El Peñón: Secrets of Its 20th-Century Mansions

El Peñón: a walk through its 20th-century mansions

If you have ever walked through the tree-lined streets of El Peñón, you know it is not just any neighborhood. Here, time shows on the facades. While Cali's historic center has its colonial charm, El Peñón is the testament to when the city looked forward, at the beginning of the 20th century, and dressed itself in mansions that today tell stories of sugar, politics, and coffee. It is not an open-air museum, but almost. And the best part: you can explore it without spending a peso.

This neighborhood was born as the bet of the wealthiest families of Cali between 1920 and 1950. There are no skyscrapers here, but two or three-story houses that mix styles ranging from neoclassical to art deco, passing through an eclecticism that can only be explained by the taste of their original owners. Today, many of these mansions are headquarters for companies, restaurants, or galleries, but others remain private residences. The secret lies in knowing how to look.

In this guide, I will take you through the key streets, tell you details of five mansions you cannot miss, and give you tips so your visit is more than just a walk. And yes, at the end, I will ask you to tell me which one you liked best. But let's go step by step.

May 2026 is a good time for this walk: the weather is dry, the jacarandas still have flowers, and the sun is not as intense as in July.

Origin of the neighborhood: when Cali became elegant

Before El Peñón was the neighborhood of mansions, these slopes were pastures and sugarcane farms. At the beginning of the 20th century, Cali began to grow westward, away from the colonial center. The local elite, who had made money from the coffee and sugar trade, sought land with a view. And what better view than that of the Cali River and the mountains.

The neighborhood was formally urbanized in the 1920s and 1930s. The most notable families —the Caicedos, the Borreros, the Holguíns— commissioned houses from local and foreign architects. The result was a laboratory of styles: French neoclassical, art deco, neocolonial, and even touches of art nouveau. Each mansion was a declaration of power and good taste.

One of the keys to El Peñón is its layout. The streets are narrow, with curves that follow the topography. No two facades are alike. And the gardens, although many have been lost, still preserve fruit trees and palm trees that shade the sidewalk.

Fun fact: during World War II, several of these houses housed European families fleeing the conflict. This brought architectural influences not seen in other neighborhoods of Cali.

What to do: a tour of 5 emblematic mansions

I propose a walking route that starts on Avenida 9N and goes up Carrera 4 to Calle 15. It is about 20 blocks in total, but with stops to look at facades, take photos, and breathe in history. Bring water and comfortable shoes.

1. Casa de la familia Caicedo (Cra 4 #14-25)

This is one of the most photographed. Built in 1935, it is a perfect example of French neoclassical adapted to the tropics. It has Ionic columns at the entrance, a triangular pediment, and tall windows with wrought iron grilles. The original owners were owners of sugar mills. Today it is the headquarters of a cultural foundation, so sometimes you can enter the gardens. The facade is painted white and pale yellow, and the window frames are carved wood. If you look at it from the front, notice the detail of the moldings: each one was handmade by Italian artisans who lived in Cali during the 1930s. Do not leave without looking at the entrance lantern; it is original from the era.

2. Mansión Borrero (Av 9N #12-50)

This house is a monument to art deco. Built in 1940, it has straight lines, porthole-shaped windows, and a main wooden door with bronze inlays. It belonged to the Borrero family, one of the most influential in local politics. The interior preserves Italian marble floors and a spiral staircase that is a gem. Today it operates as a fine dining restaurant, so you can go in for lunch or a coffee. The garden in the back has a pool that is still used for events. It is not cheap, but it is worth it just to see the stained glass windows in the dining room.

3. Casa Holguín (Calle 15 #3-40)

This mansion is the most eclectic on the tour. It combines neocolonial elements (semicircular arches, clay tiles) with modernist details (floor-to-ceiling windows, geometric wrought iron). It was built in 1945 for the Holguín family, who had business in the port of Buenaventura. The most striking feature is the lookout tower on the corner, from which you can see the entire neighborhood. Today it is an art gallery, with temporary exhibitions that change every month. Admission is free, and they usually have works by contemporary Cali artists. Ask about the basement: there is a wine cellar dating from the 1950s.

4. Villa de los Caicedo (Cra 3 #13-20)

Do not confuse it with the first one. This is a smaller mansion, but with a detail that makes it unique: its facade is covered in hand-painted tiles, brought from Seville. The style is Andalusian, with an interior patio that has a ceramic fountain. It was built in 1938 for a younger son of the Caicedo family. Today it is a boutique clothing store for local designers. Entering is free, and you can see the patio from the store. The patio floor is made of river stone, just like in the old houses of Popayán.

5. Casa de los Borrero-Caicedo (Av 9N #13-10)

This is the most recent of the group, from 1955, and marks the transition towards modern architecture. It has simpler lines, but preserves classic elements like the dentil cornice and windows with wooden shutters. It was the last mansion built in El Peñón before the neighborhood began to densify. Today it is a private residence, so it can only be seen from the street. But it is worth it because it is on a corner that allows you to see it from two angles. The front garden has a giant ceiba tree that predates the house, planted in 1910.

Where to eat or drink

After walking, hunger strikes. In El Peñón, there are options for all budgets, but most are mid-to-high-end restaurants. Here are three recommendations:

• La Bodega de la 14 (Calle 14 #4-30): a restaurant that occupies an old house, with dishes from Cali cuisine like sancocho de gallina and empanadas de pipián. Dishes from $25,000 COP. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-9pm.
• Café del Peñón (Cra 4 #15-50): ideal for a break. They have regional coffee and homemade desserts like tres leches. A coffee with something sweet costs about $12,000 COP. Open every day, 8am-8pm.
• Mansión Borrero Restaurant (Av 9N #12-50): if you want to treat yourself, the executive menu here costs $55,000 COP. The food is Colombian fusion with international touches. Reserve in advance.

