write to us through our contact on the website and we'll send it to you by email.
CTA: Download the interactive map with the 3 routes and stop recommendations for your mobile. Click here to get it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk through Bazurto Market?
Yes, as long as you go in the morning (between 7:00 am and 11:00 am) and don't carry valuables in plain sight. The market is noisy and messy, but thefts are uncommon if you move with confidence. Avoid bringing large cameras or holding your phone in your hand. Keep your wallet in a front pocket or a fanny pack.
How long does it take to do all three routes in one day?
If you do them back-to-back, including walks and food stops, it takes about 4 hours. But I recommend splitting them over two days: routes 1 and 3 on the morning of the first day, and route 2 the next day, early. That way you don't get tired and enjoy each stop. Plus, the afternoon heat can make the experience heavy.
Do I need a guide for these routes, or can I do them alone?
You can do them alone if you have the map downloaded and follow the instructions. You don't need a guide because the streets are easy to navigate. However, if you want more historical context, you can hire a local guide from the area (ask around Plaza de la Trinidad, they cost about $30,000 COP per person for an hour). But the charm of these routes is going at your own pace and discovering things on your own.
Things to Do
La Boquilla
This fishing neighborhood is perfect for experiencing local life. Here you can enjoy the beach without the crowds of the center and try delicious fried fish at one of the area's restaurants. Insider Tip: Visit La Boquilla at sunset to enjoy a natural spectacle as the fishermen return with their day's catch. Don't forget to try the patacón con suero, a typical dish that won't disappoint.
Getsemaní
Known for its bohemian atmosphere, Getsemaní is the ideal place to explore street art and local culture. The streets are full of colorful murals that tell stories of the city. Insider Tip: Join a "free walking tour" that starts at Plaza de la Trinidad. It's an excellent way to learn about the history of the place from a local's perspective. Also, try a jugo de corozo from one of the street vendors to refresh yourself as you walk.
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Where to Eat or Drink
La Cevichería
This place is famous for its fresh and varied ceviche. Here, you can try shrimp ceviche and fish tiradito. The atmosphere is relaxed, ideal for enjoying good conversation accompanied by a cocktail. Insider Tip: Go early, as it fills up quickly on weekends and it's hard to find a table. Don't forget to order their famous mojito cocktail, a classic that never disappoints.
El Boliche Cebichería
A more modern spot where the fusion of Caribbean flavors is evident. In addition to ceviche, they offer innovative dishes that combine local ingredients. Insider Tip: Ask about the daily specials, as there are always fresh surprises. Its bohemian atmosphere makes it a perfect place for a great evening.
La Casa de la Cerveza
This bar is ideal for those looking to enjoy local craft beers. The beer selection is wide and the atmosphere is lively. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the mango beer, a delight you can only find here. Also, take advantage of the happy hour promotions they usually have in the afternoons.
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