Mamatoco: the neighborhood that painted itself to avoid being erased
If you are tired of the postcards of El Rodadero and the historic center full of tourists, Mamatoco awaits you with open eyes. This neighborhood, just 15 minutes by bus from downtown Santa Marta, is a giant canvas where each mural tells a story of struggle, of land, of memory. Here there are no selfies with the sea in the background: there are faces of murdered leaders, raised hands, and colors that defy concrete. In May 2026, the murals of Mamatoco remain the most honest way to understand how an entire neighborhood decided to paint its own history to avoid being erased.
Mamatoco was not always an art neighborhood. It was born as an indigenous and Afro-descendant settlement, with families who had been farming and fishing for generations. But since the 1970s, the growth of Santa Marta and the pressure from tourism and real estate projects began to encroach on the territory. The dispossession was not just of land: it was of identity. Faced with this, the community found a trench in the walls. Collectives like Mamatoco Creativo and local artists began painting in 2018, and since then the neighborhood has become an open-air gallery that asks for no entry fee, only respect.
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What to do: a walking tour of the murals that speak
The best thing about Mamatoco is that you don't need a guide or an official map (although we leave one for download at the end). Just walk. The neighborhood is safe during the day, the people are friendly, and the murals are on the facades of houses, on corners, in shops. Here I tell you about the five you can't miss, with their exact location and what they mean.
1. "The resistance of the ancestors" – Calle 16 with Carrera 5
This mural covers the entire facade of a corner house. Painted by the collective Mamatoco Creativo in 2019, it shows an Afro-descendant woman with a red turban, surrounded by plantain leaves and sugar cane. In the background, silhouettes of men and women with machetes are seen. The symbolism is direct: the land as mother, work as dignity. The woman has her eyes closed, but her mouth is open, as if she were singing or shouting. The neighbors say it is a tribute to the grandmothers who still cultivate in the backyards of the neighborhood.
2. "The cry of memory" – Carrera 4 between Calles 17 and 18
On a long white wall, local artist Jhon Jairo Martínez painted in 2021 a giant face of Jorge Eliécer Gaitán surrounded by doves. But it is not the Gaitán from the books: he has a hard look and a marked vein on his forehead. Below, a phrase in black letters: "The blood of those who fell is not forgotten." The mural is right next to the old house of the Community Action Board, where in the 80s community leaders who were later threatened used to meet. The reference to Gaitán is not accidental: the neighborhood experienced a massacre in 1997, when paramilitaries killed five people on a soccer field. The mural is a reminder that violence is not repeated if it is not forgotten.
3. "Mamatoco weaving" – Calle 18 with Carrera 6
This is the most colorful mural in the neighborhood. An elderly woman, with gray hair and wrinkled hands, weaves a hammock that becomes a river. Next to her, children play with kites. The work is by Luz Dary Castro, an artist from Santa Marta who worked with the weavers of the neighborhood for three months in 2022. The idea was to show that oral and manual tradition is an act of resistance: while they weave, they tell stories, and those stories are what keep the neighborhood alive. The mural is on the facade of a community hall where women gather every afternoon to weave and sell their products. If you go on a Saturday, you can sit with them and listen.
4. "The court of dignity" – Carrera 3 with Calle 19
On the wall facing the neighborhood's soccer field, a 30-meter-long mural shows a group of young people kicking a ball that is a sun. Behind them, colorful houses and mountains. The mural is called "The court of dignity" and was painted in 2023 by the collective Fútbol y Resistencia, which works with at-risk youth. The field was the site of the 1997 massacre, but today it is a space of life. The mural has a phrase at the bottom: "Here we play, here we resist." On weekends, the games are crowded and the atmosphere is festive.
5. "The river that is not for sale" – Calle 20, in front of the old slaughterhouse
This is the most political mural. It shows a blue and green river that twists like a serpent, with fish and leaves. In the middle, a text: "Water is not for sale, it is defended." The mural was painted in 2020 by Colectivo Tierra Negra in response to plans to build a tourist complex that threatened to divert the stream that runs through the neighborhood. The community managed to stop the project, but the fight continues. The mural is on the facade of an abandoned house that the neighbors want to turn into a cultural center. It is a reminder that art is not just decoration: it is a tool of struggle.
Where to eat or drink: neighborhood flavors
After walking, hunger strikes. In Mamatoco there are no gourmet restaurants or trendy bars, but street food and neighborhood stores are an experience in themselves.
- La Esquina de la Arepa (Calle 17 with Carrera 5): arepas de huevo with hogao, stuffed with shredded beef or costeño cheese. An arepa costs around $5,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026). Open Monday to Saturday, 6am-2pm.
- Tienda Doña Cecilia (Carrera 4 #16-20): it's not a restaurant, it's a neighborhood store where Doña Cecilia sells natural juices of corozo, zapote, and níspero. A large glass costs $2,000 COP. She also has plastic chairs on the sidewalk where you can sit and watch life go by.