For drinks, on the same Calle 14 there are several cocktail bars that open from 6pm. Bar de la 14 (Calle 14 #3-50) is the most traditional, with live music on weekends. Local beers cost around $8,000 COP.

How to get there and transportation

Getting to El Peñón is easy from any point in Cali:

• By taxi or Uber: from downtown, it costs about $10,000 COP (10 minutes). From the south of the city (Unicentro area), it is $20,000 COP (20 minutes).
• By bus: take any bus that says "El Peñón" or "Av 9N" on the route. The nearest stop is on Avenida 9N with Calle 13. The fare is $2,800 COP (May 2026 rate).
• Walking: if you are in the historic center (Parque de los Poetas), it is a 15-minute walk uphill on Calle 14. It is a slope, but it goes quickly.
• By bicycle: there are public bicycle stations (MIO Bici) near Avenida 9N. The climb is demanding, but the descent is a reward.

The neighborhood is safe to walk during the day and until 9pm. After that, it is better to move by vehicle. The streets are well-lit, but some are lonely.

Local tips

• Look up: many mansions have details on the second floors that are not visible from the sidewalk. Look for wrought iron balconies, stucco moldings, and colored skylights.
• Bring your ID or passport: some galleries and restaurants ask for identification to enter private events.
• Visiting hours: the facades can be seen at any time, but if you want to enter a mansion converted into a business, the hours are 10am to 6pm Monday to Saturday. Many are closed on Sundays.
• Do not use flash: in galleries and shops, flash photos can damage artworks or antique furniture. Ask first.
• Combine with the Mirador de El Peñón: at the end of Calle 15, going up some stairs, there is a public viewpoint with a view of the city. It is free and perfect for sunset photos.
• Avoid the hours of strong sun (12pm-3pm): the streets have little shade and the heat can be intense. Better to go out early or after 4pm.

Current state: what is preserved and what has changed

El Peñón is not the same as it was in 1950. Many mansions have become offices, restaurants, or apartments. Others are abandoned, with neglected facades and dry gardens. But there is good news: since 2020, the Cali Mayor's Office has declared several areas of the neighborhood as architectural heritage, which limits demolitions. Additionally, neighborhood groups have organized guided tours to show the best-preserved houses.

What has changed the most is traffic. Avenida 9N, which was once a quiet residential street, is now a main road with buses and cars. The noise seeps into the houses. But the side streets (Carrera 3 and 4) maintain the tranquility of before. Modern apartment buildings have also appeared, but they are on the edges of the neighborhood, without touching the historic core.

A curious fact: in 2025, a fire affected one of the houses on Carrera 4 (number 4-18), but it was restored with private funds. Today it is an example of how heritage can be recovered without losing its essence.

Frequently asked questions

Can you enter all the mansions?

No. Most are private properties or residences. You can only enter those that function as restaurants, galleries, or shops. The others are seen from the street. Respect the "private property" signs and do not try to jump fences.

What is the best time to take photos?

Morning light (between 7am and 9am) illuminates the facades on Avenida 9N head-on. At sunset (4pm-6pm), the side streets have a golden light that highlights the details of the moldings. Avoid noon because the shadows are very harsh.

Are guided tours available?

Yes. The Fundación Arquitectura Caleña organizes free walks on the first Saturday of each month. They leave at 10am from the corner of Avenida 9N with Calle 14. No registration is required, just arrive on time. There are also private guides who charge about $30,000 COP per person, but it is recommended to check availability before visiting.

Is the neighborhood safe for tourists?

Generally, yes. It is a residential area with private security on several streets. As anywhere in Cali, do not leave valuables visible in the car and avoid walking alone after 10pm. During the day, it is safe even for solo travelers.

What else is near El Peñón?

A few blocks away are Parque de los Poetas, Cerro de las Tres Cruces (ideal for hiking), and the San Antonio neighborhood, which has more old houses and viewpoints. You can also go down to the Cali River, which runs along the side of the neighborhood, with a pedestrian path.

Now it is your turn. Which of these five mansions did you like best? Leave your answer in the comments with an emoji (😍, 🤩, 🏛️ or whichever you want). If you visit El Peñón after reading this, tell me if you found any detail I might have missed. This neighborhood has layers and layers of history, and there is always something new to discover.

Historical or contextual introduction

El Peñón, a neighborhood that flourished during the first half of the 20th century, is a reflection of Cali's urban evolution. Originally conceived as a residential sector for the Cali elite, its mansions are witnesses to the city's economic and cultural boom at that time. Imposing constructions with architectural styles ranging from neoclassical to art deco, each house tells a story intertwined with the historical events of Colombia. As you walk through its streets, you can feel the echo of a golden age, where every corner and every facade has something to tell.

Today, the neighborhood is not only a place of residence but also a cultural meeting point. The old houses have been transformed into cafes, galleries, and cultural spaces, keeping the essence of their origins alive. If you are interested in history and architecture, El Peñón is a place where the old and the modern coexist in harmony, offering a unique experience in Cali.

• Mansión de la familia Pizarro

  Insider Tip: Do not forget to ask about the ghost stories surrounding this mansion. The former inhabitants still seem to be present in local tales.