- Fried fish on Calle 19: on weekends, at noon, several ladies set up their stoves on Calle 19 with Carrera 3 and sell fried fish with patacón and salad. A plate costs $12,000 COP. Ask for Señora Carmen, she is the fastest.
- Panadería Mamatoco (Calle 18 #4-30): yuca bread, almojábanas, and freshly made pandebono. A pandebono costs $1,500 COP. Open every day from 5am to 8pm.
How to get there and transportation
Mamatoco is located south of Santa Marta, about 3 kilometers from the historic center. Getting there is easy and cheap.
- By city bus: Take any bus that says "Mamatoco" or "Aeropuerto" on the route. Buses pass by Carrera 1 and Calle 22 in downtown. The fare is $2,500 COP (2026). The trip takes 15-20 minutes.
- By mototaxi: From downtown, a mototaxi will charge you between $5,000 and $8,000 COP. Say "Mamatoco, frente a la cancha" to be dropped off in the heart of the neighborhood.
- By taxi: A taxi from El Rodadero costs about $20,000 COP. From the airport, about $15,000 COP.
- Walking: If you like walking, from Plaza de Bolívar it's 35 minutes. It's safe during the day, but better not to do it at night if you don't know the area.
Local tips
- Go early: The murals look best with the morning light (7am-10am). Also, the neighborhood is quieter and you can talk to the neighbors.
- Bring cash: In Mamatoco, almost no one accepts cards. The nearest ATMs are downtown.
- Respect the houses: Many murals are on the facades of private homes. Do not touch the walls or enter without permission. If you want a photo, ask permission with a smile.
- Talk to the people: The neighbors of Mamatoco are open and proud of their neighborhood. If you see someone sitting at the door, say hello and ask them about the mural on their house. They will tell you stories that are not in any guide.
- Don't use flash: Flash photos can damage the paint over time. Use natural light.
- Buy handicrafts: On Calle 18, several women sell hand-woven hammocks, backpacks, and necklaces. Buying from them supports the local economy.
- Watch out for dogs: There are several stray dogs, but they are calm. If you approach with food, they will follow you the whole tour.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to visit Mamatoco?
Yes, it is safe during the day. The neighborhood is residential and the community is organized. As in any place in Santa Marta, avoid carrying valuables in plain sight and do not walk alone after 7pm if you don't know the area well. On weekends there is more movement and it is quieter.
How long does the mural tour take?
If you do the full tour on foot, stopping to take photos and talk to people, plan for between 1.5 and 2 hours. If you want to see all the murals in the neighborhood (there are more than 30), you can take up to 3 hours. The good thing is that the neighborhood is small and everything is close by.
Are local guides available?
Yes, you can contact the collective Mamatoco Creativo through their Facebook page. They offer guided tours on Saturdays at 9am, with a cost of $15,000 COP per person. The guide is a young person from the neighborhood who tells you the story of each mural and shows you places that are not on the maps. It is recommended to book at least one day in advance.
Do the murals change or get renewed?
Yes, some murals are repainted every year or two, especially those on houses that are being remodeled. The Mamatoco Creativo collective organizes community painting sessions every December. If you visit during that time, you can see new murals being created. The oldest ones, like "The resistance of the ancestors," have remained intact since 2019.
Can I take photos for social media?
Of course, in fact the neighbors are happy that the neighborhood is known. Just ask for permission if you are going to take photos of people or their houses. Use the hashtag #MamatocoResiste when posting, so you help spread the story of the neighborhood. And if you want, download the free mural map at malokal.com/mapa-mamatoco so you don't miss any.
Historical or contextual introduction
Mamatoco is not just a neighborhood; it is a living testimony to the history and culture of Santa Marta. Its development has been marked by the resistance and creativity of its inhabitants, who have transformed the walls into canvases that tell their own stories. This neighborhood is a space where urban art becomes a means of expression and a call to social consciousness.
Originally founded as a popular settlement, Mamatoco has faced challenges over the years, from urbanization problems to neglect. However, the community has managed to reinvent itself, turning difficulties into opportunities to express its identity through murals that reflect struggles, hopes, and the daily life of its residents.
The murals of Mamatoco are more than just paintings; they are a visual account of the resistance of a people who, despite obstacles, remain standing. Each work is an invitation to learn the stories of its creators and to understand a little more about the reality of the community.
Visiting Mamatoco is an experience that goes beyond art. It is an encounter with the soul of Santa Marta, where every corner, every mural, and every person has a story to tell. Don't forget to bring your camera, but also your desire to talk and listen. The best way to enjoy this neighborhood is by interacting with its inhabitants, who will gladly share their stories and guide you along the path of resistance.